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Since the car is only 28 months old but has more than 30,000 miles on it, I was thinking of waiting until 36 months to change the transmission fluid along with the brake fluid. The differential and power sterring fluid I will not have done. How does that sound?
If you don't do any serious towing or heavy duty driving, I'd not worry about flushing the transmission at 30k miles. Checking it is a good idea, but I doubt it's in bad shape yet. On GM cars, replacement is recommended at 100k or 150k miles. I'll bet your Sienna is similar.
The other flushes are usually only a good idea if you're having a problem with a particular system. (e.g. the fuel injectors are wimping out on you-cleaning them out will often help)
To enter the program mode you need to do the following:
Begin with the ignition in OFF. Then, pull back on the turn signal/multifunction lever all the way toward you and hold it while you perform the next step.
Turn your key to RUN and OFF twice. Then, with the key in OFF, release the turn signal/multifunction lever. Once you do this, you will hear the lock switch lock and unlock.
You are now ready to program the automatic door locks. Select one of the following four programming options and follow the instructions. You will have thirty seconds to begin programming. If you exceed the thirty second limit, the locks will automatically lock and unlock to indicate that you have left the program mode. If this occurs, repeat the procedure beginning with Step 1. You can exit the program mode any time by turning the ignition to RUN. The locks will automatically lock and unlock to indicate that you are leaving the program mode. If the lock/unlock switches are not pressed while in the programming mode, the auto lock/unlock setting will not be modified.
The following is a list of the available programming options:
* All doors lock/only the driver's door unlocks: pres the lock side of the power lock switch on the door panel once, then the unlock side once.
*All doors lock/all doors unlock: press the lock side of the power lock switch on the door panel once, then the unlock side twice
* All door lock, none of the doors unlock: press the lock side of the power lock switch on the door panel once, then the unlock side three times
* No doors lock/none of the doors unlock: press the lock side of the power lock switch on the door panel twice. This turns off the auto-lock feature.
I could not find anything about programming the fobs for different feedback (horn/lights). I think you might be stuck with what you've got there.
3.8L V6
Auto
113,800
Vehicle shake @ 70 miles per hour ... not at 65 mph
rotated tires & still shakes ???
I went to start it after driving it literally 5 mins before and it turned over one time then just conked out. After that the engine would not make a sound. It has always been very reliable as far as starting goes and it just died this time. When the key is put in the on or start position the tachometer and speedometer both co all the way up and back. The lights in the car do turn on but they are dim. I had a friend try and jump it but it didn't work. I looked under the hood and the fuse box was making a clicking noise. When i go to start it the clicking persists.
Any suggestions? Ideas?
Has anyone else had this problem?
Any help is much appreciated
I have a 99 chevy tracker soft top. Automatic trans. 96000 miles.
Problem #1: When I hit 45 mph (exactly) it does a weird jolt/ jarring thing, like it can't quite shift gears or something. (Obviously I am not a car expert!)
As soon as I go above 45, it's fine. Below it, it's fine. Just at 45mph. Any ideas?
Problem# 2: when idle (like at a stoplight, sitting in traffic) it shakes a bit every once in a while. Sometimes it trembles all over, sometimes just a little kick, then nothing, then a few seconds later, a kick, then nothing. Is this a timing issue? WHen in neutral it's fine. In park it is also fine. What can I do to fix?
Thank you!!
Is this for real? I'm angry at our stupid state (Ohio) for having this law...I mean, this repair will force me to choose between brakes (what it needs) and getting this stupid light fixed, even if my car is not polluting...and also GM, for making a design so stupid.
Is the dealer telling me the truth, that the bulb can't be replaced?
Thanks,
Bill
I have often wondered why (if) these warning lights are not included in the Emissions Warranty, which exceeds the car's warranty.
Are you the original owner? If not, one might suspect foul play. It happens.
Anyway, it looks like from the reading I've done that there are a series of tests to determine why the MIL (check engine) light doesn't illuminate, and ways to force it to, (if that's possible), and if that doesn't work, the instructions seem to indicate that an MIL that is never on needs to have the instrument cluster replaced.
