Is the starter motor engaged and turning the engine, and the engine doesn't fire up and run? or ... does the starter not engage (ie, no click, no starter grind)
The starter is engaging and the engine is turning. The garage said that fuel is getting to the injector's but the firing voltage is there but not enough to start the engine. They think it's again some type of short in the wiring. but I think it's a problem with some type on relay or ignition part.
Hi. My good friend has a Versa which he loves, except for one thing. Every so often he turns the key and NOTHING happens..no lights, no engine turnover...nothing. If he gets out of the car and shakes the vehicle it will then start (sometimes he has to repeat the shaking routine a few times). Any thoughts on this would be appreiciated.
the truck ran fine.went to start it next day and nothing! can hear fuel pump. lights are on, radio, instr. panel all have power, 6 month old battery.push started in2nd gear with clutch in and popped clutch and hit gas and truck started. drove home fine, went to start a half hour later, nothing, again! Help? coil? module?
its a 3.1 carb (orginally it was fuel injected but the prevous owner put a new engine in a carburated one) i started my car and it ran for 5 secs then died out. wasnt started after that! checked for spark it was there. so then i put thought its the fuel so i put some gas on my carb and it started for like a couple secs. so i figuered fuel pump but i checked that took off the fuel line and gas it spitting out when starting. what can my problem be. Please HELP I DONT KNOW WHAT IT CAN BE>
I drove my achieva one day and it was fine then the next morning I tried starting it and it turns over real good but does not start.Also the security light is on constantly now.Any help would be appreciated.
I took my car in for a state inspection and it failed because when in reverse, the tail light (on the trunk door) reverse indicators do not light up. I checked the bulbs and they seems to be fine. any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem? Thanks.
The power to those reverse lights, comes initially from the 10A Gauge fuse, then to a switch on the transmission which senses that it is in reverse, then to the lights.
You can check the fuse but you'd probably would have noticed other things not working if the fuse were bad, so I would suspect the transmission switch.
My 6 cyl. 2000 Saturn starts fine when when it has sat over night, but after I drive it and shut it off for just a short time, it will not start. If I wait a while for it to cool (an hour on average), it will start okay. The tempature gauge never shows it is over heating, and the battery is new. What should I check? Could it be a tempature sensor? Please help!!!
Since this is the only forum close to what my problem is, here goes. The ignition is locked in the forward "power" position. I cannot get it to turn back to off, or anything else. Being that when its in this position I can take the keys out, there isnt a huge problem, but there is, b/c I cant turn the engine off. The only way I can is by stalling it. I can turn the ignition forward to start it, and sometimes if its forward it will unlock and I can turn it off, but I havent been able to since last night. The unlock lever will move a bit but not enough to release the ignition. Whats the problem, and how do I fix it?
The switch for the ignition is down toward the bottom of the colum, there is a rod that goes from the key switch/lock cylinder to the switch. If the rod is binding, then that may be the problem.
The quick check is to unbolt the ignition switch and operate the key. If the key moves freely then, then the switch may be the problem.
NOTE: Before you unbolt the ignition switch, mark it on the column, as it is slotted and if it isn't the problem, you will want to have it in the same position. Also, it is possible that you may have to unbolt the column and drop it down. If you do and if it is a column shift, then there may be a shift indicator cable on that vehicle that you will want to be very careful with.
I suspect that either the ignition switch at the bottom of the column has broken or the ignition lock "bale" in the column may have broken. Hope for the switch.
hey there I am new here and could not find a way to make a new topic but heres my problem Toyota Camry 1995
after a rain my brother went in to a puddle and the next day the car would not start it would make one sound a "tut" sound and nothing happens, the battery is fine, my dad even changed the starter and still did not solve it, once i turn the key to start the car it felt like it one of the cranks are stuck or something, do any of you guys have a solution or give me advice
How deep was the puddle? couple inches, or a couple feet? Trying to understand whether it had water 'splashed' on it, or whether the engine ended up consuming water.
Did the engine stall/stop instantly, or continue running but is running poorly?
the puddle wasn't that deep and they got home with out a problem and i even drove it late at night then the next morning when my brother tried to start the car it made one loud sound and it did not start, the puddle was less than a foot
Ok, not much info to go by here. Car won't start. That could mean a dozen different things. Does it crank over? If it doesn't crank over, does it click? Is there a voltage guage on the dash? If so, what does it say the voltage is at? If it does crank over, does it crank over normally, faster or slower than usual?
