2005-2007 Toyota Avalon

guest

Hi Roland: I just played around with the "manual" mode and like you, I started on a stick--my dad's new 1953 Ford--I'm that old?!! Seriously, I just push the lever over and downshift into each gear progressively until I get to first. Then I take off, and listen to the engine while checking the tach---it jumps up to 5,000 RPM FAST!! I can't remember the "red line"--somewhere around 6,500 PM--I never go that high in any gear. Take it out and stop--push the gear lever over and downshift to 1st--take off and push the stick forward at about 3,000 RPM--go thru the gears and then push it back over to the automatic mode. Remember, ANYTIME you're in the manual mode , all you have to do is push the stick to the right and you're back in the auto mode. My procedure is to downshift manually into 1st asd i get to the bottom of our steep entry/exit hill and then once I get going, w/o any tranny hesitation, I just push the stick back into auto mode---works everytime! The manual mode is fun--hang on--it goes like a rocket! Like I said--start out SLOW until ya get the hang of it--then you'll be like a "hot rodding" kid agian--it is fun!! Gotta tell ya this, about 5 months ago I was at a stop light and next to me was a "yuppie" in a 5 Series BMW--off we wnet--he got a real nice view of the Avalons tail lights! While parking at Wal-Mart, the guy in the BMW pulled next to me, got out and asked what kind of engine was in the car!! I shwoed him under the hood and he looked over the car and asked the price--I told him I paid around $35K--its a "Loaded" Limited--the only thing it doesn't have is the DVD. He paid over $50K and was needless to say--very irked to get "whupped" by an "old man" in a Toyota! Regarding synthetic oil. I just use high quality regular oil, change my oil every 3 month's and I use an additive called PETRON. You can look it up at www.petronplus.com you can also GOOGLE it----I've been using it since 1993 when I firsr saw it at a Trade Show in Wichita, KS. Its made in Hutchinson, KS--interesting reading. Guy was showing how much better it was than the other oil additives. he was using an electric motor and had a pull lever that after he applied the competitors product you could pull and their products didn't provide enough lubrication and by pulling the lever you could stop the motor. Well. I was born at night, just not last night--so I asked the guy if I could do it. I'm 6'2' and 250 lbs and I figured no way I couldn't stop the motor. I stopped it all right with the competitors products applied--NO WAY could I stop it with the PetronPlus applied. I asked my buddy to try it--same results! Products treats the metal--not the oil. I've talked to many mechanics about Synthetic oil and to a person they said----save your money--do just what you're doing--good quality oil, I use Quaker State--always have, always will, and change it every 3K miles. They did all agree on one point, if you plan on keeping your car for 8-10 years and change your oil according to the manufacturer's spcec--use Synthetic. I plan on keeping the Avy for about 4-5 years and it will only have 35K-45K miles on it. Sorry for being long winded! Good luck!
Bob

wwest

"..."hot rodding" kid again......."

"..."whupped" by an "old man"....."

Reminds me of a story I often heard around airline pilot get-togethers....

There are BOLD pilots...

And there are OLD pilots..

But there are NO OLD and BOLD pilots..

Start acting your age...LIVE longer.

Challenge yourself, not the other guy.

Advice from some one whose stick shift driving experience started with a Ford Ferguson tractor also back in the early fifties.

guest

wwest: WOW--"who licked the chocolate off your M&M's?" Sorry I riled you up--I only had a brief (safe) moment of exhilaration. And yes, it was soooooooo nice to see a "humble" BMW owner.

If this is the 2nd Post I apologize--didn't think the 1st Post went through.

Happy Holidays!
Bob

wwest

"..riled up...", me..?

NOT!

I just get so much fun making the boy-racers think I'm going to "dig out" with them and then sit comfortably, self-confidently KNOWING what my car will do, while they lay rubber.

Additionally, Porsche's are everything but "dragsters".

oilcan2

Just A fast comment,have a 06 Limited and put AMSOIL in at
about 3k,no trouble,have been using it for approx. 25 years.
The most unknowledgeable people you can ask about syn oil
are people who dont use it,this service writer ddoes not have a clue what he's talking about.Are the seals going to
magically be great for syn oil after 15k miles?
Go to the syn oil forums and get feedback from drivers who
use it.

rpfingsten

Oilcan2....My sentiments exactly... I was just unable to figure out why the avy couldn't have a synthetic oil at 5k yet porches, vets and other high performance cars are factory filled with synthetic oil... I think I knew the service writer was full of b.s. all along, but when you spend 30 grand or more on a new car, you want to make sure you don't do anything to hurt the engine... and for me, this being my first Japanese engine, I was just trying to be "doubly" cautious. thanks for your reply.

