Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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So if it were me, I'd just schedule an appointment to buy a keyfob (or two) and have them configure them.
If it can't be done for your car they'll tell you that at no charge.
Don't waste a lot of time trying to figure it out, just assume success and schedule an appointment.
It HAS to be something else. Just HAS to be.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I mean, we aren't pros, yet all of us know, just from a little post in a forum, what to test for first.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I very much doubt that the dealer's service department has spent more than a small% of the 2 weeks actually working on the problem. C&D once ran an editorial (I think it was Pat Bedard) about "The Wall Job"
Basically, the shop parks the problem vehicle next to a wall for a week or so. Maybe the problem (or the customer) will just go away. Not that I'm saying that this is the case here, but it is a possibility.
Is there a loaner car? Perhaps there is little incentive to work on a problem warranty claim when there are other customers with easier (more profitable) business.
Cynically yours,
james
A year and engine size would tell me more, but testing for exhaust gases in the coolant may help.
A compression test, checking for signs of coolant in the cylinders. Signs of coolant in the oil.
Now that we covered coolant, something that the shop may be missing (we would need far more info to make a guess), would be a problem with fuel. Over fueling and fuel contamination come to mind.
Or another possibility (without knowing the year and engine, this is another guess) is that if it has the coolant passage in the throttle body, like most others, then it is possible that coolant is leaking from the throttle body gasket.
If it is a V-6, the intake gasket could also be leaking into the cylinders through the intake ports.
Need to know what tests were performed and what the results were.
The original poster also never made mention of using coolant, so that would have to be clarified too.
I would be extremely unhappy if I had to have the engine on my new car completely taken apart at the dealership. I would have little faith that they would get it back together as good as new (or better, in this case).
I would agitate to have them swap in a new engine, but that could be an uphill battle! Maybe a 7 year 100K ESP would do the trick..
And just one more reason to lease.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
What have they checked so far and what was the result?
Is the only symptom the white exhaust smoke or is it idling rough and driving poorly?
I have to assume that the check engine light is on (my crystal ball is fuzzy on that), if it is, what codes did they say it was giving them.
If it is coolant going through the exhaust, then it should also show on the Oxygen sensors.
Have they checked the fuel pressure and confirmed it wasn't an overfueling problem?
Have they pulled the intake tube to see if the throttle body is wet with signs of coolant?
I would be extremely unhappy if I had to have the engine on my new car completely taken apart at the dealership. I would have little faith that they would get it back together as good as new (or better, in this case).
Unfortunately, you have little say in this part. If the dealer is warranting the vehicle, then it is the manufacturer's call on how they repair it.
They can either repair, rebuild or replace the engine.
It is at their discretion. The problem is, they have to locate the cause first and it sounds like they aren't very experienced nor having much success.
We're trying to help, but need more info.
Of course, one should be able to smell the white smoke for the tell-tale scent of coolant.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
6 cyl 3.9 litre
Auto trans
70K miles
The blower for the heater and AC stopped working. All fuses are good and there doesnt seem to be any problem in the switches. I'm not sure where the blower unit is.
When at a stop sign then accelerating the truck hesitates and sputters almost killing the engine. I can hear popping sound coming from the floor board like mini backfires. Then the truck will regain power and run fine until I stop/start again. Any help app.
I'm new to this forum, have a
2001 Hyundai Elantra,4dr sedan, 4Cylinder 2.0L, Auto, 80K
how to replace the windshield-washer motor
I'll be grateful if anyone could help me with this, the windshield washer doesnt work anymore, I had a look at it, its not the water being empty, or the pipes being clogged, so I think its the windshield-washer motor, cause I dont hear the motor sound anymore, any idea where the motor is located or how do I access it? short on money so i'll have to fix it myself.
Thanx
Finding the Windshield Washer Motor
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Could be starving for air, most noticeable on acceleration.
Happened to me on an older Dodge van.
Hope this helps.
-ss4
We have a 2003 Toyota Sienna, 6 cylinder, Auto with about 120K. We have had a variety of problems this summer ranging from the gas cap needing to be replaced to valves and sensors needing to be replaced...several related to the fuel system.
ANYHOW, today while in the car with my husband and 3 kids we were overcome with the smell of fuel and our gas line had ruptured. The gas line from the tank to the engine and we apparently had gas spewing in the engine. The mechanic says it looks as though a hole was caused by vibrations of the vehicle and a nearby clip on the gas line.
Does this make any sense?
Do fuel lines rupture like this?
I'm at the mercy of my dealership, how should I approach this issue with them? It seems VERY serious to me.
Fuel lines can break. IMO, it is very rare, especially on a newer car.
The good news is, it shold be an easy fix. Just take off the lod line and put on a new one. That of course assumes it didn't catch on fire!
Funny thing is, last weekend I stopped at a convenience store, and noticed a strong gas smell (they don't have pumps either). Finally realized there was a Lexus RX300 with a puddle leaking underneath it, where the smell seemed to be coming from.
I happened to stop at the same place yesterday, and I think parked in that spot. You could still smell the reek of the gas, and see a stain.
I had a fuel line go many years ago on an old Opel I had. It was a rubber line in the engine compartment. I think that would have been a fireball if the car had been hot (I had just started it and was leaving a parking lot), which given how big a piece of crap it was, might have been a good thing. But, a quick tow and a few bucks later, it ran again.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
flame trap! ah, yes, i forgot about that. It was done away with on the S70, but I remember reading about it quite a bit.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You are probably right,though I would pay extra for a true dual exhaust system.Back in the day I had Chevy 409,427 Ram Charger,Tri-Power 60 Chevy,etc.all with true dual exhausts.These cars had no back pressure problems and performed.Thanks for your input.
Doug4321
With a lift and good shop to work out of, the job takes about 3 hours. Someone doing it in their garage should figure at least the day to do it, figuring in rusted/stuck bolts, things that may not go to well and things like that.
If you want my opinion, I don't even do those repairs anymore.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Siphon power steering fluid from reservoir.
Raise vehicle.
Left front tire.
Lower pinch bolt on intermediate shaft assembly and push shaft up towards steering column.
Remove tie rods from knuckles.
Steering gear bolts.
Transmission mount to Crossmember bolt.
Remove rear Crossmember to body bolts to provide clearance to remove power steering pipe/hoses.
Loosen front Crossmember bolts.
Power steering pipes from steering gear.
Steering gear through left wheel opening.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
Steering gear through left wheel opening.
Power steering pipes to steering gear.
Tighten front Crossmember bolts.
Install rear Crossmember to body bolts.
Transmission mount to Crossmember bolt.
Steering gear bolts.
Install tie rods to knuckles.
Lower pinch bolt on intermediate shaft assembly.
Left front tire.
Lower vehicle.
Fill reservoir with power steering fluid and bleed air from system.
Inspect for leaks.