"No Start" Problems

snappymold

My mazda 323 has been great but since I bought it a few weeks ago it has had one little thing. Almost every time it gets run for 15 mins or more it will start to sputter when I take off from a dead stop. Once the revs pick up it goes just fine until the next full stop and then again it sputters from take off. Finally this weekend after attending a soggy whitewater festival it just died right in the middle of the parking lot. No weird noise, no horrible failure, just won't seem to fire. It turns over well and when I let it sit for 10 mins it started but stalled again 20 sec. later while I was closing up the hood and doors. Then wouldn't restart. I have looked over all the forums with any related symtoms butno dice. I feel it is a fuel problem or oxygen sensor or.......any advice I could get would be great. The car is still parked at the campground until Friday and I really, really need to fix it where it is. Probably $300-$400 tow from the boonies to town. PLease help me please.

onlythewife

I have a 98 Chevy S10, 4cylinder, manual transmission. It stalled in the driveway and now will not start. I have had a number of repair shops tell me something different over the phone and wondered if anyone has any other input before I have it towed... :sick:

Symptoms....It turns over like it is going to catch and does not

Replaced the fuse - started, engine ran and then the fuse blew

Replaced the fuse and the relay switch...started, engine ran, blew the fuse

No check engine light

Anything else I can check?

datprideinva

fuel pump that's what my problem was when that happen to me in my van 93

datprideinva

man im stranded
my van was driving very well except whenever i get on the interstate it would die like i ran out of gas. then i would try to start it and it would back fire. I still pressed the gas until it moved slowly. I would never go over 50 mph. then i drove it to store and came back out it would not start cranks up but wont turn over. Please help

terrikaye

Help! I have a 94 Cutlass Supreme that does nothing when you turn the key. No sound or anything. I attached jumper cables between the solenoid and the pos battery post and it tries to turn over. Battery cables are new and so is the battery. Any Ideas??

cornellpinoy

Had the same problem with a family member's '94 Cutlass Supreme. For us, it turned out to be a bad starter.

dklsj2005

I have a 1997 chevy blazer and it just quit in the middle of the road..we have put a new fuel filter,spark plugs,distribtor cap,rotor and battery in it and it still will not start...if anyone has anything else they think will you please let me know ty

webart

I have a GMC Safari AWD that just started with this problem ; When i try to start it in the am wether the battery is charged or not i get chattering like the relay isn't staying in, and then it stops . If I keep turning the key on and of and on it will eventually start after 4 -8 times. I tried a new starter but had the same problem. I found the positive post corroded and broke it while cleaning it so I cut it off at the cable end and installed a new one.I had Checker check the battery and alternator to be sure they were ok and they said yes. Still the same problem. I am not sure where to go next ,to the distributor and module or to the hold in,up fitter and starter relays in the fuse box or the ignition switch. Can some one point me in the right direction? I appreciate any help. Bill.

ehall

My 1993 S-15 will crank, but will not start, almost as if it is not fireing. We replaced the starter coil, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, and still the same problem. one thing is that it can still be push started. It came on gradually, one time it would start, the next it would not. Now it just cranks, and won't start. Any thoughts?

EHall

csb45lc

1994 sonoma 4.3z wont start. Quit while driving and wont start. Did this once before replaced coil, pickup coil and ignition module. Truck started ran a week and then quit again. Replaced same parts no start and this time did the computer no help. I have fuel but no spark. Distributor cap and rotor are not that old maybe 6 months. Any help??

