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the solution, of course, is 10,000 pounds of D batteries... LOL
Firstly, the reason a side mounted terminal might fail is because a bolt is threaded into the terminal. Because lead is too soft to tighten a bolt sufficiently, a plated steel insert which is threaded is cast into the lead during manufacture.
Because of high engine compartment temperatures and then cooling off cycles often in freezing weather, mechanical stress is exerted between the lead and steel insert. Eventually, the bond between the lead and steel is broken and an electrolyte leak takes place.
Sometimes the electrolyte wicks down the starter cable causing severe damage before it is discovered. On other occasions the acid has leaked onto the wiring harness below the battery tray and even onto brake lines.
What makes the situation worse is the fact that "no maintenance" batteries have an extra reserve of electrolyte which will hopefully last the lifetime of the battery. Because the side mount terminal is below the level of the acid, any leak can spill a lot of acid onto vital components.
A top mount terminal battery does not have any of these problems as a broken or loose terminal post will be above the electrolyte level.
Until full saftey can be assured I believe that auto manufactures should avoid side mount terminals on batteries.
I've rebuilt a few and restarting is rarely a snap. Give us more description and we'll stand a better chance of being able to help.
Any ideas? Is there an airbag reset as well? Have full power to lights, radio, horn, etc. Tried jump-starting as well.
a number of issues could exist. one is that the crankshaft was jammed a little when stuff (bumpers, radiator, telephone pole pieces, etc.) whacked the balance wheel bolted to the front of the crank. if the engine kept running a little while after the crash, it could have bent the crank further until it jammed. if you cracked the block in the crash, it could have spread under further operation, until you either jammed a piston or crank bearing, or lost your oil and seized the engine.
there could just be damaged sensors/coils/boltons in front that finally petered out. fun to find 'em, varying costs to fix.
the starter could have been roached or its power relay broken in the crash, so even if the engine is OK, you can't turn it to start it. could be a dead maxi-fuse. those are cheap fixes.
could speculate all day, but a mechanic who looks it over for a half hour or an hour will KNOW what is wrong, and whether it's worth fixing, or needs replacement.
oh, airbag reset.... that's a forklift upgrade, you replace all the airbags and any sensors you aren't comfortable about. you can't stuff the bags back into their frames and put another load of explosive in back.
good you're alive, hope you're in good shape. the car needs to be checked out by a pro.
thanks for the reply...
About a month ago, when I left work I was puzzled when it cranked but wouldn't start. I shut off the ignition, waited ten seconds and tried again...same thing. On the third try it started and ran fine. Next evening the same thing happened and it was hard to start in the morning too.
I was going to taki it in but the problem went away. No more trouble at all until last week. When I went to leave work, I was just barely able to get it started. It cranks fine but wouldn't start. Finally, it did start and the drive home was normal.
Next morning...it wouldn't start at all.
It got towed to the shop and I'm waiting for the call now...what do you guys think?
Guess what? It won't act up now!
Starts everytime, no codes, nothing!
????
About what does this cost? If it's not too much maybe it's worth throwing a part at?
Camshaft position sensor failure can also give problems, but it's usually more of an extended crank complaint. Instead of sequential injection, the ECM gang-fires them.
AutoZone lists the Delco CKS at $42.99. They also carry Wells aftermarket at $29.99 but I'm not going there. LOL
I talked to the shop yesterday. They just can't get it to act up at all. I had a hunch something like this would happen. The guy is honest and I appreciate his reluctance to simply throw parts at it. Still, if he replaces something in the hopes it was "probably" the problem.
If he does this, and the car ever acts up again, it'll be down the road.
Thanks again!
http://www2.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=az/cds/en_u- s/0900823d/80/15/e4/2d/0900823d8015e42d.jsp
Yesterday it totally wouldn't start so today she had it towed to a chrysler dealer; They called later and said was a problem with the alarm system disabling the ignition system and were trying to pinpoint the cause before having to replace the body control module. They called later and said the body control module was gone, ordering a new one. $650.00 w/labor. Anyone know of a tsb or secret warranty on this? Seems awfully funny that a fairly new, and expensive, vehicle with only 130,000 miles should have it's electronics go bye-bye so early and not have the factory know about it.
