Got a Quick, Technical Question?

edmond87

How do I remove the anti-rattle clip? Thanks

!997 GMC Jimmy
6 cylinder
auto
250,000miles
trying to change front brake pads first time by myself

user777

if you hear it going "brrt brrt brrt" specially when turning (maybe louder turning left or turning right), then likely it is a CV (Constant Velocity) joint. If the rubber boot surrounding the CV joint dry-rots or is damaged by road debris, or something else causes the packing to be lost, the CV joint is a gonner quick.

if it is a squealing type sound instead, maybe you have a caliper or brake pad frozen / scraping, or something similar...

kiawah

I never read or seen what the 'proper' way to grease is, but for 50 years I've been pumping it in, till the grease that comes out is clean and new. When you first pump the new grease in, the old grease will start to come out. I keep pumping until I see new grease coming out. Then clean up and wipe up all the old grease with paper towels.

Don't know if it's 'right', but what I've been doing.

bolivar

Well, on my 1968 Ford, you would have blown out every zerk seal on the car. It had closed rubber seals, and you only did one or two pumps, until the seal was full. Overfilled, they would burst/split.

But, I've not seen a closed rubber zerk boot in a lot of years.

As a matter of fact, on my last 3 cars, there isn't a zerk to be found.

kiawah

I had thought that originally as well, but upon close inspection of a number of boots, they all seem to have enough clearance around the metal shaft where the old grease is able to ooze out. I've never had a rubber boot break. As I mentioned, I don't know if it is 'right', but it's what I do.

Agree we are seeing many less zerk fittings, many ball joints on cars these days are sealed and when they go you just replace the whole ball joint.

Mr_Shiftright

Don't let the grease push out. If grease can get out, debris can get in.

doberkidsmom

I have a warning light that came on, and not having an owner's manual, can't figure out what it is and means........it's the 3rd light on the left, brake, oil, then this light. altenator six months old, battery 3 months at most, just replaced a timing belt because something broke and fell on it

[Deleted User]

Thanks for the feedback here...I appreciate it!

I got the following response from a well-respected member in one of the Wrangler forums and I thought I'd share his comments here to add more information about lubrication basics in case anyone else is interested...

1 - I usually pump until it expands, then give it two or three more depending on how swollen the boot is.

2 - No, but don't worry if grease does come out. Just stop pumping at that point.

3 - No, because it's not flushing all the old grease out, just lifting the boot at its weakest point.

4 - Seven (from memory).

5 - No.

6 - Not really. You can grease handbrake and t/case linkages if you want, but it will retain dirt/grit and may do more harm than good.

7 - Those zerks are for the joints and not the wheel bearings (which are sealed). You were correct to lube them.

Occasionally you'll find 'u' joints that have been replaced with one that have a zerk. If so, then grease them until it starts to come past the seals. Same applies if you find zerks in the slip joints on the propshafts.

Don't worry about a boot splitting when you're pumping. It just means the boot was at the end of its life anyway, and better it splits when you can see it rather than on the road when you can't.

bolivar

I don't agree with this guy's advice at all!

He is going to blow up a lot of sealed boots.

And, you NEVER pump grease into a U-joint until it comes out. One pump is the most ever needed for one.

Mr_Shiftright

I would also respectfully disagree...you never pop the seals during lubrication as this breaks the seal barrier and allows water and dirt to come in and grease to drip out when hot.

As for greasing cables...first you clean them, then grease them (like a bicycle chain).

toomanyfumes

At one time I went to school for auto technician. The instructor who is still about the best wrench I've met said to grease it until the boot bulges then stop.

0patience

I agree with bolivar and Mr Shiftright.

The old mind set used to be to pump the grease in until the old grease came out.
Putting grease into CV boots until the expand is only looking for problems later on. I have seen many boots torn apart, because of over greasing.
You should only put enough grease into the boots until they have filled the cavity. If the boot starts to move because of the grease, you have enough.

What happens when you swell the boot is that when you make a turn, the boot has no where to allow the extra grease to go, so you have either a blow out of the boot or grease. Neither is beneficial and if the grease blows out, more than likely the clamp or boot will fail.
Just my opinion.

debra4

My 1995 Intrepid is cutting out from the time I accelerate until around 35 mph.After that it runs smoothly.
Any idea as what it might be,before I pay $65 to have it diagnosed.

0patience

First thing, when was the fuel filter last replaced?
If it has been a long time or you don't know, then I would start there. If it isn't the problem, then it needed it anyway.

