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Cadillac Owners: Problems & Solutions
Cadillac owners of all years and models, share your mechanical expertise.
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Comments
You MUST have a manual release in there somewhere.
What is probably happening is that on your car the primary brake system and ABS system are not being bleed at the same time. In some early ABS you need a tool (like a meter) to recycle the ABS pump so that all the old fluid and air is purged out of the ENTIRE system. So I think your ABS pump is continually contaminating your brake system because you can't control it.
I don't know what the GM tech was thinking unless you've run your ABS pump while it was dry. That would not be good.
But I don't see why a good GM tech couldn't go through all the bleeding procedures and see what's what from there.
This morning, same hour, it's working. This is the second time in about a month for this new, intermittent problem.
Any ideas? Any solutions?
(I also posted this on the general forum for cadillac).
the parking break by pulling a little lever located right next to were the foot lever
connects to the floor on the right its about 2 inches long pull this forward twards yourself and it will release.
Any comments or guidance would be appreciated.
The 1954 used a bulletproof HEAVY four speed Hydramatic.
In 1961, they were using a POS transmission called a Roto Hydramatic also known as a "Slim Jim". It won't fit.
Try to find an "old timer" in a transmission shop who can overhaul the transmission you have in your car. Do NOT go to one of the "chains" for this!
I have a 1994 Cadillac De-ville with a 4.9 V8. When motor is warm and I accelerate or backing off the accelerator it makes a rattle noise (sounds like valves). the noise sounds like we are using cheap gas but we only put in premium. The car runs great with lots of power, but the noise is annoying. Took it to the dealer and they had me do an "upper engine clean-out" and that solved it for a little while but it has come back. My question is, what is an "upper engine clean-out" and can i do it my self or is their someting else I can do myself to reduce the noise?
Thanks for the help
Your engine sounds like it's carboned up.
I am a non believer in oil additives but I have seen Rislone work many times.
And I'm not sure this is his problem anyway....you never get pinging when backing OFF the gas pedal.
I think folks are on a wild goose chase here, if the symptoms are being correctly stated.
I think he might have an exhaust leak.
This engine is build into a Lamborghini kitcar, and the wiring harness has been butchered. Many wires are completely missing, AC, Speedodomer wire, temperature wire, MAF sensor wiring, I can go on and on with this.
Thanks
Thanks.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
bgooder
Could any of you please help me? I would appreciate It if anyone could post (pdf.) or post a file on detailed info. with illustrations on installing the rear disk pads on my 96 deville, or direct me to a possible webb page that may show that in detail. I would like to do it myself, but it dose not seem as easy as the front disk pads. I know this seems like a simple question, but I want to make sure I don't mess up all the cables. Thank you.
If I were you I'd think of it as if it were a human being with a certain life span. Most modern cars, if given good maintenance, have a likelihood of lasting up to around 175,000 to 225,000 before they become really serious money sponges.
So you might conclude that at the very best, one half your car's life (at least) is over, perhaps as much as 65% of it is "spent". So you should purchase the vehicle accordingly.
Or to put it another way, if I told you my "engine blew up" at 75,000 miles, you'd find that unusual and say "what a shame". But if I started complaining to you that my engine blew up at 150,000 miles, you might say "well what can you expect?"
See my point? After 100K, just about anything can happen to any car.
If you have a luxury car out of warranty, you are, by definition, in high risk territory. So the question of whether it is "worth the risk" depends on what amount of money you are gambling.
You should use edmunds.com True Market Value pricing (punch the "used cars" button up top of this page) to help you come to some ballpark figure of the car's worth. I'd even bid lower than what Edmunds says.
Tony Boss
MrShiftright