2001 Dodge Ram

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Comments

  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    Thanks for the info. I called Transgo and their tech said that would not help the problem Richinks and I seem to be sharing. He suggested I take it to the dealer and have the computer coding checked. There May be a service bulletin on this but the tech wasn't sure. I'm taking it to the dealer next Wednesday but I won't be taking a trip with the camper until mid July to know for sure if it's fixed.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Yes, I have an appointment Monday. But this weekend I will be taking it on the road solo. Be interesting if it down shifts in the Kansas Flinthills solo. My other trucks and cars didn't. ... Also I am toget it back late this afternoon from the alignment shop. (The dealer did not have the equipment to set caster and sent me to this alignment shop). I took it in yesterday morning and about 2:30 they called and said they did not have specs for the 2001 and had asked the dealer. The dealer did not get back to them until 2pm. They said it should be done by noon today. At noon they said after 4pm. I hope its not worse. ... Back to shifting. Shifts seem ok but on easy acceleration there is a slight shutter when the TC locks up. With the fifth wheel it really shakes the truck. If I accelerate a little faster it doesn't do it. I guess I'll just have to put my foot in it(G). ... Rich
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Picked up the truck from the alignment shop. Seems fine, no pull. They told me it didn't require the axle to be bent as the dealers service guy thought. I don't fully understand it, but the wheel was too far forward by several degrees. Anyhow it seems fine.
  • firemandavefiremandave Member Posts: 58
    I had the service manager drive my truck today. He agreed that it is all over the road at highway speeds. It's going back in for more work - this time on the steering box. They're going to work on it when they replace the seat storage console lid. The plastic pieces that hold the lid open are snapping off. There's only one left on it. This steering problem isn't unusual, I'm finding out, so don't hesitate to talk to your dealer if yours is giving you trouble.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Took my truck in yesterday morning and 27 hours later the service dept called to say they are finished with the truck and there was no trouble found. She suggested if it won't stay in OD to turn OD off as the manual suggest. I told her that is not what I brought in for. I know what hunting is. It won't shift back into OD even on a downhill. So Now I am to go pickup my truck, install the fifth wheel hitch in the bed, hook up my fifth wheel and take one of them for a test drive. What a pain but now I wish I had done that in the first place. I don't think the order writer understood the problem. And if there is no error code in the computer they won't touch it. I can see this turning into a night mare. Rich
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Got all hitched up and drove west out of town (dealer is on west side so convienient). Truck did not fail every time but most. But a couple of times it did shift into OD on the flat. ... The sevice manager himself hooked up a computer to see what was going on. Then he checked the throttle cable at the rear top of the engine compartment. He moved it to be slightly freer I believe. We then took a test and the truck shifted fine. Only shifted down to third a couple of times but then upshifted to OD at the top of the hill as it should. Even worked with cruise control on. I pushed down the throttle on flat ground to get it to down shift and it would upshift to OD when I left off (using cruise control). So now I'm not sure what to think. Guess I will just try it again in a few weeks on our next outing and see what it does. ... Rich
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    Sounds encouraging. I take mine in to the dealer tomorrow for a very similar condition. Mines a diesel but the symptoms sound almost identical. Lets keep in touch. Ken
  • nascar6nascar6 Member Posts: 113
    I've noticed that only sometimes that when I apply the brakes moderately hard, they grab well then seem to fade forcing me to push a lot harder on the pedal. It's almost like the rear brakes release. I've done the self-adjuster trick. Backing up then applying brakes, but I don't know if that's doing anything. Anyway, how much wear should be on rear brakes at 1300 miles? Not enough to need adjustment I bet. I also know about manually adjusting the rears too. I just don't think they're worn enough.

    Any guesses??

