2003 Hyudai Sonata (62K miles) starts quickly and runs like a dream nine times out of ten. But sometimes, regardless of conditions (temp, humidity) it takes 2 or 3 extended periods of cranking to start the engine. No chugging or misfires. Once it starts, the engine runs smooth and fine. Spark plugs are new and fuel injectors have been cleaned. Air filter is in good shape and so is the battery. Any ideas? Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Oxygen sensor? --Thanks
check the crank sensor behind the starter for wires exposed or dried cracking insulation if it is a 2.7 l motor many times it causes intermittent start issues also while there check the s terminal to the starter very rarely but does happen that it has bad pin tension and can cause similar prob.
Ok where to start?? Check engine light came on, the only code was the egr valve. A few weeks later it was missing and the codes said random misfire and a few more. It only missed every now and then. Well 3 weeks ago it started jumping, jerking and missing really bad. Brought it home and it won't start at all. Replaced the coil, rotor button, dis. cap, and finally found that the belts had rubbed the crankshaft position sensor. Replaced all of this, still won't start. It's getting fire to all the plugs, and hasn't jumped time. It will turn over but won't start. The few times it has started it was very rough and won't idle, it just dies. It is getting fuel to the plugs. Oh yeah it is a Mazda Millenia 2.5L V6 1997 around 130,000 miles. The plugs were replaced too. Any Ideas??? Please help.
normally once a egr code sets followed by misfire codes the vehicle starts dumping raw fuel down the exhaust which ends up clogging the catalytic up to the point the engine cant breathe.. try backing the exhaust bolts from the manifolds down about 1/4 inch and see if the car starts if it does the catalytic converter is plugged up
I put in a rebuilt oreilly ultima starter for my 96 sunfire today. I had it tested before I left the store and it passed. Well when I put in the starter, the starter doesn't crank at all. I hear a buzzing sound. I think it has something to do with the starter wires connection. I have five wires to hook to the solenoid. Originally the car had three, but I had an ignition recall done and there is an additional two wires. They are all red and black. anyone have a diagram or photo I can look at?
hello all i just bought a 1994 ford taurus sho and i went to fill the coolant bottle but i over filled it. it stated smoking alil and smelled like burt wires and then the car shut off and wont start is that some kind of saftey thing???? please help
I've got a 2000 Focus wagon. Just cleaned the battery cables with a little baking soda and water. Right after, the car died. Now it won't crank at all. Everything else inside seems to work (lights, radio, and dashboard) I turn the key to the Run position everything but the odometer works (odometer reads all dashes, ------ ) Turn the key to Start position and Nothing. Will not crank, not even a relay click. This all happened instantly after the cleaning. I was driving it 10 minutes prior to that. I've since replaced the 8 year old battery, but still no difference. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Just wanted to add, The key was off at the time I cleaned the battery posts. And I've had No starting issues prior to this. It always worked fine. Now I can't even get it out of Park. Turn the key to the Run position and apply the brake. It won't come out of park. I use to be able to do that. With the Odometer reading all dashes, ( ------- ), and not being able to get it out of Park, makes me wonder if the ECM took a voltage spike or something. Like I said, I was driving it 10 minutes before this, with No prior problems at all. It just had a lot of corrosion build up on the battery, so I clean it with a wire brush and a little baking soda and water. That took about 5 mins, then I jumped in, to move it, and found this. Thanks again...
i have a 94 honda accord. sometimes she starts up fine, other times, just shuts off very quickly. if i wait a few seconds and turn it over again it's fine. it happens not everyday but occasionally enough to be a pain. any suggestions???
