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Coolant temp sensor within spec. Air temp. sensor too lo resistance when cold. I had substitute it with a 40kOhm resistor, still no help. Fuel press ok but leaks to tank in 20 min after shutdown, but cranking 1 sec gets it back. Are TP and MAF sensors also related to Starting? What else should I check? This prob existed since i bought it used. 1/2 yr ago
Thanks
Al
On a Ranger, if difficult to start cold, but starts fine hot - here is one usual problem. The motor has 2 temperature sensors. One goes to the temp gauge on the dask. There is another sensor that feed the computer. It tells the computer that the motor is cold. In a cold start, the computer changes the fuel delivery - more fuel, in a longer pulse of the injectors. If this sensor is bad, the computer thinks it is a hot start - and it is real tough to start when cold.
These temp sensors are usually both on or near the housing for the thermostat. The gauge one usually has one wire. The one that talks to the computer usually has two wires, many times they are a black wire and a yellow wire twisted together.
If I had a hard start problem, I would replace this temp sensor.
My headlights go off and on, After researching this and checking the fuses under the dash & relay under the hood and owners manual I understand the relay and all the mechanics are in the switch itself. (RIGHT?) The switch being the device on the dash used to turn the lights off and on. How in the world do you get this out? I don't want to try anything with out advice. The Ford place is too expensive.
2 other small problems
My speedometer still works but my odometer and of course tripometer quit.
My left front turn signal lense is busted. The local Ford dealership says they can not get this. Do you know where I could get one?
My keyless handheld entry unlocks all doors but the drivers. You can unlock all doors but the drivers with the pad on the door if you put the code in the push 3. Any ideas?
Can't help you on the odometer. If everything wasn't working, I'd suspect the sensor that is on the transmission...but that is obviously working since your speedometer is working. Possibly your odometer cluster might have a problem, or the odometer reset switch.
Go to a junk yard to pick up a 'pre-owned' left front signal lens. Look in your yellow pages, or online if by some chance you don't have a wrecker yard in reasonable proximity.
On your drivers door, I would suspect a linkage broke in your drivers door, from the unlock actuator to the door locking mechanism. You have to take the door apart to see what is going on.
If helminc has your vehicle, in addition to the schematics you could also see the factory service manuals to show you how to take the door (and/or electrical switch) apart.
$9.95 for a 72-hour period access
I didn't know they did that.
I was going to suggest getting Helm manuals for Lincoln online from ebay or something if possible.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you have plenty of coolant, chances are its not your thermostat, because if it were stuck you'd overheat in ten minutes.
That leaves us with the possibility of a stuck or inoperative heater control valve.
The tricky part comes next.
How is your heater valve controlled? (vacuum servo? vacuum/electric?)
AND is the heater valve or servo defective, or is it not getting the proper signal to operate from your automatic climate control system?
Some ideas for you....
Kindly let me know if I can clean pefume spots on gear leather handel,aluminum interior surrounding it including ashtray cover and black blastic aircondition indicator.I am in jeddah KSA.
Many thanks.
click Submit
Pick Service and Owner Information --right on the words or on the "click here"
Put in 1997
Put in Mark viii for the model
click on search
This should get ou to a list of choices. Read down and you'll find the online stuff.
Often the original factory service manuals are offered on Ebay (at your risk)and if you know what it should look like you can pick up the right ones there. But only one for 1997 shows and it looks like a ring binder rather than a Helm bound book that's a factory service manual. I'm not sure it will be what you'd want.
I don't recommend the disks sold on Ebay with factory manuals on them. I bought one on a lark and can't get it to work on my computer.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Ford does not give you alot of information on this. I guess the I need to see if I can get a service manual from FORD.
I should probably have mentioned I do not have the digital da
Another common problem is that you have lost vacuum to the actuators for the blend doors.
It is sounding like you have a broken or cracked vacuum line though.
You may want to check all of the vacuum hoses to see if they are cracked or broken.
Second, have you tried your local library for a Chilton's manual? If they don't have it, they can probably request it for inter-library loan.
Or go to a good bookstore and buy one.
I don't think you need an OEM or other service manual for this.
I really believe the stalk switch is going to control a relay for the headlights. You may have "flash to pass" and hi-beam relaying as well.
If there is a relay in the stalk, I'd be really really surprised.
One thing you could do is pull and replace each fuse and each relay you find, to make sure everything is seated well.
Good luck.
I have an Owners Guide. I have checked all fuses having any thing to do with headlamps in the instrument panel fuse box (left of steering wheel ) and under the hood high current fuse pane (behind the battery). All fuses good,checked visually and with test light and are well seated. Hand traced wiring from head light as far as possible for bare wires. Made sure all ground wires are tight at firewall. Checked battery cable ends for corrosion and replaced cable ends just in case. Alternator working properly.
