Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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The best way to adjust this is at night (find the adjustments in the daytime), with your car pulled up about 15-20 feet away from a garage door. That way you see the impact on the light when you turn each adjustment.
If you have a plastic bezel and it's getting foggy from sun ultraviolet waves and road debris hitting it...they do make a polishing kit which you can buy at autoparts chains. I've found them only partially useful, and have just replaced the bezels when they get too bad.
I have a 2000 honda accord 4 cyl automatic, with 99k.
This week, my local gas station mechanic replaced the timing belt, balancer belt, and water pump, (routine maintenance- not due to a problem). When I start the car, I hear a high pitched whine. By the way, I asked for honda parts, and he said he was giving me a honda water
pump and a "gates" belt. I showed him the noise, and he said "bring it back if it doesn't go away in a few weeks".
What do you think?
6 cylinder
automatic
74,000
had dead battery. replaced battery and cables. battery gauge and oil gauge move down when driving. Battery goes to half or just below. Gauges are good when the car first starts up. battery gauge really dips when I push driver seat buttons. One button( foward and back recently quit working) Diagnostic test said everything was fine.
BTW, do you have a Samoyed?....I used to breed them 30 years ago.
You might try listening on the valve cover/s to see if it seems to be coming from there. Get a wooded dowel rod, place it on the valve cover, put your thumb on the top of the rod, stick the end of your thumb into your ear. Move it around to locate the area of loudest tic.
This trick gives you a tool almost as good as buying a mechanic's steatscope (sp).
Be carefull you don't get the dowel rod into a belt, pulley, or fan!!
Don't know what 'shop' you took it to, however you might want to consider taking it to one of the autoparts chains (pepboys, autozone, etc). They have battery/alternator testers which will connect to your car, and test your electrical system underload and with the engine running. This is a free service.
Back firing would not be a symptom that you would expect if it wasn't getting any gas. Back firing could be caused by a number of things like (but not limited to):
- intake valves aren't shutting completely, so when the spark ignites the mixture it backfires up thru the intake manifold.
- timing is off, so instead of the valves being shut when the sparkplug ignites, the plug is firing at the wrong time and the valves are still open.
- too much gas mixture, which is unable to be burnt correctly.
- some bad ignition parts, which are not firing the plugs consistently when they should, dumping unburnt gas mixture into the exhaust manifold.
-etc
The clue that it only does it after an hour and half (or I'm guessing might be heat related when it is very hot) would mean something, I'm just mentally fried right now and can't think what that might be.
2002 ford escape v-6 auto
50,000 miles
None of this makes any sense.
What EXACTLY is the compression on the engine?
If the engine has no compression, then they should have done a leak down test to determine where the compression was going.........FIRST!
How did they determine that the timing was correct?
They pulled the head and did the valves and reinstalled it and you still have no compression?
I gotta tell you, it doesn't sound like the shop knows what they are doing, unless I am missing part of the story.
But again the story is strange. If just one cylinder had 30 psi compression, and the rest tested out, the car would have started, and he should have known that. If th 30 psi was in all cylinders, well then the car would not have started.
I'd certainly ask to see, or talk to, the shop that did the machine work. It would be interesting to know if the cylinder head were even off the car at some point.
Was any trouble codes checked before the head replacement was done?
I have to ask though, what was the concern when it went to the shop?
That will determine what should have been the correct course of diagnosis.
With out knowing what the original problem was, it is hard to say what they should have done and what they shouldn't have done.
Thanks, Dave
Otherwise, if you wish to put one from the left to the right, you should dismount them and put them on the rim in the same rotation it was in.
I have a vibration driving above 40 mph. It seems like a pavement vibration with a frequency about that of the off the road indicators if one goes too far right (but not that pronounced). I have replaced all tires with a front end alignment, all four hubs, and tie rod ends. The problem is worse on left turn curves, going up hills, and with heavier loads (three or more passengers). Has anyone else seen this?
4 cyclinder 2.0\
Auto
95,000
Problem Car SOMETIMES wont start unless i give it alittle gas, it also sometimes starts and the cd player will not work or my turn signals. Gas mileage is starting to drop alot......10 miles or less to a gallon I used to get around 25 or more.
I am getting a tune in a week or 2 but any cheaper or better ideas?
Also worn out oxygen sensor.
Perhaps a tune will work everything out. Your symptoms could be multiple problems. it's often a serious of little things rather than one big one that causes stuff like this to happen, especially on an older car like yours.
So yeah, get the basic tune up out of the way and see what goes from there.
Sent you some help.
Good luck