autosetc

I have a 99 16valve 1.3 with 79K purchased from my niece.The history of car goes like this.I sold her the car with 28K purchased from Enterprise rentals.They drove it 4 years w/no incidents.Was running fine when I purchased a month ago but had a front crank seal leaking.I pressure washed with high pressure system pulled down front of engine set timing marks removed belt and proceeded to install seal.I installed new belt without moving anything double checked everything and then tried to crank.and tried to crank and on&on.I've ran scan checks traced wiring everything you can imagine and car will not crank.Seems to have issues with spark being delivered at proper time.Does anyone have a clue on this issue? Will check back for replies later Thanks

twrauch

Had a similar problem w/ two different 95 cutlass supremes. There is a remote battery jump post attached to the driver's side fuse box. Check the brass nut on top - it has a nasty tendency to loosen up causing the car not to start, oil light to come on, turn signals to blink really slow, and car to suddenly die while driving - all sorts of problems. Several dealers couldn't find the problem for us - some old timer traced all of our problems to that stupid remote post. I put a lock nut over the brass nut and presto - no more problems.

pea1

Did you ever find a solution to your won't start problem? My car is doing the exact same thing and it is very frustrating.

webart

Thanks to Checker I spent a whole month with a dead or dying battery, They told me it was good. I'll never do business with them again. On a whim I stopped at an Autozone and had then check my ignition and charging system. They told me I had a bad batteru=y in less than five minutes. I bought a new battery and haven't had a lick of trouble since. Try the simple things first and check it your self.

crisper1

My son bought an 88 Maxima with high miles but ran well aside from an oil leak. I just replaces the valve cover gaskets and tried to restart it and it wouldn't start. Finally after checking all the plug wires again i was able to barely get it running. It ran rough and didn't have near the power it did have, so I replaced the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor thinking maybe something got bumped and damaged during the valve cover removal. After that I couldn't get it to start at all!

I've checked that the wires are in the correct firing order and looked for any vaccuum lines that may have been bumped loose but couldn't see anything. I should have replaced the plugs as well. I'll try that tomorrow.

Any suggestions?

jharding

I just moved to southern california and have been driving my Spec-V back and forth from Hermosa Beach to pasadena on the 110 every weekday. I decided to get it washed for the first time in a month and went to a place where they send it through the wash and then wipe it off. They sent it through once, drove it around and sent it through again. Then they drove it out, wiped it off, pulled it up, restarting the car each time. Then when they are done, they give me the keys and I go to start it and NOTHING. There is plenty of battery, just no fuel. The mechanic where I got it towed confirmed it was electrical. NOW...does anyone know if there is a fuel pump cut off switch for the 2002 Nissan Sentra SPec-V that doesnt have the sunroof/stereo options? I think its gotta be that. Or the computer. ANy help will be MORE than appreciated.

tlw2

I am experiencing the same problem with my 99 gmc safari. It won't start in the morning after sitting out all night but it will start in the afternoon,evening hours. It seems to not want to start when it is damp. It will turn over but dies out quickly after. It seem slike it is not getting the fuel. We had this problem a few years back and we changed the fuel filter and everything was fine.We put fuel injector cleaner in and a week later it happened. I'll let you know if it worked. We may need to change the distributor cap.

philipdybel

Hi !

I just bought a 1994 Suzuki Swift GA (1.3 liter), with 77,000 miles.

When the engine is cold, it starts right away (within 1 second), and drives great.

After it has run for 10 minutes, sometimes the engine runs a bit rough - like the engine is "missing".

When it's "hot" (after it has run for 10 minutes) and shut off, it will not start:
the engine turns over (compression seems normal), but it does not "fire"; also, every second or so it "backfires" (flames out of throttle body).

When this happens: it seems to have ignition - a screwdriver in the spark plug boot gives a nice spark, although I can't tell if it's timed right. I checked and cleaned the engine grounds. The fuel tank is full. Pouring gas into the throttle body then trying to start it makes no difference. I checked the valve timing (correct) and checked and tensioned the timing belt (good).

After the car has set and cooled for 1/2 to 1 hour, it starts right away.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Any ideas?