I still have not located a relay for headlamps? Could it be any other place but locations I have discussed.
owners guide shows -listed under Fuse/CB/Relay Location it shows in headlamp switch with a description showing headlamp sensor / high beam indicator.
Ford service manager said switch and connector probably bad but could not get it in for a week or more and last time I took it in for some a window motor and a few other minor things that i just wanted repaired to keep it up to date I did not get it back for 2 weeks. Of course he would only give minimal info.
I guess I will try to figure out how to access the switch and replace it
Schematics here:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/3d/a8/0900823d80173da8/repai- rInfoPages.htm
and this:
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Ford-Repair-811/headlight-switch.htm
and this for motocraft parts like headlight switches:
http://www.motorcraft.com/catalog.do?from=page
OK, after looking at a few of these schematics, maybe it is all a function of the multi-function switch, i.e. no interposing relay. But if there is an auto-off function, then that would suggest some intermediate relay to kill power and that might be involved...
Sorry I cannot be of more help to you.
I bought a manual at Advance. I'm going to read through it. I can use it in the future.
6 cyl
Transmission: Auto
Mileage: 75k
Problem: I live in South Florida and just had a change in radiator coolant but am driving up to Ga where, due to a cold front, the predicted drive time temperatures will at times be below freezing. As I may be stopping for an hour or two along the way, what precautions should I take. Needless to say, there was no antifreeze available at the stores I checked in S. Fl.
It could be a bad DRL module. I guess I would check for it in the vicinity of the radiator below the headlights, although maybe your manual has better advice.
If so, stopping for an hour or two isn't going to freeze up the motor, but overnight stop with 20 degree temps could freeze and crack the block. And in Ga I think you might see those temps.
No one should run straight water. I would hope any service person would refill a coolant system with 50/50 coolant and water. Even in south Florida there should be antifreeze for sale everywhere because it is needed 12 months of the year, in any temperature range. It allows to cooling system to not boil over until about 250degrees, which is needed in the heat to keep the car running cool.
Pull the headlight switch and disconnect the connector from it and I am sure you will see that the connector has burnt.
You will have to replace the connector and the switch.
Most Ford dalers keep the replacement connectors in stock.
The first check I would do is pull the switch and see if the connector is melted.
It will be pretty obvious, if it is.
5.4L V8
auto
214 406kms
it keeps stalling when and not driving.
I ve already cleaned out the tank,replaced fuel filter also added all kinds of pour in your tank remedies.so far none have worked.
i have found when cleaning the tank their was about a 1/4 inch of dirt and ice in it
what can i do to fix this. :mad:
The connector starts to have a problem and causes heat. When that happens, the breaker starts kicking in and out.
Replacing only the switch is often only a temporary solution.
Usually you have to replace the connector and switch.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
they probably fail because the conductor surface is small and the HL must sink a good deal of current transiently and then a fair amount steady-state. this no doubt causes oxidation and localized heating and failure, either at the SW contacts or on a crimped connection.
not a great implementation.
i only provided probable (guessed) location of the DRL module incase replacement of the SW (and connector) doesn't clear the problem - but it seems you got a good handle on the situation.
Anyway, It has been 20 degrees here the last 3 morning so I havent messed with it much but I will let yall know when I change the switch. wish me luck
THANKS
The door's fit into its opening?
Or, the window fit?
on the net the newsest info i could find was for a 1996 grand prix
thank you
Or, the 'striker plate' just needs adjustment. This is the part on the door post where the door latches onto. If you are not handy with tools, I don't advise you attempting to do this. A large screwdriver, or maybe torx driver, or maybe other tool might be needed to loosen this up.
This is a minor adjustment for a body shop. A nice one might do this for a 15 minute or half hour charge - $25 or $50. Ask for an estimate before you let them do the job.
2.3L 5spd.
In the Hayne's manual, there is a very vague description of how to read trouble codes with the Key On Engine Off, by means of sweeps made by the Voltage gauge. One sweep followed by another sweep after two seconds have elapsed would mean "Code 11", for instance.
Is there a trick to getting these codes to be presented? Would I have to connect a code reader, or are these types of trouble codes infinite in that they are readable whenever the key is in the 'On' position, and don't require a code reader to be activated.
I haven't been able to get the Voltage Sweeps they're talking about, despite my 'Check Engine' light being on.
Thanks in advance
Follow the directions on that page.
If the rod is releasing the lock, it must be something broken right in the locking mechanism itself. Maybe you can get your fingers in there. It's just a little ratchet wheel holding it shut.
I would guess some other thing in the climate control system is probably broken. I'm sure this Lexus has automatic climate control, and there are a lot of sensors, controls, vacuum lines, and moving vanes that could have failed. Especially on a 15 year old vehicle.