All this presumes, of course, that there isn't some bad wiring from the cluster to the Power Control Module. One trusts that the dealer has checked this. You might ask if they have detected zero defects in the wiring prior to it entering the instrument cluster.
You might also read over your Emissions Warranty very carefully.
Thanks for the advice on the dealer checking the wiring. I'll ask them that before they replace the cluster.
I'll have to look at the warranty for emissions. I'm pretty sure it was 7 yrs./70K miles, or at the most, 7 yrs./80K miles. The car has just under 109K miles. The irony is, the car runs great.
Thanks for the advice, though...much appreciated.
Bill
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The jolt means this is not taking place smoothly. For what reason, I don't know.
When the auto slows down and stops, the transmission must 'unlock', otherwise it would not be able to 'slip' when you are idling and stopped. If unable to do this, the engine would stop.
It sounds like the unlocking is also not happening smoothly, causing the problems you are having when idling, in gear.
Overall, you've got transmission problems. About all you can do youself, is check that the level of fluid in the transmission is correct. This is usually done on level ground, engine and tranny warmed up, with the car idling in Park. Pull the dipstick for the tranny , wipe, reinsert fully, pull and look at the fluid level to see that it is at the correct level. There will be mark/s on the dipstick.
If the fluid level is correct, you are going to have to take this car to an auto tranny repair shop.
Bill
Odd the politicians had exempted Columbus and Franklin county metro area. Smog there was worst I'd seen at times.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also some debris jamming the valve spring can bend a pushrod.
Last of all, valve adjustment way out of whack can do this, but I think your engine has hydraulic lifters so this might not apply.
I'd pull the head, strip it down and measure the old, and a new, valve spring that you know to be correct.
I have a 05 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution with 19,000 miles on it. I bought it used and car fax shows clen record. There is a slight variable pitched Hum coming from the left front at around 50 MPH and above. I had the tires checked and the mechanic mentioned tire cupping can cause the noise. The car was aligned not to long ago and the tires rotated and still the same thing. There is no play when I move the wheel from side to side. The tires are the orginals. What can it be ??? Please help
Thank You
Mark from NJ
You have no option but to change the tires or live with the noise. Maybe the car was just driven very hard---after all, it is an EVO.
james
www.lincolnlandinc.com
www.bakersauto.com
Lincoln Parts International 1 800 382 1656
It has less than 67,000 miles on it. A Auto
Thanks,
Sadie
Yep make sure your valves go up and down. If they do, then check for spark to the plugs and work from there.
If you don't have this, you are going to have to go to a dealer, and you might be asked for some verification of ownership, such as a registration.
Who know if they are going to charge for this or not. Either way, just make sure you write down the code and keep it for future use.
Maybe we just don't have a reader who has an extensive knowledge, or available service manual, for a 1983 Sentra.
www.nissanhelp.com
But they only have the last 14 years, so looking for manuals that are 25 years old I'd suspect you'd never find. Who's going to keep old manuals around when few of the vehicles have survived that long and are still around to be fixed?
Go to one of the aftermarket companies' online sites (Autozone, OReilly, etc)
Look up the part for your car. Write down the part number that comes up for it.
Look up the part for the other year. If the part number is the same, then the orginial parts are probably interchangable.
As for Exide brand, search on the internet for info, but I was thinking that's one of the companies that makes batteries sold under other brand names. Myself I'm partial to the 7 year old Maxx battery from Walmart in my 98. It's done well for the low cost--whoever made it for Walmart.
Thanks for coming back and letting us know.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
if they did that, then I would guess the caliper pistons are sticking or you have a crushed brake line or deteriorated brake hose on that side. (won't release fluid pressure fast enough).
Good idea. Exide is the second largest producer of automotive batteries in the world. Though their U.S sales seem to be limited. They sell their line of batteries through the 500+ Goodyear Service Centers countrywide. They sell under one other brand I can't recall. Their website says the Exide Nascar battery is the offical battery of Nascar. "Built by Nascar people for Nascar people!"... whatever. Techology is suppose to be "groundbreaking".
My wifes OEM battery in the MPV is going on 4 years old. Still going strong and testing out fine.