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"No Start" Problems

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Comments

  • lizardfire5lizardfire5 Member Posts: 1
    My dodge stratus won't start after travelling from Vancouver to Williams Lake. I was driving it up till two Sundays ago now all I get is the engine trying to do something but there is no spark to kick over the engine. Could someone suggest something I could check that I haven't thought of yet? I have checked the fuses, the fluids, the battery connections, the starter sounds fine and the alternator hasn't drained the battery yet. So can someone tell me what I have forgotten! Please HELP ME!!!

    Thanks
  • aurora141gaurora141g Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 jgc limited. A few days ago i noticed a high pitch while i accelerated, and the radio and lights seemed to have some trouble working. Since then power locks/remote entry stopped working and the vehicle now won't start. I've even tried jumping it but no luck. If anyone has an idea what this could be please let me know. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like you fried the alternator.
  • visaccordvisaccord Member Posts: 1
    it is the distrubtor i had the same pro with my 2000 stratus fix the dis and all is good now hope everything is good
  • interstate10interstate10 Member Posts: 3
    Would that cause an intermittent problem? I have the same problem on the same car (I posted a message too, but nobody replied), and it will seem to fix itself if I let it sit for a few hours. It hasn't given me any trouble lately, but I'm afraid to trust driving it. I was told the cam-shaft sensor (which on my particular engine is built into the distributor) was the most likely cause. Yet another mechanic told me that that would cause a permanent problem...so I don't know who to believe.
  • yanzpyanzp Member Posts: 2
    Dear all:
    I will go to court tomorrow to sue a mechanic and need technical support from you!
    I couldn't start my 95 Ford Probe GT in May 20th. When I turned the key, there was whirring sound. But after several hours and several tries, it started again. The battery was good and jump-cable didn't help. To make sure everything is ok, I brought to a new mechanic to check the car in May23rd, since my own mechanic was very busy that week.
    I was told that the alternator was bad. After I paid $413, I picked my car. But after several weeks, the problem appeared again. The car couldn't start but after several hours, it started again.
    My own mechanic told me that if the battery is fully charged, if I throw out the alternator, I can still start the car every time.
    Obviously, the starting problem has nothing to do with the alternator.
    Since that mechanic refused to refund me money, I sued him.
    $413 is a lot of money to a student like me.
    If possible, could you give me more technical support regardint to this?
    best,
    zhipeng Yan
    :lemon:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't get legal advice from the Internet, no matter how well intentioned.

    Just tell your story, be honest and bring all your receipts. Small claims court often favors the consumer but you must be prepared and NEVER get angry and NEVER interrupt the judge or your opponent.

    Good luck.
  • peter1981peter1981 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Civic CX with 97,000 miles and a manual trans. Sometime when I turn the key to start it, it does nothing. If i slightly depress the clutch it will begin to turn over. Is this a clutch safety switch problem or something else, and is it something I would be able to fix myself and not have to go to a mechanic?
  • shaunmcshaunmc Member Posts: 1
    Long story but... Daughters car would have problems starting cold. It would turn over but not fire. We found that if you just left the key to the on position, anywhere from 1-5 mins it would then start right up, assuming you waited long enough. That seemed to be getting worse, having to wait longer and then she would have problems starting it after school, about six hours. Anyway did some research online and though maybe it was a fuel pump problem, all posts recommended to try the fuel pressure regulator first. So thats what I tried the problem the part that came in was wrong so I put the original one back in. Since then a week ago now it won't crank at all no matter how long I leave it sit of who long i try to crank it. I have now checked the following...
    Took both the intake and return fuel hoses off one at a time and tried to crank, both are getting fuel,
    Checked the spark plugs for fuel at the tips, they are wet, not soaked but wet with fuel.
    Tried disconnecting one fuel injector to see if maybe it would fire the other 3, no luck.
    Finally decided maybe its not a fuel issue and started checking ignition, especially since I replace the rotor and distcap about 2 days before. I took one of the spark plug wires put a piece of wire in it and check for spark against groud while car was being started, I either got no spark or a very faint yellow spark. Next I tried the same thing but this time with the spark plug attached and touching ground, nothing at all that way....

    Checked all fuses they all look good, altough I don't know if I have a relay or something I don't know about. Also my 100 amp fuseable link, coming off the positive side of the battery looks good although it seems to be stuck and I can't get it out to test.

