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Does anyone know how accurate/reliable the average MPG calculation that is calculated by the onboard computer? My 2006 HH is reporting average mileage of between 25 - 26.
Terry
Any suggestions? Anyone know of an on-line source for this item--maybe from a European source?
Thanks!
2003 Prius, 1700 gallons, 42.93 MPG.
Could you describe your particular type of driving and the types of trips you make? Duration, terrain, speeds.
Mine for example is 75 mi each way to work then home at sea level on nearly flat terrain at an average of 60 mph Hwy ( 85% ) and 35-40 mph City ( 15% ).
If you are consistently running at 75 mph on the Hwy your 47 mpg is just about dead on what it should be.
For info, if you havent already done so, look at the database at GreenHybrid. The median for all drivers is just under 48 mpg. with the middle 50% being in the 45-50 mpg range. You seem to fall right there. For the 2003 Gen I Prius noted just above the middle 50% of reports ranges from 43 - 47.5 mpg so that too seems in order.
Thanks,
Greg
Ford abandoned their Hybrid effort and will switch to make E85 cars instead. I read somewhere that there are enough E85-capable cars on the road to use almost all our Ethanol production but 90% of these cars are running on gasoline. Sure hope that is wrong.
We are waiting for Toyota's 2-mode tranny Hybrid to show up in the Tundra and Tacoma next year. It will be fantastic to drive a real 4x4 working truck that gets 30-mpg!
In February, Hymotion unveiled the Plug-In Hybrid Electric Vehicle (PHEV) technology for hybrid cars: Users can charge their PHEV batteries in any normal 120V outlet, enabling a hybrid car to travel longer distances solely on battery power and resulting in fuel efficiencies reaching 100 mpg.
The kit, expected within a year, is under development for the Lexus Rx400h, Toyota Highlander hybrid, and Toyota Camry hybrid.
Anyone know if Toyota is doing upgrades to the HH computer operating system? The reason I ask is because it is software.. and like any software the manufacturer must come up with changes or improvements that could impact mileage. For example - I live in a tropical climate where the temperature almost never goes below 70 degrees and can get up into the 90's. Would this suggest a different type of programming to maximize mileage than say, an HH in Colorado or other colder climate like the Northeast? My mileage has not been what I hoped for. I practice the best mileage saving techniques of driving (trying to use less A.C. & electricity in general; keeping the speed below 60MPH; slow acceleration and gradual slowdowns, etc. and still the best I get would be around 22-23 MPG here in the coastal areas of Puerto Rico. Wondering if an algorithm tuned to this climate might make a difference. BTW - I know it's nice to have the driving lights on for safety, but they do use electricity and I'm curious A) How much power saving I would get if they were off during the day and How to shut them off??
Thx!
- Bob
The following is just what we see in our HH.
But my sense about the overall efficiency of the vehicle is that the gas motor is turning on more frequently than it has to -
Do check the ISL processor as Shilolady suggested. Or it may just be the irritating "break-in" period.
... It seems as though it turns on when you hit 30 MPH regardless of whether the charge is sufficient or not. Why not let the electric motor drive the vehicle a bit faster and only turn on the gas when the battery charge hits a certain low threshold?
Our HH would turn on the ICE (gas engine) at around 25 MPH for the first 5K miles no matter what. From 5K to 7.5K, the ICE would turn on at 30-MPH no matter what. From 7.5K to about 10K, it turned on the ICE at a hair over 35-MPH all the time. It was really irritating and puzzling, we had the same reaction you do now.
Since breaking the 10K miles mark, we can now regularly drive on full electric up to 39 MPH. This is over the same road that used to turn on the ICE. I cannot say the same will happen to your HH but it is likely.
It is also a lot easier now to start rolling on full electric from a start and work the speed up to 25 or 30 MPH on full electric. Either I am getting good at it or the gas pedal is finally loosening enough or the car is still breaking in. We have been very cautious and ginger with this car, that may have something to do with it.
The A/C compressor will only run until the high side refrigerant pressure rises to a set level or the evaporator surface temperature is low enough that the condensed moisture will begin to freeze.
In a Prius normally getting 50 mpg it might be 40 mpg. In a HH getting 27 mpg it might be 22 mpg. Are your normal trips 10-15 min?
In comparison to comparable non-hybrids our Prius gets absolutely STELLAR FE in stop and go driving and basically "middle of the road", even poor, FE in the highway. In city stop and go driving there is lots of opportunity to recharge the hybrid battery via regenerative braking whereas on the highway the ICE must be used to restore the battery charge.
But I guess that's the difference between the Prius, designed for FE, versus the HH and RXh, designed more for "boy-racer" mentality.
I wonder if the new Camry hybrid system can be transplanted to my 2001 RX300..??
Is there a technical limitation in using the PSD from the Prius, HH, TCH in a non-hybrid vehicle. Obviously there is no reason to 'split' the output of the ICE to drive the wheels and charge the battery but couldn't all of the output the ICE be directed through the PSD to the wheels.
This would give the Corolla's, Camry's and Avalons a true CVT but I don't know if there are any limitations.
