Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
on another note wy not leave the stupid things of if it annoys you that much.
oh,but that does not look cool right
Problem - idles at 1500 park or neutral, idles at 1100 in gear. Check engine light is NOT on, so I guess the computer thinks everything is OK.
How do I correct?
Note - recently, the throttle was sticking so I cleaned the throttle body at the air intake with throttle body cleaner- carb cleaner. I do not believe that the van was idling fast prior to that, but I am not sure since I am not the regular driver of that vehicle. I have double checked and all the hoses and connections that could have been disconnected when I cleaned the throttle and they all seem to be connected, so I have no idea why it is idling fast and am not sure if the throttle cleaning contributed to the idle problem.
Find the IAC sensor and clean it with Carb. Cleaner and then spreay some WD40.
Also, the intake manifold has some hloes where the sensor goes.
Good luck!
Just clean the valve end. Clean the ports into the intake manifold. Be careful taking it off so you can re-use the gasket under it.
The IAC often is a cylindar about the size of a 35mm film container and a little longer, silver on one end and black on the other, with a couple of wires running into it. It is bolted into the intake manifold.
Well in that case you have two options. Some cars have a drain plug in the bottom of the gas tank but if you have a lot of gas you'd better be darn sure your receiving container is large enough--because it's not easy replacing the drain plug while gas is still pouring out. Gasoline up your sleeve and into your armpits is NOT FUN.
Another option is to find the exit hose for the gas tank as it proceeds toward the engine. If this hose is flexible, you can sometimes disconnect it in such a way as to be able to clamp it with a vice grip if you find your container is too small for full drainage.
So get under there have a look and plan a strategy (do your math). And wear rubber gloves and GOGGLES and rubber banks on your sleeves.
Once drained, pour the gas into a proper gas container for re-use.
Why exactly do you have to do this?
4.3 V6 motor
Auto Trans
88K miles....
Not sure how to phrase this question, but I'll do my best.
Not sure how to phrase this question, but I'll do my best.
I am looking to see how or if there is a way to program how my vehicle locks/unlocks the doors when it is placed in drive or park, how the lights flash when I hit the lock button on my fob remote and also how the horn sounds when the lock or unlock button on the fob is hit.
I have figured out how to program new remotes, but I also wonder if there is a way to manage the other settings. I know that on my Impala I just use the radio to set all these settings, but my Astro has the old style (90's style) AM FM head unit. I'm almost postive there is a way to personalize these settings, but I'm not sure how to do it beyond programng the key fobs to work with the vehicle. Anyone out there know how to do this?
When I found the directions to program the fob remotes, I found them listed for an '01 Silverado. I am pretty sure that anything to do with programing the locks and the key fobs for GM vehciles (especially the trucks) in the late late 90's (98 and up) and also the early 00's before they switched out the old Delco head units to the newer RDS units would work. I just can't find them, although I am pretty sure there is a way to manage these settings, I am not positive and it may not be possible, but I at least want to try.
but if you got a 4x4 truck,then yes taking the front drive shaft off is OK, jou just have no frontwheel drive.
1993 Jimmy 4WD-- 4.3L-- Hydra-matic 700R-4 tranny-- New Process 233 transfer case.
I ask the question because I have a grinding sound coming from that area. I don't think it's the tranny but... I'm thinking it's the transfer case but just not sure might be the differential. I've posted the total problem on Edmonds several other places over the last ten months but cannot get a bite.
Anyway, thanks again bison2! I was about to give up on Edmonds. Maybe this is the list I should be posting to.
Jack
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
go to http:// www.dieselplace.com/forum/index.php
far more help to be had there on any thing vehicle related
Quick preface: I am visually impaired and have not driven since 1989. My girlfriend does all the driving. So when she mentioned how cool it was that the oil pressure gauge went from about 27 at idle to about 48 at speed, I was curious. Thinking back to my driving days, I don’t recall such a fluctuation in pressure. Is it acceptable and is it my memory that is the problem?
Thanks
http://answers.edmunds.com/AnswerQuestions.aspx?view=answer
i my case i did not agree with I believe it was your reply on my problem with 94 grand am start/stall symptom, because you did not read the post right, and your diagnosis was based on the wrong assumption.
There after I was ignored completely. Thanks Simon
There ARE however, some experts that roam around the Answers Department, as I mentioned before.
As for the Grand Am problem, you need to determine if it is indeed a transmission problem or an engine problem.
Also, your information is a bit confusing.
You said that it stalled in Park and Neutral, then only park, not neutral.
Does it stall when you start it and it is in park, does it stall when you are in gear and put it in park? Does it stall when you put it in gear from Park?
Which is it?
I stayed away from that one, because the posts were too confusing to try and make a reasonable educated guess.
Describing the symptom made perfect sense to me, but from your side it could be confusing i realize.
i will try again to explain. At startup engine fires right up,10 or 20 sec later it stalls,this is in park.It starts right up again,this time tranny is in neutral,put it in gear and drive away for 30 to 100 yards,then engine stalls again. start up,this time in neutral,but starts in park just as easy,put in gear and drive again for same distance,engine stalls again or might keep going,3 times is the max it will stall.after that it will run all day with no trouble,until shutdown for lets say 10 min or more,then same problem again, but not always. It will never die coming to a stop at any time,i did not try to shift back and forth between drive and park or neutral to make it stall,It did not cross my mind to do that.
what ever could be checked is checked out, i start to believe it must be fuel related. The whole fuel system including injectors is tested good,other then that the LP has a tendency to leak back after shut down,not always at the same rate.but will go down to 0 psi.I dont know if this is normal. dealer does not seem to know either, only wanna sell me new car."yea right".
If air is coming in from somewhere into the fuelrail i like to know where from.there is always fuel present at the test port i installed at the highest point on the supply line just above the engine.
In former post i wrote down all new parts installed and fuel pressures observed.
but good communication also means asking to fill in the blanks if it is not quite clear what is ment by what.
Again sorry Simon
Transmission has been serviced and there is no transmission fault codes (Check engine light on and you have had it scanned?)?
Next, there is a square, blue, green or brown connector looking straight down on the transmission, just above the trans pan, close to where the bell housing mates with the engine. Unplug it and test drive. Do you still have the symptoms?
No, then the TCC solenoid is bad.
Yes, then you need to start on the engine diagnostics.
Have you had it scanned? If so, what fault codes were there?
Let's try that and go from there.
There are no mill or DTC's at present.I use a OBD 1&2 scanner.Car is still OBD 1
i will get back after tcc check .
Tonight I disconnected TCC to rule out torque converter trouble and found. Start /stall problem is still present after disconnect.
I scanned for DTC's, none found
symptom now consist out of harder start cold or warm, must be sitting for 30 min to display hard start again. when restart within 20 min start is immidiate.
if engine treatens to stall,it will do so after about 20-30 sec.if caught on time playing with the trottle pedal will keep it running half the time and no further stalling till next start after shutdown. If the engine did stall,it will fire up right away again and be good from then on. So it did not matter if the car was in park,neutral or gear ,it would stall within the 30 sec mark anyway.
i also tested the fuel pressure again .engine off key on 42 psi,at idle 35 psi and steady.with engine off pressure wil hold at 35 psi for 15 min before slowly draining of. With supply hose pinched pressure will hold period.
at startup there is also a strong smell of gas,that leads me to believe NO spark or ??till it finally fires.
PCM,TPS,MAP,CTS,Sparkplugs,Coils and boots,evap solenoid,OS and OPS have all been replaced about a month ago. CAT and resonator are gone too[ straigt pipe now ]
what do i do next?
Oh wait. Certified. Yeah, I got those.
If one or more injectors is leaking, I would think the fuel pressure would start to drop immedately after shutdown, no matter if supply is 'pinched off' or not. (How do you pinch off hose? All late model hoses I've seen are now hard plastic.) If a cylinders fill up with fuel from a leaky injector, hard starting occurs.
Fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Here is how you test on a Cadillac. On a Cadillac the FPR if the first thing on the fuel rail. It regulates the pressure passed to the injectors. It also has a vacumn hose on it. Start the car. Pull the vacumn hose off. If ANY fuel leaks out of the connector where the vacumn hose goes, replace the FPR.
If it leaks, the vacumn line fills up with fuel on shutdown, then it is pulled into intake when you try to restart the car, giving an overly rich condition and hard starting. If you shut down and then quickly restart, if starts ok because it has not had time to get excessive fuel in the line.
Neither of the above seems to exactly match what you are seeing, but are something the think about. The check on the FPR leaks is very easy to do on a Caddy, not sure about your vehicle.
Don't know how to check an injector, you probably have to pull them one at a time, turn key on to pressurize the line, and see if it leaks.
Only thing that leaks is the LP checkvalve. Sofar I have not been able to find out if the Fuel system is always to hold pressure after shutdown like overnight or not.
Factory manual says Fuel press is to be 47 psi, i only get 41. new FPR gets only 38. you go figure
I've read some real horror stories about tranny rebuilding so I saw my mileage was still as much as 24 for hwy driving as a 3 speed, and have not decided to do it for now. Car is probably worth $1000 as is and maybe $1300 if I sunk the $1600 for tranny rebuild into it (paint issues).
Is there any significant harm to the car to keep driving it as a 3 speed and running 400-500 rpm higher. It is a supercharged 3800 in a '96 Riv with TC and ABS. I plan to do oil changes at 4000 miles where I used to go 7000. Anything elso I should watch out for? I like the car fine as is and could only save 57 cents a day if it got 27 mpg.
On the other hand, if the transmission problem is a mechanical one where there is a broken part, then you risk complete breakdown of the gearing if the broken part dislodges or moves around and ruins other gears.
I had a transmission problem couple years ago, where I lost 2nd and Reverse. Drove it less than a mile after that, and then had it towed for repair. When it was taken apart, one of the small pieces of broken drum had moved back and gotten into two other gears, ruining those as well. So I had one original failed part, and then two others caused by the first. (I was at the garage and looked at all the parts). These three parts, and all the labor, cost me (IIRC) about 1600 bucks.
I could easily understand if there was additional gear damage, that it wouldn't pay to do the repair and you either junk the car or pay to have a reclaimed transmission put in it. On the other hand, you may find that a repair now enables your vehicle to last another couple years. You have successfully run 10 months without additional problems, however. Each situation will be different.
Good luck.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
My guess is the calipers need to be replaced with nice rebuilt ones. I got rebuilt from Advance Auto for $30 ea.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1) Does anyone know where I can get an ashtray from the front dash of a 98 P.A.? I bought one yers ago and it's broken again (the latch has snapped off. color is unimportant as I can rebuild it but cost is important and I'm looking for a used one from a wrecking yard. Thanks.
2) My windows are giving me some trouble. The back left one will not roll down all the time. Once in a while it works, then it stops working for months. Luckily it is always in the up position when it stops functioning.
Also, my passenger side front window rolls dosn fine some times but then it won't roll down all the way when the weather is rainy. It stops about 3/4" fromt he top and will go back up but seems stuck or jammed up somehow.
3) My driver's side door latch broke inside somewhere. It just went "Click" and it seems that the mechanism has failed inside the door since the handle flips up easily but doesn't engage the latch.
Thanks for help with any of these three items.
The ones I got from Advanced already had silicon looking lube heavy on the bolts where they fit into the rubber sleeves.
If you look at your old calipers before you return them, they may be like mine. The bolts are a little cruddy after years and miles. They can be bought separately and replaced. The rubber sleeves they go into are older and rougher. AND the interior of the ears on the calipers into which the rubber sleeves go are rusted on the inside diameter.
That rust compresses the volume for the rubber sleeves and the bolts inside of them. This makes it hard for the bolts to slide inside. That rust needs to be removed using something like a brake hone to get the interior of the sleeves back to the right internal diameter. Otherwise the old bolts and older rubber sleeves aren't going to move nicely.
By the time I would buy parts and do the work, I've got more than $30 of my time, aggravation and dirt. To me replacing the calipers every 80 k miles at second brake change helps.
New calipers should be smooth to give a hard push and have them move in or out a little. Plus the pistons and seals and boots in them are new. I'll bet the old calipers weren't moveable by hand and that was making them drag. The drag heats rotors. Then when you put on brake the rotors are heating and warping or the pads are heated. I hope the rotors are okay now that you have new calipers.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,