It was out of gas.
I still don't understand though.
I'm the sort of person who usually waits until the low fuel light comes on before I fill up. Since I have less than a ten minute drive to work, this is never a problem. I have driven the Olds for two or three days with the light on before.
On the day it acted up, I had noticed the low fuel light flcker once on my way to work. It didn't stay on, just an early flicker.
That was the night it barely started but once it did, it drove home just fine. In the morning it wouldn't start at all. I do live on a hill and I parked it in front of our house pointing down the hill. Not real steep but a pretty good incline.
Of course at the shop it started right up over and over fr them. Finally, they drove it and it cut out going around a corner causing them to suspect it was out of gas.
They scanned it for codes and everything was fne. They did find vacumn lines to the fuel sensor in pieces and they replaced those. He said that could cause a hard start situation and low fuel economy.
O.K....I guess I'm an idiot for letting it get that low on gas. Won't happen again...but, still...I have this nagging feeling it's something else. I guess time will tell. I just can't understand why the low fuel light didn't operate like it did in the past? The bulb isn't burned out.
THEN, I used the trunk remote button which I NEVER do, and now the blasted trunk won't latch!!
Maybe it's time to add a third Honda to my fleet?
seriously, now you know why I never drive on less than a half tank of gas. don't ask me why I got into that mode.
'a fairly new and expensive vehicle with ONLY 130,000 miles on it'!!!
Thanks in advance - Max Forte
if all that has been done, it might be worthwhile, if they don't have a low-voltage scope input on their shop tune-up scope, to change the crank position sensor on suspicion.
how many keys are on your key ring that you usually use to run this car? if there are more than four or a heavy logo fob, I'm going out on a limb and say it's definitely the ignition switch. I've known folks who used janitor-rings of keys that weighed more than their kids did that had to replace ignition switches often until garagemen pointed and said NO! leave them home!
I remember one visitor here actually videotaped the no-start and brought the tape and his camera to the dealer for re-play!
I would agree with the assumption that it may be an ignition switch problem.
There has been problems with the terminals and actuator shaft on the Chyrsler ignition switches.
The only way to tell for sure is to get it to a no start situation, then check power going in and out of the ignition switch.
The pink, pink with black and red wires should have power at all times.
With the key to ON, the Blk w/Orange wire, dark blue wire and dark green with red wire should all have power.
With the key to start, the yellow wire, dark blue wire and dark green with red wire should have power. If any of those wires don't have power, then suspect the ignition switch, unless it is the pink or red wires, then you have a connection problem somewhere.
jonjulie,
Was any work previously done to the vehicle before this started?
If this is a dealer, tell them to check Service bulletin;
3360015, release date 06/01/2000, Immobilizer Terminals - No Start Condition
If they don't have the service bulletin, let me know and I will provide it for you.
Is this the code that you got?
ECM-720A IMMOBILIZER COMMUNICATION
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) INFORMATION
Condition
This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) indicates that the configuration between the engine control module (ECM) and the immobilizer does not correspond.
The immobilizer transmits the VIN code to the engine control module (ECM) at start attempt. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-720A is stored in the engine control module (ECM) if the engine control module (ECM) interprets the code as faulty or missing. The engine control module (ECM) will not allow the engine to be started.
Condition
none
Possible source
Faulty signal:
an engine control module (ECM) that does not correspond to the immobilizer code has been installed
an immobilizer that does not correspond to the engine control module (ECM) code has been installed
defective immobilizer
defective engine control module (ECM)
open-circuit in the communication between the immobilizer and engine control module (ECM).
Condition
engine does not start
Inspected for fault codes. code 720 present for immobilizer fault traced for connection faults none found. fuel pressure ok. rec replacing immobilizer transponder, key ,and antenna ring. Apparently, he believes this is related to the anti theft system and the special keys.
