Got a Quick, Technical Question?

0patience

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superphish

I have a 2000 Dodge Stratus with 160,000 miles. I just bought this car used and it's in good shape overall. My only issue is when this car is in neutral the engine sounds like its going to stall but never does, and when I rev the engine the tachometer climbs about 250-500 rpms higher than the point where I take my foot of the gas and then goes back to the point it was at before I revved the enging. Any idea why this happens?

0patience

Is the check engine light on?

Has it ever had a tune up?

Has the fuel filter ever been changed?

Which engine? 2.0, 2.4 or 2.5L?

But most likely, the problem is in the idle air controller (IAC). This is mounted on the side of the throttle body and looks like a little tube.

But, if the check engine light is on, then there may be another problem causing it.
Best thing is to have the vehicle scanned and let us know if there are any active codes and any history codes.

pkbaker

I OWN A 1987 MERCEDES 300E GASOLINE ENGINE. THE CAR HAD SET APPROX. 4 MONTHS WHEN IT RAN FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND THEN SHUT OFF. THE ONLY WAY IT WILL RUN NOW IS IF YOU POUR GAS DIRECTLY INTO (I GUESS YOU WOULD CALL IT THE INTATKE) THE ROUND PIECE UNDERNEATH THE AIR CLEANER. AS SOON AS YOU QUIT POURING SECONDS AFTER THE ENGINE WILL QUIT. ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA?MINE WAS POSSIBLY COULD BE THE FUEL PUMP.

qbrozen

possibly the pump. Or a clogged fuel filter or fuel line.

Mr_Shiftright

fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump relay fuse, or also--whatever device triggers the injectors.

seyerce

Year/Make/Model: 1996 Chevy Suburban (K1500)
Transmission Type: Auto
Mileage: 125k
Problem: It won't start - no fuel delivery

If I turn the ignition key to "ON" (without starting the vehicle), should the fuel pump of my 92 Suburban activate? Should I be able to hear the pump at this point?

0patience

Yes, you should hear the pump come on for a few seconds.
Check all fuses and then check fuel pressure.

jl49

Year/Make/Model: 2007 Jeep Compass
Type & Size of Engine: 4 cylinder 2.4 liter
Transmission Type: Auto CVT
Mileage: 400
Problem: I'm getting around 14 to 15 mpg's which is not the 23 to 26 mpg's advertised on the window sticker
Other Info: Dealer serviceman claims that it's common complaint with other cars as well because they're mixing more ethanol in the gas. Says there's nothing they can do.

justx

Ive owend my 82 Cadillac for 13 years,no major complaints,or speeding tickets. Anybody have suggestion what to run for new motor and transmission?

kiawah

If you are at the point to consider a new engine and transmission, you should consider upgrading to new vehicle to get the latest safety features.....or in your case, 'some' safety features.

bolivar

I actually don't understand your question.

What do you mean by 'what to run'? Are you wanting to know what motor you could place in this car which would fit and also give you more power/hp?

My opinion - for a 1982 Cadillac, which is basically worth zero, I sure would not spend the money to install a motor and transmission, even a used one from a salvage pull. If you do this, you car is still worth about zero. If you are going to get into doing this, the cost of a motor, tranny, and installation would be several thousand dollars, I would think. Especially if you change to a different motor and have to make modification to make it fit.

A few thousand dollars opens up all kinds of cars to purchase, much newer, lower milage, and would have more power than an old, heavy Cadillac.

1984sxrebuild

I have a 1984 Nissan 200sx with the 2.0 CA20e which I just rebuild. The problem is that when I cranked it oil poured out the front and rear crank seals. I mean a lot. The oil pan gasket is new and sealing and the seals seem tight when I put them in. 4cyl( oct 84) 5speed

kiawah

Only guessing, but I would think there are two ways that could happen.
- the seals were incorrect (but you say they were tight),
- the main crank is bent or have wrong bearings around it.....thereby when the crank is spinning it is wobbling too much for the seals to be able to hold the oil in.

qbrozen

well, here's another wild guess for you. somehow, someway, crankcase pressure is too high and not being released and it is finding the easiest way out. Like I said, wild guess. I mean, it would have to be so great that the dipstick tube is not enough. I guess the easy way to find this out is to hold your hand over the tube and have someone crank/start it and see what happens. Yeah, REAL wild guess.

Most likely the seals are sealed.