YOU need to supply us the information, so we can help you. Us not knowing exactly what the problem is, we can make a thousand guesses and be wrong. With the information, then we can start to make educated guesses. So, help us out here.
I'm speculating that the loud noise was/is your real problem, and coincidentally occurred after you had gone thru a puddle. If you didn't go really deep water to suck into the engine, then the concern would be splashed water on electrical components (which are normally fairly well covered anyhow, but would not do well in a dunking). Nothing shorted out and you drove home, and then drove it later that evening.
:mad: :confuse: engine turns over ,starts and then:- dies immidiatly chugs for a few secs then dies chugs for a few secs dies the moment i press gas peddal.
in all scenarios the motor fires up but dies hinting (i think) to a fuel problem. any help very much appreciated. can anyone tell me where fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are located. once again any help needed and appreciated.
I have a 95 2.3L millinia. We have tried all we can think of to get the thing started. When it died it sounded like it ran out of gas. Sputtering. Hasent started since. I have replaced the fuel pump and relay. Still nothing. I checked the spark and it looks like its good, Large and white. NOT BLUE like im used to. Plugs are alwayse wet when we pull them out now. Im suspecting an o2 censor. Would this cause the car not to start? Or a cloged cat? Please help. Any suggestions will be greatly appriciated.
We replaced the plugs this morning. Still nothing. Poped a few times but thats it. the diagnostic said the cat is running at 1.4%. Is it possible that that will cause it not to start? If so can we take it off? Were lost and running out of options. Thank you for your reply. Also where is the inertia switch?
the diagnostic said the cat is running at 1.4%. What diagnostics? How did you check it?
Is it possible that that will cause it not to start? Uh yeah. If the diagnostics you ran is accurate, then 1.4% is plugged.
If so can we take it off? You can disconnect the cat for diagnostic purposes, but you cannot remove the cat, as that would be a violation of federal emissions laws.
Some times, i am not able to start the car. After turning the key, it just chuckles. I am able to start after couple of attempts. I am not able to replicate this. I can see batter indicator on. I even did run it though service man when i went to change my timing belt. They said, they have cleaned some wire which is connected to batter. Everything is ok. In their report, they said battery is very good. Do you think, i need to turn the key fast for engine to start. Do you have any idea.
If you are still on your original battery, it would be at end-of-life. A Battery will typically last about 4 years, and it sounds like you had corrosion on the battery terminal already.
If it was me, I'd be replacing the battery before winter.
Hi Kaiwah, Thanks for your replay. When i first ran into this problem,i took it to local mechanic who changed the battery and screwed my window regulator. Immediately, i took it to Huyndai service man. They replaced the regulator.
This problem popped up again and this time i directly went to Hyundai service dealer where they cleaned the corroded terminal and they said everything is ok.
Now, again this problem is happening some times. Do you think, something wrong with the battery? Is it going to be something very expensive.
Could be bad cables as well. They can corrode internally. You see corrosion on the battery post but it could be all the way up the cable, inside the sheath. I'd clean all connections and then replace (or at least very carefully inspect) both cables on both ends, and see how that works.
Hi, Thanks for the reply. I could not find out the local mechanic who replaced the battery few months back. Would like to run through the Hyundai servicemen to check for cables. Do you guys knows any other place where they can quickly check cables and battery?
By chuckles, I can only imagine that you mean that it sounds like it chatters or growls?
If so, then it is a pretty good chance that the starter solenoid is going bad. The starter should be tested to see if is drawing too much, but I suspect there is a burnt spot on the solenoid contact.
I have replaced a few starters on the 2.5L engines, because of failure.
Hi 0patience and kiawah, I took to Walmart guy in tire/lube section. He also thinks that it is starter.According to him, It might be as simple as something like a loose contact in starter or replacing a Starter. He verified that battery and alternator are good. He suggested me to go to pep boys, sears or some other store instead of hyundai service guy.
How much it will cost to replace starter? Do i need to replace it immediately. Can i run the car for some more time and fix it? It happens once in a while. It starter after a couple of tries. Do i need to go to hyundai service station only?
If it is the V-6, then the starter can run upwards of $350. Napa sells reman starters for your vehicle around $200, but you gets what you pay for. And the labor is less than an hour to replace.
If it were me and I planned on keeping the vehicle, I would go for a premium remanufactured starter.
