"No Start" Problems

upriverjoe

can you use a analog voltmeter to do diagnostics on a 96' 2.4 stratus? if so, how?? my stratus just stopped running!!! no no engine trouble light comes on, it turns over and sounds like it wants to start but won't?????????replaced timing belt about 500 miles ago and just replaced coil. my tach seemed to quit working just before it stalled???? any and all help will be appreciated

erischaos

I'm having some problems with my 99' blazer :confuse: it will crank but it won't turn over. i've changed out the plugs, roter,fuel filter, igniton coil, and alot of other crap but i've narrowed it down to 1 of 2 things :surprise: either the mass air flow sensor or the fuel pump I have no idea what else it could be if you have any idea please HELP! i'm ready to just blow the damn car up :mad:

vipul747

I have a 91 toyota camry. Ii didn't start. Battery was ok. I try to jump start, Didn't start. I tried after three days and it started. It worked for a two days. Now all of a sudden is not starting.

wrecks13

This motor won't start. My son said he was sitting at a light and the motor just died. It backfires through the intake occasionally when attempting to start. Crank and cam timing seem ok, although compression seems low. The crank position sensor and intake water sensor Ohm out ok. Get a code 23 from the computer but my book doesn't show that code. Any ideas?

Mr_Shiftright

oh....backfire not a good sign...what's "low" compression mean? How low? And in how many cylinders?

wrecks13

Low is ~ 130 PSI on one and ~ 90 PSI on the others but it is not always consistent. From what I've read 195 is normal but that seems high to me. I thought for sure it was going to be a bad timing chain or something but valve closed @ TDC seem to be where they should be. After talking more with my son he says he had to replace the HDLP fuse shortly before it stopped running. Not sure what that fuse is for. I suppose it could be a blown head gasket but I've never seen one just go suddenly and stop the car.

Mr_Shiftright

Well you know it's back to basics...testing for spark, fuel pressure in the rail, impulse to the injectors, blah blah....if all that is good, you'd have to do a cylinder leakdown test I think. I agree, a bad head gasket doesn't stop a car just like that. Could be something simple as a crank sensor, dunno.

wrecks13

Don't suppose you know what that code 23 is? I ohmed out the crank sensor and it was within the tolerances listed in my manual. I have noticed a few other postings talking about the sensor, is this a common failure item? Also, I was wondering about the coil packs that feed the plugs, is that module the one that controls timing with the crank position sensor? I sure miss good old distributors!

Mr_Shiftright

You're gonna need the workshop manual for that level of diagnosis. I don't know your car and hesitate to tell you to start hooking up wires and meters...

Yeah, crank sensors are a common failure it seems, on many domestics...by common of course I mean that small percentage....I'm always suspicious of it because it's such a key link to the rest of the system. No crank pulse, no nuttin'.

erzhang

I have a 2000 nissan. It shakes a lot and then shuts off shortly after I start it. I took it to a garage, the guy there replaced the sparker plug but the problem remain unsolved!! Does anyone have some useful information? Thanks a lot!

wingman6

My explr was a hand me down, there is a problem starting it up. Some days it cranks and other days it does not. When it doesn't crank i hear a clicking at the starter switch, lights and every thing works but some times it dims. replaced the starter switch, it turned over and i thought i was done. When i shut her down and tried re starting it and the starter switch just clicked away and it didn't start up again. It takes a jump with no problem, drive to work and then after work it does the same thing. I had the batt tested at sears they said it was still good. it is 6 yrs old though??? Where should i start new batt,starter,alt ? also i live in mass so it has been extremely cold i dont know if this may be a factor or not. If any one can help plz & thx

lajas

Please please please tell me you found the answer to your problem. I bought an 02 impala about 6 months ago and it leaves me stranded all the time. No one seems to understand the cause. It happens when I least expect it, although, the good news is...it always starts after about 20 minutes. Not good when you have clients in the car. The used car dealer took it back for a week and couldn't do anything because it started fine for them. I DON"T KNOW WHAT TO DO! Please help...lajasjd@aol.com

nanner1

i have 2004 dodge stratus, went out to start it this morning but won't start. it sounds like it wants to or about to but never does. all the lights and windsheild wipers work and all. i've even tried jumping it, just in case if it didn't have enough juice to start it and nothing.

andrushka

Hey, my uncle has Suzuki Swift 1.0 and has exactly the same problem. If you by any chance have fixed your car and know the problem please let me know. Would reeeeeeeaally appreciate it. Thanks .