    2001 2500 QC Diesel 6 Speed 4X4

    nascar6
  • firemandavefiremandave Member Posts: 58
    Mike:
    I haven't noticed any problems with my brakes, but I agree with you - you shouldn't need any adjustment this soon. Could it have something to do with the rear ABS? Do you have front ABS? I only have the rear, and I must admit I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to ABS.
  • nascar6nascar6 Member Posts: 113
    Dave,

    ABS on all 4 corners. It's done this only a handful of times. I just know that something isn't quite right. I can't really describe it only that when you put on the brakes, you should feel a constant stopping force. Well when it happens, it feels like someone is pushing the truck from the back while it tries to stop. I hope it either goes away or it gets extremely worse. If it got worse, then I could show the dealer what it does. As it is now, they would never find out what's wrong, because it would never do it for them.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    I've heard of a number of problems with Dodge brakes in the past. And they do seem behind the times with drums on the rear. I have 4 wheel ABS (part of the SLT+ package). I had an experience in Jeff City with my fifth wheel. It was raining on 4 lane US 50 when an accident up ahead. Traffic stopped quickly. I put on the brakes and the whole rig stopped much quicker than with my previous truck and in a strait line. Of course the trailer was helping too. I was pleased. ... Rich
  • cdeancdean Member Posts: 1,110
    Rich
    Sounded like your Throttle valve was out of adjustment in the tranny. The tranny needs to know how much you're pushing down the pedal before it decides when to shift...so sounds like that was out of spec.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I had my truck at the dealer today and got just what I suspected, a song and dance act. I was told in no uncertain terms that I must not try to tow in OD. When I showed them page 160 in the owners manual what it says under "Towing with an automatic transmission", they stuck to their story, even though it does not say that. The way I read it you should expect it to shift out of OD when driving in hilly areas, when heavily loaded, or into heavy headwinds. I can buy all that but it doesn't say don't do it and it doesn't say it should hunt on level ground trying to maintain 60 mph. I told them if they can show me anywhere it says in print not to tow in OD I'd believe them, but no such thing exists. I don't know where to go from here but it looks like they sold me a truck that is not capable of living up to it's advertised abilities. Ken
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I was advised by more than one Dodge dealer that I should not opt for the 4.10 gears, that 3.54 would give me optimum performance from the Cummins and 4.10 would cause it to over rev. The 4.10 gears are meant for V8 and V10 engines, I was told, because they need the Rs to get the torque.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    Backing up is basically useless to adjust the brakes. You have to have them manually adjusted regularly; in fact, the 98 owners manual actually said to have them done at each oil change (I haven't seen a newer manual to see if that is still there). Newer (99-00-01) Rams have improved proportioning valves to force the rear to do more work, but they're still not as good as they could be. I have 60K miles on my 96 - I'm on the 5th set of front pads, and the original rear shoes - they're not glazed, and the drums aren't scored.

    Look for improvement this fall, when the 2500s and 3500s gain 4 wheel discs as standard equipment. The 1500 gets redesigned in the beginning if calendar 2001, so they will probably get their new braking system then - the 2500s and 3500s carry on until the early part of 2002 before their new chassis/body.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    As you may have seen in my post, the dealer wanted at first to do nothing because no error code was set. Then the service writer took me to the service manager. He said not to tow in OD. When I said that was wrong, the service writer said she read the owners manual and they did not feel it was clear on the subject. So then the Service manager volunteered to call the Dodge tech line (or something like that). They told him that if its not going into OD the computer they hook up to the truck (right above the brake petal) would show the reason not. It could be a problem with temperature or a whole bunch of reasons. After I came back to the shop with my fifth wheel in tow, the Service manager himself hooked up the computer. Unfortuanatly he decided to adjust the throttle linkage (in the back top of the engine compartment). When we went for the test ride the truck performed perfectly. cdean may have hit on the problem or at least in the area. ... My truck is the V10 with 4.10 and auto. I also have the LT265 tires. So at 65 mph in 3rd I am near 2900 rpm and in OD around 2000. ... My question to you is with the 3.54 auto and your size tires, what is your rpm in 3rd and OD at the speed you wish to tow? Where does those rpm values fall in your diesels torque/ horse power curves? I have been under the impression with the 3.54 3rd would be the gear of choice and with 4.10 OD (for ideal conditions). Of course with headwinds or hill both would downshift a gear. If you must tow in 3rd you still have the advantage over the 4.l0 of better solo mileage. ... I have talked with several Diesel owners with 4.10 who tow in OD as well as V10. But I didn't ask any of them what speed they tow at. My best guess is with 3.54 and LT245 tires you are towing at 2500 in 3rd or 1750 in OD. My charts show both gears in the 420 foot pounds of torque range but OD would be down in horse power, about 150 hp vs 210 for 3rd. It may not tow a heavy load with that little HP. Any comments? I'm not pretending I know I'm just theorizing.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I have 265 tires also and at just under 65 I'm turning about 1650 in OD and 2300 in 3rd. If I'm to believe what I read in the brochure that puts me almost at the peak of torque and at 125 hp in OD, but Dodge tells us the '01 Cummins is the same whether you have a stick or an auto, so that would put the hp up a little more. If the truck isn't up to the task then why do they sell it as such a great towing vehicle? One problem I'm having is with the credibility of the DC sales division. I'd really like to get this truck working like their ads promise but it may not be possible.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Every salesman I talked to tried to sell me the 3.54. One went so far as to say the 3.54 will pull more than the 4.10. Guess what he had on his lot? You cann't trust them at all as we know. ... I know little about the diesel. I know little about torque vs horsepower. I know torque is a twisting force and torque is more important with towing and horsepower with drag racing. But I suspect both are needed for both towing and drag racing only in different proportions. ... I guess what i'd do is ask them to call the Dodge Tech line my service manager called. Or hook up the computer and see why your running in the gear you are. If they refuse I'd then call the 800 number we called to find out our ship date and complain to them. There is probably a better place but thats what little I know.
  • cdeancdean Member Posts: 1,110
    Rich, what the hell, i'll give it a try.

