I've never had a service center enter my radio presets for me, but then I use an indy shop. I have written down my preset #s to make it easier for me to reset them after. :shades:
Anyone know off hand where the horn is located on a 2000 LeSabre? Attached in a nice, easy to find place on the back of the grill, or more complicated? My son's quickly went from fine, to a faint sound and then out. I am hoping to clean the point where it contacts the car and find that it was just the ground.
Before you go to that bother, pull the power feed to the horn and check with a voltmeter that the power is what it is supposed to be, when you press and release the horn switch. You could have a bad relay.
My guess is they are inside the fenders in front of the wheels. They probably are accessed by removing the pop rivet type plastic things that hold the splash guard around the wheels. I believe I remember seeing that in the service manual and thinking they're buried, but then how often does one need to service a horn.
Check the owner's manual or the cap on the fuse/relay center in the engine compartment and see if it lists the relay as being in there. I can check my 03 factory service manual later in the day if you need more.
on -12-13-2008 my 2005 pathfinder had 60452 miles I took it to a service dept at one of the big chain stores had it check out and service if needed I had the oil change and a front brake job and the rear rotor turn the coolant was good so was tranmission fluid.I would like for someone to tell me if you know the answer why the next day the service engine soon light came on.
I hope it's ok to ask this question here, I know there is no soliciting allowed, so I'm hoping this doesn't fall under that category - I apologize in advance if I'm breaking any rules -
Have a 1998 Ford Taurus, replaced the thermostat, heater core, thermostat again, and a friend who is a mechanic is pretty positive it's probably the blend door.
When I did a search online, I found a ton of sites/info about a product called "Heater-Treater" and was wondering if anyone has tried this for the Ford Taurus? If so, how did it work, etc.?
Again, I apologize if this isn't the type of thing I'm supposed to ask, but I'm at my wits end and would like to give it a try, but was hoping for some input?
I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee larado. I have had it cheked out and they could not find the problem. The lights come on but they will not swich to bright. Can anyone help me?
or a headlight relay............possibly even a fuse, if low beams are fused differently than high........all depends how the lights are wired.
A number of vehicles use a DRL relay to wire the high beams in series (effectively cutting the voltage in half), as a Daytime Running Light. Then when they want them to run as a true High Beam, they'll flip the relay back and wire the bulbs in parrallel so that they get full voltage. One set of burnt points in the relay, will mess it up.
My 2001 Mazda Millenia's rpm's are running a little fast. It's a 6 cylinder with a little over 100,000 miles. Any idea how to correct this problem? Thanks in advance!
I think that for a question that esoteric you're going to have to ask an actual Milennia owner. Fortunately, we have a bunch of them right here in the forums. Here's your link:
My car is a 2000 Ford Focus. It is a manual transmission. When I shift from first to second or second to third the car often bunny hops - I have been paying attention and it seems to do it most when the car is warm, though I have been procrastinating taking it back to the mechanic and now it does it a bit when it is cold. It does not always do this, in fact often it does it a few times and then stopped. I had it looked at and the mechanic thought that perhaps the clutch was beginning to go and I should just ignore it for now, but it does seem to be getting worse - any suggestions?
Is the engine mis-firing at low rpm's under load? or is it transmission clutch related where the clutch is slipping (engine rpm's increase, car speed does not)?
i have a 94 regal 3.8 2 injectors are not working. I am getting 14.5 volts to all 6 injectors. all cylinders have spark. not sure if it is a wiring problem or computer problem?
2002 ford expedition xlt 8 cyl- auto 100k fuses have been replaced several times. wipers, windows, and horn will work for a few minutes; then stop working. Truck also won't reverse until fuses replaced. why are they blowing out so quickly?
I'd definitely test the wiring harness all the way back. Maybe something got yanked or overheated? I suppose you could buy just the injection wiring harness. Any codes from the car's computer?
Because you have shorts to ground which are blowing the fuses. And if you are actually blowing multiple fuses, you have a lot of problems. You probably overheated some circuit and melted a wire, which melted into other wires somewhere in a wiring harness. This then cross-circuited several different circuits.
You need someone with some electrical troubleshooting knowledge to look at this.
