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Yeah, crank sensors are a common failure it seems, on many domestics...by common of course I mean that small percentage....I'm always suspicious of it because it's such a key link to the rest of the system. No crank pulse, no nuttin'.
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If nobody messed with the fuses and they are all correct, then the smoke probably came from a device rather than the wiring itself (like perhaps the coil in a relay). Something burnt to make smoke, should continue to smell...so hopefully your nose can get you into the right area.
If you have an electrical schematic it would help. If you find something burnt, smelly, or melted, then pull the fuse for that whole circuit. Depending what it is, it then might be obvious why the vehicle isn't running anymore.
Good luck.
However, it is also possible that the fuel pump becomes bad and draws too much current (as in a short circuit). Too much amperage draw will burn or pit the relay points in the relay.
Don't know what symptoms you had on your original fuel pump failure. But could be that your original failure also damaged the relay.
The truck starts and runs. Anyone think that I should be concerned about the fault at the connector? The fuel pump is still protected by a fuse.
any suggestions on what could be wrong? What would the repair be and how much would it cost?
appreciate any advice.
What is supposed to happen, is that when you turn the key switch it provides 12v to the starter relay. That relay when energized, makes the 12v connection from the battery to the starter motor (which is a high current draw, thick cable). When the starter motor gets 12v, it starts turning and engages into the flywheel thereby turning the engine slowly. If the fuel pump is feeding the carb or injectors, and the spark plugs fire, the engine will rev up.
In your case, when you turn the key, you get no click. The click you would want to be hearing is the relay on the starter. That could mean that you are not getting a good 12volts from the battery (corrosion on the terminals, a failing battery, a bad switch, or a bad starter relay).
"IF" you had a click, but the starter didn't turn, then your problem could be battery terminal corrosion, bad battery, or a bad starter motor. This is not your symptoms however, since you don't get the click.
So looking at the first set of potential problems, personally I would suspect the battery and/or corrosion on the terminals. You can go to any local autoparts stores (PepBoys, AutoZone, etc) for a free battery and alternator check. If those were okay, you could then put a voltmeter on the starter connections, checking first for 12 volts coming down from the keyswitch. It wouldn't have 12 volts on it when the key is in OFF or the ON position, but should have 12 volts when in the START position. If you have 12 volts in start position, then you know your key switch is good. If you still don't have a click, then your starter relay is bad.
Good luck.
This morning it wouldn't start at all. When I turn the key it does nothing. I take the key out and all my gauges on my dash board go crazy. The needles bounce all over the place with the car turned off. I read about leaving the key on acc or on for 10-20 mins, so I tried that, nothing. But everytime I do that, my clock goes back to 1:00 the next time the battery is on. Now I am getting a click like the battery is dead.
Please help!
Each time I pick up the vehicle they say they found the problem and present me with a bill only to find out,'No they didn't fix the problem.' ANY GENIOUSES OUT THERE!!!!!!
In other words, what is "going away" when you can't start it?
Sounds like they've all been throwing parts at it, guessing with your checkbook.
anyone ever done a compression test on this vehicle, and adjusted the valves?
The only way to PROPERLY diagnose it is to find out exactly what is missing when it quits.
It will be missing one of these......
Spark, meaning power to the plugs, ignition or wiring.
Fuel, loss of fuel pressure or presence of fuel at carburator.
Has the fuel filter ever been replace?
Compression. Has anyone checked the compression?
Exhaust. Is the exhaust plugged? A plugged cat will cause similar symptoms.
Does this do this when it is warmed up or cold or both?
On corners, hills, or straight highways?
Low speeds or high speeds?
And if this is the same shop replacing the parts every time, then it is time to find a REPUTABLE shop that knows what they are doing.
This could help to determine some things to check.
If your only option is to pull and replace parts, start with the cheapest and most commonly failing components.
Your ignition (circuits!) have nothing to do with the starter.
I presume that you may in fact refer to the starter switch?
If so take care in the future to be specific - or we may be answering the entirely wrong question!
Please do yourself and others a favor by including YEAR, MAKE, MODEL.
A 19something or the other whatchacallit with dual positraction thingamabobs just does NOT do it.
Thank you.
if any two cylinders are more than ten pounds difference - bad news.
Electronic ignition? Modules do go bad on occasion.
Infrequent but true.
timing? see electronic ignition.
A timing advance fault in a Chevy electronic ignition dropped my mileage to about 3 mpg (chevy schoolbus).
Tossed it and put in a points ignition.
No more tears. :P