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I agree with Joel.. Call up the finance guy, and tell them you need to know how much to make the check out for..
That will tell the tale...
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Ummm, Tundras and Tacomas are Toyota, not Honda.
So, I'm trying to get the price I want on a Habanero Red, 4 door model, base model (no navi, summer tires or dealer installs). MSRP $21,885, dealer invoice $20,076.
I've ordered the Consumer Reports Price Report. They say to start negotiating at $19,437 (Dealer Invoice - Dealer Holdback).
Is that the best thing to do? Just walk in/Call/Email and open the negotiations at $19,437?
I've read, on these boards, people have gotten the car for as low as 20,280. That's my goal to get. I'd love a flat $20,000. Realistic? I've watched, since it's introduction in Nov. 06, stock build up on the lots. Financing is pretty good for Civics right now. I was going to wait until the summer to buy, but 4.9% saves a bunch over the typical 7.9% they were quoting me in January. Plus, I'm enamored with this car... I've researched and oggled since I saw a Fiji blue model in the showroom back in December...
I can wait... but I don't want to anymore!
Anyway. Any advice? Should I adjust expectations? Or stick to my goal?
Thanks in advance.
Also with the financing double check if the 4.9% applies to the Civic Si as well, because we have low advertised rates on all Civics EXCEPT the Hybrid or Si.
As for your goal, if you have a saleperson that you worked with or that helped you out, go to him first and present your offer and see what you can get.
If you have no such salesperson, then email some dealerships in your area and see what the best price you can get. Make sure you specify the color and model, and if they have it in stock you will have a better chance of getting a good deal as they don't have to locate it.
Hope this helps.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Am I being too hard on the dealer here? The carsdirect target price for this car is $28.8k. The dealer is not budging from his valuation of the vehicle. He has no 07's on the lot, and one other '06 with GT package.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
How much of the $3k rebate comes out of the dealers pocket? I thought this was a manufacturers incentive? It sounds to me like he basically is just taking $900 off his MSRP (minus Mazda-enforced rebate which I'm assuming any Mazda dealership would give me on an 06 RX-8). Do Mazda (and other manufacturers) typically insist a dealer gets rid of his current allocation of previous year models before he can get the latest model years in as an incentive?
His current price is 1k below original invoice...but does the rebate apply to the invoice price as far as the dealer is concerned?
The carsdirect target price and KBB value for this vehicle is $28.8k. He's 2k over that. On an 06!
One is basically consumer dollars (rebate) where there is amandatory discount. Sometimes all of the rebate comes from the manufacturer, and sometimes the dealers have to chip in from the gross (like we have on the Accords right now in BC, $1500 tot rebate, $500 from our pocket, $1000 from Honda).
The other one is trading dollars where it's applied to the invoice and basically increases the gross of the deal. These are usually not advertised.
If your Mazda has a rebate where the dealer contributes money, then you might be out of luck. But I'm surprised they won't move anymore on the price though.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Is the carsdirect and KBB price for a used one? That would explain the difference. But sometimes dealers won't deal on something you'd expect them to. I couldn't get even a nickel off of an 06 Tundra that was a demo with 6K miles. They wanted the same price as an identical new one with 33 miles on it.
good luck!
-thene
Any car from last year that has a $3K rebate should be selling for invoice minus the rebate, at the maximum ..
If he doesn't want to deal, just let it go...
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I have tried emailing, but they are quick to respond to the initial email and then want to keep all discussions based on price to the phone. So, getting something in writing is tough.
To be honest, I'd rather stick to email. I hate using the phone.
If they don't want to give you an email price, that's how it is.
If you want to buy a car, compute your own OTD price, go to the dealer, and make an offer. ALways works for me.
Arron wasn't complaining. Only stating facts... i.e getting something in writing is tough(it is)and he would like to stick to e-mail. Sheesh.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Translation: I'm not all that confident with my position so I'll resort to posturing.
How about a little less posturing and a little more aplomb?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
But Aaron, he does make a good point. If someone isn't responding the way you want them to (such as conversing with you via Email), you might have to adjust your behavior. Maybe try another dealer, or another method.
IMO, you will be better off (and save a lot of time) if you make a personal appearance. Dealers are loath to let a live one walk out the door. So, if you scope out the place to make sure that they really do have a bunch of Sis hidden in the back, you are in a position to deal.
You really have nothing to lose by going in, picking out the one you want, and making an offer. 20K might be too aggressive, but the best way to find out is to make the offer. Be real clear that you are really to buy on the spot if they hit your price. Or start a few hundred less if you want some room to negotiate.
The key is to remember that there are lots of Honda dealers around, and to be ready to walk out. If they laugh at your price, or make you feel uncomfortable or unsure, get up and leave. You can always go back, or to another dealer.
And don't be afraid to say you want to go off and think about the deal. Generally safer than signing papers on the spur of the moment when you aren't sure what you are getting into.
Oh, and don't be too surprised if you don't get the discount financing rate. There often are qualification requirements (certain credit score), so not everyone qualifies. Not a bad idea to be pre qualified at your bank or CU, so at least you have a benchmark.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
IMO, posturing weakens one's case.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
To be honest going the e-mail route may be a tough row to hoe. Many sales people here say they don't like to do th e-mail for various reasons. Mainly they are afraid that the person will take it to other dealers and ask them to beat it.