    What gives? I am thinking maybe a bad rotor or distcap but that doesn't explain the pre-existing cold start problem.... How can I check the ignition coil on a 93 galant, its built into the distributor... also have seen posts about the cam position sensor or ecu board... car is too old to just throw parts and dollars at....

    Help my daughter wants her car back....

    Thanks

    Shaun
  • tobyicetobyice Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2001 jeep cherokee sport and it wont start. i have fuel prssure and no fire, i changed the coil pack that goes over the spark plugs and that didnt fix it, it gave me no problems before this except the check engine came on and it said the emission had a leak and then just a coupl.e days later i went to the store late and in the morning it wouldnt start. iot cranks but no fire please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • rhartfordrhartford Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 sunfire. It will start, as soon as you let off the key it dies. If you keep the starter engaged it will stay running. As soon as the starter disengages, the engine dies like it looses fuel and power.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check these fuses, then verify that each has battery voltage to them with key at On and Crank positions. If any don't have power with key On, replace ignition switch.

    IGN 20A, FP/INJ 20A, PCM/IGN 10A
  • cdumancduman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1982 Audi 4000 S with just 87,000 miles on it, and a fuel injected system. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuse block, spark plugs, rotor and cap, and wires; I've also fixed the timing and cleaned off the visible grounds. Its getting fuel, power, and has compression. It turns over, but just doesn't fire. Are there any tricks, or inexpensive operations I can do to get it running???
  • eighthrockeighthrock Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Nissan Sentra, it will not start unless I pour cas into the carb, then it will not run after it consumes this gas. What could be wrong? I've heard I could have a vapor lock, is this possible?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, not vapor lock. Sounds like a fuel pump or fuel pump relay. You have a carburator on that car?
  • eighthrockeighthrock Member Posts: 2
    Yes there is a carburator on the car,, can you tell me where the fuel pump relay is located? Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't know. Try www.autozone.com and click on "repairs" and look up your car, your year, and then the fuel system. It may show what you need; otherwise, you'll have to go to the public library and get out a book or CD rom for your car.
  • cdumancduman Member Posts: 2
    Hey I replaced the fuel pump relay in my Audi, and it was placed in my fues block under the dash. it looks like a small cube that plugs in to the block. But it may be different on your nissan... give it a try if you haven't figured it out yet.
  • sunfiresuesunfiresue Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Pontiac Sunfire, that has been having starting problems for about 3 weeks. The car started having an error message, "locked stereo" message and all my dash board lights showed up. I then had it sitting for about 6 days, and then it wouldn't start. Finally got it started and it drove perfectly fine with no error messages for about two days. Then when out in the morning to start it and would not start. It will turn over for a second or two then stalls. I noticed it does this when its damp/rainy out..Any thoughts?
  • tecumsehtecumseh Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 Tahoe has developed a similar (or the same) problem. Starting in the Spring of 2005 it began not starting first thing in the morning - plenty of gas, engine turns over fine - just no start. Every time this happens I have to coast downhill to a gas station (thank god there is one downhill from me) and pump a couple of dollars worth in - then it starts right up. Doesn't work to pour gas into the tank from a can - has to be shot from the nozzle. I just took my car to the dealer and they are clueless ("We couldn't make it happen, and can't see anything wrong - you're probably just going to have to buy a new $650 fuel pump..."). Happened again this morning.

    Does this sound like your problem? Have you solved it?
  • mhall002mhall002 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '95 Dodge Avenger that has intermittent no-starts. When it does not start, 90% of the time I'm able to get it to turn over by jumping the starter. I've been through 3 starters already and a battery. When it doesn't start, there's nothing at all. Meaning I turn the key and get absolutely nothing. I saw on a website that it could possibly be due to a damaged wire near the transaxle shift lever. Any suggestions?
  • gphelpneededgphelpneeded Member Posts: 2
    Simply put, Once the car is started, the engine shuts off- sometimes right away, sometimes after a few minutes. Can someone PLEASE help? I need a reliable car...Thank you!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Make, model, year and service history? My crystal ball is in for repairs.
  • gphelpneededgphelpneeded Member Posts: 2
    1997 grand prix- it's been pretty reliable until the last few weeks... :confuse:
  • cwedgecwedge Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1987 chevy truck with TBI. I recently replaced the motor and everything was working fine. For some reason now it wont start after sitting over night. I did not replace the wiring harness, i think maybe i should have. Sometimes i can get it to start by unhooking the neg battery term, then un hooking the four wire connector at the distributor, turning the key on and shocking the system. Then by re connecting everything it starts right up. It has a new ECM in it. Should i replace the entire wiring harness?