    basically you want Horsepower. Torque is the ability to move a load-but horsepower is load at a speed. Horsepower is what gets you up the hill at 50 mph rather than 30. Thats why a 4.10 pulls better---it allows your engine to operate at a higher horsepower level.

    Engines with the flat torque curves like your V10 and the Cummins, will pull better at higher rpms, because they have basically the same torque at 1800 rpms as they do at 2400 rpms.

    If you have 400 ft lbs of torque at 1800 rpms, you are getting about 137 hp. if torque stays the same at 2400 rpms, you are getting 182 hp. So you will be able to hold speed or accelerate MUCH better at 2400 rpms.

    I've heard the 'if you talk to truckers' a hundred times. Truckers have 800 ft lbs of torque, which gives them enormous horsepowers at low rpms.

    Horsepower gets you up the hill. the lower gear, operates at a higher RPM, which is more HP.

    Horsepower is a product of Torque and RPM. To get HP, you either need a lot of torque, or a lot of RPM, or a little of both.
  • cromcrom Member Posts: 7
    It looks like I was posting in the wrong area. Who can tell me the biggest tires to get on a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 SWB quad cab. Original wheels and no lift kit. I was told all the Ram wheels were 8 inchers. I know BFGoodrich makes a 315/75R16 that fits on 8-10" wheels but I want as many options as possible. I know the 315s are a tight fit but I had a dealer show me a pair about a year ago that his mechanic had on his 2500 ram. The mechanic says there was a little rubbing with the steering turned all the way one way or the other but that it didn't give him any problems. I don't remember if they were the same tires I'm looking at now or not, but I think they are. who can give some expert advice?
  • dodgeramdodgeram Member Posts: 202
    Is it common for the 2000 or 2001 rams brakes too squeak before you stop. My 2000 diesel qc 4x4 does almost every time and it getting annoying, dealer says it is normal. He says they squeak because there metalic pads.
  • firemandavefiremandave Member Posts: 58
    I have a 2001 2500 QC, LB, 4X4, Cummins. No squeaky brakes yet (2800 miles). Everything is "normal" that the dealer doesn't want to hassle with.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    My '01 2500 Quad has only 1400 miles and still no squeals from the brakes. They work very well but I have noticed red brake dust on the right front wheel after a trip with the trailer, and none on the left wheel. The dealer says that's normal because of the turbine effect from the rotor and the Chrome wheel. My '98 1500 did the same thing, and yes, the trailer brakes are working, in fact I have them set a little on the agressive side.
    I wish the rest of the truck was as good as the brakes.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Warfish, I have wondered what the red dust was on both my front wheels. My brakes do work fine an no squeals or anything. About 3000 miles now. But I've never had a vehicle with the red dust before. ... Rich
  • ginsu1ginsu1 Member Posts: 5
    Hi guys!