Thank you,
Philip Dybel

ukfan

I installed an after market remote starter system on it. It didn't work out. Removed it. Now, I'm having intermittent starting issues with it. It will crank and fire but will not continue to run. It seems the fuel injectors are cutting out. After it sets for about 10 minutes it will start just fine. Every now and then driving down the road my security light comes on. Could this be an issue with the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD)? If so, what do I need to look at first??

wbusby

Hello to all my fellow Impala fans!! I was curious if you ever found a "cure" to your no start problem? I have an '02 that has done it twice to me and I have 133,000 miles on it, anybody know why? Is it possible that the key is slightly worn and the tumblers dont activate all the connections or what?? ">

gcstars

Unfortunately, this car was allowed to sit for about 4-5 years without
being started. It was pulled into the driveway one day and never
started again(because it would not, it was not a choice). Recently, the gas
tank was competely drained of it's full tank of gas and new gas put in,
a new fuel pump and battery were installed, the fuel lines cleared and
the injectors cleaned. No fuel is getting to the pump, as was the case
before the fuel pump was changed. This will be a 16 yr olds 1st car if
he can get it running. The car is in otherwise mint condition having
belonged to grandma. Any suggestions on what to check next?
Thank you!

wbusby

Do you know if the car has spark?? A lot of the GM vehicles had a crank sensor, if it is bad it would tell the computer to shut off the fuel supply and also the spark because it thinks the crankshaft is not spinning, the reason for that is so the cylinders wont fill up with raw gas and ignite creating a huge problem!
I would check to see if the fuel pump is running. Just turn the key on, do not try to start the car, and have someone listen by the gas fill tube for the pump to run, they will run for 3 to 6 seconds to bring the system up to the correct psi. My guess is that it's not running, but thats just a guess.
If it does not run, (the fuel pump), check for spark, if it has no spark I would find out if it does have a crankshaft sensor and change it.
Hope that helps a bit. Good luck.

herso24

My friend, I have almost the same problem with my Nissan 88 and have already spent some money with two mechanics. I don't have the answer, but If I make it work I will let you know what was the problem; please let me know if you get it to work first. Good luck. herso24@yahoo.com

cline092001

I ran my 1995 GMC JIMMY out of gas put gas in it but it wont start I checked the fuel lines there was gas in it. I dont know what to do

gcstars

Thanks! I told my husband and he said he did not think of that. I bought a Chiltons manual to see if we could find trouble shooting or wire schematics for the system for this car, he doesn't want to just replace the crankshaft sensor without testing it first. Unfortunately, the manual gave no trouble shooting or had any wiring schematics for the system so I took it back to the auto store where I purchased it and told them what I needed and they said that was the only manuals they offered. Do you know of a manual that would offer that, the auto store also sold Haynes but the guy at the counter wasnt helpful and they didnt have a Haynes manual for the vehicle there.
btw, the fuel pump is not running. That's when he figured it wasn't the fuel pump that was the problem but just didnt know what else it could be.
Thanks again!

thisey

I have a 2003 Suburban. Three times my suburban has failed to start. Engine light comes on, lose the clock, and when I turn the ignition only a clicking noise is made. When I remove the keys the odometer and speedometer needles rise. Twice boosting has started the vehicle, third time unsuccessful. Vehicle was towed to GM dealer and left over long weekend. I visited the vehicle to recover some items and found no power at all to open locks etc. Two days later the GM dealer started the vehicle without boosting and called to ask me what the problem was. Explained it to them as this was second visit to dealer. GM Technical is involved and cannot explain problem as it cannot be replicated by dealer. Again dealer says battery, alternator, cables etc is fine. GM is going to keep vehicle for rest of week to see if no start can be replicated. Does this sound like yours?