Roland

bobwiley

Hi Roland: Here's a person that might be able to answer your questions--he's an Engineer on the Society of Automotive Engineers Board. dave@performanceoiltechnology.com---may as well get the info from a "real" expert!! I went to Google and just typed in Synthetic Motor Oil-----lots of info! Good Luck!
Bob

pat

Here's a lot of information for you and another good place to ask questions: Synthetic motor oil.

holyoke

I've had more problems with this avalon in 18 months then I had with my 96 avalon in 9 years. In the last 3 months I've had a fuel sensor replaced, a torn CV boot replaced, a moon roof seal replaced and now an oil line near the timing belt needs replacement. Their commercial says to "ask someone who owns one". They don't want to ask me. That's for sure!

jlsexton

Do you have a Lemon Law?

I would pursue it that way if possible. I owned a 99 Camry, it had NO problems but that vehicle had been out for several years and all the flukes were out of the design. So far my 2006 Limited is great but for the mushy brakes and as often stated the USELESS remote start. It is a great car for $32,000 when compared to others costing much more. Hopefully I will be spared your problems. If all else fails SUE, something I would do as a last resort.

bobwiley

jlsexton: Agree about the Remote Start. I liken the Remote Start and the Nav System the same--CRAP. Test drove a Lucerne when deciding on which car to buy---the Buick's Remote Start worked from far, far away--every time! I practically have to be on top of our 06 Limited in order for the Remote Start to work. I've tried it with an unobstructed view in a Wal Mart parking lot and even parked in our driveway and just going about 100 feet across the street--nothing happens!! Get close--it works. Next trip to the dealer I'm going to address the issue. Just wondering what experience others are having with the Remote Start?
Bob

nidal

Avalon& ES350 have same engin.

Avalon HP 268 as per toyota Site
ES350 HP 272 as per toyota Site

Avalon Tras. speeds 5- Curb W. 3595
ES350 Trans. Speeds 6- Curb W. 3580

BUT
Avalon 0-100KM is flat 6sec. as per toyota Site ( Faster )
ES350 0-100KM is flat 6.8sec. as per toyota Site

how come Avalon is afster and it is less power, Less Speeds. I dont think 15 lb makes the deffirence

But the ES350 has 6 speed

smith1

The difference in 0-60 acceleration figures probably arises from different transmission gearing, final drive ratios and engine tuning. All can be tweaked to favor standing start acceleration over mid-range passing ability and top end performance.

It is a bit odd that Lexus marketing would allow the ES to have the less impressive 0-60 time, since that's the performance parameter that generally gets the most attention.

jlsexton

Please let me know if you get anywhere as I've tried many times and many people, all the way up to corporate. You never mentioned the fact that after you start it from about 20 feet as soon as you enter it shuts off, how STUPID is that or is it only mine that works that way.

captain2

the best 0-60 time I've seen for the Avalon - 6 flat by Car & Driver, 0-100km (62 mph)in 6 sounds like an outrageous (un-toyotalike) claim, given how much these enthusiast mags. abuse a car to get those kind of results in the first place. I estimate that I can comfortably get 7 out of my Touring and it is plenty fast enough.

mem4

So you would rather have your car running in a parking lot warming up, someone walks by, breaks the window, gets in and drives away? What difference does it make if the car shuts down when you unlock and open the door? All you have to do is re-start it and you are ready to go.

abfisch

I couldn't agree more. Ummm. I had to piggyback your reply, as I find it amazing, that people would really priortize how the 0-60MPH time would be high on the list, in comparison to anything. These are nice vehicles, but they are not 0-60MPH vehicles. If anyone wants "the launch", buy a 400hp Pontiac GTO. Useable power and torque to get onto a highway, sustain the highest legal speed even on long grades, and passing mid range power, are all as Americans we are ever going to need or want, especially in a front weight biased front driver.

