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take both parts to a auto supply store and match up a new one,it will be a one piece this time, bolt it on, tighten the jamnut and you are good to go.
the stealer would want probably 150 bucks for putting it on [thats wy i call them stealers,not dealers.]
hope this helps
gas miles. I am not sure were to conect the output of the cell. I have it
conected to a vacum line that comes out the top of the engine.
But be sure you remove the muffler bearings. Using a hydrogen cell produces excess water in the exhaust, which will quickly rust up the muffler bearings and cause exhaust problems. The muffler bearings don't actually do much for the car, and it will run find without them.
I get a high pitched click when AC and or vent is on cool settings (does not do it when vent/ac is off or on hot settings). Seems like it makes sounds when compressor(?) kicks on and off...and it does it frequently. Anyone know exactly what this is and what can solve it?
Thanks in advance!
THANK YOU
I tried charging and jumping it using the + terminal under the hood, not directly on the battery. Is that OK?
Should I start by replacing battery, assuming the possible year or more with loose neg cable ruined it?
The first 3.5 years, I drove the car 100 miles a day.
'96 Riv 3.8L S/C Auto, 168k miles.
and ofcourse the starter solenoid could be failing ,in that case i would replace the whole starter. you can buy all parts needed by a auto supply store[cheaper than the dealer] but you will have to find out what component is causing the problem first.
Should tranny fluid be drained,or flushed.
No problems, just want to do proper procedure.
Thanks
I tried charging and jumping it using the + terminal under the hood, not directly on the battery. Is that OK?
Should I start by replacing battery, assuming the possible year or more with loose neg cable ruined it?
The first 3.5 years, I drove the car 100 miles a day. The last 6 months is has been driven less frequently.
'96 Riv 3.8L S/C Auto, 168k miles.
But if it has something to do with AC, that should appear when the car isn't moving and the AC is on.
Look at the service schedule in your owner's manual. I bet this auto is good for 100,000 mile on the transmission fluid.
Even conservatively, I would not think about servicing the transmission fluid until 60,000 or 75,000 miles, unless you are towing with the vehicle.
3 hrs charging at 4 amps = 12 amps, to get a full batt you need to leave it on for 24 hrs
wild suggestions
1] fuel pump has issues with supplyng fuel.
2] torque converter clutch locks in and out
I suppose the issues with flushing come from those who do it after way to many miles, and end up with troubles. The bottom line is you should change trans fluid every 50K and then you won't need a flush. Sadly, most never change trans fluids even at over 100K on vehicle, and this is simply crazy. I have over 200K on one of my cars with no problems with transmission. When you do service it, changing filter is more critical than full flush.
Good luck,
Warranties-For-Less.com
If you're doing it yourself, I'd change at 36000 miles. You can replace the filter when you drain. I'd use the Dexron VI if it's a replacement for your transmission's fluid which is probably Dexron III? I just used Dexron VI from Walmart in my 4T65E leSabre transmission at 72000. It's about $3 per quart. Dexron VI is thinner since it's not cross compatible with Mercon as well as Dexron III like many are now. That should help mileage. I wonder if it has some synthetic components based on comments from others in another forum.
The factory fluid is good, but I'd make sure to use a good replacement for the approx. 1/2 replaced during a drain. I wouldn't use a flush unless the trans already had some problem. If you replace 1/2 the fluid at 36,000 miles you're going to keep a strong set of additives and antioxidation chemicals in the fluid.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I don't tow. I follow the manufactures recommendations for my vehicles.
I have a 2007 Honda accord,and the manual says to DRAIN and fill 3 times to completely change the fluid. FLUSHING can damage the tranny. So, i checked my GMC manual,and thats where my question came about relative to the SERVICE part.
My trusted mechanic says flush. Obviously, i don't want to screw up the Tranny.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If it is the latter case, and it is running okay, you are looking for trouble by even breathing on the tranny...you might dislodge that broken cog that has been holding everything together for the past 50k...!
When you say "it doesnt start", do you mean nothing happens when you turn the key, or that sometimes it just turns over and over but never starts? The answer to that question will eliminate about 50% of the possible answers.
If it is the latter scenario, I had the same problem with a 1996 LeBaron and after wasting money on all kinds of "guesses" I finally sprung for the diagnostic. It turned out to be a $25 part in the electronic ignition that was malfunctioning intermittedly...only the diagnostic machine at the dealer could spot it.
By the way, there are some parts stores that will hook up their diagnostic machine for free. They might get lucky at locating the problem and sell you the part.
If its a simple matter of not cranking the engine, I would start by asking someone to clean the cable connections to the battery.
Be careful, if you dont do that you wiil have A/C Compressor soon again.
Good Luck!!
When the service spec say 100,000 miles, they mean dump the fluid, change the filter, and refill.
Read your Accord manual closer. The '3 times' procedure is only to be used if you put Dexron in it in an emergency. Honda recommends you get it out as soon as possible, replacing with Honda fluid. And get as much out as possibly, which is where they say do the 3 times fill/drain. For their regular 36,000 service, it is just dump the fluid and refill. I don't think Honda wants a new filter put into it. I may be wrong, but I think the Honda's tranny filter may require a teardown of the tranny to get to it.
As I said before, when you get about 60,000 miles, you can think about a tranny fluid dump and new filter. Replace the plug wires and plugs at this time also. This is being very conservative with the service.
Now I personally think the coolant should not be left to 100,000 miles. Every 3 years, I would drain and refill coolant.
But do what you want. Change oil and filter every 3,000 miles, using synthetic. Drain coolant annually. Change tranny fluid at 20,000 miles. You vehicle will hopefully run to 175,000 miles with no major problems.
Your neighbor that changes oil every 7,500 miles non-synthetic, tranny, coolant, and plugs at 100,000 can also get 175,000 miles out of his vehicle.
Is this just the nature of the car, or should I turn myself over to the tender mercies of the Cadillac dealer? Or??????
Does the DIC flash a message that the Stabilitrak has cut in and ring chimes to be sure you know it's been activated? If not, it's not the Stabilitrak kicking in. Also the traction control is only for acceleration where one of the front wheel starts slipping due to losing traction.
My first thought is that the alignment is bad. It needs to be reset to the optimum settings. IF it has never been realignment in 75,000 it's probably due. My own method would be to have it done at a Cadillac dealer who will properly reset it or at a trusted, high reputation alignment and repair shop. The quickie alignment places just get it "close" and "in specs range" and slam bang you're out the door.
If it only occurs at speed, like 40 and up, it could be a tire out of balance so that when it hits a bump the tire is bouncing up and down and impacting the ground harder causing a pull on the car on that side and the feeling that it has gone sideways.
It could be a strut that's not working properly.
BUT always assume the best and start with an alignment from some place that's not going to try to sell you a radiator flush, new brakes, new tires, transmission flush, and oil additives.
If you're not getting the message on the Driver Information Center (DIC), it's not the Stabilitrak cutting in. Occasionally wheel sensors/hubs go out of kilter and can give a message, but that's not what you've described.
I had my 2003 H-body LeSabre realigned at 70K miles. It made a difference in how it drives. It's the same chassis used on the STS's, and I think you SLS is a related car.
Good luck. Report back what you find out!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I misspoke. The rears are shocks just like on my newer car. Same conclusion though.
And you don't have to go to the dealer--just go to a good, reputable shop.
I recall my recent experience with a tire store in a local large chain for full service tires locally. I wanted my tires rotated and balanced for the free package that came with purchase of my Michelins. The guy drove the car for 10 minutes (I could have told him there's nothing wrong with how it drove), then rotated tires. He was gleeful to come in to tell me that the front pads were down thin on one side (I already knew it because I rotated the tires myself the last time.
They quoted $700 for front pads, new rotors, and rear pads and turn the rear rotors. Actually the front rotors were well within wear tolerance and were true, but they wanted to replace them with $29 rotors charging $75 and wanted to use standard pads.
I put on ceramic GM pads myself. The front rotors I checked myself with a micrometer. Actually the rear rotors have a slight runout problem because GM machined them when one warped slightly under warranty instead of replacing them. Those I'll replace with US made if I can find them when I do the rear brakes. I won't use $29 rotors from the local mass market store.
My cost for pads was $65 + $55 and the rear rotors may be around $50 each: Total $215 for quality parts.
I was waiting for the store to tell me I needed an alignment. My dealer had aligned it a week before.
Did I mention the tire guy left the lug nuts at 50-70,80,80,95 pounds-feet instead of all at 100. That will warp rotors quickly plus it's not safe.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,