    I'm buying a Ram 1500 sport, quad-cab, 4x4, 5.2v8.

    Do you think I better change for the 5.9?
    Is there a good difference in performance?
    I'll use the truck to carry my motorcycle.

    Thanx. My deadline is tomorrow, wednesday.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    If you're pulling the motorcycle on a small trailer, the 5.2 is fine - if the bike will be in the bed, you may want to consider the 5.9. You do want to check the payloads though - the larger engine does reduce available payload by a few pounds. Also keep in mind your fuel costs, with today's prices - the 5.9 with a full bed will definitely be thirsty.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • cromcrom Member Posts: 7
    What can you tell me on my 458 post?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    Most of the folks I know who have upsized tires on their 2500s run 295s with no adverse affects. The drawback is having to correct the electronic speedometer/odometer sensor. Prior to 1998, Rams used the old mechanical removable-tooth wheels for the speedo/odo, and you could correct a tire change in a few minutes, using the maintenance manual. Now the comnputer has to be flashed, or you just have to fake it.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • ginsu1ginsu1 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you, I'm going to the 5.9 !!!
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I have the opposite problem of most of the posts regarding tires. My 2500 came with LT265-16R tires and I'd like to go to a smaller size to get a few more RPMs for towing. It seems Dodge puts the bigger tires on 2500s and a smaller size on the 3500. This makes no sense to me, especially when you order a truck set up for heavy towing.
    Right now I'm turning about 1750 at 65mph. Can anyone tell me what to expect from RT235 or RT225 tires? Would they fit on the same rims?
    I'd also like to get rid of those darn Michelins,
    I know they get great mileage but I'd prefer a tire that sticks to the wet roads and preserve my valuable neck. These Michelins are as slick as snot on a doornob when it rains. Ken
  • geno7geno7 Member Posts: 10
    I am interested in a Dodge 2500 Quad 4x4 Cummins diesel with a short box. I would prefer the 235/85R16 tires on the truck instead of the 265's - less road surface, less friction, better mileage, and the 235's are just slightly taller than the 265's. Why can't you chose them as an option for the 2500 when they are stock on the 3500? kcram can you give me some ideas on this. Thanks
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    for you being so dissatisfied with your very expensive truck. I wish there was a solutition the you felt good about. I have the 4.10 rear end and hope I will be able to tow in OD on my second trip in a couple of weeks. And I know quite a few who do tow in OD with the 4.10 with both diesel and V10. Is DC telling you none of their trucks will tow in OD or just the ones with the 3.54 rearend and LT265 tires? Another question, how does 3rd with the 3.54 compare to OD with the 4.10 in RPM? I'm running 2000 in OD at 65 with 4.10 and LT265. I figure your running about 2400 in 3rd. Of course that would be about 1700 in OD I think. One is too high RPM and the other to low. Perhaps towing at 60 mph in 3rd whould be best for your setup. Switching to LT245 ties and rims also (more expense) I don't think is a solution cause you would still be about 1775 in OD, still to low an RPM. My figures maybe to low. Swapping to a 4.10 rearend would cost about $1000 per axle and althoug others do it and I hope to, I don't know for sure yet I can tow in OD. But that would let your diesel run about 2000 rpm in OD. I don't know, but with the Diesel option, I think you might be better off running 3rd at about 2300 rpm because of the diesel narrow operating range. You'll still get pretty good fuel milage compared to a gas engine like mine. I hope some testing will find away for you to make do with what you have for a few years as all your options cost a bunch.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    You might check the load rating of the LT265/75 vs LT235/85. My Michelin LT265/75 R16's are rated as "E" 7 ply (10 ply rated) 3415 lbs at 80psi. I agree the LT235's might give better mileage, but will it be enough to even notice?
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    Thanks for the thoughts.
    Yeah, DC says it doesn't matter what gears you have, if you have the auto you can't tow in OD and if you do and wreck the tranny they will know you abused it and will not honor the warrenty.
    According to my figures, which I think are at least in the ball park, going to TR225/75R16 tires would put me almost exactly in the same range as your 4.10 rear end. the diameter of the smaller tire is 29.2 compared to 31.6. That would put me at just under 2000 RPM at 70, and that's what my friends with 3500 trucks are running at with LT215/85R16s.
    I guess I may have to take your advise and just be happy to plod along at under 60 but I don't like it.
    Can't wait to find out how the new Chevy diesel does. I can't afford it now but in a few years maybe I can.
    I'd like to know what would happen if I put the smaller tires on my rims. The specs call for 7 inch max and mine are 8. Ken
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    because when the service manager at my dealership thought I could not tow in OD he called the tech support line. They did not tell him I could/couldn't tow in OD but suggested how he could determine why I was not able to tow in OD. The manual (and you can read it better than I'll sumerize it here) says it will down shift if the load is to great (and what is that?) or on a hill or in a headwind. Basically don't tow in OD if the transmission is hunting. But it doesn't say that very clear. So a case could be made for either view. By hooking up the computer the technition can tell why it is down shifting. And that should tell if it is normal or for the wrong reason.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    Like a dummy I didn't get the name of the person I was talking to at DC. Actually I talked to two people, the first was a man who left me on hold for 20 minutes after he said he would open a file for me and never came back. On my second call I got a female who talked to me like I didn't know how to get in my truck, let alone drive it. She was insulting and refused to even listen when I read her the paragraph you refered to about towing in overdrive. She insisted it said to never tow in OD, and we all know that's not wht it says. Ken
  • firemandavefiremandave Member Posts: 58
    Just my 2 cents here. I also have an '01 2500, Cummins, auto, 3.54, and 265 tires. My rationale behind not getting the 4.10 was that the Cummins would be revving too high on the highway. I figure the transmission is the weak link, and I want to prevent it's early demise. It seems to me that the philosophy of towing with OD off - on hills, when the tranny hunts - makes sense. If the tranny is happy in OD (on the flat), it should be ok. If the tranny is in and out of 4th a lot, then I think that's hard on it.(Plus it drives you nuts!)