I am pretty sure that the service bulletin is what you need, but can't be certain without having the vehicle in front of me.
This tech needs to do a little more research before he makes a diagnosis, as the volvo information states pretty clear;
The engine control module has detected a fault in the communication between the immobilizer and the engine control module on an earlier occasion.
Visually check the immobilizer connections and connector.
Check the signal wire between engine control module B22 (B32) and immobilizer B5 (A35) for an intermittent open circuit, for an intermittent short-circuit to ground and for an intermittent short circuit to voltage supply.
Fault-tracing information
If the fault is intermittent, do not verify fault-tracing if the fault does not recur.
If you have any problems viewing it, let me know.
Service bulletin
Please let us know what is happening with this starting issue. I am having the same problem on my 01 Volvo C70.
I DONT want to spend $770 to fix a problem like this.
-Eric
you can email me directly at ysgiATbeerDOTcom
What could be failure? One options is the dead battery, though the lights and everythings else works well. And this battery is not old, it was replaced recently.
Any ideas?
Thanks for any help.
Any ideas?
The battery although new, may not be in good shape, so have it loaded tested.
Once you've elminated a bad battery or bad cables, then you should have the charging system checked to see if you are getting full voltage to this battery.
If all those check out, you might try jiggling your transmission lever to see if you have a tempermental neutral safety switch. This switch can also be replaced relatively easily on most cars.
After that, I'd have to suspect your ignition switch, so on a no-start you'd have to check if current is flowing to the starter motor relay.
(come to think of it, checking for current to the starter relay on a no-start is a good FIRST step in this diagnostic process).
But the battery is the primary place to start, then to cable, then to items that interfere or manipulate current to the starter motor, which are usually the safety switch or clutch pedal start switch, and the ignition switch itself.
Anyway, that's the basic logic I'd use.
Assume NOTHING is working until you test it.
Actually, before standing for three weeks without driving, the car had the following problem. It NEVER started immediately after driving, when the engine is hot. However, it always started immediately and without problems after staying for a while. May be this is a separate issue, however..
1. How to have the battery loaded tested and find out whether it is good or bad? You mean to charge it somehow independetly from the car and then give it the load? What is the most convenient way to do it?
2. If the battery happens to be bad, than what is the reason? May be I shall need to replace not only the battery. I wonder, because during the last half year all of them: battery, alternator, starter were replaced. Can one not working detail kill the others?
3. How to check the current to the starter relay and what shall it be?
4. How to check whether generating system generates electricity properly to charge the battery?
Thank you very much!
And how to check up alternator?
The alternator could possibly be checked more easily, in a general way, by placing a volt meter on each terminal of a battery while the engine is running, to see if the battery voltage stays within range when the engine is revved up a bit. I'm a bit hazy on what is "good" voltage but as I recall in the high 13s is sufficient. If the voltmeter stays flat while you rev the engine, something is probably wrong.
current to the starter relay can be tested with a simple test light. It's either on or off to the relay.
This is not the same as testing STARTER DRAW, which requires a heavy duty ammeter than most people don't have. A starter can draw hundreds of amps, and a dragging starter maybe 400 amps! That would certainly cause harder starts when hot.
You may be dealing with more than one problem, too. One thing at a time. First off, get the "no starter spinning" problem solved and make sure you have good battery and good alternator.
Your car's engine computer doesn't like low voltage and will act funny if it isn't getting full battery power. It is quite sensitive to substandard voltages.
So, what i need to know is what should be the charging current and voltage to charge the battery, until what voltage (how long should it be charged, well probably this i can figure out from its capacity) and is it ok to do this in an appartment. Is there a danger of overcharging? How to avoid it. Is it possible to buy the charging device or I need to construct it myself?
Then, what resistance shall connect to the battery? And then what voltage decrease is ok, and what is not?
My questions basically based on knowledge of theory, but I have NO practical experience with cars, so I would very grateful if you could tell where practically i can buy all the things to make these tests and find out the failure. (I had practice with circuits before and can solder and assemble them if required), but don't know where to look for all this stuff.