Your comments?
I too get great FE in stop and go traffic as opposed to my previous Camry's and other ICE vehicles but short 10 min trips hurts the Prius FE by a huge margin no matter the type of driving. I can lose 15-20% of my 'normal' fuel economy as opposed to a 30 min trip where I'm currently at 51 mpg, whether highway or city.
For those who need AWD for various reasons, the FE is still impressvie when we compare it against vehicles like Tahoe, Explorer and other mid-size from Mercedes, Honda, BMW, Acura, Hyundai, etc. They are getting anywhere from 9- to 20-MPG while HH is ranging anywhere from 22- to 30-MPG. For those who do not need true 4x4, the HH is perfect because of its wide performance range.
The new generation HH should offer plug-in, new Lithium-Ion batteries and at least 2 flavors of engines. One with I4 for people who do not intend to tow anything over 1500-lbs and do not mind getting the 2-ton car up to 65-MPH in 10-11 seconds. This flavor should return close to 30-MPG real life.
Another flavor should be the current V6 for those who tow up to 3500-lbs and want a faster moving 2-ton car. This flavor should get anywhere from 27 to 29 MPG in real life depending on terrain and usage and plug-in frequencies.
It will be a bad mistake for Toyota to offer only an I4 version of the HH in the future.
The PSD is nothing more than an open differential with the ICE driving one input shaft and an electric motor driving the other. With both turning the "same" direction the result is additive at the output shaft. "Opposite" directions and they are "subtractive". With equal RPM and opposite direction and there is no "output".
So the PSD would be inoperative absent a serious level of variable frequency AC power to drive the electric motor.
When I first put it on, my wife asked me a week later "when" I was going to get that clear bra I was talking about. She was surprised when I told her it was already on. No one notices it until I tell them about it. Don't get me wrong though, it is visible. However, you can't see it past 5 feet or if the car is moving. Nobody would notice it on racing cars except for the fact that they print their sponsors logos on the stuff. The stuff is sold by many companies under different names.
Thanks.
Here is a site with some good pic's of an install.
http://www.swedespeed.com/news/publish/Features/article_161.html
You can also check the ventureshield and 3M websites for more info on the products.
Driver related, driving style/type, "learned" memories are erased each time you turn off the ignition. Once you start the vehicle in motion within a very short period the computer has "binned" your driving style in one of four "rough" categories. Shortly thereafter it will farther refine your driving style into one of sixteen categories.
After that it will keep ~3 minutes of running memory and will revise your categorization if the need arises.
Until designers find a way to figure "who" is currently driving the vehicle is will always be so.
I am shocked by the fact that a good third of the manual is now about safety systems, warnings, disclaimers, and other legal verbage that is designed only to deflect possible litigation as a result of an accident or incompetence on the part of the driver.
Most Toyotas even have "black boxes" that are admissable as evidence in event that they are taken to court... the black box saves the state of the engine management and telemetry sensors (RPM, speed, brake status, safety systems (airbags, stability controls) steering wheel angle, etc.) prior to impact. This allows Toyota to defend themselves if you were driving too fast, if you didn't have control of the vehicle, or of any of the safety systems had been comprimised at the time of the impact!
Sadly, in this litigious society, companies are obsessed with CYA, and as long as customer continue to blame the companies for their irresponsibility, this kind of thing will get even more pronounced. Certainly some companies do create products that are defective or seriously flawed as a result of bad design and they need to be held accountable, but some of the cases are quite ridiculous, like suing ski gear manufacturers because you are injured when you ski into a tree.
I personally think it is a bit sad that anyone would ever drive a vehicle without their seatbelts, and I have also been annoyed by putting my laptop or a bag of groceries and having the passenger seatbelt warning beeper and light pester me ad infinatum. However, if it saves even one life, it is probably worth it.
Bottom line: leave the safety systems in your Highlander alone.
Hmmm...In the owners manual for my brand new 07 Camry Hybrid, it speaks about being able to do what I believe is just what the poster asked for ....disabling the warning reminder chimes/buzzer for the seat belts.
dnich35 ...I don't know if this option is available on your HH, but you could try http://www.toyotaiguide.com/
pulling-out my wallet (typically thru drive-ins)
the drive between where I pick-up my mail and home
backing-up my boat
While the chime is active for under a couple of minutes, it is more that I will put up with.
from the factory service manual:
Steps (you must be sitting in the corresponding seat)
1 Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
2 Press the ODO/TRIP switch until the odometer displays "ODO".
3 Turn the ignition switch off. Turn the ignition switch off.
4 Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5 Press the ODO/TRIP switch immedeately (within 6 seconds) and hold it down for 10 seconds or more.
6 Continue holding down the ODO/TRIP switch and fasten the driver side seat belt.
7 Check that the odometer displays either "SEAT BELT BUZZER ON" or "SEAT BELT BUZZER OFF"
8 Press the ODO/TRIP switch to change the display to "SEAT BELT BUZZER OFF".
9 Turn the ignition switch off.
10 Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11 Check that no buzzer sounds.
Pulling battery power will reset to factory default. The seatbelt warning lamp is not affected.