#1 of 2 starting problems by rlc5 Jan 16, 2001 (8:09 pm) My daughter owns a 1989 nissan stanza. It is her first car, and is used to get to school and her part time job. The car has 150,000 miles on it, but is in very good condition for it age. During the last three weeks, we have had a problem on two occasions with it starting. The engine turns over fine, but it will not start. On both occasions, the car had been driven about 5 miles, cut off for a short period of time, and would not restart. Also, maybe just coincidence, but on both occasions it has just been filled up with gas. When it happened today, I raised the hood and proceeded to look for loose connections, etc. I removed both coil wires from the distributor cap, and it is getting voltage up to the cap, with the ignition key on, according to the meter I checked it with. I removed a plug wire from one of the intake plugs and had her to crank the engine, but didn't show any voltage coming out of the wire. We tried about 15 times to get it to start with no results. I had her to cut the key off, and while I was looking around the engine for something else to check, I heard a metallic click, like a relay closing. I had her to try it again, and the car started up. We cut it off, and restarted it about 15 times with no problems. Auto electrical systems is not one of my strong points. I thought about carrying it to the shop, but I am afraid with an intermittent problem such as this, they would not be able to track it down, and would charge an arm and leg trying to find it. I really need to get this fixed before it leaves her stranded. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
#2 of 2 starting problems by djames1 Jan 17, 2001 (8:07 am) I am having the exact problem with my 1995 Nissan Maxima.Look under 1995 Nissan Max hard start and Nissan Maxima problems for details of what I am going through. Maybe we will find a solution soon...
#1 of 2 starting problems by rlc5 Jan 16, 2001 (8:09 pm) My daughter owns a 1989 nissan stanza. It is her first car, and is used to get to school and her part time job. The car has 150,000 miles on it, but is in very good condition for it age. During the last three weeks, we have had a problem on two occasions with it starting. The engine turns over fine, but it will not start. On both occasions, the car had been driven about 5 miles, cut off for a short period of time, and would not restart. Also, maybe just coincidence, but on both occasions it has just been filled up with gas. When it happened today, I raised the hood and proceeded to look for loose connections, etc. I removed both coil wires from the distributor cap, and it is getting voltage up to the cap, with the ignition key on, according to the meter I checked it with. I removed a plug wire from one of the intake plugs and had her to crank the engine, but didn't show any voltage coming out of the wire. We tried about 15 times to get it to start with no results. I had her to cut the key off, and while I was looking around the engine for something else to check, I heard a metallic click, like a relay closing. I had her to try it again, and the car started up. We cut it off, and restarted it about 15 times with no problems. Auto electrical systems is not one of my strong points. I thought about carrying it to the shop, but I am afraid with an intermittent problem such as this, they would not be able to track it down, and would charge an arm and leg trying to find it. I really need to get this fixed before it leaves her stranded. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
it may be a crank sensor,it is common problem and the weird crank may be the hydraulic lifters being starved with oil replace the sensor and crank with w.o.t
You are going to need either a set of electrical schematics, or get it to a shop that has them.
It is an intermittent problem, but you've already identified a key symptom.....which was a relay that clicked. Had the no-start problem, but then a relay clicked and worked fine. Many cars have a relay which is turned on by the ignition switch, and supplies the main 'ignition' power to the vehicle. Could be this relay is bad.
I would suggest you also check the status of your battery, and corrosion on the terminals. Should have 13+ volts, and an auto-supply store (pep boys, autozone,etc) will verify that your alternator and battery are working as needed. You should visually check the battery terminals for corrosion, clean with baking soda and wire brush if needed. If you had low voltage, the relay might not have enough voltage to turn on.
Someone with electrical schematics could zero right on what relay it might be, and where the relay is mounted.
I have a 98 Plymouth Neon, stick-shift with 200,000 miles. The car runs great but, just a couple of weeks ago, I went out to go somewhere and it wouldn't start. It cranks as normal but it's as if no gas is getting to the engine.
I tried it again every few hours for a couple of days when, finally, it started up, and drove about 40 miles as if nothing happened. Drove fine nearly every day until I pulled up to a stop light and the engine died; just as if I had run out of gas. Wouldn't re-start. I sat there a minute and it started but quickly shut down. Then it started and I got home, a couple miles away, just fine.
Today, I drove it 10 miles with no problems.
Someone tries to tell me it's the fuel pump but I have trouble understanding how I can drive so far on a bad fuel pump. Not that I would know. The car has not been driven very often, lately, and the air conditioning is running through all this. I had two sensors replaced, recently, when the the engine acted in a "halting" manner, jerking as I drove, then failing to start. These were replaced six weeks previous.
What's said is, as I said, it runs beautifully when it runs. Any ideas?
Something to check is your ignition switch. When it is failing, try putting different pressures on the keyswitch (for instance, pulling it out, pushing it in, pushing it forward toward the front of the car, rearward toward the back). Cars that old, sometimes end up with ignition switch problems, or the relay which powers the ignition/fuel injectors. Something small you can try.
