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If there's not too much diesel, I might suggest just fillling up the tank and running it all through and let the car run like crap for a while, but I'm concerned about damage to the catalytic converter because I don't really know how much diesel is in there. If it were one gallon fine, but it sounds like you can get a lot of diesel into a tank in "a few minutes" of pumping.
I'm surprised she didn't notice the green handle, very thin nozzle, the funny smell or the high price?
Well she won't be doing THAT again.
Before you drain anything, find out where you go to dispose of it. Don't start this job in a bad mood.
1) it has a 1.3 ltr engine and i'll be darned if i can find the fuel rail. it's supposed to have efi, but i can only find a carb. this can't be right, can it?
2) the car is from florida and the top of the dash is very faded. how to fix?
The Throttle Body Fuel Injection (TBI) unit consists of the main bore, air and/or fuel passage, vacuum passage (for Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] sensor, Evaporative Emission [EVAP] control system and Exhaust Gas Recirculation [EGR] system), air induction passage and the following parts.
* Fuel injector which injects fuel according to the signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
* Fuel pressure regulator which maintains the fuel pressure to the fuel injector a certain amount higher than the pressure in the intake manifold.
* Throttle valve which is interlocked with the accelerator pedal and controls the amount of air/fuel mixture drawn into the combustion chamber.
* Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor which controls minimum throttle valve position (opening) to adjust engine idle speed.
* Throttle Position (TP) sensor which detects the throttle valve opening and sends a signal to the PCM.
Question #2
Pad cover or junkyard replacement. Some say you can paint 'em but that's nasty work and I don't think it ever looks very good.
The car was not starting so I changed the starter and it started twice. While the car was running, I checked the spark plug wires one after another from the first to the third and
97 Nissan Altima
4 Cylinder
Transmission type: manual
226K miles
Crankshaft Positioning Sensor:
COMPONENT INSPECTION
1. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (OBD) harness connector.
2. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
3. Remove the sensor.
4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.
5. Check resistance. Resistance: Approximately 432 - 528 ohms at 25°C (77°F)
If ohms are good and it isn't cracked or damaged, it's probably okay.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
i have been on other sites (neon.org and mirage performance-i have/had these types of cars) and they have pics of the final results of painting and they look pretty good. don't know if i could do that well or how long the paint would last though.
i have been looking through the local jy's around here and have had a very hard time finding things i need. '96 metro's are hard to find. a dashboard will be almost out of the question. pad cover? tell me you don't mean contact paper...lol
You might try www.eautorepair.net, don't know if they have your make/model/yr or not.
It functions like a carb in that the fuel is eventually there with the air needed, but the fuel delivery is much more precise than with a fuel line/float system.
TBI was developed for emissions reasons, mostly I think to avoid an overly rich cold start situation and of course to improve MPG
Dash Cover -- no I mean those little "mouse fur" things you buy to cover the top of the dash.
The Metro is an "orphan" so if I were you I'd snag a parts car, strip it of everything and then junk the carcass.
Verify first that none of the door switches control any of the windows.
Would normally suspect the fuse, so verify in your owners manual exactly which fuse controls the door windows. Verify with a voltmeter that the fuse is supplying voltage to the circuit.
Next logical point is the drivers switch, so depending on your vehicle you either need to take the switch out or possibly take off the door panel to get to the wiring of the switch. Verify with a voltmeter that you have main power to the switch, and if so, then power to the window motor when the switch is depressed.
how do i tell? i am used to some noise from what i assume is the rear axle at certain speeds.
Usually bad wheel bearings put up a hell of a racket, a low rumble/growl that of course decreases and increases as you let up or give gas. The sound will not change from "pull" to "float" as it does with bad differential gears.
I'd certainly get a second opinion. Maybe it's in the differential or maybe it's just tire noise. A good trained ear will pick up a wheel bearing noise and discern it from other similar noises.
a bad bearing would be more a roaring noise than a whine.
i did them them i thought it was tire noise. same thing they told me when i first mentioned what turned out to be the rear diff noise years earlier. :surprise:
This schemetic shows only one fan. It is controlled by one relay. The relay is found 'Right Hand side of Engine Compartment behind right hand composite headlight'.
This one relay is controlled totally by the Engine Control Module (ECM). This is one of the main computer boxes. Nothing else turns the fan, via the relay, on or off.
There are several circuits that feed the ECM to help control the fan/relay. AC pressure switch, throttle position sensor (no real use, just uses a common ground inside the ECM???), speed sensor. I assume the ECM uses these in various ways to control the fan.
And, of course, the Engine Coolant Temp sensor feeds into the ECM. The Temp sensor is found 'Left Hand side of the engine, forward of the distributor'.
If you have powered up the fan and it runs, there could be a problem with the relay, the temp sensor, wiring, or the ECM itself.
On the 3.8L engine, there are two fans (a puller and a pusher), with a relay for each one. But both these relays are controlled the same way, the except via the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) not a ECM, turns them on or off, with about the same inputs into the PCM.
If this is the same vehicle with the wet start problem, you might have wiring or ECM or PCM problems. I would try to find these control modules, which for this van are 'below right hand side of the instrument panel', and check if the plugs are firmly in place.
I'm not going into ECM or PCM diagnotistics. I would think you might need a TECH 2 test computer to test these things.
