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Symptoms....It turns over like it is going to catch and does not
Replaced the fuse - started, engine ran and then the fuse blew
Replaced the fuse and the relay switch...started, engine ran, blew the fuse
No check engine light
Anything else I can check?
my van was driving very well except whenever i get on the interstate it would die like i ran out of gas. then i would try to start it and it would back fire. I still pressed the gas until it moved slowly. I would never go over 50 mph. then i drove it to store and came back out it would not start cranks up but wont turn over. Please help
EHall
I've checked that the wires are in the correct firing order and looked for any vaccuum lines that may have been bumped loose but couldn't see anything. I should have replaced the plugs as well. I'll try that tomorrow.
Any suggestions?
I just bought a 1994 Suzuki Swift GA (1.3 liter), with 77,000 miles.
When the engine is cold, it starts right away (within 1 second), and drives great.
After it has run for 10 minutes, sometimes the engine runs a bit rough - like the engine is "missing".
When it's "hot" (after it has run for 10 minutes) and shut off, it will not start:
the engine turns over (compression seems normal), but it does not "fire"; also, every second or so it "backfires" (flames out of throttle body).
When this happens: it seems to have ignition - a screwdriver in the spark plug boot gives a nice spark, although I can't tell if it's timed right. I checked and cleaned the engine grounds. The fuel tank is full. Pouring gas into the throttle body then trying to start it makes no difference. I checked the valve timing (correct) and checked and tensioned the timing belt (good).
After the car has set and cooled for 1/2 to 1 hour, it starts right away.
Has anyone experienced something similar? Any ideas?
Thank you,
Philip Dybel
being started. It was pulled into the driveway one day and never
started again(because it would not, it was not a choice). Recently, the gas
tank was competely drained of it's full tank of gas and new gas put in,
a new fuel pump and battery were installed, the fuel lines cleared and
the injectors cleaned. No fuel is getting to the pump, as was the case
before the fuel pump was changed. This will be a 16 yr olds 1st car if
he can get it running. The car is in otherwise mint condition having
belonged to grandma. Any suggestions on what to check next?
Thank you!
I would check to see if the fuel pump is running. Just turn the key on, do not try to start the car, and have someone listen by the gas fill tube for the pump to run, they will run for 3 to 6 seconds to bring the system up to the correct psi. My guess is that it's not running, but thats just a guess.
If it does not run, (the fuel pump), check for spark, if it has no spark I would find out if it does have a crankshaft sensor and change it.
Hope that helps a bit. Good luck.
btw, the fuel pump is not running. That's when he figured it wasn't the fuel pump that was the problem but just didnt know what else it could be.
Thanks again!
Good luck with your Suburban.
I have a 94 maxima that died while i was driving it. At first I thoulght it just jumped out of gear, then realized it had died. Now it will not restart. The starter seems to be working it makes a whirring noise but does not crank the engine(Dont think the starter would make it die anyway)
Is there something internal thay may have broken?
Thanks
thanks for your time
Actually, check the very very basics first. Is the battery supplying at least 12 volts to crank the engine fast enough to start? Is the air filter dirty. Is the fuel filter sirty. Just check.
What happens when I try to start the car is that it will fire a few times, sounding like it's going to start. Sputter a bit then die. I can try a couple more times, get a few sputters, then nothing but dry cranking. And after a few attempts all I get is starter rotation with no ignition.
It almost* always starts when it's been off for an hour or two or longer.
So far I have taken the vehicle to 4 different shops including two mazda dealerships but to no avail. None were able to reproduce or troubleshoot the problem since it is intermittent and never occurred while the car was in the shop.
Here is what I have replaced so far since the problem began:
Plugs
Wires
Battery
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator (x2)
Fuel tank sensors of some sort. I wasn't involved in this repair so I don't know exactly what was replaced, but it had no affect on the problem.
One potentially valuable piece of information is that the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad twice in two years. So I can only suspect that something else in the vehicle is my problem, and causing the pressure regulator to fail. Could anyone tell me what components could possibly cause damage to this part as well as cause hard starting problems? Any ideas what else could be wrong?
thank you.
I've already removed the key mechanism and cylinder, and with it out of the steering column it will rotate through all 5 positions! I tried twisting with a screwdriver in the slot in the steering column (yes, I was careful) and could only get that part of the mechanism to move through 2 positions (would be "run" and "off").
I thought maybe the transmission might be the problem. But the shifter (on the column) moves freely through all positions, and the key won't turn regardless of what gear is selected. We were able to push it out of the driveway in neutral so I know it changes gears. Maybe the car has a sensor that thinks it's still in drive?
There is still power, radio and dash lights come on....she just won't move to the start position. Any ideas?
TIA for the help ....
I don't believe based on those symptoms that it is a fuel problem. I recently replaced the control module in the HEI thinking that might be the problem. I don't know what other components could fail that would cause an intermittant problem like I am having. Could it be a compression problem where when the car does fire up, oil goes into the cylinders and improves compression, thus making the car start for the rest of the day? Anybody have any ideas of what could make my car act this way? Thanks
Electronics are usually bad and stay bad. They don't wake up with starter fluid I mean.
I suppose you could check your spark plugs just in case they are massively fouled up.
I'm thinking that my problem could be just a weak spark caused by a rotor/cap that might be starting to wear out. That's why I believe that starter fluid might have solved my problem in the past. I currently have about 35,000 miles on my cap and rotor made by Borg Warner.
even wires that look good must be checked for continuity. Esp.
under the right fender comp. module. This is a common thing in
that model.