gcstars

Hello. No, not the same. I swear, GM's must have all sorts of electrical problems. I have an 06 Malibu and I had to have the ignition replaced already, when I bought it, right off the get go, I would turn the key, and nothing. Turn it again and it would start right up. I finally said something to the dealer about a month ago during an oil change(I kept forgetting to mention it), they had 3 service bulletins on it, uh, hello, recall? Same thing with my Trailblazer I had turned in to purchase the Malibu. They replaced both the rear taillights when I brought it in to say one wasnt working (and the passenger side rear window wasnt working. Switch for window and then the entire taillight assembly, what the heck? In my Chevy Express coversion van I had, windows literally fell out, trans body went bad (it was not even 2 years old, heated mirror cracked the first time I used it(the dealer asked me if it was on when it was cold, isnt that the purpose of a heated mirror?) I'm just a little frustrated I guess hearing of vehicles, especially fairly new ones, with these problems. Obviously, the station wagon isnt new, but when it quit running it was still only about 5-6 years old. This car will start with a jump, it just isn't getting fuel which really leads me to believe the suggestion of the crankshaft sensor being bad sounds accurate according to the problem this would create. We just want to fix it at home though and not take it to a dealer and get raked over the coals @ $68/hour! Even a regular repair facility(not dealer)charges $68/hr. I was really hoping somebody would suggest a good repair manual or a way to test the sensor for me.
Good luck with your Suburban.

jtporter

Hi guys,

I have a 94 maxima that died while i was driving it. At first I thoulght it just jumped out of gear, then realized it had died. Now it will not restart. The starter seems to be working it makes a whirring noise but does not crank the engine(Dont think the starter would make it die anyway)

Is there something internal thay may have broken?

Thanks

vrk0057

Have you checked the ignition module? Most auto parts stores can test these, and they only cost $30 or 40 to replace.

nick0428

hey what did u find out with your car, my mother is having the exact problem with a 96 olds ninety eight,
thanks for your time

autojunke

Sounds like you may have broke the timing belt, the "whirring" noise is the engine cranking, but with the timing belt broken there is no compression to offer mechanical resistance to the starter, therefore it turns over faster, and with ease, too much ease.

murtadee

I have 95 sunfire that will not start. its not the fuel pump. the engine rotates but it just won't start. can anyone tell me what is wrong? because i can not afford to take it to the shop.

penizzle

How do you know it's not the fuel pump. Did you actually check fuel pressure? The things that cause an engine to crank and not start are lack of fuel, lack of spark, or lack of compression. Start with the fuel part by checking for proper fuel pressure and operation of fuel injectors. Then on to the spark, check for fualty plugs or wires or coils, depends on car. Then check compression, particullarly for loose spark plugs or a bad head gasket.

Actually, check the very very basics first. Is the battery supplying at least 12 volts to crank the engine fast enough to start? Is the air filter dirty. Is the fuel filter sirty. Just check.

autojunke

Compression would be your last worry, and least likely, but otherwise I agree with the previos post completely. These things do need to be checked, and if you would provide some more info, we can help. Did it die and never restart, or did you park it, and in the morning nothing?? Did you check fuel pressure, presence of spark, etc.

scott41955

I have an old, thought to be invincible 1977 Toyota truck that decided not to start a couple days ago. I checked the cap, rotor and points...Well.., let's just say I got my money's worth out of them. After replacing them it started up first kick the following cold morning. I drove about 2 miles and then she just quit. Not even 1 sputter while coasting to the side of the road from 50mph. No spark to the plug wires and there is 12v at the coil and distributor. Upon inspecting the cap & rotor I found that the pin that rides on the rotor pushed up towards the coil wire and it appeared the rotor was rubbing against the cap at the center around the pin. I replaced the cap & rotor(the condenser has not been replaced, not instock at the parts house). Now when I try to start her she'll give a quick sput and that's it! Let her sit for 5 - 10 min. she'll repete the above sput and that's it! The problem with the rotor & cap seems resolved, there is no excessive play on the distributor shaft. My book doesn't give the resistance for the coil and no mention of the condenser. The points have a yellow spark when I open them. I have installed an electric fuel pump and it is running. There appears to be fuel at the carborater Where do I go from here? I need a bigger hammer, any suggestions???