Is the check engine light lit? If so, you need to 'pull the code' and see if these tell you anything.
Does it crank but not run?
Does it just turn on inside indicators but you get nothing when you turn to START?
Does it doesn't not turn the motor over while cranking, does it dim the headlights when you turn the key to START?
Not being familiar with that car or motor but familiar with H-bodies with 3800's, I'd suggest checking the battery connections. Turn off the automatic air conditioning first with the key ON. Then take off the negative cable and then the positive cable.
If you have a double positive cable check very carefully between the two separate cables for corrosion. Clean everything so it's bright metal. Pull back the plastic on the ends to check for corrosion. A few cases of battery acid wicking down into the cable have had problems.
Then check the connectors on the spark control--whatever it's properly called on your car. The 3800s have a set of three coils and under them is a box which controls the coils. Bad connections on the connectors there will act up sometimes giving no starts because of no spark.
Because your symptom included usually having a start after 5 minutes suggests corrosion to me. Trying to start draws some current through the corroded area. It won't work then, but the warmth affects the connection through the corrosion and a few minutes later the conductivity has changed allowing it to work.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Here's one on Ebay... FActory service manual
Search for Regal 1994 service manual--then add the word factory if you get too many hits. The news ones are available from Helminc.com probably for about $100.
Also, many library systems allow access to ALLDATA. Ours does. BUT I have to go to a branch and use the computer there. I assume you can go, access, and print out pages that show the circuit diagrams... and take them home.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I am not sure how different the ECM is from PCM, but I have read of a higher number of PCMs going bad in 1994 and 1995 H-bodies. I wonder if the ECMs have a failure rate also. Usually the problem for PCMs is that the motor runs poorly and erratically.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
That the fan kicks on is a good sign. But I would drive with the AC on to keep the fans running. Going that hot may lead to other problems from the high heat.
It does point to a sensor being out-of-calibration... But which of the three sensors is really the coolant temperature sensor for the ECM?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I still think your have a connection problem there.
I just thought of another possibility. Does it have a security chip in the key? Does it have a security light on the dashboard that comes on when you turn the key to ON? And if it doesn't read the right chipr esistance it blinks the security light for 3 minutes before you can try again?
If so, clean the contacts on the resistor chip. Insert the key after dipping in alcohol to get alcohol on the contacts inside the opening of the lock cylinder to try to clean them. Insert key slowly and see if the security light goes out of starts blinking. YOu might have a VATS system acting up. The contacts can be dirty or the two little wires that go down to the connector at the base of the column can break where they are flexed at the tilt wheel bending point.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Turn the engine off, the engine cools down. As the engine and radiator cool down, the radiator sucks fluid from the expansion tank, keeping it 'topped off'.
If you suspect a bad water pump, what you should be looking for is the fluid flowing in your radiator, once the engine warms up and the thermostat opens. If you see no fluid moving, then either your water pump is bad and not pumping, or the thermostat is defective and not opening (allowing the coolant to circulate).
If your head gasket is bad, the cylinders would be pumping exhaust air into the coolant, thereby creating too much pressure and air, causing your cap to expel the overage into the coolant overflow tank. The exhaust air in the overflow would obviously rise to the surface and expel itself, leaving the coolant amount intact.
BUT FIRST, verify with an external oil pressure guage exactly what your pressure is....I would not trust the internal car gauge on something like this.
The only thing it does is move about $60 from your wallet to their wallet.
I also think it sounds like a bad head gasket. The car might not even be going into 'normal' condition before it overheats. The computer might not be expecting to see these temps this quick, so it doesn't turn the fans on.
15 pounds at idle is good. Most oil 'lights' don't come on until it hits 5 pounds or less.
40 pounds at speed is good. I've got a 9,000 mile car that runs about 43pounds at 1500rpm.
You may be worrying about nothing. If this car has quite a few miles on it (100,000+), it might be normat for it to need 1500rpm to build to 'normal', and I think 40pounds at >1500rpm is probably normal or close to it.
I might be wrong, but I don't think 15 to 40 pounds of oil pressure in a modern motor is going to cause any damage, outside of normal wear.
Dan
.
40 psi when cold
15 psi idle
approaches or eaches 40 psi over 1500 rpm when hot?
Do I have that right?
If I do, you don't have a problem Forget about it.
I'm with bolivar on this one, although kiawah is quite correct, all readings should be verified with an adequate oil pressure gauge, especially if your gauge appears erratic in any way.
As if all the brilliant engineers in all the world's car companies, spending hundreds of millions of dollars to squeeze even 1 more mpg out of their cars, can't do it, but Jake in Cleveland figured it out in his garage, and in multiples of 10.
Yeah, right.
I'm surprised the oil companies haven't had Jake killed yet. This is usually the story that circulates after he is put out of business by the FTC.
Son has a 2001 Sonata GLS V6.....started briefly, then died on him. Would not turn over.....hoping it was something to do with the battery, called AAA...the guy just listened to it and stated he thought it sounded like the timing belt might have gone on it.
Question is....is he looking at possible concerns with an interference engine (hoping not) on this model and year?? (by the way, he was told quite some time ago timing belt was going to need to be changed...hence, quite possibly an expensive lesson learned!!) Thanks....
Combustion Leak Test
It's under warranty. Keep taking it back until they fix it correctly.