Got a Quick, Technical Question?

kiawah

I'd check the price at both a local auto parts chain (don't know where you are at, PepBoys, Autozone, NAPA, etc)....and then also the dealership. Hard to know your pricing rates but If the price isn't that much different, you may just want to get the dealer part.

mrfixit2

Don't know if this is place for this question, but...

1990 Oldsmobile CS. Replacing crankshaft sensor. Removed bolt, but sensor will not come out, how can I remove it?

'90 Olds Cutlass Supreme,6 cyl,FWD,3.1 (auto) engine - 95,000k

Removed the bolt from crankshaft sensor and attempted to pull sensor free, but would only spin in place and not move. Applying more pressure resulted in plastic casing cracking at which point I stopped. How do I get the old (probably original) sensor out?

maudit87

Hey all, my cars engine will turn over but wont start. I have some ideas as to what it could be that I'm trying out but was wondering about two things.

1. On cars after '96, mine being a 99 Blazer w/ a 4.3l v6 engine, can you just turn on the electric and run a scan tool? I think I read somewhere that the information concerning problems is stored on the computer in the car.

2. If I can't do that, and if the information is stored on the computer, can I take the computer out of the car to a garage and find out that way?

Year/Make/Model: (1999 Chevy Trialblazer)
Engine: (V6 4.3l)
Transmission: (Auto)
Miledge: (dont know)
Problem: (Engine turns over but wont start. Misfires while trying to start.)
OtherInfo: (I'm replaceing the disributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, and plug wires.)

imidazol97

You need to find a friend with a scanner to do the scan at your house.

Check with some of the nationwide/local parts stores. Many loan and rent equipment. I would be disappointed if one didn't loan out an Actron level scanner for do-it-yourselfers to use at home. In this area PepBoys (had an inch-pounds torque wrench for me), Autozone, Advance Auto, and local NAPA and other name brand stores didn't compete by being do-it-yourself friendly. Local Advanced was going to hand me their scanner to do my own scan since one of the counter people wasn't available.

Good luck.

If worse comes to worse, you could buy a scanner and return it. But I would hesitate to do that myself.

Mr_Shiftright

This might interest you as well:

lnexpensive Pocket Scanner

bigmark1

hi i have a 1996 mercury villager 3.0 150k miles when its first started cold it runs like day one new ,however after it reaches operating temp it begins to buck and run verrry rough eventually stalling it will run if i keep hitting the accel pedal and after it stalls it can be restarted but idles erratic eventually stalling again also the exhaust smells like rotten eggs but only after the problem happens if left to cool off all the way it will run normally but only to operating temp then the whole cycle starts again im totally stumped thanx in advance...Mark

maxeybilly

Kiawah, I'll take your advise on the parts sources and check with each of them (we have them all in Tulsa). Will Chilton's be a good enough guide on this job for a DIY'er, or do I need the mentoring from someone who has actually done this? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

Has it thrown a trouble code? What does it say?

This sounds like an overly rich fuel mixture being instigated perhaps by a faulty sensor that fails to tell the computer that the engine has warmed up and doesn't need further enrichment on a cold start.

You'd best not drive the vehicle anymore (not that it sounds like it's much fun) as you will destroy the catalytic converter with all this raw fuel.

yimmy

I have a 1990 5.0 ford thunderbird. I am looking for a map sensor for it and can only find 1986-88 5.0 tbird sensors. Is this the right sensor for me? Thanks.

bigmark1

yes it threw a code 34 engine knock sensor fault obtained by jumping the diagnostic connector and observing the check engine light, this was the only code i could get in this fashion getting a hand scanner on wed. as a side note the check engine light does NOT come on prior to or during its seizures. as the problem surfaces the engine will jerk a couple of times and the problem gets progressively worse within a few min it almost feels as if something is switching the ignition off and on VERY quickly sorry if im rambling but i want you to have as much info as possible
thank you for your help

Mr_Shiftright

Hmmm....I bet other codes will show up here. I'm not sure why a knock sensor would cause a car to stall---it could definitely make it run with less power, as this affects engine timing. Fortunately you do have OBD-II diagnostics on that car (first year for it I think), so you can get more info on a thorough scan.

bigmark1

so you dont think it would be the knock sensor, cool that thing it a pain to replace , are there any other codes that dont throw a check engine light pertaining to fuel management? thank you for all your help....Mark

Mr_Shiftright

Possibly fuel pressure issue, bad pressure regulator, screwed up injector spray pattern---they only sure way is to make a "diagnostic tree" and get out your volt/ohm meter and test each suspect individually.