emeraldavila

:sick: Lately I have been having trouble with my car. It seems that when it wants to start it will, and when it does not want to it does not. It will crank sometimes but it will not turn. Then sometimes it delays then cranks and turns. Then sometimes I dont get anything and the engine light is on for all of these conditions. Once the cars turns on the engine light turns off and I have no problems. It happens in either type of weather hot or cold. Some say its the relay some say its the fuel pump, I am so confused. Please help me. I lovvvvve my car, and I dont want to give it up.

guest

im having what seems to be the same problem with my mazda 323 1991 . just wondering how or if your problem was ever resolved. helpme323

twitme

I've got a 2001 4cyl mazda 626 with 88k miles. For the past year the vehicle has intermittently failed to start in warm weather, generally when the vehicle has been running for a while, shut off, and [attempted to be] started again, anywhere from just a couple mins to 45 mins after it was shut off. It performed flawlessly in less than 30 degree farenheit weather [didn't have a single problem all winter long], but once it got warm again, the problem returned.

What happens when I try to start the car is that it will fire a few times, sounding like it's going to start. Sputter a bit then die. I can try a couple more times, get a few sputters, then nothing but dry cranking. And after a few attempts all I get is starter rotation with no ignition.

It almost* always starts when it's been off for an hour or two or longer.

So far I have taken the vehicle to 4 different shops including two mazda dealerships but to no avail. None were able to reproduce or troubleshoot the problem since it is intermittent and never occurred while the car was in the shop.

Here is what I have replaced so far since the problem began:
Plugs
Wires
Battery
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator (x2)
Fuel tank sensors of some sort. I wasn't involved in this repair so I don't know exactly what was replaced, but it had no affect on the problem.

One potentially valuable piece of information is that the fuel pressure regulator has gone bad twice in two years. So I can only suspect that something else in the vehicle is my problem, and causing the pressure regulator to fail. Could anyone tell me what components could possibly cause damage to this part as well as cause hard starting problems? Any ideas what else could be wrong?

thank you.

derelict1

A 1989 Ford Taurus Station wagon. This car had "issues" before where you could take the key out of the ignition with the engine running (key wasn't "locked in" to the tumbler?). Wife brought it home from running around the other day and after she turned it off she couldn't get it back on again. Key will turn to the "run" position but not to the "start" position. Also won't turn counter-clockwise ("accessory" and "lock").

I've already removed the key mechanism and cylinder, and with it out of the steering column it will rotate through all 5 positions! I tried twisting with a screwdriver in the slot in the steering column (yes, I was careful) and could only get that part of the mechanism to move through 2 positions (would be "run" and "off").

I thought maybe the transmission might be the problem. But the shifter (on the column) moves freely through all positions, and the key won't turn regardless of what gear is selected. We were able to push it out of the driveway in neutral so I know it changes gears. Maybe the car has a sensor that thinks it's still in drive?

There is still power, radio and dash lights come on....she just won't move to the start position. Any ideas?

96sidekick

Hi all - I am having an intermittent no start situation. Got home after Christmas holidays, went to start the old car, no go. The car would SLOWLY turn over, but didn't sound right. To my untrained ear, it sounded like the starter only was turning slowly. Tried the headlight trick - when I tried to crank the engine, they dimmed only slightly. Tried a boost anyway, no go. Bump started it, it started right away. Drove around the block, shut down, re-started like a charm. Waited a few hours, started again, perfectly. I looked at the connections on the starter, it seems I have a small oil leak dripping onto the low 12V plug on the solenoid. I cleaned this up with some contact cleaner. I have 12V here, but would an oily terminal cause the bendix clutch not to engage fully? Would this cause the starter to turn slowly?