    This makes the most sense to me - regardless of what the manual or DC says. I also believe this would be true with either the 4.10 or 3.54. I know the 3.54 will be noisier out of OD with the rpms up, but with the 4.10 it would be like that even in OD. Imagine how high the rpms would be in 3rd with a 4.10?

    Unfortunately, my little 2000 lb trailer doesn't give me any real data to support this. I barely know it's there when towing - the only time I take it out of OD is to pass somebody on a 2 lane highway. But when I do get a heavier trailer, I still think the 3.54/Cummins/265 combination will work well to tow with in or out of OD. When I need the power, I'll just take it out of OD.

    By the way, I get 18 mpg towing my little trailer with cargo, 2 adults, 1 child. (3000 miles on the truck so far)
    Good luck - I hope you find a satisfactory resolution.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I hope for your sake you have a tranny that works right. If you do you will probably not have any problem with a heavier trailer. My problem is with towing on very slight grades or into a little headwind. With only slight pressure on the pedal it hunts continuously, so I have to just leave it out of OD. The engine has all kinds of power, gets me almost up to highway speed quickly, then the tranny craps out and downshifts before I get to 65. DC says its supposed to do that. yeah, and pigs fly.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    geno,

    Click Dodge Ram II/Post 46 for a detailed mph/rpm table.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • doodles2doodles2 Member Posts: 1
    I'm so disgusted with my new truck!! I have only 3500 miles, but have been back to the dealer 5 times due to a miss, surging, and just flat out no power under 2000 rpm. The service department told me not to drive under 2000 rpm. I have a v-6 5-speed manual, at 2000 rpm, I'm traveling 72-74 mph. So I have to break the law to utilize overdrive! Plus, I'm only getting 15 mpg.This is the last Dodge I will ever buy. Warning to all, go get anything but a Dodge!!!
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    Nobody buys a truck and puts a 6 cyl. and still expects power or performance. A 6 in a truck is for someone content to plod along. What kind of power are you expecting in overdrive? It's intent is to be used after you have your truck brought up to speed, that it will then maintain itat a lower RPM.
  • cdeancdean Member Posts: 1,110
    Does Dodge use the same transmission behind the Cummins and the V10?