Hi I am really not sure how to answer your question. The car jerks as if I were a new driver when just learning how to shift gears. It only happens when I shift up - never happens when I down shift. I think the car is more like the latter of your suggestions - it may be trying to go faster but not getting there.
2006 Toyota Camry, 40K, Automatic. 6 cyl. When lights are on, this bulb goes on and off sporadically. Is the only hardware making this bulb activate located in the light on/off switch on the column?
I have a 93 grand am sedan, somehow the door lock down does not work,never has since i own the car. The door lock button is located on the center console . The doors lock fine by itself when one drives away, and will all unlock simultaniously when stopped and engine is shut of. But one cannot keep locked or unlock all or any door with the door lock button when the engine is running or not.There is power to the lock button, and it works OK.Is there a door lock module on these 93 models? I can't find any under the dash, as per All Data there should be one.There is however a door lock relay, bypassing the relay with a jumper wire has no result in opening or closing any of the door locks either. There is power to terminal C there regardless of the position of the lock button.
There is a 10A fuse which powers all of the illumination light circuitry. Some of the bulbs dim, they all go thru that rheostat that is hanging on that 10A fuse as well. So if the one bulb is not working correctly but all of the others are, then suspect the bulb, or the connection at the bulb socket.
I posted this over in the Jaguar area, but I don't think those boards are read all that often, so I am also posting it here.
This car has about 40,000 miles on it, and is run once or twice a week. It has the non-supercharged engine and of course an automatic transmission. For the last couple of months when I first start the car (in the garage), there is a fairly strong smell of gas. No smell until I start it, and no puddles on the floor. The car starts and runs perfectly and there are no malfunction codes, which surprises me since I would think that this would be detected by the emissions monitoring system. By the time I drive it and then bring it back into the garage, there is no smell or other indication of a problem. I can't figure out where the smell (or the gas) is coming from. Any ideas? Thanks.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
This is a fairly common experience. Probably it has to do with the evaporative emissions system...you might have a slightly loose hose somewhere. Maybe next service you could have that inspected.
Maybe if your car hasn't had this recall done, you can get this done AND a free inspection!!
303-S845
XK
DATE: 06/04 MODEL: 2001-03 MY XK Range
VIN: A13961-A33149
Corroded Filter Vent Pipe - Canister Close Valve - Service Action S845
Issue:
On a number of XK vehicles within the above VIN ranges, the canister close valve (CCV) to filter vapor pipe has been internally corroding. This condition can cause rust particles to flow in to the CCV.
Action:
Replace the filter vapor pipe with the latest specification vapor pipe at the next available opportunity.
referencing the above question, here's another recall related to the fuel system and possible smell of gasoline:
310-S509 DATE 06/05 Amended
V8 XJ Series/XK MODEL 2001-03 MY XK 2001-03 MY V8 XJ Series
VIN A11051-A35295 F20644-F59525
Fuel Filler Cap Difficult To Install/ Check Engine MIL On Revised Fuel Filler Cap Service Action S509
This Service Action supersedes Service Action S481.
Updated information is noted by asterisks.
Issue:
A potential issue has been identified with the fuel filler cap on 2001-03 MY V8 XJ Series and XK vehicles within the above VIN ranges. It may be difficult for some individuals to properly seat the fuel filler cap since the operation is very stiff. This is caused by a large lead angle on the fuel filler cap and can result in a high torque being required to fully seat the fuel filler cap correctly.
Incorrectly installed fuel filler caps can lead to a vapor leak and result in the "check engine" MIL being displayed.
Anyone familiar with the major OBD code readers and reset units. I have a BMW, so given it failed emission inspection, and getting some prices to diagnose problem, I figured it is time to invest in one of these tools. Any suggestions?
My 1997 Infiniti I30, 6CYL, AUTO, 200+. :confuse: will not start. It has just over 200 miles on the car and was running fine until a couple of weeks ago. I tried to start it, no help. After a few jump tries and battery charges, I made a new key (out of suggestion) and it started. However, a couple of weeks later, same thing happened and I have yet to get it started again. Any suggestions???
That's what I was thinking. It couldn't have been the anti-theft system because if that is kaput then the engine won't even crank. So if the engine was cranking and not starting, the new key was irrelevant--that is, there was correlation but not causation going on here.
e.g. "While Shifty was walking down the street, a piano fell out of a building; therefore Shifty makes pianos fall out off buildings".