TIA for the help ....

saltydog73

I have a 1991 F250 7.3L Diesel that has decided to stop starting... hopefully, someone here can make some suggestions. When I try to start the truck, the solenoid clicks once and then everything electrical dies. I had the starter bench tested at AutoZone and they say that it is fine, as are the batteries (tested also). I connect the two battery wires to the solenoid and leave it hanging rather than connecting it the fly wheel... one solenoid click and nothing. I replaced the stupid "Ford" solenoid on the fender of the truck (I don't know why Ford insists on two solenoids but that can be for another post) - one click solenoid and nothing. I took a jumper cable and went between the + post of one battery and the corresponding post on the starter's solenoid... this time I get one solenoid click, a few (5-6) cranks and then nothing. The wire on the jumper cable heats up and starts melting the plastic sheath (I think if it was heavy enough gauge that jumping the battery to the solenoid would work). My dad tells me to check all the cable connections (+/- wires)... I checked and cleaned all the (+) connections with a wire wheel on a grinder or sandpaper so they are all clean (bare metal). I didn't check or clean the engine or frame grounds because I think that if I had a ground issue, my battery to starter solenoid jumping would produce the same results as without the jumping... I did nothing to the ground when I run the jumper cable. My next option is to replace the battery cables... I call Ford and they want $300 for the cables (are you f-ing kidding me? I understand copper is expensive but how does the dealership justify that price?), AutoZone wants $110... note about the cable; the (-) cables are pretty standard, the (+) cable is connected to the left-hand battery, runs to the right-hand battery, and then splits. From here, one wire (16 gauge) goes to the "Ford" fender solenoid and then goes to the starter solenoid; the other wire (4 gauge) goes to another post on the starter solenoid. I am going to wait until Tuesday to see how much a battery shop can make the cable for me, but before I do that, am I missing something that I can check or change? Could my jumper between the (+) on one terminal to the starter solenoid really work if I had a ground issue? Again, when I do this, all the battery wires are connected as they would be from the dealership. I generally drive the truck to tow my boat only; this all happened when I took it for a drive (ran about 20 min) and then turned it off outside of a store... hasn't started since.

cutlass1

I have a 1978 Cutlass Supreme 260 V8 2 barrel carburetor and HEI ignition system with 205,000 miles. This car has an intermittant starting problem when the car sits idle overnight and I try to do a cold start. The car will eventually start if I spray starting fluid into the carb and crank the engine. Sometimes I have to repeat that procedure a number of times before the engine starts. Once the car fires up, and the engine speed responds to the throttle, and I shut it down, it will start again on the first try for the rest of the day. On a couple of rare occasions, once the car starts and within the first 2 minutes of operation, the car will hesitate and lag and sounds like it is ready to stall. When that occured, I pulled over and let the engine run unloaded for a minute and after that it runs fine. Once the car is running, it accelerates smoothly and I am getting the same gas mileage as when the car was new.

I don't believe based on those symptoms that it is a fuel problem. I recently replaced the control module in the HEI thinking that might be the problem. I don't know what other components could fail that would cause an intermittant problem like I am having. Could it be a compression problem where when the car does fire up, oil goes into the cylinders and improves compression, thus making the car start for the rest of the day? Anybody have any ideas of what could make my car act this way? Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

fuel pump? The fact that it will start with starting fluid kind of tips you off here. Sounds like the pump just doesn't have enough to keep fuel pressure and eventuall wakes up when its warm enough.

Electronics are usually bad and stay bad. They don't wake up with starter fluid I mean.

I suppose you could check your spark plugs just in case they are massively fouled up.

cutlass1

Thanks for your reply. I have some updated info since my last post. When I replaced my control module, I cleaned and lubed my centrifugal advance, and cleaned the contacts on my rotor and distributor cap. Now when I do a cold start after an overnight shutdown, my car will fire up without starter fluid after the third attempt. I think with that info, I'm going to replace my cap and rotor tomorrow and attempt another cold start and see what happens.

I'm thinking that my problem could be just a weak spark caused by a rotor/cap that might be starting to wear out. That's why I believe that starter fluid might have solved my problem in the past. I currently have about 35,000 miles on my cap and rotor made by Borg Warner.