You may want to consider a visit to a few dealerships and trying to get their price.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
The last two times I bought (2005 and 2006) I did the initial contact via e-mail then I made a phone call to get the final price. Don’t expect their best price via e-mail but you should get a pretty good starting price that way but only if the dealers in your area are willing to go along with the e-mail approach. Sooner or later you’re going to have to talk to someone and you can’t finalize the deal via e-mail or phone. To do that you’re going to have to go to the dealership but once you have done your research the hard part is done.
Don’t worry about sitting at the negotiating table, it’s your money, therefore, you’re the boss. If you don’t like what they’re saying, WALK.!!!!!
Don’t make this car buying process difficult because it isn’t.
Take your time and let us know how you make out.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
You are talking Lexus, which is a different story.
Last year, I was looking for an FY'07 RX330 in Chicagoland for the fleet. We sent out the RFPs from six dealerships and received the same price from all of them.
Can't see why you are having problems finding a price on the Tundra as they are discounting them in many markets.
Personally, in I were a dealership selling what is a work truck, I would not respond either. So many buyers *THINK* they know what they want and end up with a vehicle that does not do what they need it to do,
Also, if you spec'd out the truck, there is a VERY GOOD chance that they do not have a truck with those specifications. I spent four weeks looking for a Ford F150 extended cab 8 ft bed in Vancouver. I finally found two of them that were pretty similar - one in Calgary and the other in Toronto.
Personally, I like to use the internet to identify target cars, then call or stop by the dealerships.
If you want to get quotes by email, try reading "Internet vs Traditional Car Buying" or "Dealers Too Busy for Online Shoppers".
You may also want to search for posts by abraindrainer. The basic idea is to email 30-40 dealers, obviously including many outside the buyer's geographic area. This creates a database of prices being offered, after negotiation if you desire. The lowest price may not be the best choice due to the distance, as travel time or shipping costs need to be considered.
I like this idea, because it allows to buyer to find the sellers' different price points in the same way that negotiation allows the seller to find buyers' different price points. Like the Bobst Method, this works best for cars in ample supply.
Stickguy, your comments are appreciated. You stated the same thing Bob was trying to say, but in a more civilized manor.
A few freinds, neighbors, and posters advice has been deal with email, then get to the phone, and that is my preferred method. I really don't want my phone ringing off the hook for days. I have made a few calls, but phone calls just seem so inefficient. I do understand the reasoning why dealers don't want to deal with email, can't say I blame them.
I'm not the typical spur of the moment buyer. It's taken a long time to narrow the choices down to this one car, color, option combination. It's a long term purchase. I honestly do plan on running this car into the ground.
Right now, we have the upper hand in the deal. Running cars and money in the bank. (I really hate taking any money out of the bank.) I just want to be sure I get a comparable deal to what's going on in the real world. Why pay more than what the other people are paying for the same product? It's not a matter of getting it into the affordable range. (yes, very cheap people here.)
But, like you did say... 20k might be too aggressive. The Consumer Reports stuff I've read said start negotiating from the lowest point (19,500). It just seems starting that low is just going to get a big laugh and a quick walk out the door. But that's the strategy they seem to suggest. Just wanted a few opinions on what the experienced negotiators had on the prices and that method. So far, I haven't come across anybody that has gone that route.
Anyways, like I said... never bought a new car before. The most I spent on a car was $3800 and that was like 15 years ago (still have that car too). The wife bought a new car 8 years ago (still drive that one too) and she always felt she could have gotten a better deal. I really don't want to drive off the lot and feel like I'm paying an extra grand that I really didn't need to pay. But I also don't want to walk off the lot thinking I could get another grand off, have no car, wasted my time, go somewhere else and find out that I can't match the deal I was offered.
I can see why people hate the process. Figuring out what you want is fun, but negotiating sucks!
There is no harm done if this happens, you just go back and get that deal. Happens all the time. Once you have proven that you can't get your price you will know what the market conditions are for that car in that area at that time.
I hope you're not going to say your pride won't allow you to go back, because then no one here can help you.
Market conditions at any given time ALWAYS dictates the selling price.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
I don't think any of the grown-up car buyers in this DG hate the process. We all love the process of car buying.
I agree that negotiating sucks. Thats why I don't do it.
I suggest you stop worrying about what you don't want to do.
Life is a lot more enjoyable when you decide exactly what you want to do and then do it.
If I were you I'd give them a first crack at earning your business.
I always appreciate if customers are straight up with me about their intentions (price shopping, etc).
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Any thoughts from the experts?
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
You come back, they assume you couldn't "beat it". Now, if they bump you, from that price, you can always walk...yet, again. But, I believe if you're close on price, they won't let you walk (or at least let you drive away). Different story if you're too far apart, though.
I'm sure someone from the sales side will be able to give you a bit more insight as to their thought process when they believe you're shopping "all over town".
We just see the same things posted over and over again. As "snake" is likely to say, "you aren't negotiating the Louisianna Purchase" when negotiating for a car.
