Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I never heard that before, if it was not a chain, maybe due to age or drying out of compound belt, but metal, no way, it is tied directly to wear, not age, and it should last a heck of a lot longer than 20K. Sounds like dealer is looking to keep shop busy with warranty work, but I wonder how he will justify it to Huyndai. I wouldn't want it changed if I was you.
I think whoever told you this is just trying to make money on you.
Look in your owner's manual. It will give service intervals for all things. If you have a timing BELT, it should indicate when it should be changed. If you have a timing CHAIN, it probably will show nothing, and the chain should last the life of the car without being changed.
Even if the service for a timing BELT is 5 or 7 years, if the milage on your car is extremely low, such as the 20,000 miles you are talking about, I personally would NOT change a belt at even 7 years with 35,000 miles or so. At 10 years, no matter what milage, you might consider changing a belt.
you should still be covered under warranty if there is something wrong with the engine.
if you sevice the airfilter on time,you should not have to worry about cleaning the TB for years.
WARNING: IF THE THROTTLE VALVE IS OPERATION IN SERVICE, A FINGER MIGHT BE INJURED AS THE RESULT OF BEING CAUGHT BY THE THROTTLE VALVE. MAKE SURE THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH IS SURELY IN "LOCK"(OFF) POSITION BEFORE THE SERVICE IN ORDER THAT THE THROTTLE VALVE CANNOT BE OPERATION .
1. Remove the throttle body. CAUTION
o Do not spray the cleaning solvent directly to the throttle valve.
o Make sure the cleaning solvent does not enter the motor and the sensor through the shaft.
2. Spray cleaning solvent on a clean cloth.
3. Wipe off the dirt around the throttle valve with the cloth sprayed with cleaning solvent.
4. Attach the throttle body.
You can try changing the fluid and then watch it real close, but I suspect you'll be replacing the pump before you're done.
anyway, I haven't had an "old" car in ages, but I never replaced bulbs when I did (young and stupid?)
From the pros, is it likely that in 10 years the bulbs just got weak, and new quality ones will brighten things up? it could be an adjustment issue too I guess, but they seem to be aimed OK, just not very bright (or clean white) light.
I haven't even checked yet but I assume it is just a bulb replacement from behind, but who knows on a car designed in Europe!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
You can buy at autoparts stores, a polishing kit made especially for this problem. Fits in the end of a drill, and has some polish that you apply to a pad. I've found this a mediocre repair. If your car is a common car, then you can find replacement lens online for around 100-150 bucks, and just swap out the whole moulded plastic lens.
Look carefully at any brand new car, and compare to any 5 year old car, and you'll see a big difference in the clarity of the plastic.
Yes the bulbs do weaken with age. Now that brighter replacement bulbs are available that's an option; but I replaced bulbs on 98 with standard GE bulbs from Walmart in 2-pack and was amazed at the difference of the first one compared to the old one.
I would check adjustment of low beam aim. I'm the type that notices where the beam goes on foggy evenings and then adjusts when I get home. Or take a towel to toss over one side and stop along a street or parking lot or alley where you can adjust one withthe other one blanked out. I do it on low-traveled roads.
AND I used the Permatex kit in a plastic box from Advance Auto to scrub the external fogging off my lenses on my Buick. It has 4 grades of wet sandpaper and a coating or melting polish that you rub on at the end. I suspect it's a coating that's put on a polycarbonate as finish when new. It deteriorates with age and then the polycarbonate is exposed to the UV deterioration.
The 4 sandpapers are hand-rubbed in alternating directions to take off the yellowish layer. The papers last and can be reused. You don't have to start with the roughest if you feel your lenses aren't really badly coated.
Note, there still seems to be a deterioration on the inside of the lenses that's much less but still there. There are other kits but one only had two grades of paper. One had two different finishing chemicals. Look on the parts list at stores by internet and then check manufacturer's website. One at Advanced Auto was a closed plastic opaque pouch with only 2 grades of sandpapers in it. Couldn't even see inside the pouch.
I tried the drill polish pad with rubbing compound like some had suggested and that didn't work. Is there a special compound I should have used?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I usually check alignment on the garage door. If I can find the screw, I may adjust it up a bit.
and assuming I can figure out how to get the bulbs out, I will just go ahead and throw in a new set.
Too bad I don't have an owners manual... anyone have a shop manual for a '98 contour and feel like scanning pages?
Oh, and if none of this works, I will sell it and buy a Volvo. One thing I don't like is weak headlights, and probably not the best thing for a new driver (although maybe it wil make him pay better attention?)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Maybe the Contour has that problem, altho I hope yours can be fixed...
At the same time as the Sable, my 2000 Intrepid lit up the highway like daytime, simply halogen, no Xenon...
I want my next car to have HID Xenon, so I can read the classified ads at 100 yards...:):):):):)...no, I don't want to blind oncoming traffic, but they can be well aimed so as not to blind them...
Hello, sometimes the key will not turn the ignition over. I can pull the key out and turn the key backwards towards the accessory position, but just not to the ignition on position. I have to struggle with the steering wheel, and the tilt, sometimes for quite a while before it will work. I am afraid I might break the key off if I don't get this fixed. Does anyone know what is causing this to happen?
