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"No Start" Problems

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  • zorbickzorbick Member Posts: 2
    Just tried all those battery things, still no luck. Any ideas as to what I possibly could have done to cause this jsut from dropping the starter out? I remember the guy helping me( I was trying to teach him some things) didn't unhook the ground form the terminal and arced across a couple of the old starter's terminals. Suffice to say, he handed me the wrenches from then on, but could this have fried my alternator in any way? I know the fusable links in all the cables are good. It's an old alternator, if not the original.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Now wait a minute. Are you saying you hooked up a completely new battery with completely new cables and you get nothing at all? I kinda think that isn't really possible unless you have blown every fuse in the truck. Did someone break or disconnect the engine to frame grounding strap? Even then you should get dull lights of some sort.
  • leslieklesliek Member Posts: 2
    This is starting to get old! I have a '95 Saturn SL2 with about 78k miles. It will not re-start after engine has been running - the starter does not engage - in fact there is total silence when key is turned. If I let the engine cool for about 15-20 minutes (I actually have no choice), it will start on first turn of the key. The battery is fairly new and the cable connections are clean. Sounds like it might be some some sort of electrical gremlin. Any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the starter motor or starter relay to me. A long shot would be the ignition switch. Since you have this 20 minute delay, this could be easily tested by determing if the starter relay is getting current or not. If it is, then it's not the ignition switch. Not sure on your car but on most you can by-pass the starter relay, not to start the car but to spin the starter. So if you have current to the relay and the starter spins on by-pass, you have a bad relay. If you can't bypass the relay and spin the starter, probably a bad armature in the starter motor. If you can see the starter motor, you might rap it with a heavy screwdriver or pipe and see if that does anything.

    Use caution when playing with electrical items and be sure there are no gas fumes or battery fumes around.
  • leslieklesliek Member Posts: 2
    You were right Mr Shiftright! It was the starter motor.
  • bev4bev4 Member Posts: 3
    My dad has a 1989 Ford truck 460 motor. He was hauling hay and it died. My husband put a new battery cause it wouldn't even turn over. Now it turns over but will not crank,he was fooling with the spark plugs and it cranked but when he killed it it wouldn't crank back so he put a new distributor cap on it now it turns over but will not crank. Once the shop put a new sensor in it but I don't remember w :mad: hat kind. This truck has never run well. We need to get it out the hay field!!!!
  • blazer5blazer5 Member Posts: 5
    1985 S-10 Blazer 4x4 2.8 V-6 engine would not pass smog test. Had a Valve Job done replaced heads, spark plugs/wires, cap/rotor, vacuum lines, all air filters, Cat/muffler/exhaust pipes, O2 sensor, etc. Backed fired on first start try and would not start. Could I have replaced the Distributor 180 Degrees off? Could I have tighten the valves wrong? Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A strong backfire is usually a sign of spark timing or valve timing being way off, yes. Basically the fuel is combusting through an intake valve that is open when it should be closed. Why it is open when it should be closed is what you need to find out but you are thinking correctly in terms of diagnosis. Aren't the valves hydraulic on that engine? If so, I'd look to the distributor for some problem. Could you have crossed the firing order?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your post is confusing us. "crank" and "turn" mean the same thing but you seem to be suggesting that they are different things. So we don't know if the engine is cranking but not firing, or not cranking (turning) at all. Try again.
  • stevechildsstevechilds Member Posts: 5
    I have a '87 Jeep Grand Wagoneer that wont start. This all started one day when we were at the store and when we went to leave the Jeep wouldnt start. All the electrical worked but we tried a jump anyway. Nothing. I reached under and jiggled some wire that lead to the starter and that did it. It started and restarted just fine. The next day my wife went to use the Jeep and the engine would crank and crank but would not start. I checked all the fuses and made sure all the wires were connected. It still wont start. The engine is getting fuel. I have no idea on what the problem could be. Does anyone have any ideas? :sick:
  • bev4bev4 Member Posts: 3
    Ok,turn over to me means it is trying to crank,crank means it is actually running!Never the less my husband says it is cranking but not firing! Does that make sense? He put new battery, distributor cap,starter,and coil on it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well first you'll have to test for spark at the spark plugs as you are cranking. if you have a good fat spark at the end of the plug wire you probably have a fuel problem of some sort. Check the fuse for the fuel pump relay, too. If you crank and crank and crank and nothing, you can also pull a spark plug out and see if it is wet with gasoline. That will tell you that you have no spark as well.
  • magic1magic1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1985 dodge ram 50 with a 2.0 engine. I was driving it and it started smoking and losing power. I got it home and it would not start. I put in a new set of plugs and a coil. I checked the plugs and they are sooty. I have checked everything, timing belt, spark, for fuel. The engine seams like it is a the point of starting but just wont.
  • stimistimi Member Posts: 4
    my "96 GMC sonoma truck will not start. have replaced 4 fuel pumps, new battery, and new starter over the past year. last fuel pump finally works (previous 3 would not), but will not push the gas through to start up truck. all electrical parts and hoses, etc. are working. dealership said it may be the ignition is going bad. also, was driving truck 1 month ago and truck completely shut down while going 45 mph. nothing. tried to get jump start, but still would not turn over. hasn't run since. what am i missing. also, alternator is good as well.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You need to do a compression test or cylinder leakdown test before anything else, given your symptoms. Also you need to check if the engine has "jumped time" by slipping its timing belt or slipping or busting its chain (the chain symptoms being rather rare). I can't recall if your engine uses a belt or chain, sorry.