Next, is the check engine light on when you are driving?
If it is on, is it on steady or flashing?

From there, if the light is on, then you need to have the vehicle scanned for trouble codes. A lot of auto parts stores will scan for free, some don't. Bottom line, don't buy parts you don't need.

Let us know.

debra4

Thanks, I dont know the last time the fuel filter was replaced,and no,the check engine light doesnt come on.
I will have my son replace it and let you know if it helps.

johnny_rotten

What exactly does the light look like?

do3572

1. 5.7 ltr 78 olds diesel,custom cruiser
2. in the vehical i have all positive batt conn. are at starter. i assume the charging system also works via starter conns. if i remove all starter positve conns from the starter, route a new conn wire for all power except positive to solenoid from drivers side batt, run all remaining wires to pass. side batt, will car still charge batts from pass batt??? tnx
3. can be reached at do3572@comcast.net (need other info for this engine also)

alkijim

95 Dodge Neon
4 cyl
Auto
100K+
I am changing the water pump but can't get the timing belt cover off. 3 bolts from the upper right motor mount go through the cover but I cant get them out. not enough room between the cover and the fender. HHHelp!!! :confuse: :sick:

0patience

There were two 4 cylinders that vehicle came with. One was a Single overhead cam (SOHC), the other is a Duel Overhead Cam (DOHC). So it would be helpful to know which one, but both are similar procedures.

Water pump Removal
Raise vehicle on a hoist. Remove right inner splash shield.
Remove accessory drive belts and power steering pump.
Drain cooling system.
Support engine from the bottom and remove right engine mount.
Remove power steering pump bracket bolts and set pump and bracket assembly aside. Power steering lines do not need to be disconnected.
Remove right engine mount bracket.
Remove timing belt.
Remove inner timing belt cover.
Remove water pump attaching screws to engine.

Installation
Install O-ring in water pump body O-ring groove. Use small dabs of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent around the water pump body to secure O-ring in place during installation. CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in water pump groove before tightening screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause damage to the O-ring and cause a coolant leak.
Assemble pump body to block and tighten screws to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs) . Pressurize cooling system to 15 psi with pressure tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
Install inner timing belt cover.
Install timing belt.
Install right engine mount bracket and engine mount.
Fill cooling system and bleed air from cooling system.
Install power steering pump and accessory drive belts.

cudabob

The leak appears to be coming from the top of the gear, where the steering column shaft enters the gear.

Can this seal be repaired or just replace the whole thing?

Is it possible that it is also leakig thru the seal on the bottom where th pitman arm attaches?

alkijim

Problem is with bolts that secure the motor mount. They pass through the timing belt cover. When I turn them out I can not get them clear. They hit the frame rail. They are loose but cannot be pulled out far enough to remove them.

msena1

I have a 1985 gmc suburban with a 305 cdi and I had 2 plug wires blow a in the side of the wire and arc out on the exhaust.
After that it has been surging and very lopy.
I have changed spark plug wires & cap and rotor, I was wondering if it could be the pickup coil or something else, and how do I test for it, I just don’t want to spend money on parts that don’t need to be replaced.
If I have posted this in the wrong place I apologize, I didn’t know where else to post this.
Thank you for your help.

0patience

Did you replace the plugs or pull them and look at them?
They are probably fouled.

Are you certain you got the wires in the correct place?

Did you replace all the wires as a set or just the 2?

msena1

I replaced all the wires, they are in the correct firing order, plugs are not fouled, fuel pump is good, carb is properly tuned and timing is set correctly.

0patience

You can pull the module and take it to most parts stores and they can test it.
It is possible that it is a problem.
Did you replace the dist cap and rotor when you replaced the wires?

It is possible that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Maybe a hose got knocked loose or was cracked and working on the engine started the leak to become pronounced.

alkijim

95 Dodge Neon
4cyl sohc
Auto100 k+
Replacing water pump

I can't get the timing belt cover off.
Bolts holding the motor mount on will not back out far enough to remove them from the timing belt cover. They hit the frame rail. What's the trick? :confuse:

96850glt

I have a '96 Volvo 850GLT, 126K, 5 cyl/2.4L/normally aspirated, automatic transmission, new plugs/wires/rotor/dist cap/and ignition module/coil. I occasionally get a shudder, rpm drops, black smoke comes out of the exhaust, and at it's worst the engine dies. Sometimes, the car will not start/re-start right away, but it will eventually start. Again, lots of black smoke, and the smell of an over-rich engine. The check engine light will illuminate, and I get an OBD II code of P0103-MAF/VAF high input. I tested the MAF sensor and got a signal ground circuit:ground resistance of .008 ohms (should be 0 ohms), a battery voltage of 11.89V (.02V below actual batt voltage), and a backprobe of the signal ground:signal return wires of .15V (should be 0.1-0.2V). Any ideas before I bite the bullet for a 3-figures MAF sensor?