I've certainly been fooled by this very type of situation.
A reporter from a large financial newspaper would like to speak to consumers who are holding onto their cars or deferring purchasing a car because of economic downturn. Please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Friday, January 30, 2009.
I have a 2004 Suzuki Verona with about 65k miles on it. It was fine about 3 weeks ago, but when I switched from the trip meter to the odometer, it now says the car has 865,556 miles on it! It is a digital odometer, no service since I last checked the mileage, and I renewed the registration earlier this month so I know the reading was correct at that time. Currently, despite the absurd reading, the odometer seems to be recording miles properly at this point. The dealer shop manager said he's never seen this before, but that it must be a problem in the odometer unit (as opposed to the computer).
My question is, since it seems to be working correctly now, and since the title will be TMU whether repaired or not, does it make sense to spend the money to get it repaired? Has anyone out there heard of this before??
Your dealer should be able to correct the odometer reading and it should not affect your title.
Even if they had to replace the speedometer, the mileage is in the computer and all they have to do is set the mileage. They should be able to reasonably calculate your mileage from the last time you were in the dealer or from your registration.
If the dealer will not correct the mileage, then contact the customer service in your owner's manual to see what they can do for you.
I'll wager that the true mileage is 65,556 and for some reason the 100,000 digit was set erronously. Have you tried setting it back to trip and then to odometer?
Comments
Check the owner's manual or the cap on the fuse/relay center in the engine compartment and see if it lists the relay as being in there. I can check my 03 factory service manual later in the day if you need more.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I hope it's ok to ask this question here, I know there is no soliciting allowed, so I'm hoping this doesn't fall under that category - I apologize in advance if I'm breaking any rules -
Have a 1998 Ford Taurus, replaced the thermostat, heater core, thermostat again, and a friend who is a mechanic is pretty positive it's probably the blend door.
When I did a search online, I found a ton of sites/info about a product called "Heater-Treater" and was wondering if anyone has tried this for the Ford Taurus? If so, how did it work, etc.?
Again, I apologize if this isn't the type of thing I'm supposed to ask, but I'm at my wits end and would like to give it a try, but was hoping for some input?
Thanks much!!!
And I believe no one could give an accurate answer to this question.
Have the 'code' pulled that is setting the check engine light. Independent auto parts stores do this for free - Autozone, etc.
2. Remove & rescrew in the gas cap until it "clicks"
3. Add some coolant to the overflow container.
4. Reconnect the Negative cable to the battery.
The above should be done when the engine is cold, preferably before you start it up the first time in the day.
The above has worked for me after it has been in the shop.
Forgive me if I'm missing something, but I see an obvious solution here.
A number of vehicles use a DRL relay to wire the high beams in series (effectively cutting the voltage in half), as a Daytime Running Light. Then when they want them to run as a true High Beam, they'll flip the relay back and wire the bulbs in parrallel so that they get full voltage. One set of burnt points in the relay, will mess it up.
DO NOT turn the Throttle Adjusting Screw which is attached to the device operated by the throttle cable.
Varying your engine timing will also affect the idle speed.
I think that for a question that esoteric you're going to have to ask an actual Milennia owner. Fortunately, we have a bunch of them right here in the forums. Here's your link:
The Mazda Milennia General Topic
Is the engine mis-firing at low rpm's under load? or is it transmission clutch related where the clutch is slipping (engine rpm's increase, car speed does not)?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
100k
fuses have been replaced several times. wipers, windows, and horn will work for a few minutes; then stop working. Truck also won't reverse until fuses replaced. why are they blowing out so quickly?
You need someone with some electrical troubleshooting knowledge to look at this.
I am really not sure how to answer your question. The car jerks as if I were a new driver when just learning how to shift gears. It only happens when I shift up - never happens when I down shift. I think the car is more like the latter of your suggestions - it may be trying to go faster but not getting there.