Thank you,
Linda
Since different automakers use different AWD systems, the answer to questions like this is always "it depends".
At the very LEAST, I would put two new tires on the front, but even then, I haven't read the Hyundai factory recommendations on replacing tires. Since you are still under warranty, I would read your owner's manual on this subject and do whatever they tell you to do. I would not listen to a tire shop or parts counter person or the tire department at Wal Mart. I would not even listen to ME, because I have a Subaru which uses a different system than your car. (on my car, I'd have to either replace all 4 tires or find a used one that is very VERY close in diamater to what I have on the car, probably the same make of tire as well).
Besides 6/32 is getting down there. You could sell the used tires on craigslist.
This link will help you decide. You might even call tirerack and ask what they know specifically about Hyundai:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=51
C = Pi x D (Circumference = 3.1416 times Diameter)
therefore,
D = C divided by 3.1416
Diameter = 91.43 / 3.1416 = 29.10 inches
You have lost 4/32 inch of tread. Times 2 (top and bottom) gives 8/32 inch of tread which is 0.25 inches of tread diameter lost.
Reducing your Diameter of 29.10 by 0.25 gives a new diameter of 28.85.
Solving for a new Circumference = 3.1416 times 28.85 = 90.64
The difference in circumference = 91.43 - 90.64 = .79 inches, about 3/4 inch.
This is actually more than I would have thought before I did the math. What it means, every time the car moves forward and the tires turn over one time, the wheel with the new tire will move about 3/4 of an inch further down the road than the other tires.
An AWD differential is not 'locked'. It has to be able to allow for differences in tire movement. You do drive thru depressions and over humps in any road which vary from side to side, sometimes tire to tire. Turning also means the tires on the outside roll much further than the tires on the inside of the turn. So the four tires never move exactly the same amount of distance down the road all the time.
I really do not feel secure in any recommendation. I have read where someone put a non-matching tire on a Jeep and rather quickly (50 miles or so) burned up a differential. Don't remember the size difference, something close, like one size difference. I do know I was surprised that it burned out the differential.
This is probably a question for Tire Rack, Discount Tire, or the dealership. I would think the tire stores very well might know more about it that whoever answers the phone at a dealership....
Thanks. Yes I know about Subaru's very tight limit of 1/4" difference in circumference on all tires. That translates to a limit of about 1.25/32" tread difference (C = pi 2r) 3.14 x 2 x 1.25/32 = 7.85/32 which is pretty close to 1/4"
However, the 2007 Santa Fe system is electronically controlled AWD which operates in FWD until slippage occurs in a front tire (pretty well non existent at this time of the year). I have installed the new tire on the rear which is freewheeling most of the time.
I would have preferred to install it on the front but for safety reasons you are supposed to have the most tread on the rear, whether AWD, FWD or RWD. I too assumed front and not too long ago installed two new tires on the front of a FWD vehicle, but live and learn.
The Hyundai manual makes no reference to replacing tires in 4s or pairs and has no notes about AWD system troubles resulting from replacing one tire.
The tires have worn 4/32 and have 2/32 left to the new, safer 4/32 replacement depth. That is 1/3 of there life remaining which I consider significant.
Of course, none of this makes sense if I blow the AWD system so I am continuing the investigation.
Very impressive calculations, thank you.
The existing tires (90.64" circumference) will rotate 699 times in a mile. The new tire (91.43" circumference) will rotate 693 times in a mile.
I find it hard to believe that a variance of 6 revolutions is unusual in a mile of normal driving around corners with all tires the exact same circumference.
I too have read about the burned up AWD components resulting from mismatched tires on 4WD and AWD vehicles, however as I mentioned in my post just above, the 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe system is electronically controlled and is normally in FWD unless slippage is detected in the front wheels. Therefore the rear axle, where I have installed the new tire is normally freewheeling.
The new tire is the identical make, type, tread and profile of the original and varies only by the 4/32 tread depth.
I will continue researching.
Thanks again for the help.
I guess if it were me and I wanted to sleep at nights, I'd at least replace one axle set of tires---that way they'd at least be wearing out at the same rate on both axles, and for that car you can buy very decent tires for about $60--$75 each.
Stay away from those Chinese junk tires.
I was leaning towards checking the plugs, myself.
Try downshifting up the hill and see if the problem goes away. That might also help to verify that it is ignition related and not fuel related.
If you are charging it, it is producting hydrogen.
There are 'jell' type auto batteries, and maybe these are totally sealed.
And the small batteries in battery backup, security system, are 12 volts but are totally sealed. I don't remember what they are called, but their construction if different from auto batteries.
But often the weak wires and plugs do fine as soon as the downshift occurs and the load on the motor is lessened due to the higher gearing.
Because it is described as what sounds like a cyclic pulsing, I wonder if it's something like EGR or knock retard going in and out. You might try a couple tanks of name brand, high grade fuel, and my personal choice of Techron Fuel System cleaner in one of those to clean injectors or combustion chambers--in case they need it.
The other thing that comes to mind is checking with a dealer to see if there's been an updated PROM for the vehicle. I remember my 93 GM car that had a slight uneveness under low motor speed higher load as soon as the TCC locked up at 50-55 on a slight interstate grade. I checked, replaced, etc. GM had a modified PROM to delay lockup of the TCC so that the natural uneveness of the motor wouldn't be felt. Later transmissions had a TCC that never locks up 100% so they don't transmit the uneveness.
A good GM service manager will check TSBs for an update for you. They might have to connect a Tech II to read your current PROM info if there is an update to see if yours is before or after the update. A good service manager might even hint T things to check that cause the symptoms you have without charging to run the vehicle through the shop.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. If equipped with a LX9 engine, perform one of the following steps:
o If removing the left lower control arm, remove the side transmission mount.
o If removing the right lower control arm, remove the engine mount.
4. Remove the front lower control arm bushing to frame bolt and nut.
5. Remove the rear lower control arm bushing to frame bolts and nuts.
6. Prior to removal, note the orientation of the lower contra! arm ball stud to steering knuckle pinch bolt and remove the pinch bolt and discard.
7. Separate the ball stud from the steering knuckle.
8. Remove the control arm from the vehicle.
9. Remove the rear lower control arm bushing.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the rear lower control arm bushing.
2. Position the lower control arm to the frame assembly and steering knuckle.
3. Note the previous orientation and install the lower control arm to steering knuckle pinch bolt. Hand tighten only.
4. Install the front bushing to frame bolt and nut. Hand tighten only. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
5. Install the rear bushing to frame bolts and nuts.
o Tighten the nuts with the lower control arm at the proper Z trim height.
o Tighten the nuts and the bolts with the front suspension loaded by using the proper jackstand.
o Install a new steering knuckle pinch bolt.
o Tighten the steering knuckle pinch nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) .
o Tighten the front bushing to frame bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) plus 90 degrees .
o Tighten the rear bushing to frame nuts to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) plus 90 degrees .
6. If equipped with a LX9 engine, perform one of the following steps:
o If the right lower control arm was removed, install the engine mount.
o If the left lower control arm was removed, install the side transmission mount.
7. Install the tire and wheel.
8. Lower the vehicle.
Went to accelerate yesterday & it "bucked". Wouldn't go over 2K rpm of bucking got worse. I didn't drive it far...5 miles to get my kid at school and back. NEVER overheated...I am car smart & was watching the gauges. When I got home, WATER was pouring out of the undercarriage. I only have one sighted eye so hard to see where the water was coming but more than the usual AC drip that is normal. Water level in radiator is FULL after engine cooldown. No noses heard. Any suggestion?
thanks ahead of time!
holly
Dell has launched its GPS device receivers for the use of PCs. It is Bluetooth enabled device. It has developed this device for the desktop systems and pocket systems. This cost almost 250 dollars to the user and is available with the GPS installation software and kit. The software of the Dell GPS system includes maps of the Canada and the United States of America. It takes more space and memory depends upon the size of the maps. The Dell's GPS system is good for the handheld devices and it provides the best result on the handheld.
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Gps Navigation System
" Apologizing does not mean that you are wrong and the other is right. It only means that you value the relationship much more than personal ego."
I have a 97 Passport with 147,000 miles on it, 3.2V6. It started making a noise like a belt with a bad idler pully; unfortunately it seems to be the timing belt rather than one of the accessory belts. While I have it apart that far I want to replace the left side head gasket, it has been leaking a little bit for a couple of years. Does anyone have enough experience with this engine to tell me what else I should replace while I have it this far apart?
I don't have the timing covers off but am pretty sure I will find a bad timing belt idler pully bearing or tensioner pulley bearing, does anyone have experience with them going bad?
I plan to of course replace the timing belt and all the accessory drive belts. I am thinking about replacing the water pump while I am there to, I presume they do fail sometimes. I think I will go ahead put on a rebuilt alternator too. The cooling hoses look pretty good but am always cautious about them, should I replace both radiator hoses and the other little hoses or are they not a problem? Any other hints someone with some experience with this model will be appreciated.
Thanks
So I would replace all the stuff yo mentioned since you already have it all apart. 10 YO hoses with 147K on them are on borrowed time. The alternater though I might not if it tests out fine, unless it is really cheap and you just want to do it in one shot.
In any chase, I certainly would replace every pully, bearing, tensioner, etc. inside the timing gear case. Assuming, of course, you plan to keep the truck for a while (sounds like you do)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Replace those that you have to tear a lot apart to get to.
4 cylin
auto
6000
Gas motor with diesel fuel in the tank and driven 4.7 miles
Ok here is the deal, last night my daughter put diesel fuel in her XB gold, the car was driven 4.7 miles after that.
There was a little under a 1/4 tank of unleaded in the car when stoppd to get gas. She noticed after a few minutes that she was putting in diesel fuel. At that point she stopped putting in diesel fuel and drove home to tell me LOL. The drive home is 4.7 miles.
This happen in Jax., FL.