Well a scanner doesn't tell you which part is defective, only which circuit is involved. You'll never get an "answer" from a scanner, only a direction for further diagnosis so to speak.
I'd believe the car rather than the scanner in this case.
91 Cherokee has had intermittent problems for years with start switch when cold and all I had to do was go to N,and it would start. Last week I washed off the underside of vehicle to remove mag chloride de-icer, vehicle was cold but restarted and I drove it 10 ft into garage. Now it cranks, smells of fuel, but won't fire. Did I get something wet?
Try to start and the engine will turn over for about 3 seconds then die. After repeated attempts (4 max) the engine will then not even turn over. Kicker is after letting the car sit for 6+ hours the car will start just fine. This problem will then not appear again for about a month. Have had the car towed to the dealership only to have the car start and no problems be found. Offered to replace the fuel pump but could not quarantee success. I have seen some discussion on this problem but hoping someone has an answer. Battery checks out fine, and have tried using different keys but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.
This Jeep has an intermittent starting problem...when cold I can turn the ignition and get a "click" but no fire. This can go on for 0-20 times before it finally cranks with no problem. I've had the battery and alternator checked (good) and have pulled the starter relay/solenoid and starter and they bench checked good. All connections are clean and tight...any suggestions? Thanks
MY V70R has been having difficulty starting in the morning lately. When it does start it runs perfectly all day and has no difficulty starting. I can hear my fuel pump running and none of the injectors are leaking. I had my throttle body replaced by volvo about a year ago. The OBD2 shows nothing. Any ideas?
I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee that kept over heating so took the head off and it was warped .015. I had it planed and then put it back on and now it won't start. It will crank but not start. It has spark. It seems the fuel pressure is not there although I do have fuel coming out the hose I take off from fuel pump and put a cup and in 2 seconds it has about 5 oz. coming out. Not sure about the injectors. I did remove them as a unit and put them back in as a unit. Any help will be appreciated.
I have 90 Jeep Cherokee with inline 6 4.0 engine that won't start. I was having problems with it overheating and took the head off and it was warped. Put back together and it won't start now no matter what I do. It has compression, and the timing wasn't touched. There is spark at plugs and the fuel rail is full. I think it may be the Crankshaft Positon Sensor but it ohms out like the book says and i have a friend that has an 87 and we ohmed his out and it is the same. It doen't change states when cranking though. Should it? Any assisstance will be appreciated.
94 roadmaster won't start, changed battery, fuses are OK passkey dash light flashes, can start car on soleniod, but will not continue to run. Tried 3 keys, no change. What can I do to fix this? Help!
Hello, I have a 1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat. Yesterday the truck, which has been very dependable, would not start. There were no lights or gauges working. The battery was tested and replaced. The truck started and then died after about 30 seconds. Same thing a second time. This morning I went out to start and no lights or movement of gauges. I tried to cross the celinoid and there were no sparks. Could someone please help me? Thank you very much. Mike
Thank you for responding. I don't know how to test the charging system, but I did check the cable at engine block. In that I had some difficuly doing so, I think I better have my truck towed, however, I want to thank you for your assistance! Good luck to you and wish me good luck. Thanks Mike
:confuse: I have a 1998 Oldmobile Eighty Eight. It has a 3800 Series II 3.8L V6 engine w/ 80,000 miles. It was running great and it just fouled out. We replaced the plugs because they were a mess and were covered with oil. At the same time, we replaced the battery because it was swollen and old and the starter was replaced too. After doing all of this, the engine ran great for about a minute then it fouled out again going out slowly like it was running out of gas. The new plugs are now evenly covered with oil. There were no noises before the engine stopped either time. No rattling or clacking. We suspect a cracked intake manifold, but would rather find someone who has run into this problem before pulling everything apart.
I have a 64 Impala and just put a used Edelbrock carb on the 327. the guy said it ran fine before pulled, not sure how long it sat. It will fire right up with a shot of starter fluid but will not stay running. I am getting fuel into the bowls (pulled top and adjusted floats) and when operating the throttle by hand I can see fuel slightly squirt into the opening thru two small tubes at front/center. However I do not know if it is enough. Any help would be appreciated.
A week ago my car started to act up and not start on the first attempt, I had the starter changed and did a regular oil change on the car since it was due anyway. I continued to have the problem I then had the spark plugs changed and timing/idle adjusted, checked all the fuses still the same problem. Has this ever happened to anyone else or does anyone know what to do? I'm at my wits end and need to get this problem fixed....PLEASE HELP!!!!!!
You'll have to pull it and clean it up, especially the jetting, also check the base gasket for vacuum leaks. It's really not a good idea to put a used carburator on, this rarely works.