    Actually you don't WANT to start this engine just yet until you investigate it internally a bit more.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not intending to be disrespectful, but what you're missing is a logical plan of diagnosis (or your dealer is missing it).

    First off, we need to check for an injector pulse using a noid light.

    Okay, you got a pulse, so the injectors are getting the message to squirt.

    No, do you have fuel pressure in the fuel rail? Is it ENOUGH pressure?

    Okay, you have fuel pressure and you have injectors.

    Now then, do you have SPARK at the end of the plug wires?

    Okay you have a fat spark....now it gets ugly

    Do you have compression?

    Okay you have compression. Has the timing belt slipped or broken? (does the rotor spin around when you crank the engine?)

    so step by step like this and you should at least nail the general area of the problem.

    You're missing something here---you can 't really have all things okay and not have it start, so it's missing fuel, or spark, or compression, or the timing is whacko.
  • magic1magic1 Member Posts: 4
    I have checked the timing belt and ran a compression check. The timing marks all line up. I have 135 pounds of compression on all 4. It is getting gas. The new spark plugs i put in are sooty even after it not starting. Thanks for any help.
  • stimistimi Member Posts: 4
    the engine turns, we have spark, but there is no fuel coming out of the throttle body injector. have replaced 3 fuel pumps an filter along with starter and battery. we just do not have enough pressure in fuel system or lines in general. it sounds like the engine is starving for gas. we have poured gas down the throttle body and it started right up. any more suggestions??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't you have a fuel pressure regulator on this vehicle? I believe there is a simple test to see if the diaphragm inside of it is ruptured. Sorry I don't know more, but it's hard to know all vehicles. Seems a logical place to look for your problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So you've checked for a nice fat spark at the plugs?

    What kind of "soot"? Is it oily, or just gas fouled, or???
  • stimistimi Member Posts: 4
    could this also be related to the air conditioning unit as well?
    freon was just added in february, but only blows out hot air. also, air does not blow out of 2 center air vent off dashboard as well??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The only relationship I can think of is a huge vacuum leak somewhere that is cutting off vacuum to the air ducts. I think the fuel pressure regulator is vacuum operated.
  • magic1magic1 Member Posts: 4
    Yes i have good spark. And sooty is like from you chimney, dry. I check the plugs first to see if they were wet from to much fuel. These carbs are know for going bad. I also aligned the timing marks and made sure that the rotor is pointing at #1. I am getting a little blow back through the carb though? I bought the truck 2 weeks ago and it didn't run then.The guy I bought it from said it startesd running bad and had smoke out the exhaust, he drove it home and it wouldn't start after that. Thanks for your help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Geez, this is sounding like a timing issue or a carburetor that is just DUMPING huge amounts of fuel.

    Have you checked your dipstick. Is the level extra high?
  • magic1magic1 Member Posts: 4
    Yah I thought that it could have been fuel to so I disconnected the fuel line to the carb and ran all the fuel out of it. Then put a little gas in the carb and it still didn't start. I got it to start for about 15 seconds today. The guy had put the wire to the distributer rotated one position off all the way around the cap and then put the distributer in so it would fire right, so I fixed that. The oil level is right and there is no smell of gas on the stick. Still stumped, but trying.

