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Check the owner's manual or the cap on the fuse/relay center in the engine compartment and see if it lists the relay as being in there. I can check my 03 factory service manual later in the day if you need more.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I hope it's ok to ask this question here, I know there is no soliciting allowed, so I'm hoping this doesn't fall under that category - I apologize in advance if I'm breaking any rules -
Have a 1998 Ford Taurus, replaced the thermostat, heater core, thermostat again, and a friend who is a mechanic is pretty positive it's probably the blend door.
When I did a search online, I found a ton of sites/info about a product called "Heater-Treater" and was wondering if anyone has tried this for the Ford Taurus? If so, how did it work, etc.?
Again, I apologize if this isn't the type of thing I'm supposed to ask, but I'm at my wits end and would like to give it a try, but was hoping for some input?
Thanks much!!!
And I believe no one could give an accurate answer to this question.
Have the 'code' pulled that is setting the check engine light. Independent auto parts stores do this for free - Autozone, etc.
2. Remove & rescrew in the gas cap until it "clicks"
3. Add some coolant to the overflow container.
4. Reconnect the Negative cable to the battery.
The above should be done when the engine is cold, preferably before you start it up the first time in the day.
The above has worked for me after it has been in the shop.
Forgive me if I'm missing something, but I see an obvious solution here.
A number of vehicles use a DRL relay to wire the high beams in series (effectively cutting the voltage in half), as a Daytime Running Light. Then when they want them to run as a true High Beam, they'll flip the relay back and wire the bulbs in parrallel so that they get full voltage. One set of burnt points in the relay, will mess it up.
DO NOT turn the Throttle Adjusting Screw which is attached to the device operated by the throttle cable.
Varying your engine timing will also affect the idle speed.
I think that for a question that esoteric you're going to have to ask an actual Milennia owner. Fortunately, we have a bunch of them right here in the forums. Here's your link:
The Mazda Milennia General Topic
Is the engine mis-firing at low rpm's under load? or is it transmission clutch related where the clutch is slipping (engine rpm's increase, car speed does not)?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
100k
fuses have been replaced several times. wipers, windows, and horn will work for a few minutes; then stop working. Truck also won't reverse until fuses replaced. why are they blowing out so quickly?
You need someone with some electrical troubleshooting knowledge to look at this.
I am really not sure how to answer your question. The car jerks as if I were a new driver when just learning how to shift gears. It only happens when I shift up - never happens when I down shift. I think the car is more like the latter of your suggestions - it may be trying to go faster but not getting there.
Thanks for your help
Amy
When lights are on, this bulb goes on and off sporadically. Is the only hardware making this bulb activate located in the light on/off switch on the column?
somehow the door lock down does not work,never has since i own the car. The door lock button is located on the center console . The doors lock fine by itself when one drives away, and will all unlock simultaniously when stopped and engine is shut of. But one cannot keep locked or unlock all or any door with the door lock button when the engine is running or not.There is power to the lock button, and it works OK.Is there a door lock module on these 93 models? I can't find any under the dash, as per All Data there should be one.There is however a door lock relay, bypassing the relay with a jumper wire has no result in opening or closing any of the door locks either. There is power to terminal C there regardless of the position of the lock button.
Any one ,any idea where to look .
There is a 10A fuse which powers all of the illumination light circuitry. Some of the bulbs dim, they all go thru that rheostat that is hanging on that 10A fuse as well. So if the one bulb is not working correctly but all of the others are, then suspect the bulb, or the connection at the bulb socket.
Good luck
This car has about 40,000 miles on it, and is run once or twice a week. It has the non-supercharged engine and of course an automatic transmission. For the last couple of months when I first start the car (in the garage), there is a fairly strong smell of gas. No smell until I start it, and no puddles on the floor. The car starts and runs perfectly and there are no malfunction codes, which surprises me since I would think that this would be detected by the emissions monitoring system. By the time I drive it and then bring it back into the garage, there is no smell or other indication of a problem. I can't figure out where the smell (or the gas) is coming from. Any ideas? Thanks.
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Maybe if your car hasn't had this recall done, you can get this done AND a free inspection!!
303-S845
XK
DATE: 06/04
MODEL:
2001-03 MY XK Range
VIN:
A13961-A33149
Corroded Filter Vent Pipe - Canister Close Valve - Service Action S845
Issue:
On a number of XK vehicles within the above VIN ranges, the canister close valve (CCV) to filter vapor pipe has been internally corroding. This condition can cause rust particles to flow in to the CCV.
Action:
Replace the filter vapor pipe with the latest specification vapor pipe at the next available opportunity.
310-S509
DATE 06/05
Amended
V8 XJ Series/XK
MODEL
2001-03 MY XK
2001-03 MY V8 XJ Series
VIN
A11051-A35295
F20644-F59525
Fuel Filler Cap Difficult To Install/
Check Engine MIL On Revised Fuel Filler
Cap Service Action S509
This Service Action supersedes Service Action S481.
Updated information is noted by asterisks.
Issue:
A potential issue has been identified with the fuel filler cap on 2001-03 MY V8 XJ Series and XK vehicles within the above VIN ranges. It may be difficult for some individuals to properly seat the fuel filler cap since the operation is very stiff. This is caused by a large lead angle on the fuel filler cap and can result in a high torque being required to fully seat the fuel filler cap correctly.
Incorrectly installed fuel filler caps can lead to a vapor leak and result in the "check engine" MIL being displayed.
Anyone familiar with the major OBD code readers and reset units. I have a BMW, so given it failed emission inspection, and getting some prices to diagnose problem, I figured it is time to invest in one of these tools. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])
Ex: Mercury villager, Maxima.
e.g. "While Shifty was walking down the street, a piano fell out of a building; therefore Shifty makes pianos fall out off buildings".
I've certainly been fooled by this very type of situation.
If Nothing Happens, It Could Be:
Ignition switch
Starter solenoid
neutral safety switch
If it cranks and cranks and won't fire up, It Could Be:
Lots and Lots of Things
Input 'Ford 6 speed automatic' and this is the first return:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM-Ford_6-speed_automatic_transmission
I have a 2004 Suzuki Verona with about 65k miles on it. It was fine about 3 weeks ago, but when I switched from the trip meter to the odometer, it now says the car has 865,556 miles on it! It is a digital odometer, no service since I last checked the mileage, and I renewed the registration earlier this month so I know the reading was correct at that time. Currently, despite the absurd reading, the odometer seems to be recording miles properly at this point. The dealer shop manager said he's never seen this before, but that it must be a problem in the odometer unit (as opposed to the computer).
My question is, since it seems to be working correctly now, and since the title will be TMU whether repaired or not, does it make sense to spend the money to get it repaired? Has anyone out there heard of this before??
Even if they had to replace the speedometer, the mileage is in the computer and all they have to do is set the mileage. They should be able to reasonably calculate your mileage from the last time you were in the dealer or from your registration.
If the dealer will not correct the mileage, then contact the customer service in your owner's manual to see what they can do for you.