Thanks for your help
Amy
When lights are on, this bulb goes on and off sporadically. Is the only hardware making this bulb activate located in the light on/off switch on the column?
somehow the door lock down does not work,never has since i own the car. The door lock button is located on the center console . The doors lock fine by itself when one drives away, and will all unlock simultaniously when stopped and engine is shut of. But one cannot keep locked or unlock all or any door with the door lock button when the engine is running or not.There is power to the lock button, and it works OK.Is there a door lock module on these 93 models? I can't find any under the dash, as per All Data there should be one.There is however a door lock relay, bypassing the relay with a jumper wire has no result in opening or closing any of the door locks either. There is power to terminal C there regardless of the position of the lock button.
Any one ,any idea where to look .
There is a 10A fuse which powers all of the illumination light circuitry. Some of the bulbs dim, they all go thru that rheostat that is hanging on that 10A fuse as well. So if the one bulb is not working correctly but all of the others are, then suspect the bulb, or the connection at the bulb socket.
Good luck
This car has about 40,000 miles on it, and is run once or twice a week. It has the non-supercharged engine and of course an automatic transmission. For the last couple of months when I first start the car (in the garage), there is a fairly strong smell of gas. No smell until I start it, and no puddles on the floor. The car starts and runs perfectly and there are no malfunction codes, which surprises me since I would think that this would be detected by the emissions monitoring system. By the time I drive it and then bring it back into the garage, there is no smell or other indication of a problem. I can't figure out where the smell (or the gas) is coming from. Any ideas? Thanks.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Maybe if your car hasn't had this recall done, you can get this done AND a free inspection!!
303-S845
XK
DATE: 06/04
MODEL:
2001-03 MY XK Range
VIN:
A13961-A33149
Corroded Filter Vent Pipe - Canister Close Valve - Service Action S845
Issue:
On a number of XK vehicles within the above VIN ranges, the canister close valve (CCV) to filter vapor pipe has been internally corroding. This condition can cause rust particles to flow in to the CCV.
Action:
Replace the filter vapor pipe with the latest specification vapor pipe at the next available opportunity.
310-S509
DATE 06/05
Amended
V8 XJ Series/XK
MODEL
2001-03 MY XK
2001-03 MY V8 XJ Series
VIN
A11051-A35295
F20644-F59525
Fuel Filler Cap Difficult To Install/
Check Engine MIL On Revised Fuel Filler
Cap Service Action S509
This Service Action supersedes Service Action S481.
Updated information is noted by asterisks.
Issue:
A potential issue has been identified with the fuel filler cap on 2001-03 MY V8 XJ Series and XK vehicles within the above VIN ranges. It may be difficult for some individuals to properly seat the fuel filler cap since the operation is very stiff. This is caused by a large lead angle on the fuel filler cap and can result in a high torque being required to fully seat the fuel filler cap correctly.
Incorrectly installed fuel filler caps can lead to a vapor leak and result in the "check engine" MIL being displayed.
Anyone familiar with the major OBD code readers and reset units. I have a BMW, so given it failed emission inspection, and getting some prices to diagnose problem, I figured it is time to invest in one of these tools. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Ex: Mercury villager, Maxima.
e.g. "While Shifty was walking down the street, a piano fell out of a building; therefore Shifty makes pianos fall out off buildings".
I've certainly been fooled by this very type of situation.
If Nothing Happens, It Could Be:
Ignition switch
Starter solenoid
neutral safety switch
If it cranks and cranks and won't fire up, It Could Be:
Lots and Lots of Things
Input 'Ford 6 speed automatic' and this is the first return:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM-Ford_6-speed_automatic_transmission
I have a 2004 Suzuki Verona with about 65k miles on it. It was fine about 3 weeks ago, but when I switched from the trip meter to the odometer, it now says the car has 865,556 miles on it! It is a digital odometer, no service since I last checked the mileage, and I renewed the registration earlier this month so I know the reading was correct at that time. Currently, despite the absurd reading, the odometer seems to be recording miles properly at this point. The dealer shop manager said he's never seen this before, but that it must be a problem in the odometer unit (as opposed to the computer).
My question is, since it seems to be working correctly now, and since the title will be TMU whether repaired or not, does it make sense to spend the money to get it repaired? Has anyone out there heard of this before??
Even if they had to replace the speedometer, the mileage is in the computer and all they have to do is set the mileage. They should be able to reasonably calculate your mileage from the last time you were in the dealer or from your registration.
If the dealer will not correct the mileage, then contact the customer service in your owner's manual to see what they can do for you.