Kirstie_H

A reporter with a national newspaper is hoping to talk with consumers who have had issues with their batteries going dead for unexplained reasons. Please reply to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, March 13, 2007 with your daytime contact info.

auto_guy

i have a 1993 nissan altima gxe. I put the key in the ignition but it would not start but the headlights and radio still work. does anybody have any suggestions?

fastfirebird

I have a no crank or start on a 91 Lincoln. The battery is new. If i turn the ignition on the radio and such come on but no crank. Before when it would do this I could shift it into neutral and it would start. but now that isn't working. And now I have to have the key in between crank and off to be able to shift it out of park. Any thoughts??

sjhughes

I have a 99 4runner that was able to turn over but the engine began losing power and would then turn off. After a few tries I statrted it again and reved it for about 30 sec. and it stayed on and I was able to drive it. I let it sit for about 4 hours and was able to start it with no problems. Any Ideas?

allchevyjim

My 1995 Yukon died in traffic; had it towed to house. I tried to start and it cranks and tries to fire but dies. I suspected ignition problems. This morning I tried to crank and battery was dead. I used a jumper battery and when I turned the key to on position I saw visible smoke in passenger compartment. I turned off the ignition and smoking stopped. I am puzzled now. Can ignition problems such as hardware failure such as shorted coil or ignition module cause a drain on battery with key off and a dead short with key on? Where would I start to diagnose this problem? Check coil and pickup or should I check the wiring under dash/inside steering column to assure no burned insulation?

kiawah

Hmm...this is going to be a little difficult. What I would do is smell around and see if you can figure out exactly what 'thing' smells burnt. I also would pull each fuse, verify that it is either good or bad, and make sure that the fuse that is in each position is correctly rated for the circuit. The reason this is important, is that if you have a 15amp circuit, the wiring is rated to handle slightly more than 15amp, and the fuse will blow before the wiring is burnt. If you have a 20amp fuse in a 15amp circuit, then it's conceivable that the wiring on that circuit might be burnt before the fuse ever blew.

If nobody messed with the fuses and they are all correct, then the smoke probably came from a device rather than the wiring itself (like perhaps the coil in a relay). Something burnt to make smoke, should continue to smell...so hopefully your nose can get you into the right area.

If you have an electrical schematic it would help. If you find something burnt, smelly, or melted, then pull the fuse for that whole circuit. Depending what it is, it then might be obvious why the vehicle isn't running anymore.

Good luck.

allchevyjim

I charged the battery, took out a spark plug and grounded it and it produces a spark. I found no blown fuses anywhere. I did notice that the fuel pump was not operating and I noticed the relay not clicking with a noticeable sound as it should. I removed the relay and disassembled the cover and it looked like the coil had a burned look to it and it might have been the source of the earlier mentioned smoke. The relay was not working as it should when I placed it back in the socket and keyed the ignition switch. I went to auto store and bought a new relay and plugged it in. This one worked better and it clicks audibly when the key is put in the on position. I am noticing the fuel pump not whirring inside the tank. I am beginning to suspect a fuel pump inoperative. I had replaced the fuel pump several years ago and am surprised it is not operating already. Could the pump have been damaged by an inoperative relay or vice versa? I guess I will be taking down the tank again when the weather gets warmer.

kiawah

A bad or failing relay, could have symptoms that the downstream controlled device (the fuel pump) doesn't work. Relay's normally fail in one of two ways. Either the coil is weak or failed completely, in which case it isn't strong enough to pull the relay points together (relay could never work, or intermittently fail)....or the coil side would be good but the relay points could get pitted and burnt and not make a good low resistance connection for the fuel pump. So either of these would create a situation where there isn't good power to the fuel pump, and the fuel pump doesn't work.

However, it is also possible that the fuel pump becomes bad and draws too much current (as in a short circuit). Too much amperage draw will burn or pit the relay points in the relay.