I have an 86 Oldsmobile Cutlas Ciera 2.8 with Multi Port FI.I changed out the fuel pump,fuel sending unit and fuel fliter.Has spark but will not start thanks jbabb
Takes three things to run.......fuel, compression, and spark.
- You checked for spark, and have it - You should check compression on the cylinders, that will eliminate timing belt or valve/headgasket problems (assuming you have good compression in each cylinder) - If above checks out, then it must be you don't have fuel right yet.
Thanks for the reply,I have not checked the compression as of yet.And also car has less then 70,0000 miles on it After going to town and stoping by to see a freind the car would not restart.So the car sat for a little while until we could get to it. Is there a relay within the FI system that could of gone bad?
i am going to buy a 1996 camry from a friend and im having a problem with starting it. when i go to start it everything turns on like it is suppose to but it doesnt want to tun on. i hear a humming noise and the alarm light keeps flashing. the battery was replaced and im wondering if i have to reset the system now in order for it to turn over.if not then is there a way to by pass it. i would appreciate the help.
I am a proud owner of a 2001 Buick Park Ave (Std., not Ultra} My fuel gage was pegged so I installed a different speedometer/gage assembly from a 2003 P.A., salvage yard purchase. At this time I also changed the factory radio to a factory radio that has a C.D. player. It appears that the fuel gage and radio function just fine. The problem is that now when I turn the ignition to on, all of the system check light activate, but when I turn the key to start all the display goes out and there is no attempt to start the car. Next I walked the original fuel gage counter-clockwise back to empty and reinstalled the original speedometer cluster. The same symptoms exist, but the fuel gage works. Is there an issue with the Pass key III security system? Please share any thoughts! Thanks much, Dave
I believe a problem with pass key system would not cause vehicle to not turn over. The system just sguts off the fuel delivery. No crank problem would more likley be battery/ cable connection troubles.
Hi, I have a 1992 Chevy cavalier, it started to die out while driving. Got the alternator replaced, got new battery, new spark plugs and wires. Then car would crank when started but would only start half of the time. After all this took in to a mechanic he replced the starter. When I went to pick it up it would not start! Mechanic checked it again and found a kink in the fuel line. He replaced the fuel line and the car died out while driving it down the street. Mechanic did more tests, He said the fuel filter was clean, the fuel pump appeared good and that the the fuel read within normal range. He ran/did more tests and then said that the car has spark and that he found it needed a new Direct ignition system module and a crankshaft sensor. He replaced those and the darn car would not start! Now he is doing more tests. All I can say is HELP! Does anyone possibly know what could be wrong with the car? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
96 olds 88 3.8l 111000 miles front wheel drive.I have a bad crank sensor witch causes hard starting and stalling but at least it would turn over.but i havent changed it yet.One day after comming out of a store i was trying to start the car but acted like the battery slowly died all got then was a click of the solenoid.Changed battery,starter,both have been tested ok.changed 3 neg cables and pos cable.ran a wire from pos post on solenoid to the battery and all i get is the solenoid click.engine rotates ok by hand.all inside and outside lights work radio etc.
My '97 mitsubishi dimante starts in the morning, but if I stop and try to restart, it"s the luck of the draw. Can someone help? There is a strong fuel odor after trying to rank also
Do you have a check engine light on? or have you had your computer read to see if it is setting any error codes? Most auto parts chains will read your computer for free.
Sounds like it is running a rich mixture, which allows it to start when cold....and is giving you the gas smell when it's hot.
My wife's 99 mercury cougar 4 cylinder standard gives her problems occasionally when she tries to start the car. I have replaced the starter/neutral safety start-up switch below the clutch pedal as directed by a local mechanic, but my wife continues to have the same occasional problem with start up. When the key is turned, the car always indicates having power. The battery is new and continues to have the proper charge at start-up and during operation of the vehicle. After several attempts of turning the ignition on and off or sometimes removing the key and reinserting the key, then turning the ignition on, the car will start-up. If anyone can help or suggest something, it would be appreciated.