    Thanks
  • cheesebaitcheesebait Member Posts: 3
    Hey everybody, I'm having problems starting up my old Benz. I now realise I shouldn't have left the car sitting in the garadge for 3 years. When I insert the key and try to start it up, it does nothing. What steps do you think I should do if any to get this car back on the rode. Hopefully I wont have to replace the engine.

    P.S. The battery is brand new so it's not an old batery.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Clean your battery terminals really well with a wire brush. If you still don't get anything, you'll have to check your starter and starter relay? Do you have headlights? glow plug light?

    You may also have to drain your fuel tank.
  • jbartschjbartsch Member Posts: 1
    drove to a restaurant, ate, came back out and it wouldn't even turn over. I assumed battery, and replaced. Still no start. I took the starter-solenoid assy out and tested good at parts store. I tried transmission in neutral and park. Could it be one of the relay switches on the firewall below the fuses? Thanks for any input.
    -John-
  • napoleonnapoleon Member Posts: 16
    has anyone ever opened up a dodge computer to do repairs? I have a 95 5.9L ram van 3500 with an electrical short in the ecm. is there a way to remove the resin goop that covers the components on the inside. it appears to be a simple fix if i can get inside without destroying it HELP!
  • cheesebaitcheesebait Member Posts: 3
    Ya I could get my lights on but I'm not sure if there's enough flow to start the car or turn it over. Just to add, its a diesel so that might mean my engine is dead but I just want to try all other possibilities.

    -Edit- I don't have a test light for the glow plug terminal. Maybe I should try that out.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if it isn't cranking fast enough don't worry about the glow plugs just yet. You have to spin a diesel over fairly fast to get it to start, as it relies solely on compression of the fuel to ignite the fuel.
  • cheesebaitcheesebait Member Posts: 3
    All of my fuel/oil has been sitting there for 3 years. Which ones if any should I replace?
  • toms92toms92 Member Posts: 2
    The thief also took the ignition disconnect device. Dealership wants 800 to replace, is there a way to by pass. Everything electrical works except getting the starter to engage. The device I thought was standard, any help would be appreciated. Due to the body damage that occured while stolen, the above cost in addittion to the 978.00 paid for towing and storage,(recovered while out of town) has me searching for the most inexpensive alternative.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should probably drain the diesel fuel tank (yuck), replace the fuel filters and change the oil after the car starts up. Also you might look at the condition of the brake and clutch fluid (if manual trans) and if it is dark and murky, flush that out, too. Also the radiator coolant if it is not bright green in colo but rather rusty colored.
  • sidrosidro Member Posts: 3
    This sounds like a problem I have with a 97 plymouth grand voyager, 3.3 engine. Lately, it is failing to crank on first turn of the key after sitting longer than an hour-ok if i am out shopping and doing a lot of stopping and starting. Seems to be getting worse as the dayys goes by=been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Has not failed to start yet, but I am sure it will soon.

    I have let the parts places check out the battery, starter, alternator. they say they are all ok? I have cleaned the battery terminals but it does not seem to work.

    The car has 120k miles=never had a problem before cranking or starting. Battery probably close to end of its life-I switched out with a newer battery from another vehicle but that did not help with the problem.
  • jumbojim77jumbojim77 Member Posts: 1
    Just reposting to ask if you resolved this problem as i am having the same exact problem myself
    95 galant
  • sidrosidro Member Posts: 3
    yes, still have the problem with the voyager-still starting but fails on first, or second, or third, or ... attempt-always turns over if I keep trying?
  • sidrosidro Member Posts: 3
    update. 3.3 voyager starting problem. this morning went out see if it would start-will not start this morning-knew it was just a matter of time before it completly shut down. I will post when I find out what is the problem.
  • vikingcavikingca Member Posts: 4
    I have the same symptoms on my 97 Safari. Have replaced ignition wires, rotor & cap, & sparkplugs because this is what the computer diagnostics indicated. The stalling and no firing still takes place at times. The remaining items are CRANK SENSOR, ELECTRONICS IGNITION MODULE, IGNITION COIL, & THE PICKUP SENSOR LOCATED INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING. This is getting very expensive!!!!!!
    I am begining to suspect the crank sensor and would like to know if it can be tested????? CAN ANYONE HELP????
    I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ASK FLYBABY IF YOU HAVE RESOLVED THIS PROBLEM?? :sick: :confuse: :(
  • parfeniukparfeniuk Member Posts: 2
    Hey!