As far as going to a Hyundai dealer, if the vehicle is still under warranty, then definitely go there. If the warranty is up, then use what ever shop you choose. Really isn't any reason why you should have to go to the dealer if you choose not to. The starter replacement and diagnosis is a simple one.
Hi, It is happening in once in a while. Can i live with this problem for couple of more months. Just spent around $400 to replace the timing belt. I am planning keep this vehicle for 1 more year. I am ok with cheap starters which run for more than a year. Can i replace the starter for less than $200. What are the places other than Pep boys? Can i get premium re manufactured ones for less? Do i need to ask for these in Pep boys. Sorry for lot of questions. This vehicle started giving me problems one after another.
Can i live with this problem for couple of more months. Without hearing exactly what it is doing, that is a hard judgement to make. The problem is, it will eventually fail completely. So the question would be, do you have tow insurance or AAA towing?
Can i replace the starter for less than $200. Possibly, you might find an aftermarket reman unit for less than $200, but that is abou the range they run.
What are the places other than Pep boys? NAPA, Carquest, Autozone and many others. Check your yellow pages for auto parts.
Can i get premium re manufactured ones for less? Doubtfully. Most premium starters for your vehicle are in the $250+ range.
Do i need to ask for these in Pep boys. Just ask what your options for a starter are. To be honest, the major "discount" parts stores like that aren't my favorite places for electrical parts, like starters and alternators.
Since you are looking for options for less expensive ways to go, there is the possibility that you can pull the starter yourself and take it to an automotive electrical repair place and have them repair the starter.
Hi, Thanks for your reply. It is working fine for last 4 days. It happens once in a while. I will start checking with auto part stores meanwhile to figure out the price. Is it ok to go with after market reman unit which is less than $200. Will it run for at lest a year or two. I have a insurance for towing. But, i still do not want to struck some where with the family. Would like to fix the problem in 2-3 weeks.
Is it ok to go with after market reman unit which is less than $200. Of course it isn't ok to go with a cheap unit. I will never recommend a cheap unit.
Will it run for at lest a year or two. Yes, it probably will. Generally, I see the cheapy brands go about 2 years before they fail.
If you are trying to save money, which I know that we all are, another possibility is to check and see if local wrecking/salvage yards have a "take out" starter or your model vehicle that you can take the starter out of. If doing the work isn't an issue, then you may be able to get a used one really cheap. But remember, the life expectancy of it won't be very long.
the problem we have with our 1994 yukon is as follows:
My wife was trying to shut the truck off at the local hardware store and it wouldn't shift out of drive..the key was also locked in position and wouldn't turn to off (or accy)either. She managed to get it home and I had to pull an ignition fuse to shut the truck off.As it sits the ignition key is locked in the on position and I managed to work the colum shift back into park but it doesnt seem to have the "locking sections" when you travel through P R N D L anymore.The truck is shut down now with the battery disconnected. I know this isn't a starting issue persay, but seeing as it was the closest related forum I can find I hope someone can shed some light on this for us..Very much appreciated! matt
Was the tilt wheel a little loose? More than likely, it was and the screws that held it are gone. Either that or the linkage for the ignition switch has broken off in there.
Either way, the upper steering column will have to come apart to see what the problem is.
thank you 0patience for your quick reply! actaully the tilt has been and is still fine. Moves freely and locks at its appropriate positions. I hope to get further than the lock plate on it tommorrow when the rains let up..thanks again
I strongly suggest a good manual (or AlldataDIY) and a lockplate removal tool is about $20 from the parts store. I would suggest investing in it, as it makes things loads easier.
I have a 99 Hyundai Elantra. Driving about 75 mph on the highway, engine starts losing power as if it was overheating. Engine dies and I slow down and stop completely, smoke starts coming out of hood. Wait half hour, then hour, then two then three. Engine won't start, starter just spins. Thought I snapped a timing belt because it was due to be replaced. Opened her up and it was not the case. Stopped right there to further diagnose problem. Help!
What was the temperature guage telling you? Is there coolant in the radiator? Has some symptoms like it seriously overheated, the smoke. Could be out of coolant, could be water pump went bad.
So the situation now is that the starter engages and spins the engine, but it won't start?
Sounds like classic symptoms of a plugged cat, but when you say the starter just spins, do you mean the engine cranks or it doesn't crank even though the starter spins?
Did you check the oil?