You could have a bad keyswitch on your steering column. Could be other things as well. What you'll need to do to diagnose this problem (to be sure), is to get a voltmeter and a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, and then when you are having the failed condition start monitoring voltages in the start circuitry.
i have a 97 safari van awd. I was driving in the snow blizzard and the truck all of a sudden died. My voltage regulator went right down to almost showing no charge and it hasn't moved,, I had the truck towed back to my drive way. What and where do I check to maybe find the problem. I'm thinking it's electrical, where I am totally lost.....My battery still has lots of juice even though it's 4 years old.
Well personally I'd be suspecting the 4 year old battery, but it is unusual to just stop in the middle of driving. How are you determining that the battery has "lots of juice", when the volt meter gauge is down to nothing? Are you measuring the battery with a voltmeter, if so, is the voltage 13.5-14.0 volts?
Check for loose battery terminal connector, or corrosion. Suspect battery side of cables first, but also look at where the positive connects to the starter, and where the negative ground connects to the frame or block.
If you can get it running, go to an autoparts chain and have them do a battery and alternator load test. This will confirm that the alternator is putting out the correct voltage and current, and the battery is holding the charge okay.
If all that checks out, then check that your ignition switch isn't bad. A vehicle 13 years old has had a lot of starts and key dangling.............
Ran out of gas. Turns over but won't re-start. Has spark and fuel. Fuel pump is pumping. Removed return fuel line and no pressure on fuel line. Will not fire at all. Any ideas on what I could be overlooking that it won't start/run??
turns out that the fuel injectors were frozen, had to place a hair dryer through the air filter vent ...solved the problem.....cheap fuel i guess...i now use gas line antifreeze
I have a 98 300m was driveing sputtered and stalled won't start no service light put it on scanner no codes replaced crank censor cam censor ,checked fire and fuel thats good replaced computer still nothing checked timing as well all good checked fuses all good can anyone help
Do a quick compression check on each of the cylinders, just to make sure you don't have a mechanical problem with valve train or head gasket. Will give you an oppty to look at the plugs as well, to see whether you have fuel getting to the cylinders.
Hello Everybody! I'm in complete agony over my 2003 Pontiac Sunfire. It has 85,000 miles on it. Let's just start from the beginning, shall we? I bought this car in June 2005, I, being 18 and naive bought a Pontiac that used to be a rental car. It was fine through out the summer until winter came and it wouldn't start for me, I jump started it, and it ran fine for a while, after a week or so, same thing. I have changed my battery 4 times in 4 1/2 years of having this Pontiac. I have taken it to so many different dealerships/auto repairs places and they all said different yet similiar things. Some of them said that they battery gets cold and I have to jump it to re-start it. Others have said it's a fuse or electrical problem that is draining the battery. Some have said it's the alternator, Some have said it's the starter.
This past winter, has been the worst winter of them all...
I have had to charge/jump start my car every single morning and night for the past 3 months!!! I don't have the money right now to fix whatever the heck is wrong with it. I just want to know what it is, so i can start planning to get it fixed. Either that... or I'm contemplating selling the piece of junk for $2000 even though I paid $10,000 for it.
Aren't these 4 steps what Mechanics are supposed to do when you bring your car in and tell them a problem though? I don't have one clue about fixing a car, or anything really about a car... maybe the Mechanics think they can just rip me off or something. I am going to Checker to see if they can put something on my battery to check to see if it's the alternator or not. It's hard not having a car!!!!!!!!
Hello, I'll start off by saying I know nothing about cars, so situations like this mystify me. I'm a college student and I took my 95 Ford Contour to school with me for summer classes, and while it made the 4 hour drive here fine, and hasn't had any problems since I got here 3 weeks ago, this morning I went out to go somewhere and I could not get the car to start.
The lights and the radio both come on fine, but when I turn the key to start the engine, I hear nothing but a single click and no other sound. Nothing else happens. I'm at a loss to figure out what to do and how I can repair this. I replaced the battery 6 months ago when it died then, so I'm fairly certain the battery itself isn't the issue. Could it have something to do with the starter? I have no idea. Also, I know there is plenty of gas in the car as well.