    I saw your posting from sept. 2005 and i don't have an answer for you....but i am having the exact same problem. I was wondering if you got your problem fixed..and if you did ..how..and how much did it cost?

    Can you please get back to me.

    Thanks alot

    Graham :confuse:
  • parfeniukparfeniuk Member Posts: 2
    Hey!
    I have a 1994 ford prob gt.
    My fuel cutout system was triggered in some mysterious way while the car was parked in my driveway and i can't get it to reset. I've push the fuel reset button (located in the trunk) in and out multiple times but with no luck. I know my battery and altinater are operating fine so this is very frustrating! I was just wondering if anyone had a possible solution to this problem. Please get back to me!

    Thanks for you HELP

    Graham
    Parfeniuk@hotmail.com, parf0860@wlu.ca
  • manfrommarsmanfrommars Member Posts: 1
    My daughters 97 Mazda Protoge will not start when temperature is below about 20 F. It started today - temp 30 F. Just replaced cracked exhaust manifold and one defective fuel injector. Compression good in all cylinders, new plugs, wires, cap. The plugs were fouled from excess fuel - should I suspect fuel pump? HELP - my mechanic is at a loss as am I.
  • chick_mechanicchick_mechanic Member Posts: 2
    1993 Ford Escort LX 4cyl 1.9.
    After driving off my car for 40 minutes, I noticed that the car did not have any pickup when I accelerated up a hill, and shut it off about 10 minutes later after noticing that the car would not accelerate. I let it rest about a half hour, and it started up okay, and but after driving 3 blocks, the car completely died.
    I have a new battery, but the car revs, but doesn't engage.
    All the lights come on, radio/turn signal/everything else works.
    Any ideas?
    :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the transmission (if automatic) or clutch to me.
  • msgramsgra Member Posts: 1
    This sounds like bad starter contacts. Most shops will only change the starter but it's the contacts that are going. They will eventually totally fail.
  • badealerbadealer Member Posts: 1
    88 Olds Delta 88.I put a new fuel filter on it. I get fuel at the rail. The car fires and runs for 4-5 seconds, backfires, and dies. If i wait a minute or turn the key off and on a few times the car will again run 5 seconds and shut off. Is this a weak pump or bad relay or what??
  • leonardjagleonardjag Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Mitz 3000gt. My car will turn over but would not crank. I have no fire at plugs. Desperate to find out what is wrong.
  • mammymammy Member Posts: 3
    I have a Jeep Wrangler 1994 with about 140,000 miles. It has developed a starting - or not starting problem. There is no rhyme or reason to when it will or will not start. Night or day, cold or hot, dry or wet, full moon or new...Just no pattern. Sounds like when you try to start a car when it's out of gas - but the tank is full! Then a lot of gasping and sputtering and finally yahoo! (or sometimes not). The crank sensor has ben changed, vacum hose, spark plugs, wires,distributor cap, dry gas, injector cleaner, serpentine belt and a couple other commomon little things. NOTHING works. The Three garages (including a Jeep dealership) can't seem to figure this out. It has been 2 months. Oh also - no check engine light. The "ECM" term has been thrown out - to the tune of about $500 plus labor. Don't want to go that route on just a guess as I've already dumped $700 into it on guesses..Now as an aside -in the past few weeks my daughters friend with an older Jeep Cherokee has the same problem - her garage can't figure it out either and gave it back to her with a big old shrug and a sorry....Any input or ideas? Help I love the stupid thing and really miss the 4 wheel drive in the snow here in Maine!!! Thanks so much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like somebody has been doing a lot of guessing.

    Has a compression test been done?

    plugs wires, distributor cap and crank sensor were okay but the other things have nothing to do with intermittent starts.

    Isn't there an ignition module on this model that controls the distributor spark? What about that? It's either on the left fender or in the distributor itself, I forget.
  • mammymammy Member Posts: 3
    Don't know about the compression test...ran like a top before this started. Runs a bit rough with hickups if/when it starts now. Had compression issues with other ancient vehicles before and this doesn't act the same -but hey what do I know?
    Oh yeah - forgot - 3 or 4 vacuum hoses too. Just keep changing them just in case - must be easy to do. hee hee hee.
    The most unnecessary work, oddly enough, has been done by the jeep dealership which I thought would be the most knowledgeable group and best place to take it. I will mention the ignition module to the garage that has it now.
    I'll bet it is something so simple too - just gotta track it (the problem)down! AAARGH Thanks
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