Often with codes people make the assumption that the computer is telling you which component is defective. This is simply not true. Computers cannot do that yet. All they can tell you is which "circuit" or loop or system is unhappy.

yimmy

I have a 1990 5.0 ford thunderbird. I am looking for a map sensor for it and can only find 1986-88 5.0 tbird sensors. Is this the right sensor for me? Thanks

maudit87

Thanks for the replies on the problem. I'm replaceing the plugs today, and was planning on buying a scanner tomorrow. So the Actron scanners are good, I was looking at the one up from that, the $60 one.

toomanyfumes

Fuel pressure regulators are an issue on these Villager/Quest's, I replaced mine twice on my '01, both Nissan parts. Vehicle would start then stall.

bolivar

Why haven't you gone to a part house? Are you just trying to find a salvage/used one to put on?

A parts house, Autozone, OReilly, PepBoys, etc could easily have parts books that will show what applications work for you.

Or, all of the above businesses have online parts lookup that you can get to via your computer. Look up the part for your car and write down their part number for it. Change the year on the car to the year you are asking about, and look up that part. If it is the same part number, then you are probably ok to use a salvage part from the other years.

luckins

I have a 2004 Aveo with 59,000 miles that I bought a month ago with standard disc/drum brakes. I know the rear brakes have had new pads put on just before I bought it. But, on the front, I noticed that the pads looked fairly new, but the rotors had not been turned, at least recently. I noticed some grooves on the rotor that I don't think I saw before I bought the car, but I can't be sure. They are very minor, shallow, polished, and looked old.

The thing is, I hear a scraping sound on the brakes when I brake very hard, but I don't see or feel any fresh scraping on the rotors. It sounds like it's coming from the front and it's only when I'm driving forward. Can it be anything else other than the brakes eating the rotors?

I am going to keep an eye on them and if the grooves get worse, I'm having a brake job done.

maxeybilly

My 2004 Buick Rendezous CXL has lighted audio contols on each side of the steering wheel.I noticed that the light behind the right side control is out. The controls (volume, mute, etc) still work, just not the light. Does anyone know if this is a DIY fix? I don't want to go to the stealer and pay big bucks just to fix a bulb, but not sure I can do it without getting in over my head either. And, if it is a DIY where does one start on a thing like that? Do the little toggles switches just pop out or does the wheel covering need to come off? Anyone?

imidazol97

I have not done this myself. ON the H-bodies (leSabre, Bonneville) the buttons can be wiggled up by pulling with a paperclip going around the buttons. The bulbs are small bulbs and are NOT available at the dealer. They will sell you a whole switch unit. In the buttons you wiggle up are little rubber sticks that give the resistance as you rock each side of the switch. Be careful not to drop those, i.e., use a cloth under the work area so you can find one when you drop it.

Someone said there used to be a source for the lights, but they no longer carried the bulbs to solder in yourself...

If you do take it apart, let us know what bulbs you found...

mariettasquare

1998 S70 GLT. 120k miles After depressing brake pedal, brake lights stay on. Pedal snaps back up ok (spring seems ok), but I can pull it up ever so slightly with left foot and lights go off. Some side to side play in pedal. Is there a switch or something that could cause problem?

Mr_Shiftright

You sure it's not a vibration?

luckins

I'm pretty sure it's not pulsating or vibrating. But, it does, sometimes, slightly pull to one side, but it's barely noticeable to me (and I'm really picky, so I know most people wouldn't notice it). But, every time I hear that noise, I thoroughly check the rotors in the front and there is no change.

It seems to only happen when I brake hard on hills. I don't normally brake like this, but I'm checking through a list of things on this car that I might need to have fixed and brakes is about two things down on the list (most of the problems aren't serious, but I like to have things a certain way on my cars). It's possible that it's the rear brakes and I know that rear brakes on GM cars can make this noise if the pads are new or the drums were recently turned. I'm not sure if the drums were turned on this car, though, but it's very likely, and I'm 100% positive it has new rear pads. My Geo made this same noise right after having a 4 wheel brake job and it was much, much worse than this.

luckins

"This might interest you as well:

lnexpensive Pocket Scanner"

Cool, not only did I find that interesting, I found other things that look like fun, too.

maxeybilly

Imidazol...thanks for the tips; all info is helpful. I guess I will need to determine first if the bulbs (assuming it is a bulb problem) can be purchased. If not and I need to buy a switch unit from the stealer then I will. Let you know how this comes out. Thanks again, Bill

bigmark1

hi all thank you so very much for all your help after reading all your great suggestions i warmed up my 96 villager waiting for the thing to start acting up which sure enough it did so i removed the dist cap and rotor and cover to the cam position sensor a small puff of compressed air was applied to the photo sensor a huge amount of dirt was liberated from it after reassembly lo and behold it ran better than it has in years you all have saved me alot of time and money again thank you ...Mark AKA bigmark1

qbrozen

The light switch is behind the pedal arm and not connected to it, so no, it couldn't cause the problem. The arm is apparently hanging up a bit. Might just try lubing it at the hinge.

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe there's some debris causing this, or perhaps a sticking caliper. It's worth a look-see.

imidazol97

Collision Catalog - 2004 - Buick - Rendezvous
Steering wheel, Steering wheel and trim, Control switch, Neutral, W/o leather Right $14...

There are switches left and right an switches without leather, gray, neutral and oak. Under steering wheel
at
gmpartsdirect.com

rockauto.com didn't seem to have this part...

Without consulting my service manual, those switch replacements may require removing the airbag and that means properly disabling them in a certain manner to avoid injury due to sudden, unexpected detonation (would they ever be expectedly detonated?).
:sick:

lwc2

2006 Chevy Equinox,45850 miles, 6 cyl, auto trans,

Question....In the top of the airbox, above the air filter there is a foam? filter that is permanent according to GM. Can this "permanent" filter be removed for better gas mileage?
Thanks!

maxeybilly

Imidazol...again, thanks for the add'l info. I hadn't even stopped to think about the airbag risk factor. That makes me even more hesitant to tackle the project. I am taking the Buick to my mechanic in a few days to have other service done and will ask if he thinks its worth messing with or should just leave well enough alone.

It all sounds kinda dicey to me. If anyone has ever done this project I would sure appreciate hearing from you. Thanks in advance, Bill

luckins

I think you might be right. The night I posted this, I had stepped on the brakes very hard several times and noticed the noise. But, the next day, the squeek that I was getting with the rear brakes was greatly diminished. So, maybe it is dust in the drums or the linings adjusting.

I drove the car for 4 hours today in the desert and got lots of chances to press on the brakes while going up and down the mountains. I didn't notice any pulling at all today.

fangio2

After sitting for abour 4 mos I tried starting my rx7.The car started after pouring some fuel in the carburator.It ran for about 5 mins and then shut off.I tried restaring it but the fuel pump would not come on.What wires do i check(or fuses)or do I need a new fuel pump?
THANKS

randy89

I am not sure where i should post this but i guess here is good... i was wondering where i could purchase original parts for my 89 cadillac brougham... i need a driver side mirror and a trunk lock few other things just dont want to list. thank you

kiawah

I'd be checking the junk yards, urrr wait I guess they are called scrap yards, urr wait maybe called previously loved and pre-owned.

imidazol97

>junk yards, urrr wait I guess they are called scrap yards, urr wait maybe called previously loved and pre-owned.

"Recycling yards"

luckins

I'd thought I'd ask this here in case anyone had any ideas about this. My 2004 Aveo's ignition key and CD player gets progressively hotter the longer I drive. I'm afraid I'm going to, eventually, melt the CDs or damage the key, which has an immobilizer chip. I'm not the only Aveo owner that has this problem and I've heard of many other brands of cars with these sophisticated anti-theft equipment having the same problem. Right now, mine isn't as bad as others because it actually takes a long time before it gets extremely hot, but other people's keys/CDs get hot right away.

So, my question is what causes this and what could be the fix for it?

mrted

I have a 1998 Expedition Eddie Bauer 4 wheel drive with 5.4 V8. Auto trans 181500 miles. This morning we woke up to 10 inches of snow and I had to take my granddaughter to work and I tried to use the 4 wheel drive but it would not engage and no lights on the dash I have tried to find a fuse that might be blown and I looked in the owners manual but could not figure out which applied to the 4 wheel drive system. It has not been used very much and this is the first time I have had any problem. Can you suggest any thing I might do beside taking to a dealer. THANKS

Mr_Shiftright

I'm wondering if this is related to the heating system or not. Is your heater on when this happens or does it happen if the heater is off as well?

mariettasquare

Thanks, but the pedal arm appears to be moving freely & snaps back up sharply. I'm just thinking it may be the "push-button" type switch that is sticking, or maybe the switch has lost alignment or has come loose. I just don't think it is mechanical as related to the pedal arm unless the pin that the pedal arm rotates on is so worn that it is causing the problem.
I found a replacement stop lamp switch online for about $35, but I just don't know what is involved to replace it. If it is easy, that may be a relatively cheap starting point.
Or I could take it to the dealer where they would probably want to replace everything.

luckins

Thanks.

Yeah, the heater and everything else is off, except the radio. It seems that only the ignition cylinder lock gets hot, the rest of the steering column doesn't seem to be affected, but it could be if I drive longer. Other parts could be getting hot and I just don't notice it. The instrument panel seems to put out a bit heat even with the lights off, also, but not really noticeable. I'm glad the AC is extra cold in my car.

The radio will get hot sometimes on it's own, especially when it's been in the sun, but the CDs get way hotter. It could be because they're closed in real tight in that player. My CDROM drive on my computer is built in a similar fashion and CDs get pretty hot in there, too.

qbrozen

huh. I guess I misunderstood your original post. I thought you meant the pedal sticks down and then snaps back up. So you mean the pedal works fine, but the switch is sticking. In which case, yes, it sounds like the switch needs replacing (if I understand you correctly this time).

It isn't tough to replace, just tough to get to it. I had to pretty much have my legs straight up over the seatback and my head down in the footwell, flashlight in teeth. Good luck.

EDIT: ok... i just went back and reread. When you originally said "snaps" up, I guess I misinterpreted that. HOWEVER, I also believe the switch may be ok now that I've reread. It sounds to me like you are saying the pedal is not coming back up far enough to disengage the switch.

It sounds like either the pedal is no longer coming all the way back up (spring?) or the switch has somehow gotten too close to the arm. For the simplest solution, I would get under there and take a look at what is going on. You may just need to readjust the position of the switch (I can't remember if it can be adjusted, but I'm sure something could be done).

Mr_Shiftright

Well I guess there's not much you can do until something fails, if it does. It seems a bit hasty to go tearing the guts out of the dashboard looking for...what? exactly, if you know what I mean. One would think that any real problem would have been addressed by the fuses, which would have blown had their been a dangerous electrical load on those components. Probably as you say, just too tight in there. I guess a clever person could buy a pyrometer and get under there and measure, starting from cold start up, what is exactly heating up on its own and what is BEING heated up.

morehp2

Just a quick update re: the shaking Camry. It turned out that the parking brake was intermittently applying while driving, presumably causing lockup of one of the rear wheels. It has now been almost a month of smooth sailing since a local independent mechanic replaced the cable and repaired the mechanism.

Sure makes me feel good to know that the local 'yota dealer missed this twice and then told us to keep driving the car!

Thanks to everyone here for their advice.

maxeybilly

OBD scan showed Crankshaft Positioning Sensor on my '97 T-Bird as fault code. I bought the part, and a Chilton's to do the job but manual was so anemic 5'm stuck. It was obvious I have to move the AC Compressor in order to remove the Sensor but i don't know which bolts are the one to remove and Chilton's only says "Remove bolts which hold Compressor to mounting bracket.: Yow, right!!!! Thanks a lot. I spotted no less than 6 bolts all in different locations which could be the ones. As hard as they are to break loose, I'm not too interested in busting a gut over the wrong bolts, besides, I might take something loose that might mess up the Compressor. If anyone can tell me which bolts (manual says "bolts" -plural...so I know there must be at least 2 in a set. The bolts which go from front to back and look like they might be mounting bolts are 3 but they look like they will bottom out on the Compressor pulley before they are removed. Stymied. Help, Please, anyone. Thanks

luckins

Yeah. I'm mostly worried about the transponder in the key getting fried and not being able to start the vehicle after a long drive. One guy who complained to NHTSA about the problem said that he had a thermometer measure the temperature after driving for 45 minutes and it was 111 degrees for the lock and 94 degrees for the key. That's not that hot considering that the interior of the car can get much hotter. I hear there's some kind of fix for it, possibly, but they will only do it if the key is blazing hot right away.

As for the CDs, someone suggested that I keep them in a cooler until ready to use. That might not be a bad idea. I don't know if the key or the radio heating up are related.

Thanks!

watt476

Does anyone know why this is? It runs even when the motor's cold. It's a 91 olds ciera-3.3L auto. I recently replaced the alternator.
Thanks for any information.

luckins

I know this was posted a long time ago, I was just browsing through the older posts and saw this. In California, if you are missing the piece that you just described, you will fail the smog tests. So, it is probably necessary to have that part. Like what was said before, if the engineers designed the car to have that piece, then there's a reason for it.

louieseven

1983 Nissan Sentra Wagon E-16 1.6Liter engine w/AC

Hi ~ there is a small electrically operated 'vacuum switch' about the size of a pingpong ball mounted on the passenger-side firewall. It has two 1/4" vacuum hoses attached. One routes behind the carb and connects to the Throttle Diaphram; The other is just hanging loose and I cannot discover where it connects. I'd like to know where it connects; or at very least, what purpose it serves so I can deduce where it connects.

THANK YOU

widriver2

Hi,

I am bringing my 2005 Sienna mini-van in for 30,000 mile service. I'm noticing the dealer schedule includes many things the manufacturer schedule does not. I know I've read this is a big scam that dealerships do to make extra money.

Here are some of the items:

Automatic Transmission Flush and Fill. The manual just says check this fluid.
Differential Service-manual says for 4WD and manual trransmissions
Brake Fluid Change-manual says INSPECT brake lines and hoses

How often do these fluids really need to be replaced if the manual just says to inspect them. This will add $300 to the service.