How mechanically inclined are you? If very mechanical, then you can unbolt the flange at the front of the cat, stick a steel wedge in the flange to open it up [carefully, so not to damage the gasket and be aware that exhaust parts are hot] and see if the vehicle starts. If it starts up fine, then the cat is plugged. DO NOT run very long, as there is a fire potential with the flange opened.
If it still doesn't start, then you'll need to start looking at compression and see what the compression is on each cylinder.
HI I have a ford aspire 97; I just got this car and it is going haywire on me. the car will not start; everything else works but the car will not kick over; the radio;lights; air; heat, everything. I've been told it could be the starter or the alternator ( not sure if I spelled that right) can someone help me out here. :confuse:
Comments
You can check the fuse but you'd probably would have noticed other things not working if the fuse were bad, so I would suspect the transmission switch.
:sick:
1999BackupSwitch
Please help!!!
Once you have the trouble code, then you can start the diagnostic procedure to determine which direction to go.
The quick check is to unbolt the ignition switch and operate the key. If the key moves freely then, then the switch may be the problem.
NOTE: Before you unbolt the ignition switch, mark it on the column, as it is slotted and if it isn't the problem, you will want to have it in the same position.
Also, it is possible that you may have to unbolt the column and drop it down. If you do and if it is a column shift, then there may be a shift indicator cable on that vehicle that you will want to be very careful with.
I suspect that either the ignition switch at the bottom of the column has broken or the ignition lock "bale" in the column may have broken. Hope for the switch.
Toyota Camry 1995
after a rain my brother went in to a puddle and the next day the car would not start it would make one sound a "tut" sound and nothing happens, the battery is fine, my dad even changed the starter and still did not solve it, once i turn the key to start the car it felt like it one of the cranks are stuck or something,
do any of you guys have a solution or give me advice
Did the engine stall/stop instantly, or continue running but is running poorly?
Car won't start. That could mean a dozen different things.
Does it crank over?
If it doesn't crank over, does it click?
Is there a voltage guage on the dash? If so, what does it say the voltage is at?
If it does crank over, does it crank over normally, faster or slower than usual?
YOU need to supply us the information, so we can help you. Us not knowing exactly what the problem is, we can make a thousand guesses and be wrong.
With the information, then we can start to make educated guesses. So, help us out here.
I personally doubt water is your problem.
dies immidiatly
chugs for a few secs then dies
chugs for a few secs dies the moment i press gas peddal.
in all scenarios the motor fires up but dies hinting (i think) to a fuel problem.
any help very much appreciated.
can anyone tell me where fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are located.
once again any help needed and appreciated.
Fuel pressure will need to be checked.
It's possible the cat is plugged. Hard to tell from here.
No, an O2 sensor would not cause the car not to start.
Why do folks want to always condemn the O2 sensors??
What diagnostics? How did you check it?
Is it possible that that will cause it not to start?
Uh yeah.
If the diagnostics you ran is accurate, then 1.4% is plugged.
If so can we take it off?
You can disconnect the cat for diagnostic purposes, but you cannot remove the cat, as that would be a violation of federal emissions laws.
I even did run it though service man when i went to change my timing belt. They said, they have cleaned some wire which is connected to batter. Everything is ok. In their report, they said battery is very good.
Do you think, i need to turn the key fast for engine to start. Do you have any idea.
If it was me, I'd be replacing the battery before winter.
Thanks for your replay.
When i first ran into this problem,i took it to local mechanic who changed the battery and screwed my window regulator.
Immediately, i took it to Huyndai service man. They replaced the regulator.
This problem popped up again and this time i directly went to Hyundai service dealer where they cleaned the corroded terminal and they said everything is ok.
Now, again this problem is happening some times. Do you think, something wrong with the battery? Is it going to be something very expensive.
Thanks for the reply. I could not find out the local mechanic who replaced the battery few months back. Would like to run through the Hyundai servicemen to check for cables. Do you guys knows any other place where they can quickly check cables and battery?
If so, then it is a pretty good chance that the starter solenoid is going bad.
The starter should be tested to see if is drawing too much, but I suspect there is a burnt spot on the solenoid contact.
I have replaced a few starters on the 2.5L engines, because of failure.
I took to Walmart guy in tire/lube section. He also thinks that it is starter.According to him, It might be as simple as something like a loose contact in starter or replacing a Starter. He verified that battery and alternator are good. He suggested me to go to pep boys, sears or some other store instead of hyundai service guy.