    i figured they would at least have different gearing between the diesel and gas.
  • cdeancdean Member Posts: 1,110
    jc
    not being condescending, but i think the DC 6 cylinders are little anemic. a friend of mine traded in a Chevy v6 for a Dodge v6. he only drives around, no towing. he's really disappointed in the new Dodge. compared to the Chevy, it has zero power, and the Dodge only got about 14 mpg, while the Chevy v6 was getting about 20. V6's aren't meant for heavy duty work, but GM and Ford both have v6's that are very peppy and driveable, Dodge does not.
  • jnikjnik Member Posts: 1
    Any thoughts on pros/cons of a 1500 Quad-Cab with the off-Road package vs. a 2500 Quad-Cab? Probably won't tow a lot and probably won't plow. Just looking for comments/experiences.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    The difference in towing capacity between a 1500 and a 2500 is negligible. If you plan on towing a fifth wheel, go for the 2500. If you plan on towing a boat or tag along camper of less than 6500 lbs, go for the 1500 with the 360 engine. My personal experience is that the 1500 rides a lot smoother, but people who like a real firm ride will dissagree. I traded in a 1500 for a 2500 and except for the larger carrying capacity I liked the 1500 much better.
  • jcmdiejcmdie Member Posts: 594
    I'll agree that dodge is behind in both performance and mileage comparing engines from chevy and ford. They are in the process of fixing this. I would never buy without test driving to be sure the power was adequate. A 6 in any truck is pretty marginal but dodge does scrape the bottom with thiers.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    cdean

    Currently, Dodge uses the 47RE automatic behind both the V10 and Cummins. Both engines also use the NVG4500HD 5-speed stick, but only the Cummins gets the NVG5600 6-speed.

    Supposedly, with the redesigned HD Rams, the Cummins will get the NVG5600 and the Allison 1000, while the new V10 will have the NVG4500 and a Mercedes 5-speed automatic, but rumors continue that the NVG4500HD may be out there as well.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • ihrkeihrke Member Posts: 1
    I'm interested in getting more performance from a 2001 Dodge 2500 Cummins w/ 6spd HO. There are several available; such as Banks, TST, Dr. Performance, etc. Does anyone objectively compare the actual on-the-road performance of these products. They claim increases such as 100 - 200 hp and 200 to almost double the torque. Can any of these deliver that kind of performance without severely decreasing the life of the powertrain? If so, which is the best? I'm choosing the 6 sp because it should prove more durable than the automatic. Also, I continue to read about the OD shifting problems with the automatic and don't care to fool with it. I currently have a '97 Ford w/ the PSD and automatic and have had no problem with it while pulling in OD (about 6000 lbs) except for lack of power in the mountains or passing on the two lanes. If anyone has some solid information on these upgrades please let me know. Thanks, Ihrke
  • eric16eric16 Member Posts: 38
    I have a 2001 ETC with the Auto, no problems towing in OD. I have heared that if you uprate the HO you run into EGT problems quick. You need to check out the TDR site at http://www.turbodieselregister.com/ You will find answers to all kinds of questions there. You can start with injectors for about 500.00 that will give 50 HP more at the wheels, call DD stage I's. This is where I am going to start. Mild HP upgrades should not hurt your motor as long as you monitor it,i.e. Boost and EGT.
    Just my 2 cents worth

    Eric16
  • waterlogged1waterlogged1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys. I am looking at a 2000 3/4 ton 4x4 quad cab cummins auto with the 4.10 rear end. I am in the boat business and normally tow about 3/4000 lbs but I have towed 16,000 lbs. I did that with a '97 k2500 Chevy 5.7/350ci. Don't tell the leasing company! I want to keep the next truck for a while so I want to make the right decision. This is a daily driver as well. I want some mileage too. I don't need to pull the house off the foundation either. I am thinking more toward the 3.54 rear end. I have talked to guys that tow boats back and forth to FLA and back(I'm in Ohio) and they say that the 4.10 gear kills the MPG's, puts the rpm's to high at 70mph. I have managed with this chevy w/4.11's and a 5.7 for 3 years without any problems. I also have the itch to lift the ram and run 35" tires. I have seen this and it ROCKS!!! Would that kill the performance with the 3.54's. I know that the 5 speed is the way to go with hauling but its kind of a pain in the a_ _ at the boat ramp. Talk to me Dodge boys!
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