Mr_Shiftright

I'd also check crankshaft movement front to rear. Maybe there's a thrust bearing/washer in that engine that needs to be installed just right?

wilbur1954

i have a 1964 dyna-vision marquette8 electronic engine analyzer complete with all hardware and manual.i would like to know more info on it and approximate value.if anyone knows anything i would appreciate a reply

0patience

I think Marquette was bought out by Bear, so you might check around and see if you can find a Bear distributor and see if they can get some information.
I'm not certain of it, but I think Bear may be part of OTC now too.

walt5

My '99 LHS front passenger side window has come off track...motor works fine but have to guide window back on track as I raise it...can I correct this myself or am I asking for trouble by taking the door panel apart?

Walt5

kiawah

Depends on your technical skills, with screwdrivers, wrenchs, and sockets (and band-aids). Do you fix other things on the car?

pete957

I have a 1987 corvette coupe 350 engine auto 104000 mls.
THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN DEGREES. What is the average temperature it should be running at before it overheats???

0patience

Well, most pre-90 thermostats open around 180 degrees.
So, the average temp should be 180-190 degrees.
Some newer vehicles are running 200-210 degrees.

If it is fuel injection with electric fans, then it is possible that the thermostat is a 190 degree thermostat.

If you are running above 200 degrees, then you are pushing your luck. You would need to determine that the fans are coming on and that the thermostat is opening.

frankie10

I have a 2003 EX Honda Civic with about 45k miles. Just noticed today can not roll up front passenger window with controls on drivers door, but can roll it down. To roll it back up need to use controls on front passenger door. Does anyone know if this is something in the controls on the driver's door? or does it sound more like loose connection, etc?

Also ever since I have had it seems once in a while can't start at first try but if I turn key off and on again but only one notch and wait until the beep beep stops it usually always starts. It has always started even if it took 2- 3 times. Anyone know if there is a quick fix or maybe some sort of recall on this problem?

Thanks much!

kiawah

Sounds like the driver side window switch is bad

tennisprofl

I ran thru a HUGE puddle & made it thru it but my car won't start now. Any thoughts? Its a 2003 Mercedes C240 automatic. Should I change the battery or alternator? Any help would be great.

Mr_Shiftright

first thing you'd better check is that the engine is not seized through hyro-locking. If it is, it's new engine time. You might be able to make an insurance claim I dunno.

Hydro=locking occurs when the engine's air intake sucks up a large amount of water...this is forced into the cylinders....the piston comes up, but cannot compress water nor eliminate it through the exhaust valves fast enough.

And this bends your connecting rods in an instant.

So a compression test/engine test is in order before you try any other solutions.

kiawah

Please define "HUGE".

Was the water up higher than the bottom door sills? Did you 'splash' thru it where water would have sprayed up from the wheels........or did you drive very slowly and gently thru it?

As suggested, this could be a very serious major engine problem. Might also be a medium sized electrical problem.

tteslov1

I have a 2003 Ford Mustang, 3.8L, manual transmission, approximately 55k miles. For the last few days, I hear a grinding sound as the tach needle passes through 2000 RPM. The sound lasts for about a second. I don't hear it at lower or higher RPMs. I haven't heard the sound in neutral or in 1st gear, but I hear it in 2nd and 3rd. (I haven't tested 4th, 5th, or reverse.) I would appreciate any help!

franko50

We have a 1998 Cherokee, Underneath the A/C compressor is a fairly large aluminum bracket that holds the compressor down. In this bracket is a shaft and pressed in bearing that has a smooth pulley that runs the clutch fan. The problem I have is the bearing went out, and the number on the bearing cannot be located any where even from the bearing manufacturer SNK. Bearing #: snk-R325. If any body can help would greatly appreciate it. Franko50

kiawah

Is the pulley you mention the tensioner? Tensioner is the spring loaded pulley which takes the slack out of the accessory belt. If so, those things go all the time, and I would bet any of the autoparts stores would carry a new tensioner.

Mr_Shiftright

Just buy the whole new tensioner. Shouldn't be that expensive and sometimes pressing out old bearings is not so easy to do at home.

crankshaft

I am getting codes 171 and 174(lean) on my 97 ford ranger(3.0 liter).I replaced the fuel filter and then measured fuel pressure,32PSI at idle and it remained there for atleast ten minutes after shutdown.What is considered normal?

kiawah

Might look at www.helminc.com for online subscription to factory Ford service manuals. Not sure how far back they go, but you can get a 2-3 day subscription really cheap, and print whatever pages you need.

imidazol97

Other options are to buy the manuals for $110 from Helm or goto Ebay and buy Ford authorized Helm factory service manuals. They're worth their weight in gold. I used to read the new ones like a magazine when I'd buy a new can and order the factory manuals.