How much it will cost to replace starter? Do i need to replace it immediately. Can i run the car for some more time and fix it? It happens once in a while. It starter after a couple of tries. Do i need to go to hyundai service station only?
Thanks for your replies.
Napa sells reman starters for your vehicle around $200, but you gets what you pay for.
And the labor is less than an hour to replace.
If it were me and I planned on keeping the vehicle, I would go for a premium remanufactured starter.
As far as going to a Hyundai dealer, if the vehicle is still under warranty, then definitely go there.
If the warranty is up, then use what ever shop you choose.
Really isn't any reason why you should have to go to the dealer if you choose not to. The starter replacement and diagnosis is a simple one.
It is happening in once in a while. Can i live with this problem for couple of more months. Just spent around $400 to replace the timing belt.
I am planning keep this vehicle for 1 more year. I am ok with cheap starters which run for more than a year. Can i replace the starter for less than $200.
What are the places other than Pep boys? Can i get premium re manufactured ones for less? Do i need to ask for these in Pep boys.
Sorry for lot of questions. This vehicle started giving me problems one after another.
Without hearing exactly what it is doing, that is a hard judgement to make. The problem is, it will eventually fail completely. So the question would be, do you have tow insurance or AAA towing?
Can i replace the starter for less than $200.
Possibly, you might find an aftermarket reman unit for less than $200, but that is abou the range they run.
What are the places other than Pep boys?
NAPA, Carquest, Autozone and many others. Check your yellow pages for auto parts.
Can i get premium re manufactured ones for less?
Doubtfully. Most premium starters for your vehicle are in the $250+ range.
Do i need to ask for these in Pep boys.
Just ask what your options for a starter are.
To be honest, the major "discount" parts stores like that aren't my favorite places for electrical parts, like starters and alternators.
Since you are looking for options for less expensive ways to go, there is the possibility that you can pull the starter yourself and take it to an automotive electrical repair place and have them repair the starter.
Thanks for your reply. It is working for for last 3 days. It happens once in a while.
Thanks for your reply. It is working fine for last 4 days. It happens once in a while. I will start checking with auto part stores meanwhile to figure out the price.
Is it ok to go with after market reman unit which is less than $200. Will it run for at lest a year or two.
I have a insurance for towing. But, i still do not want to struck some where with the family. Would like to fix the problem in 2-3 weeks.
Of course it isn't ok to go with a cheap unit.
I will never recommend a cheap unit.
Will it run for at lest a year or two.
Yes, it probably will. Generally, I see the cheapy brands go about 2 years before they fail.
If you are trying to save money, which I know that we all are, another possibility is to check and see if local wrecking/salvage yards have a "take out" starter or your model vehicle that you can take the starter out of.
If doing the work isn't an issue, then you may be able to get a used one really cheap.
But remember, the life expectancy of it won't be very long.
the problem we have with our 1994 yukon is as follows:
My wife was trying to shut the truck off at the local hardware store and it wouldn't shift out of drive..the key was also locked in position and wouldn't turn to off (or accy)either. She managed to get it home and I had to pull an ignition fuse to shut the truck off.As it sits the ignition key is locked in the on position and I managed to work the colum shift back into park but it doesnt seem to have the "locking sections" when you travel through P R N D L anymore.The truck is shut down now with the battery disconnected. I know this isn't a starting issue persay, but seeing as it was the closest related forum I can find I hope someone can shed some light on this for us..Very much appreciated!
matt
Was the tilt wheel a little loose?
More than likely, it was and the screws that held it are gone.
Either that or the linkage for the ignition switch has broken off in there.
Either way, the upper steering column will have to come apart to see what the problem is.
So the situation now is that the starter engages and spins the engine, but it won't start?
Did you check the oil?
How mechanically inclined are you?
If very mechanical, then you can unbolt the flange at the front of the cat, stick a steel wedge in the flange to open it up [carefully, so not to damage the gasket and be aware that exhaust parts are hot] and see if the vehicle starts. If it starts up fine, then the cat is plugged. DO NOT run very long, as there is a fire potential with the flange opened.
If it still doesn't start, then you'll need to start looking at compression and see what the compression is on each cylinder.
Let us know what you find.
I have a ford aspire 97; I just got this car and it is going haywire on me. the car will not start; everything else works but the car will not kick over; the radio;lights; air; heat, everything. I've been told it could be the starter or the alternator ( not sure if I spelled that right) can someone help me out here. :confuse: