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Would I get it fixed? Well, depends. If the dealership will fix it and it won't affect your title in any way, then yes. If, however, it will affect your title, I would rather have the 8 lit up and just explain the situation at trade/sell time. Nobody would believe the suzuki went over 800k miles, so your story is completely reasonable.
HOWEVER, then again, I guess if it stays on "8" even after crossing 100k, hmmmm... Boy. That's a tough one.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks again for the quick responses!
Thank You,
MNWILD
...or...tell one of the neighborhood kids you left your GPS in there. It will be open in the morning.
Or, was it on recently?
If you have/recently had a 'check engine' error, it will not pass inspection until you repair the problem.
Otherwise, you haven't given much info for anyone to give any help.
Did the inspection station give you any specific information about why you failed inspection?
Get the car to a mechanic, to find out why the engine is stalling and fix it. Could be a thousand things, and impossible to diagnose over the internet with the limited information you provide.
But how can this be in that there is no real impediment to expansion of the liquid as it freezes. The cap is not tight enough to contain the expanding liquid.
Problem: Just recently the passenger side dual climate control ceased functioning - no lights, no air passing thru vents. The driver's side works perfectly. I pulled all the fuses that said climate control and replace them although the originals looked fine. That didn't fix the problem. Any suggestions other than taking to the deal, (who has taken "rip off" to new levels.
The manual says the fluid should be drained and refilled, then the car should be driven for a short distance. This process should be repeated 3 times, then drain and refill a fourth and final time. This seems ridiculous. Why would you not just replace with new fluid every 6,000 miles instead of wasting 9 quarts of new fluid each 25,000 miles?
I checked with the Honda Dealer Technician and was told no, they just drain and refill.
Which procedure are you using?
If they truly want to replace most of the fluid in a CVT tranny, I would have thought Honda would have designed a drain plug into it. Or required to drop the pan to make this service.
My Honda Ridgeline's rear full-time rear drive differential has a fill and drain plug and it needs service at about 20,000 and then every 35,000 miles.
"To thoroughly flush the transmission, the technician should drain and refill it with Honda CVT fluid, then drive the vehicle for a short distance. Do this three times. Then drain and refill the transmission a final time."
Just after that, the manual says:
"The transmission should be drained and refilled with new fluid when this service is indicated by a maintenance message in the information display."
The maintenance minder says:
"Replace transmission fluid."
I am going to take that to mean the drain and fill (once) instruction.
There is no "Thoroughly Flush" instruction on the maintenance minder.
Thank you for your reply.
I'm not sure what it is saying. But, if there is nothing just previous to these instructions (about flushing out fluid when a substitute was used), I sure might read it to mean that when the maintenance light and reminder is displayed, it needs the 4 drain and refills.
I think I would try to have a nice talk with a service manager or tech and see if the big shop manual gives a better description of what is needed here. And look at the time the labor rates says is needed for this. If it is less than 1 hour, I think it is a drain and refill. If 2 hours or more, I think it's a 4 time drain, fill, and drive procedure.
I can tell you a few things
A bad turbo can't cause overheating but can cause blue smoke
White smoke is a sign of bad head gasket, that's true.
SOOOOOO, if I were in your shoes, first thing I'd do is have the car tested for a bad head gasket. Any shop who says "they aren't sure"------take your car out of there immediately and go somewhere where they are sure of what they are doing.
Regarding the turbo, that could be inspected during the head gasket change.
And now the question on everyone's lips---is a 2000 Saab SE worth fixing?
I'd say for a head gasket yes....for a head gasket AND a turbo---that's getting iffy. The car does not have a lot of value---maybe $5K if it's really nice?
Whatever you do, don't give a shop a 'blank check' on this car. Ask for tests, then evaluate, get estimates, etc.
If you don't get straight answers, try another shop.
Overheating and oil light represents two different problems. The additional coolant should've helped the overheating though might be a tad late. The oil light indicates low oil pressure aka low oil level which could also be cause by the introduction of coolant into the oil. Having both overheating and oil light I would think would indicate a "no drive" scenario. Meaning don't drive the car.
From reading what you've posted it seems the head gasket is a guarantee while the motor replacement is not and neither is the turbo. Course you also need to address why the coolant was low if it wasn't draining into the engine via the failed head gasket.
I'd try and get a local mechanic to take a look at the car. Steer clear of the dealerships unless there are no other options. Try asking friends and relatives for references.
I don't know why people keep driving cars when they are overheating or if there's been an oil light on---this just makes it all worse. I realize they want to get home and all that but there's a reason that light is RED.
Leaks I'd like to fix to keep the driveway from getting stained up:
'96 Riviera with 171,000 miles. I used a 1/2 bottle oil leak stop and after 200 miles still have some tiny leaks. They have been diminished by about 80%. Should I have used a full bottle? Same car has had a trans fluid leak in flex hose to radiator since I got the car. It is leaking where the metal line from engine is crimped to rubber part just behind radiator. I am leery of using additive because I just read that they soften rubber seals but then problem comes back worse later. Trans has no other leaks. I was wondering if I could tighten a band clamp over the aluminum outer shell at hose crimp and stop the leak.
'99 Sonoma with 106,000 miles. Had 1 and got 3 new leaks over winter. Had a PS line leak at a crimp when I bought it. I put in PS fluid with leak stop last week. Will it work? I only was able to add about 5 ounces of the qt bottle. Unbolting the line seemed like a lot of work to be able to add more.
The two front shocks, now 10 yrs old, started leaking the same day, about the first warm day of spring. Do they stop leaking after a while, and is there any risk to not changing them once they leaked?
Had oil leak from drain plug rubber washer being 10 yrs old. Put a new one in and that leak was cured for $1.25.
Now for worst leak. On last really cold day of winter, I got to work and coolant was leaking from front and back of engine. I can't tell where from on the 4.3 V6. Took off air intake lines for better look and nothing visable. freeze plugs are good. It is coming from above spark plug height. More in back than front. Not from any hoses. Leak is pretty big. I was going to try prestone stop leak but the leak is pretty big. Oil is clean (normal) and truck starts and runs great. If I try prestone and it doesn't work, can I use the Bars leak stop with the black pellets? Research shows an intake manifold weakness in these late 90's 4.3s. Any way to find leak?
1998 Astro with 115,000 miles. It was in garage all winter but this is first year in new house without heated garage, so it went below 32 on those 8 degree nights. I used the other half of the oil leak stop and I drove about 160 miles so far and no leak yet. It was at a metal line to rubber flex line joint in the oil cooler line to the radiator. That makes 3 flex line crimp leaks in 3 vehicles for 3 different fluids. This one is oil. This Astro also got a coolant leak about the same time as the Sonoma and same engine and leak from trans/engine interface as well (drips off starter motor mount bolt). I put most of a bottle of prestone stop leak in and it sealed it up. For now the Astro is dry underneath. Is there any harm to the oil leak stop I put in? Will I have to use it every oil change? The Astro is due for an oil change in about 1000 miles. I use QS 5w-30.
Those coolant leaks in the V6's near the back of the engine could very well be intake manifold gasket problems, but then again it could be something much less severe.
Sounds like it's time to get out the tools, or the checkbook, (or both I guess) which ever applies.
Stop leak can only do so much.
Also oil stop leak will not work on any seal that surrounds a spinning shaft of some type.
If the $800 includes the oil pan gasket then yeah that might be fair enough, as that is $10 parts and .8 hour labor, so where I live that's about another $100.
Not sure what this "flush" business is all about.
P.S He just changed the fluid 6 months ago,about 6,000-8,000 miles if that helps
Unless you drop the pan, and scan & pressure test the system, you really don't know that much.
About the only "sensory" input I pay attention to is if I pull the dipstick and get a very heavy burning smell that actually makes you pull back your nose, it is so pungent.
And why did your friend feel it needed trans fluid change again after only 8k miles?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Because he is trying to decide between to buy-out the lease on the '05 Accord or buy a Pontiac G-8. The buy out on the Accord is $16,000 taxes in up here in Toronto,Canada. The decision has to be made today!!
I know that it is not like the old days! Every mechanic that he has spoken to has said "Honda's are well known for transmission problems" it is just a matter of time before it acts up.
P oor
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N orwegian
T hinks
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C adillac
Excuse me, but clearly he has only spoken to idiot-mechanics! As far as I know, there are no chronic problems associated with Honda manual transmissions.
Come on! Let's hear it for manuals!
Cheaper to buy, cheaper to own, and more fun to drive! Why the heck would anyone buy an automatic??? :P
He should trade in that car ASAP for something with a stick-shift.
Because he drives the hills in Seattle and San Francisco & frequently stops at traffic signals facing uphill.
In any case, I'm still confused as to why a fluid change at 8k miles was required to figure out if he wants the vehicle. He must have been having problems, no? I mean, why else suspect anything?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Honda Accords, V6's, had problems with, I think, certain numbers, not all of the year, automatic trannys in about 2001 and then again 2005. Completely different problems. And their vans had a problem with part of a year or so in the early 2000's. I had an Accord so I kept up with it closer than the van. Honda stepped up and fixed any of these problem, and I think extended the warranty to about 100,000 miles on these problem series of cars.
Since Hondas are in general such reliable autos, many people have made a big deal about what is actually a relatively small amount of transmission problems.
My 2002 Honda Accord V6 only went back one time in the 5 years or so I owned it. It would occasionally would lock itself while sitting in my garage. Some research found this was a known problem with this year, in the Accord and some other models, I told the service writer there probably could find a TSB on it, which he did. They replaced an electronic module in the door panel for the lock and it was fixed.
(The problem in 2005 was very strange. If you ran the car at a constant high speed, 70mph or so, in the top gear, up a slight grade, for an extended distance, one of the gears in the tranny was not getting fluid on it for lubrication and would overheat. And cause a whine. Honda sent the dealers a digital camera, with instructions to take pictures of the gear thru the fluid fill plug hole, had sample picture examples with the camera for the tech to compare with the pictures that were taken, and based on if the gear was burned, Honda would switch the tranny out. For the series of cars with this potential problem, Honda issued a recall, where they did a jury rig of putting a tap and line out of some plug or something on the tranny and fed the line into a modified fill plug that would bring additional tranny fluid to the gear for lubrication. Sounded strange, but this was their workaround. Of course, they did some kind of internal redesign to truly fix the future trannys after the problem was found. Anyone ever see one of these thing in external rigs in place on an Accord?)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Your friend got scammed.