Mayday, mayday, mayday!

qbrozen

Hmmmm.... how does the oil look on the dipstick? When is the last time you serviced the PCV system? I don't think this should cause stalling, but this is just ringing a bell with me for some reason.

Have you tried just cleaning the MAF?

msena1

I am going to be swapping out my auto hubs for standard manual warn hubs.
The hubs I am using are used out of a newer gmc truck with same size axels.
Where can I find instructions on how to go about the install?

donander

I currently have a 99 Camry which I like but will be replacing it sometime around 2008 or 2009 and buying another used vehicle, about 2 years old so I'd be looking for a 2006-2007 vintage vehicle. Does anyone know if any manufacturers make a reasonably priced 4 door passenger sedan (say $15,000 or so when 2 or 3 years old) that has an instant-on heater? It seems like a simple thing to just put an electric element in the heater system that would come on when you turn the heat on just after you start the car in cold weather. As the engine temperature rises the heating system could transition from the electric element to the engine heat. I know some people are going to say that electric seats accomplish this and I suppose I'd be willing to try that out (I've never had them) but does anyone know if the instant heat thing is on any vehicles?

Mr_Shiftright

I think that would be a solution to a question nobody asked (well you did, but you know what I mean...the "market" hasn't asked for it). Between electric seats and plug-in engine heaters (and I suppose remote starters), I'd guess that everyone who wants faster heat knows how to get it for relatively little extra money.

kiawah

Electrical Instant on heat, is not really practical from a technical point of view.

When you think of heat, think of wattage which is Volts x Amperage. For comparative purposes, a typical hair dryer (which I think would be less than the minimum amount of heat that you would need to even think of heating a cold vehicle interior) is usually 1000 to 1500 watts. Because household voltage is 120 volts, that is approximately a 10 Amp draw to deliver 1200 watts.

Now in a vehicle, the voltage is 12volts (actually more like 13volts). So to deliver an equivalent 1300 watts of heat, you'd need 100 Amps of current), which would require a wiring thickness similar to the main battery cable, and similar to the massive current draws that starters require. Your typical electrical circuits in a car are 10, 15, 20 amps.

The 100 Amps is on the top end of the output of many average alternators, which are delivering that current at high RPM's. At idle or low speeds, forget it. Plus, the alternator is already sized to deliver the power to all of the other electrical devices (headlights, computers, door windows, and recharging the battery after the starter drained it down, etc). Seat heaters can work, because it is concentrated spot of energy (wattage), without 'loosing' the heat to surrounding areas of the interior.

"Could" it be done, well yes, sortof. Upgrade all of the wiring for the heater, upgrade the battery and alternator, add a couple high current relay switches, and some electrical controls to vary the heat output.

Would it be an expense most people would want to pay for the 2 or 3 minutes of time it takes for the engine to start putting out warm air.....doubt it.

meggie18

I am thinking about buying a 1996 Eagle Vision, but I have been informed that it has a blown head gasket. Do you happen to have any idea approximately how much it would cost to repair this particular problem?

kiawah

Run, don't walk, away from this.

A blown head gasket could have allowed coolant into the engine and bearings.....no telling what other problems might exist.

You could just have the head gasket replaced, and be okay. You could have the head gasket replaced, and then need a lot of other engine work.

Not worth the risk, in my opinion.

Always very suspicious when the previous owner has not fixed any of the known problems with the vehicle. If you absolutely must have that vehicle for some reason and still want to buy it, I would assume the worst estimate on repairing unknown engine problems....and if you get it at a fair price knowning the potential outlay, if you then don't have the problem you're very pleased. If you do have the problem, you've already allocated money to fix it.

Mr_Shiftright

Too risky, don't buy it, because once you open that engine up you have no idea what you might find. You could just go and buy a clean good running Eagle Vision for the price of a head gasket repair done thoroughly. (for instance, why did it overheat in the first place? You certainly would rebuild the radiator, new belts and hoses, new coolant, and if the miles are high, clean up the valves and guides.)