Ranger manuals

kissfreeek

for years i have asked the question of the definition of driveability and Ive got mixed answers, could someone please give me the true definition of driveability????

kiawah

This question is like the meaning of life.......

It's as viewed by the owner-operator. What I view as highly driveable, is certainly different than what you may view.

As an example, some require manual transmissions to match engine power to speed and road conditions, others require auto transmissions as they don't want to be bothered, and some people are indifferent which kind of transmission.

There is no 'right' or 'single' answer to your question.

lindsey314

Last night, I was parked for about 10 minutes with the car running. All of a sudden the car stalled. Upon trying to restart, it sounds like it is trying to start but won't. After several attempts, the car starts and after about 5 seconds of shaking, it again stalls. Car will not stay on. Prior to this, I have had no such issues with the vehicle. I bought it brand new less than a year ago and it only has 10,600 miles on it. I had its first 10,000 mile service (oil change) done about a month ago. I had the car towed to the dealer and I am waiting to have it fixed. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated!

kiawah

It's under warranty....let the dealership worry about it. The problem could be anything.

franko50

No this is not the spring loaded tentioner pulley. It's just an idler pulley that is non adjustable, the clutch fan is bolted to this. A/C compresser sits on top, then this Accessory bracket with this shaft and bearing, the pulley is smooth the clutch fan bolts to the pulley. At the very bottom of this bracket is your altenator. My tensioner pulley is on the oppisit side of this bracket. Faceing the motor, A/C Compressor,Acc. bracket, altenator on the left with idler pulley,in the center is the water pump on the right is my tensioner pulley and power steering pump. Went to a local dealer for jeep, they have this accessory bracket but it doesn't come with the shaft or bearing.

0patience

There are 2 idler pulleys, one under the A/C compressor and another underneath the power steering pulley.
If it is the 4 cylinder (you didn't say whether 4 cyl or 6 cyl, which would have helped) and my memory serves me correctly, the 2 idlers should be about $15-$18 each.
The bolt in the center comes out and the pulley comes off the bracket.

This should be the part number
Idler Pulley part number 4792112

sarahjoparker

We have a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder LE which works great, but yesterday the key would not turn. The car recognizes it bcs the car beeps when the key is in and the door is open, but it won't turn at all. In the past when this has been the case I could just turn the steering wheel back and forth and it would finally turn, but this time the wheel moved freely and no matter what I did the key wouldn't turn. This also happened to my sister in law, and she said they were hours in the car working with it before the key finally turned. She said they put WD40 in, but she didn't know if that make a difference. Can anyone help?

sirmoner1

I have a 1997 Mystique and the instrument panel lights and tail lights don't work. The brake lights work and I checked the fuses in the main and auxiliary fuse panel and the light bulbs in the instrument panel and tail lights. Is there an inline fuse that the owners manual doesn't mention or another reason this could be happening?

euphonium

Did you run out of gas? :confuse:

jlundberg

2001 Chevy Suburban, unknown engine size. My sister heard a pop when turning a u-turn and now she has no power steering at all. Hubby checked and NO leaks and all hoses in place, also pump has fluid in it.

Any Ideas?

Mr_Shiftright

How 'bout the belt that drives the pump?

jlundberg

I have found out they took wheels to mechanic, Thanks for responding.

kissfreeek

there has to be a general answer to this question, every shop i have worked for has asked if i do driveability, my answer to them has always been that i may not know everything but i will use every resource at my disposal to figure it out, so again i ask, what is the GENERAL definition to driveability ???
And thank you by the way for responding to me.

The confused technician.

0patience

The term originally meant that you could diagnose problems that you could determine by road testing the vehicle.
Mostly engine operating problems.

Misses, crossfires, fuel problems and things like that.
Over time, it has grown to include emissions, check engine light problems, transmission and exhaust (cat problems) that affect the "comfort" of the driver.

It is so loosely used that I don't think you will find any real definition to the term.

When most shops ask about driveability any more, most are asking if you do diagnostics. Then again, I could be wrong, not knowing the shops.

bottgers

...Civic EX have an interference or a non-interference engine?

0patience

According to all the info I have, it is an interference engine.