Not sure why anything else is so important to some. Better mileage with the same horsepower and useable torque would be a highlight.

abfisch

jlsexton

I usually don't respond to uninformed replies but since it's the Christmas Season I will be nice.

First off, the doors lock, second I have a Limited with keyless entry, so if someone should do as you stated the vehicle would turn off and thirdly, the purpose of a remote start is to warm up or cool off a vehicle without being near it, not to wear out the VERY expensive starter. Again it is an inane setup, VERY difficult to use and not befitting Toyota's presumed quality standards, enough said.

oilcan2

Have 06 Limited,lost one smart key,got a good used key from
internet,the dealer in Corpus Christi tried but claim they
cannot program it, any ideas.

mem4

I'm sorry maybe I misunderstood your complaint about the current way the remote start works. You are correct, currently the car will shut down when the doors are unlocked and you need a key or the smart key to re-start the car. If you don't like it as it is what would you like changed? I thought you didn't like the fact that the car shut down and had to be re-started so I assumed you wanted the car to stay running when the doors are opened. If that were the case, the car is already running so no key or smart key is needed by a thief to drive off with your car after he breaks the window and reaches in and unlocks the door. He may not be able to re-start it later but by then he has stripped it and left it for junk anyway.

Also, may new hubrids shut down every time you come to a stop, like at a traffic light and re-start the engine when you begin to move again. I haven't' heard of their starters failing prematurely.

captain2

what many folks don't realize, that a number of these V6 powered sedans will outrun many of those 'muscle cars' of yesteryear (look it up - many older GTOs, RRs, Mustangs etc. would test in the 7s and over 15s quarters) and use less than half of the gas doing it. Remarkable. This poster seemed to be inquiring on the basis of 'drag racing' an Avalon - a novel and ridiculous suggestion.

fredv1

Please help in telling me how to deactivate the pinging seat belt alarm on my 2005 XL. The procedures mentioned in July were for a Limited and did not work for me. Thank You

bobwiley

jlsexton: You're right--it does shut off when you open the door. I tried it again yesterday at a Wal Mart parking lot---totally clear view for over 100 ft--NOTHING@ but the click click click #%^&*()()!!!&^% It is useless. I remember a friend having one back in the mid-60's----you could be in the restaurant over 100 feet away and it worked. We used to have fun sitting there and starting the car as people walked by and watching thier reaction. But, $450 for the Toyota Remote Start is a JOKE!
Bob

jlsexton

The one in my Camry, $150, would start the car at over 200 feet but it did have an antennae. It locked and opened all doors and would shut off the car if no key was in the ignition and you tried to drive it, safe enough for me. Another complaint, those DAMN buttons were made for elves, not men. If I were a woman and just spent $30 on a manicure I would sue their butts off as the ONLY way I can use them is with my fingernails. My fault for wanting GENUINE Toyota acessories. Of course the only remote I actually saw was not keyless entry, I blame the car store for not telling people. A $450 item compared to a return sale is just plain stupid. Good luck trying to get somewhere.

tjc78

This procedure worked on my XLS....

1) Turn the Car On, Do not start the engine (Leave your foot off the brake). Cycle your trip reset knob until you it reads ODO. Turn the ignition back off. Wait a couple of seconds.

2) Make sure seat belt is not fastened

3) Turn the ignition back on, do not start the car (Leave your foot off the brake) As soon as you see everything light up, press and hold the trip reset knob and do a long 12 second count.

4) Keep your finger on the trip reset knob. Fasten your seat belt, as soon as you fasten your seat belt, you should see the ODO display go from XXXX miles to "b-on". At that time take your finger off the trip reset knob and press it again. It should cycle to "b-off". You should be all set, turn the ignition off and unfasten your seat belt.

rpfingsten

Fred... are you sure that method you described works on shutting that annoying seat belt chime off... My wifes gmc envoy chimes 5 times, my oldsmobile that I traded in on this 07 avy chimed 5 times... the avy.... an annoying 59 times. also, does that proceedure you described have any other effect on the car or it's features? also, how are you supposed to hold the trip odometer in and fasten your seatbelt at the same time...

Roland

tjc78

The procedure absolutely works. It has no effect on anything else that I know of. Its not easy to hold the button in and fasten the belt, but it can be done.

fredv1

TJC, Thanks for taking the time to write out the precise steps necessary to banish the electronic Nanny. Your procedure worked the very first time. I believe in seat belt use, but don't like to be nagged about it.

fredv1

Roland, I enlisted my wife to be the "third hand". The process took about half a minute. It can of course be reversed, but we sure don't miss that annoying pinging. Give it a try. Fred

tjc78

Glad it worked. I cannot take credit for it, I believe I originally got it here or another forum.

ronharv

I had posted about this (along with the other seven or eight defects that the dealer repaired on my '05 XL) around the middle of last month. The dealer was told that a new steering column assembly would arrive around Dec. 15. A month's wait? Not that I had a choice. Now I'm told that so many steering asemblies are needing replacement that my spot in line means I won't be getting it until mid to late February. While I've been assured that there's no safety problem, my wife doesn't believe them, even though there's no play in the steering yet. The dealer said they'd loan us an '07 Camry at my wife's option. The service manager's a good guy and doesn't want her concerned, even if it's not justified. But a three month wait for a part!?? Geez!

rpfingsten

one more quick question about resetting that damn seat belt chime...when you cycle the trip odometer back to odom.. you mean so that the actuall "overall" mileage on the car is in the display, not the mileage on the "trip" display, correct. also, my odometer is not digital, so will it actuall change to "b-on and b-off" and will it have any effect on the number of miles shown on the odometer display.. i guess what Im asking there is, once the procedure is done, does the odometer go back into odometer setting? thanks again for your help.

Roland

smith1

After 300 miles, I'm impressed with just about everything. No transmission hesitation, no rattles, no other defects so far.

My only disappointment is that the car reacts a lot more to road imperfections than I expected or remember from my (admittedly brief) test drives. The ride is very smooth on smooth pavement, but small bumps are not well "smothered" and cause the vehicle to pitch from side to side. My previous car, a 2003 Passat, transmitted less motion from bumps to the passenger compartment than this Avalon does. My tires are at the correct pressure.

Other than that, I'm very pleased.

abfisch

smith1:

"Pitch" is the key word in your posting. It is a function of the dampers(struts). I have an XL to, vintage 2002. Put aftermarket low pressure gas, twin tubes dampers on along time ago, as I had similar complaints. The problem resolved immediately.

abfisch

jlsexton

What brand of tires are on the XL. I have Michelin on my limited but with the VERY low profile I do FEEL some bumps. I prefer 70 series way over these 55's.

smith1

Good suggestion, but it doesn't appear anyone is making aftermarket struts for the current generation Avalon yet. At least, I haven't seen any on the net. Hopefully they'll be coming soon.

smith1

My XL has 215/60R-16 Potenzas. I believe some have Michelins, in the same size.

ange

MY 2005 Avalon hesitates at slow speeds. There is no way you can drive smooth without the jump or hesitation.

My dealer service man tells me Toyota is working on a fix.

I was dealing on a 2007 camry for my wife. The same service manager told me the same hesitation exists withe camry and toyota was working on it. That was enough for me, we ended up with a left over nisson altima with a $4000 discount. This my way of complaining to toyota. Their corporate reply was to go to the dealer with my complaints. This is my first toyota and it will be my last one. Toyota is getting too big and they refuse to listen to their customers. Would a
class action suit re the transmission to get their attention? Anyone have any other ideas to get results?

ange

jlsexton

I keep hearing about a tranny problem, just what exactly is happening, pwehaps I don't have it or merely accept it as normal but mine seems fine it is a 2006. You are right about their ARROGANCE but it will come back to bite them. American manufacturers need to simply make BETTER cars and people will return. They complain about competing and workers benefits but never CUT the big boys bonuses or salaries.

beeman4u

Hi everyone I'm back. Here's an update. I installed the Sylvania Silver Star lights and the results are such. "there is no difference in my factor lights vs these which are advertised as WHITE or a close similarity to HID whiteness. I'm not sure what the 07 XLS has, but its makes no sense to have HID on the Limited and Touring but not the XLS.

jlsexton

I have a 2006 Limited. The low beams are great, the high beams do nothing as far as I'm concerned. I assume they have to give you something for the extra money you pay for a Limited.

ange

I have been using STP, 1 pint per oil change, in two past Crown Victoria's. Each had over 180,000 miles and did not use oil.

I was convinced that synthetic oils reduced friction by an engineer at a utility station. He was operating 4 700HP electric moters turning a speed up gearbox. He changed gear oil in one and added regular oil, and in the second unit added the ratio of STP. He then took the amp readings on both before and after oil changes. The amp readings were significantly lower at the the
STP motor and barely noticable in the regular gear oil run unit. This engineer was buying STP in 55 gal. drums. This was measurable and convincing mostly because of the big motors.

I don't know if anyone has run some kind of measurable test in car engines, but if sensitive enough equipment is used there should be some positive friction reduction.

There are alot of gimmics used at auto shows and other auto activities to demonstrate super products.

One trick I saw was waxing a car hood and setting it on fire to demonstrate how tough the wax was. The person waxed the hood, added water and gasoline or some othe flameable liquid, and set it on fire. The water separated on the syurface while flameable liquid burned on top of the water. The water kept the paint cool.

Another gimmic is placing an electric motor,while running in a bucket of water, it continues to operate without sparking. While the moisture-waterproof additive sprayed on the drill resisted the water conact, the big reason, distilled water was used and it does not conduct electricity.

The oil additive people use all sorts of demonstrations to sell their products. I believe most products aid in reducing friction, the measurable benefit may be difficult to proove.

Many oil refineries have used their employees to evaulate the motor additives used. They would provide free oil-filter changes and most importantly, measure the engine metals found in the oil. This is used in hugh 1000-- 3000HP engines. They change oil based on the scheduled oil testing.

To end--I believe the synthefic additives and oils do provide car engine benifits. ange

chua-san

The weight distribution for Avalon is about 60F / 40R. Does this take into consideration with full tank of gas? I am just wondering the "real world" weight distribution compare to the spec sheet. Please post your message if you have any knowledge about this issue. Thank you

chua-san

Could driving style cause the tranny hesitation because the Avalon's transmission could "learn" your style? For example, I always keep the RPM low at all gears. When I reach a stop sign and I generally do a "rolling stop" (as long as there's no cops around) :P , and then I will tap the acceleration just a lil to keep the vehicle moving forward. At that moment, there's a slight hesitation from the engine. Is this a normal behavior? Do you guys think this hesitation will go away if I downshift using sequential shift? So far it doesn't bother me but I would like to hear your opinion. Thanks

9119911

You're right, the high beams on the 2006 Limited do nothing,any speed above 60 at night is pushing your luck. It appears the distance and distribution are incorrect. Low beams' do not shift to right of road when dimmed.

Transmission hesitation continues to be a problem, lawsuit in progres,but,so far, nothing settled. Listening to other replies and knowing how Toyoto responded to my problem, it may take forever. I would like for readers to understand, when I say Toyota,I am excluding the dealer. They did all they could to repair the vehicle. The problem is inherent in certain series and Toyota knows it exists and refuses to do anything about it. I wait for someone to crash into me as I attempt to merge, or, for me to leap into the rear of someone while accelerating.I have registered the problem with National Safety for whatever good that did..to ny knowledge they have done no more than sent a questionnaire to fill out, and I did ...nothing since.

To those having transmission hesitation problems, don't let up...keep complaining. Some of you are probably like me...my first Avalon (usually drive Cadillac's) can't go back to Caddy because of the investment and potential trade loss. I hope for a settlement each day so I can move to a better and safer auto.

Cheers

bobwiley

9119911: About 4-5 month's ago I sent a complaint to the National Highway Safety Transportation Agency (NHSTA) and at least you got a questionaire! I figured maybe they had the same email address as FEMA--so they might be back logged! I'm tired of waiting for a fix so I fixed the hesitation problem myself--i just slip the gear shift to the "S' mode and downshift to 1 or 2 and when I get going--just push it back into the D mode--works EVERY TIME!! I been driving over 50 years, no accidents that were my fault and I'll be "damned" if I'm buying a car with an MSRP of near $39K (06 loaded Limited) and then have to worry about how my toe touches the gas peddle. I love the car, so I'll live with the "manual" shifting for our safety's sake! Also agree about the headlights--they are CRAP on high beams!
Bob

wwest

Just be careful to not "downshift" manually if the roadbed is a bit slippery, especially while you're still on the brakes for slowing. The new shift pattern was adopted late in the last century to prevent engine compression braking on FWD or front torque biased AWD vehicles from resulting in loss of directional control should the roadbed be slippery.

Obviously it also has great(er) potential for interfering with ABS activity in those conditions, conditions for which ABS is MOST desired. The anti-lock system can release/reduce the actual braking force but cannot overcome the braking force of the engine should it be present.

jlsexton

The high beams are standard lights not HID's. The bright white light of the low beams spoils the yellow output of the highbeam, as in almost not existing. Since I try NOT to drive much at dusk or night because of the deer population it does not effect me too much but if I were commuting down to Manhattan as before I would dump the low beams and install something for off use from J.C. Whitney.

dcboater

All - my apologies for not having participated on the board for quite some time - I have just about given up on my formerly beloved 2006 Avy Limited. After 20,000 miles of driving, the rattles have been getting the best of me, and now it seems, my dealer (Koons Arlington, VA) as well.

The major incurable problem is the incessant rattling (only when cold weather) in the Sunroof/Moonroof area. The car has been at the dealer 4 times for this, the last time for 10 days, still without an acceptable fix. The rattle now is evident even on slight pavement strips. The dealer just gave the car back to me this past Saturday after removing the entire wind deflector assembly and saying "try this and we'll take it from there".

Well, needless to say, the same rattle persists. I can force upward pressure with my hand on the front passenger side of the headliner and the rattle will stop. Now, to make things worse, they have dented the top of the roof, next to the sunroof opening - this after they had to repaint (pearl White) the driver's side after scraping the car on the 15,000 mile service. YIKES !!!

Can anyone help me in regards to the following:

1. Is there any sort of a TSB or dealer notification of how they can remedy this rattle?

2. I'm also getting an anoying "clunk" type rattle from the steering column - any news on this?

3. Have there been any updates to the correct transmission hesitation problem ?

4. Has anyone had any luck in getting ANY compensation or "gimme's" from Toyora corporate in regards to the several flaws with this car?

Just to think, I was a 12 year loyal Infiniti Q-45 owner before ordering what I thought was a technologically superior and "hopefully" quality built car. Now I REALLY KNOW, "you get what you pay for". Shame, because the engine and interior on this car are quite superb.

I appreciate in advance any feedback and I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday.

Thanks,
dcboater

doobre

This is how I put my complaint to the Toyota dealer here in Dubai:

"The overwhelming problem with this vehicle is the transmission; this was the source of my very first problem on the very first day of ownership. This car is consistently plagued by throttle lag/hesitation and the transmission is unable to provide a reliable ‘luxury car’ automatic gear changing solution, especially when in stop/start or in low speed traffic.

The automatic transmission will more often than not make the wrong choice for the car speed and road conditions and will result in unnecessary revving of the engine, jolting the car forward or doing nothing at all. When light pressure is applied to the accelerator pedal in an attempt smoothly accelerate, it is impossible to predict what will happen, making it very difficult to drive smoothly and tiresome to have to be constantly ‘on your guard’ to compensate.

It is literally anyone’s guess which one of the below options it may take. It may not react at all…. no increase in the revs or drive to the wheels and do nothing for a few seconds just as if I was not even pushing on the pedal.

The below are all possible and this is after putting up with the throttle lag/hesitation period;

1. It may allow the engine to rev up to 2,500rpm and with no drive going to the wheels, (even when the road speed is already high enough to allow a change), hold this moment in ‘limbo’ and then slowly change the gear.
2. It may hold a shorter period of revving in ‘limbo’ and suddenly bump the gear in, causing a jolt of forward movement in the vehicle.
3. It may take the ‘huge thud’ option and try to break itself (and the driver).
4. It may accelerate normally (but only after the throttle lag/hesitation period.)

The problem is most noticeable in stop/start and low speed traffic but the transmission will often let the engine rev unnecessarily when accelerating while travelling at an already reasonable speed (60-80kmph). A point at which the car’s momentum should be more than sufficient to use the torque of the engine and not need to use the revs."

and the reply:

"Whilst the gear shift pattern does not suit your personal preferences, the performance across the full and varied condition range tested was to standard"..........

and what a "standard"..!!
cheers CD