Don't know what symptoms you had on your original fuel pump failure. But could be that your original failure also damaged the relay.

allchevyjim

Actually the earlier problem I was having was the 20 amp mini ECM-B fuse was blowing erratically for several weeks and I decided to replace the fuel pump only because it was on this circuit and my vehicle was 200K + miles and I felt it was a good preventive maintenance move in order to resolve this electrical gremlin which I never really figured out. (the fuse blew after I had replaced the pump by the way). I was throwing parts at it out of desperation. The problem resolved itself! I don't believe I replaced the relay so it might have been the problem back then.

allchevyjim

Just a note to explain how I solved the problem. I was puzzled because my relay was functioning and there was battery voltage at the fuel pump terminal of the relay. I pulled the grey (fuel pump)wire out of the harness under the truck and found that it had no battery voltage when it should have had it (key on). I back traced to the wire coming from the fuse box and it had voltage. The only thing between the two points I tested was a connector down under the brake power booster (in the most inaccessible place imaginable). After fiddling with the connector a few minutes to disconnect it, I could not and I gave up and decided to wire around the connector using a length of wire and two splice connectors. When I turned the key on the pump cycled and when I tried to start the truck started. Since I did not disconnect the harness connector I am suspecting that the connection to the fuel pump is either high resistance or completely open.

The truck starts and runs. Anyone think that I should be concerned about the fault at the connector? The fuel pump is still protected by a fuse.

kiawah

Unless you fix the problem, it will be back and could leave you stranded. You've got a really good idea where the problem most likely is, get the connector apart and check whether there is corrosion on either the connectors or the wire where it connects to the connector spade.

allchevyjim

I do not understand the basis for your suggestion that the problem could recur. I have a nearly perfect circuit by re-routing around the connector. I could actually cut the grey wire going into the connector and it would be a complete circuit without a harness connector (but it would have of course the two splice connectors on either side of and by-passing the harness connector). If there was a short to ground at the connector there might be a problem I suppose, but if there was that problem to begin with then perhaps the connector is burned so there is an open circuit. If there is a high resistance circuit through the connector due to corrosion I think the effective resistance is nearly zero since the new wire is essentially zero resistance in parallel with a very high resistance. Is my logic messed up?

kiawah

Sorry, I misread your note. I thought I read you were going to wire around it, but then it started working. If you've wired around the connector, then you should be good to go (assuming you never have to unplug the connector).

allchevyjim

I probably used too many words to explain what I did, but I wanted to include why I did it this way. I would have preferred to disconnect the connector and determine why it was failed open. I suspect it was corroded but it would have been nice to verify that and actually try to clean and reuse the connector. After thinking about how tough this would be because of where the connector was located and how much trouble I'd be in if I broke the connector, I chickened out and took the easier route to just wire across the connector. Thanks for bearing with me on this problem resolution. I don't know that I have ever experienced a connector problem quite like this one.

run4dollar

I have a 1997 Camry Sedan with over 180,000 miles. the keys have become old and sometimes I have trouble opening the driver side door; however I have never had any problems turning the ignition and starting the car. This morning I could not get the key to turn in the ignition. I tried manhandling the steering wheel but to no avail.

any suggestions on what could be wrong? What would the repair be and how much would it cost?

appreciate any advice.

allchevyjim

I had a Chevy truck with 200K miles that had the same problem and it resulted from metal particles shaved from the key. Once key starts to wear I suspect the wear becomes accelerated by the grit in the tumblers. At a point it gets so full of fines that it jams the key in the mechanism. I initially used brake cleaner to blow out the ignition carefully when the key started to stick occasionally. Brake cleaner can mar plastic so you might not want to use it unless you can remove the ignition mechanism tumbler. You could also try a lubricant like WD-40 to ease the key out. In any event this is probably just a temporary fix if it works at all. I eventually removed the entire ignition lock mechanism and replaced it with a new one with new key. On a Chevy this procedure and cost is fairly easy and cheap (no more than $20 as I recall). Don't know about your car but it could be more. I'd get a repair manual for your auto and look at prices in web stores sites such as Auto Zone or Advantage Auto (here in Virginia these are popular) or NAPA. Hope this helps.