If anyone could help me find the solution to this problem I would be really grateful, I'm kinda worried because I rely on my car for a lot of things up here, particularly getting home when I need to because my parents are rarely able to come get me. If it comes to getting it repaired by professional mechanics, then I think I'm done for, because I don't have the money to pay for the $100+ that I assume I'd get charged, or the tow to get it to the mechanic in the first place. Any help would be much appreciated!
My 93 Mazda 626 won't start. I moved my car to the garage and now it won't start. The day before I moved it to the garage it was running good. The engine turns over but it won't start. Does anyone have an idea of what could be happening? Thanks
I'm thinkin' it's still the battery or the battery cables or the alternator. The lights and radio, at least at first, don't require much current, but the starter motor draws a LOT. The one "click" suggests that it isn't an alarm or ignition switch issue, so yeah, clean those battery cables and have the charging system checked. IF the car jump starts after cleaning the cables, you know it's a battery issue or charging issue.
I have a 99 Sienna XLE that won't start in cold weather (below 32 degrees). Problem first started a few weeks ago. First thing I did was to replace the battery, as it was due anyway. That did not solve the problem though. Over the holidays I drove to Florida and did not have a problem at all. Got back to Virginia last night and would not start this AM (20 degrees). Suggestions on how to troubleshoot this cold-weather (only) problem?
Depending on your diagnostic capability and tools you have, this would be relatively easy to trouble shoot.
I'll speak generically, because I don't have electrical schematics for your vehicle, but it would surprise me if it was somehow different. When you turn the key to start position (assuming security is all met), a 'start' relay or solenoid on the starter motor gets energized (the solenoid is nothing more than a relay), that is called the 'primary' winding. That winding creates a magnetic field, which pulls down an armature, making a connection between a set of 'secondary' points. Those higher current secondary points connect the battery voltage to the starter motor. The starter motor should spin, engage the flywheel, and turn over the motor so that it starts.
You have to figure out whether the problem is either the relay, or the starter motor. Hang a test wire on the terminal of the starter motor, and monitor the voltage with a digital voltmeter.
- If you have 13ish volts on that terminal, and the starter doesn't turn, then you know it's a starter motor problem. Replace the starter motor.
- If you don't get the required voltage, then either the relay isn't being told to energize or turn on, -or- it's properly energized but the secondary points aren't connecting. Hang a test lead on the primary to the relay. If when you turn the key the voltage to the primary goes to 13 volts, then the relay or solenoid is bad. If you don't get 13 volts to pick the relay, then back up into the ignition switch to make sure it is making the correct contact.
Looking at your starter would tell you whether it is just a starter motor and the 'relay' is up in one of the fuse terminal blocks.....or whether the starter motor has a solenoid hanging off the side of it. You could potentially also ask an autoparts store whether it has a solenoid, or there is a separate start relay.
I have a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire that wont start. I was running fine, then the next morning acts like it is going to start but wont. We have added fuel injector cleaner & water remover, thinking maybe water in gas, no change. We check spark plugs & wires, changed coil pack, fuel filter. When fuel filter was changed it started & ran rough for few minutes then stopped again & now wont start back up. Could it be anything other than the fuel pump. We are having to work on this at home, can't afford to go to shop.
Comments
Right after, the car died. Now it won't crank at all. Everything else inside seems to work (lights, radio, and dashboard)
I turn the key to the Run position everything but the odometer works (odometer reads all dashes, ------ )
Turn the key to Start position and Nothing. Will not crank, not even a relay click. This all happened instantly after the cleaning.
I was driving it 10 minutes prior to that. I've since replaced the 8 year old battery, but still no difference.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
And I've had No starting issues prior to this. It always worked fine.
Now I can't even get it out of Park. Turn the key to the Run position and apply the brake. It won't come out of park. I use to be able to do that.
With the Odometer reading all dashes, ( ------- ), and not being able to get it out of Park, makes me wonder if the ECM took a voltage spike or something.
Like I said, I was driving it 10 minutes before this, with No prior problems at all.
It just had a lot of corrosion build up on the battery, so I clean it with a wire brush and a little baking soda and water. That took about 5 mins, then I jumped in, to move it, and found this. Thanks again...