I have an '84 Toyota pickup SR5 EFI. Whenever I turn on some accessory - radio, wipers, fan, etc - the engine begins to sputter and eventually dies. And whatever it is also drains the battery over a few days. I jump it, starts right up, but same problem if I turn anything on. Any ideas? Thanks. New here. If there's a better place to post this please let me know.
My first guess would be an alternator not charging properly. Could be a defective alternator, poor wiring connector to the alternator, dirty battery cable, loose battery negative cable at the engine block, etc, etc. Culd even be as simple as a loose alternator belt. Have the charging system checked, and have the battery load tested.
Ok, I had the starter changed and all was fine, until today. Over the weekend I had a Honda Emissions Service Update ( change distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, spark plugs, oil and filter) car was running like a dream then today when I got in my car to go home from work nothing. I had to crank her 5 times to get her going. Every time I hear the starter click and the fuel pump hum but nothing. I took her in for service before I found out about Honda's Warranty and the mechanic told me that I needed some kind of oil gasket because there was oil around my spark plugs. Could that be the source of my problem??? I'm thinking I'm having some kind of problem in the ignition or with the electrical but am not sure any suggestions, thoughts. I love this car but I don't want to put money into something unreliable..I thought Honda's were unbreakable????
I have an 2003 Z71 Chev Suburban that occasionally decides the battery died. Have a new battery worked 2 weeks and again died. Can jump start it and it will run until it decides not to. Have had it checked several times by an mechanic to no avail. I have heard there are alot of them out there with same year and model having the same problem. No one seems to be able to find the problem. Anymore ideas from someone that has the same problem or a resolution to it.
I believe I have a start problem. What might be some indications that the starter is bad, like click, click,etc., the vehicle is a 1993 ford escort lx, with a 1.9 liter engine.
I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH MY 1990 ACURA INTEGRA CAR THE PROBLEM: WHEN THE GEAR SELECTOR IS IN PARK POSITION AND THE KEY IS TURNED TO THE START POSITION OCCASIONALLY THE S3 LIGHT FLASHES. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE CAR WILL NOT CRANK AT ALL. YOU CAN TRY TO START IT BUT IT WILL NOT CRANK. IT WILL SPIN OVER AND IT IS GETTING A GOOD CONNECTION WITH THE BATTERY. I'VE NOTICE IT REALLY ACTS UP DURING THE HOT SUMMER MONTH . WHEN IT IS COLD THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH IT. WHEN THE P ON THE DISPLAY IS LIT UP AND THE S3 IS NOT IT WILL CRANK BUT SOMETIMES IT WILL DIED AND THE S3 LIGHT WILL START TO BLINK. IS THERE ANY BODY THAT CAN HELP ME PLEASE PLEASE P.S. I HAD THE COMPUTER AND THE TRANSMISSION BOX CHECK AND EVERYTHING IS OKAY.
My 1995 Chrysler Sebring has had problems with idling and it cuts out bad when at 3500 rpm.The previous owner tried to fix it but ran out of patience.He replaced the computer,map sensor andother non related items on the car only to find that it still runs crappy and it wont smog.I really like the car(especially when its all I have and a limited budget)so I would really like some imput.Parts are not cheap and the local shop here is not an option.Thanks.
I have a 1990 Maxima that once in a while when hot will not start, it does turn over but will not start, it does not happen frequent enough to check it out, after a minute or two it will start up, it is hard to fix when it is starting, but it is not dependable enough to have the daughter drive it. I had a Honda Accord that had a similar problem it was the fuel pump relay, any help will be appreciated
84 towncar, wont start, started yesterday but took a long time, today engin turns over but acts like its flooded or there is no fire to plugs changed coil wire and cleaned and checked disstrb any other ideas?
I have a 98 tj with a 4.0 5 spd. it has been down for about the last year. I went out to fix the probs today(completed) and the darn thing will not start. It cranks over but is not getting any fire. I have replaced the coil, wires, cap, and rotor,and all fuses are ok. Oh yeah and the battery also. I am pretty sure i am getting fuel I can smell it with cranking but no pressure in the rail. I am at my wits end with this thing. Is there an ecsm that can go bad? could it be the computer itself, or is it something simple I am missing? I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
About a week ago my mother in-law killed her '99 Dodge Neon. When she turns the key it makes no noise. We tried jumping it and that failed. She tried to convince me that if I hit the starter with a hammer that it will dislodge the cillinoid and it will start. I am very leary about doing this. Is it possible that this will work and could it be something else?
I hope she meant "tap" the starter, not hit it. I suppose the solenoid could be bad and might wake up with a whack. But of course that doesn't fix anything.
Have you checked your battery cables for corrosion? Have you shifted the automatic transmission in and out of gear?
I have the exact same problem with my 98 T&C. When you say turn over for 3 seconds, you mean starts. The engine actually fires and it is going. BUT it quits after like 3 secs. Also it will do so on successive attempts. And after around 4 trys, it does nothing. Then after several hours or days it will work fine again.
It is not the starter! After the 4th try and it stops turning over when you turn the key, You can apply voltage to the starter solenoid and the starter will crank away.
It does not appear to be the starter relay although it may check good and still not work. Mine checks out good.
Did yours ever get fixed? If so, what was the problem? Thanks.
Dont know if anyone has replied to you but you can take it to the local auto parts store as they normaly will test it for free ...if you cant get it there get an Ohm (or mutlimeter) and check that your system is charging at 14.3 - 14.6 volts if its not then you have a prob with the charging system.. depending on what the reading is depends on what the prob could be... if you still need advice let me know what you find or ask me any question.. :sick:
Here's the deal with my '95 Jimmy SLT. I got it about a year ago with 87,000 miles on it, it was in pretty good shape. I love it! But, within the first few week of us getting it it just wouldn't start, luckily it was within 30 days of purchasing it so the dealership had to pay to tow it and loko at it. Then all they said was, "Sorry, it sat for a while then it started and now we can't tell what's wrong with it." Ok, so this happened like three or four times within the first 30 days of us buying it. It would just not start. First we were thinking it was a fuel problem, which we still think it might be, the gas gauge changes, it fluxuates up and down like a quarter tank while driving it. So we always just try and keep it at a half tank or above. But, a year later, this is still happening. Even with a full tank of gas, it doesn't matter. Sometimes it just won't start and it'll have to sit. Sometimes it only needs to sit for a few hours, sometimes it has to sit for several days before it'll start. Most of the time some starting fluid will work, but it's getting worse and worse and still nobody has been able to tell us what the problem is. Anyone have a similar experience? Anyway, now that our warranty just ran up it seems like it's getting way worse. We're having to pump starting fluid into that truck like two or three times a week just to get it to turn over. Also, now it's stalling a little before it cranks over every time we turn it on. I can tell whatever is wrong with it is getting ready to go out completely very soon. Of course it doesn't happen until the warranty is up though. Any clues, guys? I'd love any suggestions!! Besides that, the last owner never fixed the recalls on it, so we had to do that and both of our mirrors fell off, we replaced those, we replaced the whole rear suspension too and some computer chips. Once we figure out why it is so finicky it'll be in great shape. :confuse:
My 2004 Echo has been underwater up to the steering whheel. when the ignition key is turned ON , each of the spark plugs only fire once. If the key is turned OFF , the plugs will fire once again when the key is turned on again. So if Aerostart or petrol is sprayed into the throttle body, during the attempt to start, it is unsuccessful, and only sputters once and stops.
I don't know what the problem could be I went into the store and came back out now my truck will not start the engine will not turn over. All the lights and radio come on but it will not start. I also herr a click under the hood next to the fuse box when I turn the key, someone mentioned that there could be an issue with the factory alarm system. I tried my spare key and a copy I has made nothing worked any idea what could be wrong?
squidly2, you believe you have a start problem.... Ok, lets assume that your vehicle does have a start problem, instead of us trying to list all the possible symptoms perhaps it would work better if you tell us the symptoms you have. Someone here then can probably figure out what direction for you to go to resolve the problem.
replaced bosch platinum sparks to autolite double patinum plugs ran but rough and missfired later read the firing order backwards and changed the wires on the distibutor cap tried to start her up and cranked a few times then made a weird whine sound and the lights dimmed. What did my dumbass do.
Hi I'm Garry and I have an 95 plymouth voyager with a 4 cyl, and automatic my wife was driving it and she told me that it started losing power so she pulled off the road and shut it off and then it would not start again. I checked for fire and ultimetly found that there is no power going to the coil. I checked all the relays and fuses,all good. Any one have any thoughts let me know.
Driving around town the other day and while making a turn the engine dies on me. I didn't really even notice it at first but quickly did when it was extremely difficult to turn. No check engine light (or any other light) came on prior, just when it died.
The car has 152,000 miles on it. The starter had been replaced about 8 months ago (and I don't think its the problem). I can put the key in the ignition and turn it and the lights, bells and whistles inside come on. Then I can go to the next point and the engine tries to start but the "fire" part is missing (hence it won't start).
I hate to just start replacing things, but don't have a clue were to start. I was looking for a used car to replace it so at this point me screwing it up is not a big deal (the value of my car is pretty much junk yard, so if I blow it up who cares, lol)
My 2002 Impala has just begun a very annoying problem. Three times now over the past 2 weeks I have tried to start it and it acts like no power is going to the starter. No clicks like a dead battery, nothing... The radio plays, all electronics come on inside the car, but it will not even attempt to start. Each time, while waiting for the towing service I have continued to try to start it and it finally starts. I have taken it to the dealer twice now. First time, they replaced the battery and the car started fine for two weeks, then stranded me again yesterday... Same problem. After more diagnostics at the dealer today they now say that they don't know how to fix it because they can't duplicate the problem. Has anyone else had the same problem and figured it out?
i have a 95 jimmy was in garage had heads rebuilt and just about everything replaced now we found that fuel pump was shot. now we pelaced fuel pump and still won't start. any ideas please e-mail me at jeberly11903@yahoo.com thankyou
I have a 93 lumina z34 with a 3.4l. On my way home the car started missing at a red light and then just died. I checked to see if its getting gas and it is. The spark is a orange color instead of a nice blue, so I replaced the wires and plugs and the same thing happens. When I try to start it, it fires once and then just turns over and nothing else. I also replaced the coil pack and module and same thing, Fires once and thats it. Someone told me the timing belt might have jumped. If this is true would the car backfire or pop or something instead of just turning over? Any help would be greatful. Thanks Bill
Comments
I'd believe the car rather than the scanner in this case.
What can I do to fix this? Help!
I have a 1991 Ford F150 XLT Lariat. Yesterday the truck, which has been very dependable, would not start. There were no lights or gauges working. The battery was tested and replaced. The truck started and then died after about 30 seconds. Same thing a second time. This morning I went out to start and no lights or movement of gauges. I tried to cross the celinoid and there were no sparks. Could someone please help me? Thank you very much. Mike
New here. If there's a better place to post this please let me know.
THE PROBLEM: WHEN THE GEAR SELECTOR IS IN PARK POSITION AND THE KEY IS TURNED TO THE START POSITION OCCASIONALLY THE S3 LIGHT FLASHES. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE CAR WILL NOT CRANK AT ALL. YOU CAN TRY TO START IT BUT IT WILL NOT CRANK. IT WILL SPIN OVER AND IT IS GETTING A GOOD CONNECTION WITH THE BATTERY. I'VE NOTICE IT REALLY ACTS UP DURING THE HOT SUMMER MONTH . WHEN IT IS COLD THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH IT. WHEN THE P ON THE DISPLAY IS LIT UP AND THE S3 IS NOT IT WILL CRANK BUT SOMETIMES IT WILL DIED AND THE S3 LIGHT WILL START TO BLINK. IS THERE ANY BODY THAT CAN HELP ME PLEASE PLEASE P.S. I HAD THE COMPUTER AND THE TRANSMISSION BOX CHECK AND EVERYTHING IS OKAY.
I put a crank position sensor on it as well. when that didn't work I rented a code reader from local parts store. The code reader could not establish a link to the computer. there is no check engine light on, on the dash so I have no clue about codes that may be present. I re checked all fuses and most connections for corrosion and found nothing so far.
Have you checked your battery cables for corrosion? Have you shifted the automatic transmission in and out of gear?
When you say turn over for 3 seconds, you mean starts. The engine actually fires and it is going. BUT it quits after like 3 secs. Also it will do so on successive attempts. And after around 4 trys, it does nothing. Then after several hours or days it will work fine again.
It is not the starter! After the 4th try and it stops turning over when you turn the key, You can apply voltage to the starter solenoid and the starter will crank away.
It does not appear to be the starter relay although it may check good and still not work. Mine checks out good.
Did yours ever get fixed? If so, what was the problem? Thanks.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Anyway, now that our warranty just ran up it seems like it's getting way worse. We're having to pump starting fluid into that truck like two or three times a week just to get it to turn over. Also, now it's stalling a little before it cranks over every time we turn it on. I can tell whatever is wrong with it is getting ready to go out completely very soon. Of course it doesn't happen until the warranty is up though.
Any clues, guys? I'd love any suggestions!!
Besides that, the last owner never fixed the recalls on it, so we had to do that and both of our mirrors fell off, we replaced those, we replaced the whole rear suspension too and some computer chips. Once we figure out why it is so finicky it'll be in great shape. :confuse:
Ok, lets assume that your vehicle does have a start problem, instead of us trying to list all the possible symptoms perhaps it would work better if you tell us the symptoms you have. Someone here then can probably figure out what direction for you to go to resolve the problem.
Thanks,
Garry
The car has 152,000 miles on it. The starter had been replaced about 8 months ago (and I don't think its the problem). I can put the key in the ignition and turn it and the lights, bells and whistles inside come on. Then I can go to the next point and the engine tries to start but the "fire" part is missing (hence it won't start).
I hate to just start replacing things, but don't have a clue were to start. I was looking for a used car to replace it so at this point me screwing it up is not a big deal (the value of my car is pretty much junk yard, so if I blow it up who cares, lol)
Thanks in advance.
I don't have access to it, but maybe someone else here does and could look it up for you.
Thanks Bill