terrikaye

I have a 96 acheiva that has been giving me trouble for the last few months. It started by not always trying to start when I turned the key, no click or anything. If I sat and tried it a few times it would eventually fire right up and run great while it was running but I had no guarantee that the next time I needed to start it that it would work again. It has progressively gotten worse,starting only once a week or so but still running fine once it decided to start. I can no longer drive it this way. I am thinking that the ignition switch has gone out or I have loose wires in the switch or steering column but my "part time" mechanic friend thinks it is the fuel pump. He said it would act the same way. Is there a way to test the switch first before replacing it? Thanks for your help in advance!!

kiawah

Since when you turn the key the engine isn't cranking (ie.. the starter motor isn't engaged and trying to turn the engine), not likely to be a fuel pump problem.....but a basic electrical problem.

What is supposed to happen, is that when you turn the key switch it provides 12v to the starter relay. That relay when energized, makes the 12v connection from the battery to the starter motor (which is a high current draw, thick cable). When the starter motor gets 12v, it starts turning and engages into the flywheel thereby turning the engine slowly. If the fuel pump is feeding the carb or injectors, and the spark plugs fire, the engine will rev up.

In your case, when you turn the key, you get no click. The click you would want to be hearing is the relay on the starter. That could mean that you are not getting a good 12volts from the battery (corrosion on the terminals, a failing battery, a bad switch, or a bad starter relay).

"IF" you had a click, but the starter didn't turn, then your problem could be battery terminal corrosion, bad battery, or a bad starter motor. This is not your symptoms however, since you don't get the click.

So looking at the first set of potential problems, personally I would suspect the battery and/or corrosion on the terminals. You can go to any local autoparts stores (PepBoys, AutoZone, etc) for a free battery and alternator check. If those were okay, you could then put a voltmeter on the starter connections, checking first for 12 volts coming down from the keyswitch. It wouldn't have 12 volts on it when the key is in OFF or the ON position, but should have 12 volts when in the START position. If you have 12 volts in start position, then you know your key switch is good. If you still don't have a click, then your starter relay is bad.

Good luck.

terrikaye

Thanks for all your help!!

ndoyle

same problem any answers?

gotigers66

I have a 99' Alero, 3.1 and the first thing that happned was about a week ago, it wouldn't start. My wife had it at a gas station and a guy came over to help her and said to lock and unlock the car 3 or 4 times. She did so, and it worked. The next day the car was working fine. That night I went to pick her up, and I had to do the same thing with the lock unlock thing. The following morning, I went to start it and it missed the first time. Fired up on the second try. Didn't drive it all day. That night it started up fine for her, and then she turned the car off, then went to start it again and wouldn't start. We have replaced the starter, and it worked fine for 3 or 4 starts, now we are back to square 1.

This morning it wouldn't start at all. When I turn the key it does nothing. I take the key out and all my gauges on my dash board go crazy. The needles bounce all over the place with the car turned off. I read about leaving the key on acc or on for 10-20 mins, so I tried that, nothing. But everytime I do that, my clock goes back to 1:00 the next time the battery is on. Now I am getting a click like the battery is dead.

Please help!

cfaure

I recently bought a Chevy Tracker 2000, 2.0L, automatic. I had to change the engine and found a 1999. It was changed and now it won't start. My mechanich checked everything and he can't find the problem. It could be a security problem? He checked the sensors and they seem ok. Electricity won't go to the engine. Please help!

betts16

After 12 months and a half dozen mechanics including electrical, and having every part imagineable replaced, 1986 Nisson 720 pickup with Z24I engine shuts off and will not start again until it sits quite awhile. It was GIVEN to me because the former owner went through the same thing and was tired of spending a great deal of money just as I have.
Each time I pick up the vehicle they say they found the problem and present me with a bill only to find out,'No they didn't fix the problem.' ANY GENIOUSES OUT THERE!!!!!!

Mr_Shiftright

Well they could start by diagnosing it. The trick is to test the car when it's doing the bad thing. No start? Well is there fuel? Is there proper fuel pressure? Is there a spark?

In other words, what is "going away" when you can't start it?

Sounds like they've all been throwing parts at it, guessing with your checkbook.

anyone ever done a compression test on this vehicle, and adjusted the valves?

