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The bolts seem to be extremly tight although the torque spec for the new bolts is only 47 ft-lbs. I would guess that it is taking 125+ ft-lbs to break them loose. One of the bolts actually broke when I loosened it and one of the bolts was already broken when I got to it. The shop manuals say these bolts should be replaced, not reused, when you change the head gaskets. I believe they are 12mm bolts.
I have the hayes shop manual and got alldata's online shop manual too and they both have the same torque spec. I think hayes says they should be lubricated while alldata's said dry.
So, my questions is, does 47 ft-lbs sound like the right torque spec and if so why were the bolts so tight when I removed the old ones?
Thanks
generally takes more force to loosen a bolt that has been tight for a long time than was required to tighten it.
most head bolts are torque to yield these days and stretch a bit ,so they recommend using new bolts once removed,maybe yours where reused.
bolt torque is lower if you have a aluminum head and/or block,than on steel components.
And yes, brand new bolts all around, please.
Article No.
99-15-7
07/26/99
^ BODY BOOM - SPEEDS OVER 72 KM/H (45 MPH) -
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
^ SHIMMY - SPEEDS OVER 72 KM/H (45 MPH) -
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
^ VIBRATION - SPEEDS OVER 72 KM/H (45 MPH) -
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
FORD:
1997-1999 EXPEDITION
LINCOLN:
1998-1999 NAVIGATOR
ISSUE
A vibration at speeds above 72 km/h (45 mph) may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by an imbalance in one or more of the driveline components resulting in a resonance that produces a vibration in the seat or steering column.
ACTION
Refer to the following Drive Diagnostic Procedure and System Balancing Procedure. Follow the initial drive diagnostic and note any changes after each drive.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
XL1Z-4602-AB Driveshaft
XL1Z-4802-AA Driveshaft
F85Z-5E269-EA Exhaust Pipe Bracket
XL1Z-4602-BA Driveshaft
F85Z-4B473-AA Damper Assembly
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 98-18-7, 98-5-2, 99-1-1
Questions: 1. If I buy/rent a pump pressure gage, where do I hook it up?
2. Is there a way to siphon the fuel? I've tried, but cannot get even a small line all the way down to the tank.
Will appreciate any comments.
Thanks.
If you drop the take, I'd probably put in a new fuel pump and fuel filter since you are in there. The old one might be all gummed up with "varnished" gasoline.
I have a cuestion, my MC told me, must change 3 motor mounts Front, left and rigth, can enyone tell me, if those three motor mounts are the same or they have differences? i check some parts dealers, and aparently are the same. but please, help me whit this. tanx.
Cooling system does'nt build pressure at all.What could cause this ????
Temp gauge goes up on occasion to 240 f ,always ran at 160/180.But now it fluctuates between 150 and 200 f.
the recovery tank has a 15 psi cap. System pressure tests OK,holds 15 psi steady for hours.with cap in place.I took the psi reading tee'd in small rad return hose.Temp is verified and gauge is reading accurate.The fan works fine
The waterpump was recently replaced,[had leaking seal]But not by myself.It has less than 1000 km on it, thermostat was tested at same time and found good.
The heating Problem started on trip from Edmonton to peace river, Driver had to add 1 ltr of antfreeze before trip and system was 1 ltr low upon arrival.
The temp fluctuations could be caused by sticking T stat, but what about the no pressure build?
manual trans
110,000 mi
ignition switch control arm
can it be replaced and how hard is it
No anti freeze in the oil either.
If compression would leak trough faulty head gasket then the cooling system pressure would build rapidly i would think.And yet there is never any pressure,even after 100 km trip.
- it's leaking out on to the ground, which you haven't seen any.
- you could have a heater core leak, leaking onto your floor in the passenger compartment
- you have a pin hole leak in your radiator, and it's leaking and evaporating before you see a leak.
- it could be leaking into the engine, either into the oil, or maybe being sucked into the intake and being expelled out the exhaust pipe (while at the same time contaminating and ruining your cat converter).
Perhaps your problem only occurs when the block is hot, and when the engine cools down and you do a pressure test it's fine?
Any white smoke out your exhaust? or wet passenger carpet?
Press holds steady same as before,engine cold or hot.
NO leaks no where , Not internal or external,I opened the oil drain plug after overnight stand to check for coolant in the oil before even posting.There was not a single drop.
I had checked for a leaking heater core as well.
There is no white smoke or sweet smell from the tail pipe either.
If a rad pinhole exist that is so small that one cant find it, then it might leak a minimal amount of coolant but it won't be the cause of no pressure building in the system. I have extensive mechanical abillities and know how to do these things.
Went for 80 km drive,no fluid loss observed.
Temp held fairly steady at around 160-F with pressure APLIED by press tester wich was left hooked up in between radiator to recovery tank return hose.The 15 psi rad cap is on the recovery tank. Pressure held steady the entire trip.
After relieving system pressure and leaving the tester in place and letting the engine to build the pressure up, I took a second trip, I found on return that there still was not a single pound of press in the cooling system.The temp was slightly higher at 170/180-F though.
You have regular coolant liquid in there, right?......not some sort of new non-expanding liquid?
regular green coolant used,nothing exotic.
Doughter drove car back to Edmonton today[500 km]. temp steady at 170-F all the way, no issues at all, no coolant loss either, but still NO pressure at all.
You go figure.
i now come to blame the coolant loss on the erratic working T stat, as there was some evidence of boil over or spill at the rad cap, wich may have been cross treaded on by my doughter after topping of the coolant level the day after the water pump was replaced. said cap was somewhat hard to remove, and may not have seated correctly.
When I got home I check my parking space there were no oil spots on it. I'm going to go to a different place for the repairs, but is there a way to tell if they punched a whole in the engine mouint while they were road testing my car?
6 cyl, auto, shift on the fly 4x4 (Does NOT have Torque on Demand system)
PROBLEM: Front axle will not engage (will not go into four wheel drive) when the dash button is pressed. At idle I can hear a "cla-chunk" when I press the dash 4x4 switch, so there is 'something' trying to engage the front axle, but the dash 4x4 indicator light just blinks and the axle will not lock up. SOMETIMES the front axle will engage if I press the dash switch BEFORE I start the engine, then for dash indicator light stays on and the front axle locks up and runs fine in four wheel drive. SO, this tells me the mechanism in the front axle is FINE, it's the engagement system that is out of whack. It has a vacuum system to lock the front axle up...anyone have any experience with this goofy system?
Wes
Doesn't use much fuel when idling, but as you are revving it up it would need more fuel delivery from the fuel pump/filter.
But your problem could be many things, you should take it somewhere to have them diagnose it properly.
I have read that Toyota engines are non-interference (unlike Honda).
-ss4
it wont go forward or reverse. code checker says 1810...
ATF pressure manual valve position switch malfunction.
can I fix this from under the car or does the tranny have to be taken apart?
thanks
I can't get the rotor off. I don't think they were ever replaced before, and there is 270K miles on it. What are the chances it's rusted on? Will PB blaster help in the process? How hard can I bang on the back of the rotor with a hammer, if I use a Hammer/block of wood, or a rubber mallet?
Thanks for your help.
If there are not separate bolts that hold the rotor on, the lug nuts hold both the wheel and rotor, here is an old shade tree mechanic trick that you might try.
Put the thing back together. But leave all the lug nuts loose. I don't know how loose, maybe about one turn from being tight. Then just move the car back and forth a short distance. Maybe turning the wheel back and forth. This might break the rotor loose.
Don't blame me if this strips nuts or shears them totally off. This is just a 'trick' I've read about, never actually done.
DTC PARAMETERS
DTC P1810 will set if:
* The gear position indicated by the TFP switch assembly is illegal for 60 seconds .
* Engine running.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
A pressure regulator problem could set DTC P1810. Inspect the wiring at the TCM, the transmission connector and the TFP Val. Position Sw. connector, and all other circuit connecting points for the following conditions:
* A bent terminal
* A backed out terminal
* A damaged terminal
* Poor terminal tension
* A chafed wire
* A broken wire inside the insulation
* Moisture intrusion
* Corrosion
When diagnosing for an intermittent short or open condition, massage the wiring harness while watching the test equipment for a change.
Keys wear out, locks wear out too. You might have to remove the cover and see if something got loose or fallen out in the mechanism.
If you lived in a very large metro area the public libraries *might* have the Hollander Exchange manual, which is what most salvage yards use---sometimes you see them on eBay.
Or you can contact a club dedicated to the car you are working on. Usually you can google for specific clubs.
When doing engine swaps into other years of the same car, it's always best to talk to someone who has done it before you. Being a pioneer or "first timer" is generally not as much fun as it sounds, unless you are very adept technically and have a generous budget.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then disconnect the positive cable.
3. Move the auto-tensioner (from your right to your left) to relieve tension from the alternator belt, and remove the alternator belt.
4. Disconnect the condenser fan motor connector from the condenser fan shroud.
5. Remove the condenser fan/shroud assembly
Disconnect the 4P connector and BLK wire from the alternator.
7. Remove the mount bolt (10mm) and alternator bracket mounting bolt (8mm), then remove the harness clamp (6mm) from the alternator bracket.
8. Install in the reverse order of removal.
9. Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the customer's radio station presets.