My guess is, you're negotiating on a car that's not distressed merchandise (Civic). So, you might be dismissed pretty quickly with your Consumer Reports advice. Knowing the market for the car you're interested in can go a long way in getting to a deal. Does the dealer have lots of stock in the car you're interested in? Are they a high volume dealer?
You might want to find a dealership/salesperson you're comfortable with....one you trust. Pick out the exact car you want from their stock. Invoice minus holdback isn't going to get their attention. There's nothing in it for them and they know that they can find a buyer that is willing to pay more.
You can start negotiations at invoice, but the dealer isn't going to bite at that, either. So, if you want to make it quick and easy (as well as getting a good deal), decide how much over invoice you're willing to pay. Make your offer. Dealer says "yea" or "nay". If it's "nay", thank them for their time and leave. Try again somewhere else. IF no one bites on your offer, you know you're going to have to readjust it. Try again.
Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for asking. I think they are trying to bump you up. You're probably familiar with the old farmers adage, " ya don't know what's in a old pickle barrel till ens ya get the lid off"? Well, the dealership is trying to get in your head man. Hold firm on your offer. The priced they offered yesterday will be accepted today. Unless, of course it's one of those crazy pricing mistakes you read about from time to time.
Most sane people are going to discount what someone is saying when they start out with, " When you grow up..."
Unless Aaron is 16 years old, and bobst is his daddy, then it is rude and unacceptable to be speaking to someone in such a manner.
I think it's fairly obvious that if someone pursues all options of getting a quote via e-mail, and still doesn't get and acceptable quote, then they will have to go into a dealership, or call on the phone.
The interior is in great shape but there are alot of dings on the doors. the windshield has a small crack. does it pay to have it detailed- I would think so?
Very true, not trying to negotiate the Louisiana Purchase.
But, at this point, hard to say if the car is distressed. From some reports... yes it is. Just from my own search of dealer inventory of the 4 door SIs, there seems to be quite a few on the lot. But maybe they are just getting them on the lot, expecting more demand in the spring. Of course, dealers would never admit a certain model is stalling out on the lot.
So far, found a couple dealers that seem fine to deal with and one that just seems a little cocky. I received initial offers, and I guess it's just a matter of hitting the pavement and working out a deal with either one of them.
As far as the Consumer Reports pricing, that's really where I'm not sure to start with the haggling. I only imagine whipping out a copy of that would be greeted with a laugh. So, that's probably a bad starting point.
Right now I've been quoted $600 over invoice. It doesn't seem to bad, I suppose. I guess we'll just jump in the fire and make a reasonable offer.
How can you not at least try to make an offer when the dealer makes the comment we'll match or beat any reasonable price? Just seems like that's inviting some kind of response.
2 weekends left in the month, it's pretty much go time.
Bascially I want to make sure I persue and find out all the options before I buy. I always like hearing from people experienced with a subject.
My friends who bought new or used vehicles seemed like they were more along for the ride when they buy their cars. Shopping by monthly payments, leasing to get lower payments, rolling over old car loans into new car loans, not getting the vehicle they really want, feeling like the left money on the table, etc.
I'd at least like to have an idea of what's going on. How can you make a deal if you don't understand the process?
If you've done all your research, double check it to be sure of your numbers. Then go to the dealer on the 28th of the month. This will give you time to go to another dealer if not satisfied and this gives the dealer/s time to call you back (if you walked) when they have to meet their end of the month numbers. They always seem to perk up when the month is slipping away so don't panic.
As for leaving money on the table don't worry about this because you will. It's impossible for them to give everything away unless like I mentioned above you hit them square on the sweet spot at the end of the month and they will do almost anything to get a sale so as to not loose bonus money but I still wouldn't count on them giving the car away. If they meet your price, what more can you ask for?
Just keep in mind that other buyers may be doing the same thing and your first choice of color and options may be sitting in someone elses garage if the stars don't align.
You've waited this long, therefore, you might want to be a little more patient.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
If yours is a "reasonable" offer you can always let them "bump" you once or twice to near what the most is you are willing to pay. But, if you're going to let them bump you twice, have the price of the second bump less than the first. And don't let them bump you in large increments(like $500-$1,000) Have your price to where you'll "let" them bump you $300 the first time, then maybe $150... if that's how you want to play it. Or, do the one price take it or leave it offer.
You don't have to offer any justification for your offer, maybe other than to say based on extensive research you've determined the price to be XYX.
If you've got the time, read some of the discussions in the Smart Shoppers board on negotation strategy and buying tips. I think most any of your concerns will be addressed.
But, take your time, stick to your guns... and you'll do fine.
Sounds to me that this particular buyer would be better served by using the bobst method of buying.
If they don't bite, you've got to make up your mind whether you want to hit other dealerships to see if the want to make the deal.
Let us know how it goes.
But the question is what constitutes an absurd offer?
Take $2k off of MSRP on a 2008 Lexus RX350 with nav system (4% off of MSRP) and that will be an absurd offer.
Take $2k off a 2001 Taurus with an asking price of $9k (20% off of asking) gets you a deal.
The key is doing the research.