0patience

I agree with Mr shiftright.
The only way to PROPERLY diagnose it is to find out exactly what is missing when it quits.

It will be missing one of these......
Spark, meaning power to the plugs, ignition or wiring.
Fuel, loss of fuel pressure or presence of fuel at carburator.
Has the fuel filter ever been replace?
Compression. Has anyone checked the compression?
Exhaust. Is the exhaust plugged? A plugged cat will cause similar symptoms.

Does this do this when it is warmed up or cold or both?
On corners, hills, or straight highways?
Low speeds or high speeds?

And if this is the same shop replacing the parts every time, then it is time to find a REPUTABLE shop that knows what they are doing.

betts16

Thanks guys. This is my brother-in-law's truck who is at his wits end. Several different shops has looked at it. I mentioned earlier that the former owner went through the same thing with several shops checking it out and now again a few more shops including an electrical specialty shop has looked at it. He brings it home from the shop each time with the assurance that it is fixed. Then out of nowhere it doesn't work again. It seems to happen driving along at very low speeds or after taking it short distances shutting it off and starting it back up again. I do not believe the compression has ever been checked. I will show him these replys and see if it helps him at all. With all the checking it has gone through, I'm thinking it is something simple that no one is able to come up with.

0patience

Does it die while driving or does it not start after it has been shut down.

This could help to determine some things to check.

Mr_Shiftright

If it isn't being checked at the exact MOMENT of failure then everyone's just guessing.

betts16

Both - It has happened when driving very slowly around town and at times after the engine has been shut down and try to restart soon after shutdown. Please understand it may work for a few days after the mechanics return it. Even maybe a week or more and then boom, starts shutting down again. This has been ongoing for several years now. So frustrating to have taken it to so many mechanics and still not fixing the problem. Really a mystery. I noticed there is a message from several years back on this sight. Exact same problem same vehicle. But, I did not see any response to that message.

betts16

It actually has been left at a garage for quite awhile to allow the mechanic to drive it around to see what it is doing. Again, returned saying they have fixed the problem. Over and over again this has happened. Noone can seem to find the problem. It is unreal.

Mr_Shiftright

they just don't know what they are doing I suspect. It's a car. Man built it, man can fix it.

asant89

about 3 months ago my jimmy started going through spells where it wouldnt start. i would come out a few hours later and crank it about 6 times and then it would eventually start. I've changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel injector and the starter and today i go out to turn it on and it just doesnt want to start. i have no idea what it could be !!!!!!!!! Any Ideas????????

jbodden6977

imho - if the battery connections are good (on both ends!) and it does eventually start (re your second or third try stipulation) then I would check the starter RELAY, connections to same and the ignition switch and connections.
If your only option is to pull and replace parts, start with the cheapest and most commonly failing components.
Your ignition (circuits!) have nothing to do with the starter.
I presume that you may in fact refer to the starter switch?
If so take care in the future to be specific - or we may be answering the entirely wrong question!

jbodden6977

All kinds of ideas - for many many types and models of "Jimmy" including Jimmy Carter being slow to wake up on cold mornings.
Please do yourself and others a favor by including YEAR, MAKE, MODEL.
A 19something or the other whatchacallit with dual positraction thingamabobs just does NOT do it.
Thank you.

jbodden6977

oh yeah, check air filter for dirt and run a compression check on the cylinders.
if any two cylinders are more than ten pounds difference - bad news.
Electronic ignition? Modules do go bad on occasion.
Infrequent but true.
timing? see electronic ignition.
A timing advance fault in a Chevy electronic ignition dropped my mileage to about 3 mpg (chevy schoolbus).
Tossed it and put in a points ignition.
No more tears. :P

thunderbolt5

The car started by stalling out a few times, then would not start when hot-it needed to set for a few hours. Now it just will not start at all. I had the charging system checked, days before the last time it started and they said it was ok but the battery was weak. When I could not start it, the last time, I tried replacing the battery and put two new battery terminal ends on, I replaced the fuel filter and installed a new heat sensor. but the car still will not start. NOW After two weeks, at the garage, they think there is a short somewhere. :sick: