Got a Quick, Technical Question?

liirishman

I have a 2003 Toyota Sequoia with 4WD.I'm also looking at a 2005 Toyota Sienna LE AWD. Could you please explain the difference between the 2 systems and ais the AWD any good. Thank you

bearjd

Today i noticed my right rear blinker was not working,so i take it apart and notice it looked burned and so i replace it.Well that did not work so i tested and it appears it does not have power to the plug,so my question is what could be the problem because i am by far any electrical or mechanicaly inclined.Thanks for any solutions.

victor_gallagh

There could be a broken wire somewhere, but I traced my same problem (1990 F 350) to a bad 'Turn Signal Switch'. This switch is located under the steering wheel, you will need a steering wheel 'Puller'. The switch is about $80.00, if I remember right. The wiring 'pig-tail' has to be threaded down the steering column, probably the hardest part of the replacement.

You may be able to repair the switch as the switch as the 'Cat whisker wire' contacts (where the front and rear turn signal wires are split) may be just bent or stuck out of place.

georgem404

does anyone know the approximate cost of relacing the turbo (1999 saab 9/3 turbo) in the event that it fails.....it runs great now,,,,64k miles....runs like new.....what is the expected life of the turbo....thanks

Mr_Shiftright

Book says $625 + 2.7 hours labor, so in my neck of the woods looks like about $1,000.

The turbo should last well over 100,000 miles up to maybe 150,000. Signs of failure will be a loud siren-like noise and/or blue smoke from the tailpipe on start-up. (LOTS of blue smoke).

georgem404

thanks for your help......it's nice to be able to get good info/advise

keischa

Just bought a 98 BMW 740 il wholesale and cant get the radio to turn on. It worked when I first looked at it but when I picked it up couldnt get it to turn on. The guy I bought it from today said earlier they couldnt get it started and he switch the battery out. It has a navigation system on it but in that screen doesnt say needs any code input for radio. radio just will not turn on. Help.

clgerst

I bought it new - now 8 months old w/10,000 miles on it. It just started sounding funny, like in wrong gear, especially accelerating from a stop but always sounds odd now, just less odd at higher speeds (whining like sound when going over rumble strips, or an old underpowered car as you pass it - (no judgment here!)). I feel some vibrations in the accelerator pedal too.
The dealer said bring it in for a few hours - I leave on a 1,150 mile trip tomorrow morning in this car (with toddlers and grandparents) and have work today and sleep tonight (I hope).
Assuming this is a transmission issue(?) could this strand me somewhere, or degrade my MPG?
Should I try to get the car in before the dealer closes tonight at 10pm? What are the odds they could correct it by morning?
Thanks!

burdawg

I would cancel the trip and get it looked at myself, or drive something else if possible.

harbo

Sounds like warranty and a couple days at the service dept assuming they have a tranny (or) parts in stock. Daughters 2000 had the transmission replaced under warranty. Great dealer.

I believe Honda has a replacement vehicle program under warranty (or) if the dealer is worth their salt they will provide a replacement for you. GO FOR IT ..... good luck.

maferena

2006 toyota sienna LE, 6cyl, auto, 60000miles
I am seriously considering buying this van off of ebay today, but the seller told me that there are lovebugs on the hood. I read that their bodies are acidic and can ruin paint finishes. If the bugs aren't washed in 48 hrs, they are permanant. She offered to repaint the hood, but I have heard that it is a bad idea to take down the original paint, but said that this is common in Florida and the hood doesn't look bad. I don't know if this should be a deterrent to purchasing an otherwise fantastic van, or if I should have the hood painted, or forget about the bugs and buy as is. Help!

Mr_Shiftright

Just buy it as it is and deduct for the hood repaint and then YOU have it done. There is nothing wrong with repainting a car if it's done right. it will look and wear good as new if a real pro does the job. If the seller does it, they're going to have it done cheapo in all likelihood.

maferena

06 toyota sienna 6cyl auto 60000miles
Is installation of an aftermarket dvd with wireless headphones more complicated if there are no rear audio controls already? I am not sure if I will get in dash or dvd on the unit. I could live with either.

trinidaduribe

2003 Tahoe 5.3 liter 8 cylinder, automatic transmission, 82,000 miles,
we have had problems not starting over the past few weeks, the battery has checked out ok, but the motor will not turn over. just a slight click but not the typical battery clicking. In the past it would take a few minutes to finally start, but not today it just has not wanted to start at all. Has anyone had this type of problem. Help....

smokey75

What does it do when you hit the button? Do you hear anything like a relay clicking? You can try tapping on the motor under the seat with a screwdriver while you hold the button.

harbo

Sounds like either a bad solenoid or the brush's are not contacting the armature on the starter motor. Perhaps a hammer to tap on each while someone turn's on the key. Be Careful. That is, while laying under the vehicle.

jasonkarch

hello all i just bought a 1994 ford taurus sho and i went to fill the coolant bottle but i over filled it. it stated smoking alil and smelled like burt wires and then the car shut off and wont start is that some kind of saftey thing???? please help

clgerst

Thanks to burdawg and harbo for your replies.

I took the Odyssey in to the dealer on Friday and they looked at it at 6pm. It was not the transmission after all, but a bad ball bearing in the front right wheel. They were able to replace it by 9pm and get the car back for my trip. The car was less noisy and I felt more confident.

I appreciate your advice and am glad to have this resolved.

spcharles14

I am having Coolant Problems on my 2005 Chevrolet Cavalier. I keep filling it with water and it leaks right out. I have to refil the tank everytime I drive or my engine will overheat. If anyone on here may know what the problem is...please help!! Thank You in advance.

wealthwarranty

You obviously have a leak, so without knowing more, I assume you cannot see leak, or you would have mentioned it. To lose that much water is something you should see, or worse, feel in how your engine is running. If your engine is running fine, and your oil dipstick is not sudsy looking, then it has to be external leak, and sometimes not noticable if it evaporates quickly.

Either way, you have a problem you must fix to avoid overheating your engine or you will surely have major engine repairs ahead of you if you drive car while overheated. First and easiet is to look at radiator cap, it may be releasing water with only slightest pressure, and if you are driving, you may not notice since it is under car, when at idle it may not show up. Start there, replace cap, it is cheapest item to buy.

Good luck,

harbo

Do you see any sign of a white'ish or foamy substanceon the oil dipstick?
In other words ....... is the oil on the dipstick clear?

spcharles14

Well I had my car pressure tested and the people told me that my Heater Core was broken. They also told me that they would have to rip apart my entire dash to fix it and that it will cost me $1,435 for parts and labor. Does this sound correct to you??

spcharles14

Mr_Shiftright

No, no safety thing. You must have spilled coolant (or the engine sprayed it) on some electrical component nearby and shorted it out. That's all I can think of, in terms of a connection between these two events you mentioned.

blackdayz

My buddy has a (nissan hardbody) small pickup. He had the clutch and slave cylinder replaced. The slave cylinder needs bled frequently. There is no loss of fluid from the master cylinder. I did a visual inspection and dont see any fluid leaking.
I am stumped, any info would be very helpful.

richardson

Back in the seventies I replaced a heater core on a 69 Dodge Dart. It took me a day and half. I would not want to do that job again. With todays cars being more compressed space wise, I can easily see why they gave you that estimate. Good luck.

kiawah

If you had a leaking heater core, your carpet would be soaked, you would have humidity and moisture in the car (most noticeable in winter with fogging on the windows and the windows up), and you would smell a sweet smelling odor in the car (assuming you have antifreeze in the radiator and not just water.

The fact that you say you are refilling your radiator everyday, and you didn't mention that the passenger side carpet was soaked.....leads me to suspect you probably have a larger leak somewhere else.

I don't know the cost to do your vehicle. I did an old corvette I used to own, it was a bear of a job, and yes you do typically take a lot of the dash apart. The part isn't very expensive, it's a ton of labor however.

kiawah

I would suspect either a defective master or slave cylinder, or if the problem is exactly the same as before replacing the mast&slave, inspect the tubing and connections.

jasonkarch

well thank you for the reply but i finally took it to a shop turns out it was a fuse blown and it costed me 313 dollars geez is anything cheap these days

Mr_Shiftright

Well electrical problems are sometimes the worst, because you spend $300 in diagnostic time tracing everything down and then $2 in parts once you find the offending item. Hey, it could have been WAY worse, as in your wiring harness burning up. You might have a look as to why/how this happened and perhaps make up some shield or something to prevent a recurrence.

At least the fuse did its job. These days, you burn up an entire wiring harness, you can just about throw the car away.

jasonkarch

well this is true i know what the problem was i shorted out the coolant level sensor and thats what caused it

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe you could slip a rubber hose over it or something?

kathleen9

Mazda Soho - 1.3 litre 1997 model manual 200k
Every time I have to stop the car cuts out. This happens with the clutch pressed in.
Please help.

bison2

94 grand am quad sohc 2.3 ltr auto. 25000 on rebuild engine

this engine will start and run, put it in drive it stalls start again it stalls again.3 rd time it wil keep running. this is intermittent and not with every start, somethimes ok for days. will also stall in neutral at times. smokes black on occasion when fired up.

attemting to fix seslight on dtc 13 previuosly to current prob. replaced ,new 02C x 3 , map censor, OPS, Temp sencor to PCM,new PCM ,TPS, evaporator valve solenoid. coil pack , new AC plugs and boots.Tested fuel pressure and regulator,41 psi when jumped from battery to fuel pump terminal or key on and holding. 36 psi at idle, 40 psi at 2000 rpm, should be 47 psi but new fuel regulator did less psi across the test. tested injectors for leaking[all good] Checked all wiring and grounds.Cleaned out the trottle body and idle valve[ could not test idle valve but apeared working]. battery is good, as is alternator and starter.800 RPM at idle , engine appears to stumble ever so slightly at idle at all times

seslight off, no dtc set since.

What could cause start/stall condition. engine otherwise has lots of power and getgo.

I am at wits end, Simon

fordfan_17

torque converter clutch staying applied

Mr_Shiftright

I think if the engine cuts out only with the clutch pedal in, but not out, then your idle speed is much too low. Clutch IN puts a little drag on the engine. As to why the idle speed is low, you might check for things like a vacuum leak. I'm not sure on that model if the idle speed is adjustable manually.

bison2

Aswer 4408 on post 4407 about start/stall issue, i got "torque converter stays applied" Would that be intermittent or constant? could you clarefy this please

I would think one would have a driveabillity problem with this condition? And that is not the case, shifting up or down and TC lock in or out work smootly while on the road. altough in the past with DTC 13 the car stumbled once in a while like wanting to die and than go again. the transmission however is a little harsh shifting from neutral in either forward or reverse ,but not bad enough to take the pan off and renew the shift solenoids.

Thanks Simon

fordfan_17

ok in your previous post you asked what could cause the stalling condition after you replacing a lot of components on your engine, yet you still have the problem. just replacing solenoids will not always correct the problem sometimes the torque converter clutch fails stuck on (mechanically) not electronicly in this case the torques ability to "slip" when coming to a stop or idling is obstructed because the lock up clutch in the torque is trying to stay on. when it gets to the point where the car stalls every time you put it into gear no matter what the the lock up clutch is welded to the converter housing and no matter what you do the car will stall when its put into gear or comes to a stop. the mechanics of the way a torque works is pretty much like that of a manual clutch except the torque converter uses transmission fluid thru a turbine and a impeller to create force to move the vehicle. when the vehicle slows down the force of the fluid thru the torque is also slowed causing it to "slip" or basically act like you depressed the clutch pedal.todays transmission use a solenoid inside the trans to redirect fluid to a clutch plate inside of the torque. the clutch plate locks against the outer casing of the torque taking away all of the slip factor inside of the torque. if the lock up clutch stays applied when the cars comes to a stop the car will stall.

i hope this answers your question

bison2

thanks for your reply sir.

this start /stall issue only occurs on start up only and only intermittent , one can drive it all day in city traffic and not have any problems, unless it is shutoff like when parking. I did fail to mention that cold start is instant fireup , startup hot sometimes takes longer.

the stall occurs at startup in neutral too, and also when driving away lets say after 50 or 100 feet.it might do that twice in a row, but it never has stalled the moment it is put in gear, or came to a stop with tranny still in gear.

taking the car finally to the dealer has proven costly and never solved the problem.

I am a heavy duty mechanic with 40+ y experience in construction and agri culture, but short of knowledge in the electr technologie in the todays automotive field.

Simon

shengster

2003/honda/accord 4dr
3.0 V6
Auto
68k miles
Problem: (just started yesterday) every time i make a right turn i feel and hear this weird noise coming from the front tire(i think its the left side). the best way i can describe this noise is; tire running against plastic. i think the tire is touching the car every time i make a right turn is that possible?
tire pressure is all ok, break pads looks ok too, and i think every since the noise my alignment is off to the right a little.
and yeah i just got my whole transmission replaced by Honda(2 weeks ago)

thanks for your help.

bolivar

Removing and installing the transmission probably messed up the CV Joint/s in the front drive shaft/s. At 68,000 miles, these may have been about ready to be replaced anyway.

sanjaysdca

1995 Infiniti G20
4 cylinder
Auto 150K miles

Problem:
This has happened only twice..separated by approximately one month

First time: Drove about 4 miles, HOT day, AC full ON
Parked at home depot parking lot
Back to car in 15 min
Car would not start. No sound, No click, Dead silence
All lights, Fan etc works.
Left car overnight. Went next morning car started without any problem

Second Time: Drove for about 15 miles from work to daughters school..Went in to get her
Drove 2 miles to sons day care. Went in to get him
Came back car would not start Same symptoms
Left it overnight
Next morning took 4 to 5 tries before it started

Drove streight to mechanic...cannot reproduce the problem
Been driving short distances since then

So what could be causing this? Any ideas, Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Sanjay

oilcan2

Have a 4.0 sohc in a explorer that needs a reman engine,will do the work myself.
My question is ,the remanufactured engines i am researching buying range anywhere from $2200 to $3200,any out there you can recommend?

bison2

you could have a problem with power supply to the starter[check battery cable and small wire to solenoid]at both ends for tight or corrosion. the starter itself can be the culprit too[solenoid failing or brushes worn].
Or ignitionswitch is going faulty. this one can only be tested when problem is present.
hope this helps

bison2

I posted a Question in post #4412 that did not get answered. the only thing i failed to mention in that post was that the start / stall occurs in park ,NOT in neutral.
I took the car to transmission shop, torque converter clutch is tested and found OK.
the problem was present at that time as well.
Still no seslight or DTC.

Could you please give me additional sugestions.
Thanks Simon

sanjaysdca

thanks for your reply
I have checked the cables they seem to be OK

My mechanic tells me he can help only if he can see the problem..just as you suggested.

I am thinking of replacing the ignition and the starter for peace of mind. I was quoted $225.00 for parts and labor...The starter in G29 is very diffucult to reach...

Once again thanks
Sanjay

bolivar

Wow, if it will not start in Park, but will start in Neutral, sure sounds like a failed Neutral Safety Start Switch. I'm surprised, if you told them, a tranny shop would not check this.

bison2

I never said [will not start in park] you will have to read complete postings to come to a conclusion.

bolivar

Here's what I read, quoted from your entry "the only thing i failed to mention in that post was that the start / stall occurs in park ,NOT in neutral. "

Sure reads to me like the problem occurs in park, but not in neutral.

Which might be a problem with the Neutral Start Safety Switch.

bison2

there are a couple more posts higher up in the collom with the problem on this car, the last one was a correction.