My daughter owns a 1989 nissan stanza. It is her first car, and is used to get to school and her part time job. The car has 150,000 miles on it, but is in very good condition for it age. During the last three weeks, we have had a problem on two occasions with it starting. The engine turns over fine, but it will not start. On both occasions, the car had been driven about 5 miles, cut off for a short period of time, and would not restart. Also, maybe just coincidence, but on both occasions it has just been filled up with gas. When it happened today, I raised the hood and proceeded to look for loose connections, etc. I removed both coil wires from the distributor cap, and it is getting voltage up to the cap, with the ignition key on, according to the meter I checked it with. I removed a plug wire from one of the intake plugs and had her to crank the engine, but didn't show any voltage coming out of the wire. We tried about 15 times to get it to start with no results. I had her to cut the key off, and while I was looking around the engine for something else to check, I heard a metallic click, like a relay closing. I had her to try it again, and the car started up. We cut it off, and restarted it about 15 times with no problems. Auto electrical systems is not one of my strong points. I thought about carrying it to the shop, but I am afraid with an intermittent problem such as this, they would not be able to track it down, and would charge an arm and leg trying to find it. I really need to get this fixed before it leaves her stranded. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
I am having the exact problem with my 1995 Nissan Maxima.Look under 1995 Nissan Max hard start and Nissan Maxima problems for details of what I am going through. Maybe we will find a solution soon...
My daughter owns a 1989 nissan stanza. It is her first car, and is used to get to school and her part time job. The car has 150,000 miles on it, but is in very good condition for it age. During the last three weeks, we have had a problem on two occasions with it starting. The engine turns over fine, but it will not start. On both occasions, the car had been driven about 5 miles, cut off for a short period of time, and would not restart. Also, maybe just coincidence, but on both occasions it has just been filled up with gas. When it happened today, I raised the hood and proceeded to look for loose connections, etc. I removed both coil wires from the distributor cap, and it is getting voltage up to the cap, with the ignition key on, according to the meter I checked it with. I removed a plug wire from one of the intake plugs and had her to crank the engine, but didn't show any voltage coming out of the wire. We tried about 15 times to get it to start with no results. I had her to cut the key off, and while I was looking around the engine for something else to check, I heard a metallic click, like a relay closing. I had her to try it again, and the car started up. We cut it off, and restarted it about 15 times with no problems. Auto electrical systems is not one of my strong points. I thought about carrying it to the shop, but I am afraid with an intermittent problem such as this, they would not be able to track it down, and would charge an arm and leg trying to find it. I really need to get this fixed before it leaves her stranded. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
It is an intermittent problem, but you've already identified a key symptom.....which was a relay that clicked. Had the no-start problem, but then a relay clicked and worked fine. Many cars have a relay which is turned on by the ignition switch, and supplies the main 'ignition' power to the vehicle. Could be this relay is bad.
I would suggest you also check the status of your battery, and corrosion on the terminals. Should have 13+ volts, and an auto-supply store (pep boys, autozone,etc) will verify that your alternator and battery are working as needed. You should visually check the battery terminals for corrosion, clean with baking soda and wire brush if needed. If you had low voltage, the relay might not have enough voltage to turn on.
Someone with electrical schematics could zero right on what relay it might be, and where the relay is mounted.
I tried it again every few hours for a couple of days when, finally, it started up, and drove about 40 miles as if nothing happened. Drove fine nearly every day until I pulled up to a stop light and the engine died; just as if I had run out of gas. Wouldn't re-start. I sat there a minute and it started but quickly shut down. Then it started and I got home, a couple miles away, just fine.
Today, I drove it 10 miles with no problems.
Someone tries to tell me it's the fuel pump but I have trouble understanding how I can drive so far on a bad fuel pump. Not that I would know. The car has not been driven very often, lately, and the air conditioning is running through all this. I had two sensors replaced, recently, when the the engine acted in a "halting" manner, jerking as I drove, then failing to start. These were replaced six weeks previous.
What's said is, as I said, it runs beautifully when it runs. Any ideas?
fliter.Has spark but will not start
thanks
jbabb
- You checked for spark, and have it
- You should check compression on the cylinders, that will eliminate timing belt or valve/headgasket problems (assuming you have good compression in each cylinder)
- If above checks out, then it must be you don't have fuel right yet.
as of yet.And also car has less then 70,0000 miles on it After going to town and stoping by to see a freind the car would not restart.So the car sat for a little while until we could get to it. Is there a relay within the FI system that could of gone bad?