Mr_Shiftright

Also you don't want to over-use starter fluid...it's a very strong solvent and cleans cylinder walls of oil.

moemac

Just a suggestion, always verify good wiring and connections.
even wires that look good must be checked for continuity. Esp.
under the right fender comp. module. This is a common thing in
that model.

acmelab

The other day I went to go start my Colt and it cranked just fine, but wouldn't start. I tried it a number of times and even at different times of the day over the course of a couple of days. The battery is good and just to be sure I also put it on a charger to ensure that it's 100%. I tried disconnecting the intake and using starting fluid and it still didn't catch, so I started checking for ignition. I checked the plugs and the wiring all seems good, but I don't get a spark. A couple of people said that since the car seems to crank fine, that it might be the Crank Position Sensor gone bad. Supposedly if this goes bad, the computer has no idea when to initiate a spark and so it doesn't. Does this sound plausible and if so, does anyone know where I would find this sensor and how to check it? I'd also be curious to see if anyone thinks it's something else.

stevedar7

This has been a persistant problem now for the past three years. In 04 is was the fuel pump that was replaced as well as the fuel filter, also the distributor cap and spark plugs were replaced. Blazer ran fine for a year, but more or less a year later same problem. Replace the distributor cap and plugs again. This worked fine no problems again. Now again more or less one year to the date the blazeer giving me problems again. Checked for spark, fuel pressure, both good. Fuel pump runs gages come up normal all electrical works fine. This problem usually only occurs during the winter, i don't ever remember having starting problems in the summer. Also it is sporadic with deciding to start. One day it will start no problem the next day it doesn't run all day. Someone please help me with this problem before I take it to a mechanic and get hosed. Thank you

snowflake77

some times it well start but most of the time when i turn it over it trys to start but it doesnt ...and i never give it gas but i can smell gass... so it floods it self... can you help me please...

mlisa402

Hi, I am new to this and still trying to learn. Just wanted to start here by saying hello. I am a single mother with a 19 year old daughter thats trying to start college. We have been thru some ruff road due to my daughter having health problems. She has a cyst on her pineal gland in which is located in the center of the brain. It's not holding fluid and has not grown any but it's still there and we just keep close eye on it with MRI's. I a having truck issues and don't know what to do due to I really do not have the money to put it in the shop. They want $85 per hour to diginose and then what ever it will cost to fix. It started with truck missing so did take it to a shop and they put on a machine that said it was the #4 plug and coil. They said I should change all plugs and to do so it will be $552. This was at a goodyear shop but I know people at a different location that as well is a goodyear but different owners and they said they would do the same work for $360 so I went there. They tried to put it on machine as well to double check other shop and could not get it to read. The plug thing that is under dash by steering wheel stopped working they said. To make long story short to check them they changed the #4 plug and coil and it fixed the miss in truck. I am supposed to get other plugs done but before I could go back I made a trip to Louisiana for 2 days. Truck ran fine there until I went to leave to go back to Georgia the truck wouldn't crank, just turned over. Was told fuel pump was out so put new one on and as well a fuel filter and it was fixed and went back to GA. After I made it back the truck ended up not cranking again just turned over. Was told had a defective fuel pump so before the 2nd pump was put of We check to see if fuel was going thru filter and it was not. Check fuses, relays and they were fine. Truck wouldn't crank. Hours later when the mechanic came to replace pump he first tried to crank and it did. Didn't drive it was night and went to bed. Next day went to leave and it wouldn't crank again so called mechanic and he came changed pump and still no luck. Test power going to pump and it's only getting 6 volts to pump and not 12. Some one told him to jump start the fuel pump to see if it was working and they did and it was. The person said it was my PCM that it needed to be replace but others are telling me no. Even a dealership service department told me it was the PCM but the goodyear place where I know people are telling me not to replace that. I don't know what to do I just know I have a mechanic willing to help for little to nothing on labor but am not sure and either is he not sure on what to do. He's good on replacing parts but not diginostics. PLEASE HELP ME