    Thank
  • bigbird0612bigbird0612 Member Posts: 3
    I was driving my car and the engine died. Now the car turns over but it won't start. My Uncle sprayed starting fluid in the breather and got it to start for a few seconds.
    We checked the spark plug wires and are not getting any spark. Fuel pressure seems to be fine when they check it.
    So far we have replaced the ecm, ignition control module, crankshaft sensor, coils, and fuel filter. Any other suggestions would be great. We are at a loss.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your post in confusing. If the car starts briefly with starting fluid, then you have spark. You need to recheck this and if it continues to run briefly with starting fluid (DON'T USE TOO MUCH OR TOO OFTEN), then you're wasting your time with electrical items I think.
  • bev4bev4 Member Posts: 3
    Ok, I am not sure if you all wrote" this and that" for me but I took a spark plug out today and looked at it and it looked alittle damp but not soaked in fuel. It was rusty but not any carbon on it. Then we cranked on it and all I could see was air coming out where I took the plug out. Now what do I need to do!
  • bigbird0612bigbird0612 Member Posts: 3
    I know it sounds confusing, when we pull the plug wires off and turn the car over while someone touches the spark plugs there is nothing. We tried this with several different ones. Everyone that we have tallked to said that it should have shocked us, but it never does.
    But sometimes when we squirt starting fluid in the breather, it starts. This is why we are so confused.
    Any more suggestions.
  • dhski04dhski04 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Accord V6 Coupe with about 80k miles on it. I live in Illinois and recently we have had some hot, humid weather (upper 80's) and my car won't start when it has been sitting out in the heat of the day. The problem is predictably tied to the heat of the day. It starts up fine and drives great to work in the morning when it is cool. At lunch, it will not start. I turn the key and it sounds like it is going to fire up but it doesn't. I am positive it is not a battery problem because the crank is really strong. After work around 3:30 or so, I've always been able to start it, but it takes several minutes of trying to start it. Once I get it going, it runs great. (I have noticed a sharp decrease in gas milage, but I think this might be more related to the fact that I've been doing more city driving). I took it to a repair shop and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and that it started for them (not as hot today I don't think). As I said, I can predict when it is not going to start, it isn't an intermittent issue...any ideas?
  • liberty5liberty5 Member Posts: 4
    G'evening. My problem is that my car's engine has just recently started shutting down, while I am driving - without any prior warning signs that I am aware of. Happened again today, while slowing down for a stop sign in the parking lot.(thankfully). I was able to have the battery boosted and the car started right up. The fellow who assisted me said it was "odd" because the power indicator on the battery looked fine and was green.

    Earlier in the week the only thing out of the ordinary was the ABS indicator light came on and wouldn't go off for the longest time. Also, the last two mornings the car wouldn't start right away. I left it for awhile and tried again, then it'd start. Same thing when driving downtown but I thought maybe it was overheated. I do have a full tank of gas and all the fluids levels are proper etc.

    Even if I could have some suggestions for some trouble-shooting that'd be helpful. I will most likely have to take it into the local garage but would rather have some information ahead of time, if possible.

    Car repairs are maxxing out my learning curve. Thank you in advance :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you'll need to have it diagnosed step by step. First thing I'd do is check the alternator output. If the battery voltage drops down to a certain point, even IF the battery is charging somewhat weakly, the ecm will shut down. Your car's computer needs a minimum voltage to operate.

    If all that's okay, and they get the car started, I'd check for fuel pressure, which I suspect is your problem. If the car doesn't start, I'd put a noid light on the injectors to see if they are getting a pulse. If they are, I'd check spark, and then I'd check fuel pressure in the injection rail.

    So you work from basics, from the simple to the more complex. Given that the car just stops while driving, this isn't very subtle, so I would think the failure should be obvious when diagnosed.
  • liberty5liberty5 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your reply.

    It happened again this morning, but I managed to get it into a nearby shop. The mechanics did a diagnostic test on it and let it run for a long while.

    The alternator is fine, the battery is good.. the only thing they could come up with was a "crank sensor error". Their computer showed that the car has had similar problems twice before, I guess. Not too clear on how that all works. The only frustrating part is that if I say "Yes, go ahead and do the $270 worth of repairs" there is still no guarantee that it'll fix the problem, not even for a day (according to the mechancic)... Gee, I don't know.. Not sure which direction to go now.