My fuel gage was pegged so I installed a different speedometer/gage assembly from a 2003 P.A., salvage yard purchase. At this time I also changed the factory radio to a factory radio that has a C.D. player. It appears that the fuel gage and radio function just fine. The problem is that now when I turn the ignition to on, all of the system check light activate, but when I turn the key to start all the display goes out and there is no attempt to start the car. Next I walked the original fuel gage counter-clockwise back to empty and reinstalled the original speedometer cluster. The same symptoms exist, but the fuel gage works. Is there an issue with the Pass key III security system? Please share any thoughts! Thanks much, Dave
* digg
Sounds like it is running a rich mixture, which allows it to start when cold....and is giving you the gas smell when it's hot.
Check for loose battery terminal connector, or corrosion. Suspect battery side of cables first, but also look at where the positive connects to the starter, and where the negative ground connects to the frame or block.
If you can get it running, go to an autoparts chain and have them do a battery and alternator load test. This will confirm that the alternator is putting out the correct voltage and current, and the battery is holding the charge okay.
If all that checks out, then check that your ignition switch isn't bad. A vehicle 13 years old has had a lot of starts and key dangling.............
This past winter, has been the worst winter of them all...
I have had to charge/jump start my car every single morning and night for the past 3 months!!! I don't have the money right now to fix whatever the heck is wrong with it. I just want to know what it is, so i can start planning to get it fixed. Either that... or I'm contemplating selling the piece of junk for $2000 even though I paid $10,000 for it.
Please, Please help me!!!
Okay, sarcasm aside, excuse me, but I cant' see why a competent mechanic could not easily do the following:
1. load test your battery
2. bench test the alternator for output/shorts/belt tension/etc
3. test the car for a battery drain using a voltmeter.
4. Test starter amperage draw with a heavy duty ammeter/tester.
This is Mechanics 101. I think your problem is not insisting on DATA to support the opinions of people who are advising you.
Car ran fine turned off and now it just spins the engine no spark or gas
The lights and the radio both come on fine, but when I turn the key to start the engine, I hear nothing but a single click and no other sound. Nothing else happens. I'm at a loss to figure out what to do and how I can repair this. I replaced the battery 6 months ago when it died then, so I'm fairly certain the battery itself isn't the issue. Could it have something to do with the starter? I have no idea. Also, I know there is plenty of gas in the car as well.
If anyone could help me find the solution to this problem I would be really grateful, I'm kinda worried because I rely on my car for a lot of things up here, particularly getting home when I need to because my parents are rarely able to come get me. If it comes to getting it repaired by professional mechanics, then I think I'm done for, because I don't have the money to pay for the $100+ that I assume I'd get charged, or the tow to get it to the mechanic in the first place. Any help would be much appreciated!
I'll speak generically, because I don't have electrical schematics for your vehicle, but it would surprise me if it was somehow different. When you turn the key to start position (assuming security is all met), a 'start' relay or solenoid on the starter motor gets energized (the solenoid is nothing more than a relay), that is called the 'primary' winding. That winding creates a magnetic field, which pulls down an armature, making a connection between a set of 'secondary' points. Those higher current secondary points connect the battery voltage to the starter motor. The starter motor should spin, engage the flywheel, and turn over the motor so that it starts.
You have to figure out whether the problem is either the relay, or the starter motor. Hang a test wire on the terminal of the starter motor, and monitor the voltage with a digital voltmeter.
- If you have 13ish volts on that terminal, and the starter doesn't turn, then you know it's a starter motor problem. Replace the starter motor.
- If you don't get the required voltage, then either the relay isn't being told to energize or turn on, -or- it's properly energized but the secondary points aren't connecting. Hang a test lead on the primary to the relay. If when you turn the key the voltage to the primary goes to 13 volts, then the relay or solenoid is bad. If you don't get 13 volts to pick the relay, then back up into the ignition switch to make sure it is making the correct contact.
Looking at your starter would tell you whether it is just a starter motor and the 'relay' is up in one of the fuse terminal blocks.....or whether the starter motor has a solenoid hanging off the side of it. You could potentially also ask an autoparts store whether it has a solenoid, or there is a separate start relay.