96850glt

The oil was changed last month, I cleaned the intake butterfly valve, the intake hose, and the air box. My K&N filter was cleaned two months ago. I'll work on the PCV system. I'll also give the MAF sensor another look. It looked pretty fragile when I had it out to test it. At this point, I've got little to lose by trying to clean it.

Thanks again. I'll let you know haow it worked.

John

0patience

The K&N filter is half the problem.
The oils from it collect on the MAF sensor.
Be very careful when cleaning the MAF sensor.
Carb cleaner seems to work fairly well.

ladydelight200

windows are all atuck in up position except for rear driver side

96850glt

Thanks for the reply. I should have said that the K&N was in a V70 for two months BEFORE I put it in this 850. So, I would think that any excess oil would have fouled the V70's MAF. I do have carb cleaner, and I will be careful. I'll also keep a closer eye on the re-oil process for the K&N. That's something that never crossed my mind.

Thanks again,
John

gustavo1906

Hi....
I own a 1995 mercury cougar, V8 4.6l, auto.
i bought it a month ago and i d like to use the keyless door pad....but i can´t find the code nowhere....I've been looking but don´t know where is the keyless entry module........
Could u give me an answer????? Thanks....

qbrozen

i ask about the oil, not because it might be dirty, but because foam forming on the dipstick is a clear indication of a clogged PCV system on these cars. Another indication is smoke puffing out of the valve cover with the oil cap removed and the car hot and running.

qbrozen

i believe if you give a dealer your VIN, they can look up the default factory code for your car.

kiawah

If my memory holds, I believe it holds 2 codes, one that is loaded by the mfg, and the other by you. I'm thinking a dealer might be able to look up your VIN number and tell you the mfg code, which would allow you to also load a new personal one.

toomanyfumes

I have a 1995 T-Bird. Basically the same car. The factory code is: taped to the underside of the trunk lid; and taped to the computer module behind the driver's side luggage compartment trim. (behind plastic relay panel)

donander

Thanks for the very clear and logical explanation. I never thought of those considerations. Now I know why you don't see this feature.

mike31z

How do you remover the door panel on a 199 buick lesabre custom? I need to change my driver outside rear view mirror.

mike in wisconsin

Mr_Shiftright

don't have a clue about your particular car but the general drill is to remove the armrest, and pop out the panel at each of the little plastic plugs that hold it in, around the perimeter of the panel. Most will then come off, sometimes with a little "lift" to clear the window area. Be sure to buy a couple of those plastic snaps, because many will break. On some panels, you also have to remove a plate that covers the handle that opens the door from the inside.

For more details, you'd have to ask at the dealer or an upholstery shop. If you are patient and keep looking and gently tugging, I think you'll get it.

codered

i have a dodge grand caravan 01 3.3 liter with 110k.....fluid is coming out of top of reservior...feels like air is in the line when heats up..i put a new ps pump on it & also paid some to put a longer hose "was told they were to short"..tell me my grand is not the only one to do this..all worf done in last four weeks.. :lemon: :sick: any help would be great thanks billy

kiawah

Your post is a little confusing, not sure what you are describing the problem is. Is your car overheating? When you say you put a new ps pump....ps normally would be a power steering pump. Did you mean you had a water pump put on, or do you really mean you got a ps pump? In which case, did you also have a power steering problem?

Assuming that you have an overheating problem, are your radiator cooling fans turning on when your engine is warm/hot?

Is the resevoir you mention, is that the radiator coolant resevoir? Is your radiator cap on correctly?

You mention a hose being replaced. Is that one of the two radiator hoses (top or bottom), or some other hose.

Assuming you are referring to an overheating problem, what should happen when you start a cold engine is it should sit there and run until it starts to warm up. The thermostat would be closed, preventing coolant flow, allowing the engine to warm up. Once the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat will begin to open and you should see in your radiator (if you have the cap off), that the fluid starts to move thru the radiator, and it will be warm. If you see the fluid moving, that means the thermostat probably opened correctly, and the waterpump is pumping.

If you allow the engine to continue heating up, it will get to the point that the electric radiator fans will turn on, to cool the coolant down.

So how is your vehicle acting?

imidazol97

What year is your LeSabre? 199? Do you mean 1999?

I have a manual I can look it up for a 98 and 93.