    One question, please. Is a crank sensor something that you would consider buying from one of those Auto Parts (used), or not? We have several of those in town but I wouldn't want to go that route if it wasn't too logical.

    Thank you again.. ~~ Liberty
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well a bad crank sensor would explain your symptoms, so it's not an irrational diagnosis.

    I'd never buy an electronic part used, no, but if you want to shop around for a new one, and get a book that might tell you how to install one, that might be okay.
  • lprattlpratt Member Posts: 2
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    #329 of 333 smoking dashboard???? by lpratt Jun 10, 2005 (9:21 am)
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    Hi...I just recently went and bought an 1989 Ford Taurus car. I had to things that I thought were wrong....both E-brake cables and a bottom radiator hose...well just recently I was driving it and all of a sudden it started making this weird clicking sound. Then a very loud knocking sound followed...well water pump was shot...fixed that and replaced belts and it was then taken on a test drive and it sounded normal again. Well in return, the car was parked and shut off. Well when it was time to restart it...first it had absolutly no power to anything, no turn over....nothing. then the dash started to smoke a very thick smoke and also out of the steering wheel area....I have no idea what happend....would this be an ignition problem or electrical??? Nobody knows what is wrong with it....any advise
  • liberty5liberty5 Member Posts: 4
    Yes, thank you. I did phone around to several places in town. Managed to get a quoted cost of $50 cheaper. (Place is well-known). I just learned where to put coolant and oil, Mr_Shiftright, I won't be installing any crank sensors.. lol

    I appreciate your assistance. Have a fun weekend.

    ~~ Liberty
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well good luck with it I hope it solves your problem!
  • vagvag Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 1994 Honda accord with about 150K miles on it. It cracks fine but stops within a few seconds. Yesterday it did the same thing but started after a few tries and ran fine. Today I have not able to get the car running. Every time I turn on the ignition it cranks fine but the engine stops after a few seconds. I had the starter replaced last year and the fuel injection service was done about two years ago. I will appreciate any advise.
    Thanks.
  • jonkatjonkat Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1985 Alfa Romeo that isn't getting any spark. I turned the car off and now it won't start. The mechanic checked the plugs and said there was no spark. The car is turning over but not starting. Can any one help me?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That car needs a really strong battery to fire. Try a jump start before you do anything else.
  • jonkatjonkat Member Posts: 3
    I was told not to jump start this car because it would hurt the ECU unit. The car had run out of gas and it was hurt to start. The car will try to start but the mechanic said there was no spark when he checked the spoark plugs. Thank You for any help you can give me.
  • jonkatjonkat Member Posts: 3
    Tried to jump start and it just cranked
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Try using a LITTLE bit of starter fluid in the intake...if it fires then you know you have a fuel delivery problem. If it wont' fire the starter fluid, then probably a spark problem so I'd start with testing components in the distributor. This is a common Bosch system you have so information on diagnosis should be available from the library or from any good shop that works on Bosch injection. Your ignition is Morelli I believe and for that you'll need an Alfa service manual to diagnose it.
  • bigbird0612bigbird0612 Member Posts: 3
    Still won't start. Any ideas.
  • stevechildsstevechilds Member Posts: 5
    My 1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer still wont start. I have checked some things out and found that there is no spark to the plugs or to the ecu. The battery is good and was brought back up to a full charge. All the wires look like they are connected and the battery cables are clean and in good shape. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I could look next or what the problem could be? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Forgive me if you mentioned this, but have you replaced the ignition module?
  • stevechildsstevechilds Member Posts: 5
    No I havent. Where is it? Would it be cheaper to replace the car?? lol...

    Thank you!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No I think it's $80 or something. It is the device that regulates the signal from your distributor. Not sure where it is on the Cherokee but on the Wrangler it hangs out on the inner left front fender apron. I do know that if you have the 4.0 six cylinder engine, then these modules are replaced by the barrelful on Jeeps.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Which engine?
  • breezie1breezie1 Member Posts: 3
    Help. my 1996 plymouth breeze shuts off after it has started. had a diagnostic done & they can't find the problem. check engine light is not on. if i let it sit overnight it starts right up. it stutters like it wants to cut off & once it warms up a little it shuts off. when u try to start the car it makes noise like it wants to start up but it never turns over. had catalytic converter & oxygen sensors replaced because car was running so rough; now car won' start. have had sparked plugs and coil pack replaced--did not fix problem. any suggestions on what it could be would be greatly appreciated. don't know what else to try
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