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That is interesting. So the keyless entry and security systems are integrated.
Apparently, it is never too late to learn something new.
Thanks again.
I have a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus with two symptoms of an electrical problem. First, voltage regulation is occasionally bad, usually after driving 5-10 min, and bad enough to cause visible flickering in the headlights. Second, the car will occasionally not
start; I turn the key and voltage is lost (i.e. the clock resets, no internal lights). 10 seconds later, the car starts just fine. The alternator and battery check out fine.
Anyone have an idea here?
Jim
Thanks!
Jim
12,500 miles and 3 1/2 yrs.
Maintenance requires replace ATF at 30,000 mi. or 24 mos. Fluid is still reddish and no odor, dealer recommends replace fluid. Yes or no? Seems like a ripoff.
If there is any warranty left, in order to protect the warranty, I would change the fluid. But I do think a 30,000 mile/24 month tranny fluid change is awfully short period.
Unless - Is the the period from your owner's manual's service section, or is this a quoted period from your dealer? You do know they lie to you, right? Dealers wanting to do much shorter maintenance periods than called for in the manual is a well known way to move money from your pocket to theirs.
- Go buy ATF and 9 quart drain pan.
- Remove drain plug.
- Wait a while.
- Install drain plug.
- Pour in 4 quarts and look at dipstick, then add 1 quart at a time until full.
- Put receipt in owner's manual.
Cost: $25 or less
They are easy to install as Directions come with them. At most, you might need to use an electric drill, screwdriver, or other simple tool.
I've had a very high pitched noise that is perhaps belt noise, from the belt on the AC compressor pulley. It has been there a year and only the last month it's got a little louder.It's a similar type of noise to a very common one we've all heard - from 'power steering' when you turn the steering wheel right to the maximum full lock - but the noise stops as soon as you back the wheel off an inch. BTW, is THAT noise caused by belt stress?
The belt in my van on the AC compressor pulley looks OK (I replaced it about 6 years and 80 000km ago) but is perhaps just slightly less tight than it should be. But another thing - when I press on the belt between the pulleys, it squeaks loudly like rubber on metal - although the adjacent belt (running the alternator and power steering pump) makes no noise at all when pressed between the pulleys... is this squeaking symptomatic of a belt that's wearing out or too loose?
Thanks
If you are trying to trouble shoot something draining your battery, I can't imagine trying to do that without a set of electrical schematics. Once you have the schematics, you'll see a set of circuits that get turned on when the key is started, usually through a relay. Look for all of the circuits that are powered all of the time, and start unplugging their fuses until you see the current draw stop.
If you can obtain an ampmeter, you should first pull one of the battery cables and put the ampmeter in series with the pulled cable. (In other words, let all the current flow thru the ampmeter. This is how ampmeters work, and means you must have one that can handle 5 or 10 amps, because this may be the size of the current drain in your car.) This should show you the amount of current the short or failed component is pulling because this is measuring the entire electric circuit of the car. You should seen a relatively large drain, more than .3 amp. Reconnect the battery cable and then you should restart pulling fuses. Connect the ampmeter in series across the contacts where the fuse is plugged. The ignition should be off, doors closed, interior lights off, etc - in other words the car should be as dead as you can get it. If there is significant current draw across any fuse, this is probably the circuit with a short. Significant, means, oh, .3 amp or more. If your battery is going from fully charged to dead in one day, you will probably find a greater amperage pull than that.
But if you find the fuse, all you have done is narrow it down to that circuit. You will still have to find the component that is actually causing the drain, or the area of wiring that is shorted to ground. This is where having an electrical diagram of the car is almost always necessary.
And, here is my standard input to battery drains - Does the car have ANY non-stock alarm, remote start, after market stereo, towing package, or any electrical add-on. In MOST cases, if any one of these is on the car, this will, in MANY, MANY cases, be the cause of the drain!!!!
You MIGHT be able to use your voltmeter to narrow down the circuit. When you pull a fuse, with the car 'dead', put the voltmeter across the fuse contacts. If you read any voltage at all, it means that circuit is pulling some current. You don't know how much, but it does mean some current is being pulled. The problem - several circuits (fuses) can correctly pull some power where the car is shut down. The radio will pull current to run the clock that is in most radios. The various computer boxes may pull power because some are always active 'looking' for something to happen, such as the remote lock fob being pushed to open the doors. In a modern car, who knows exactly which circuits are 'active' and pulling current when the car is shut down. The only thing - these circuits should not be pulling much current, or the battery would run down. That why I said to look for 1/3 amp or more if you can get an ampmeter.
Also, your battery must have a pretty good charge in it. If you are testing with a dead battery, your amp/volt meter will not have enough current from a dead battery to detect a pull.
Parasitic drains are not easy to diagnoise. You might have to take to a shop. If you do, specifically ask if they have anyone that understands electrical systems. Not every 'mechanic' knows enough to find a short or failed component.
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The one thing I wonder about is the starter. A neighbor had troubles that weren't there sometimes and occurred occasionally after 10 hours or so. A shade tree mechanic on the other side said it might be starter; they replaced the starter and the problem was gone.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
That article just saves a lot of writing and explaining....so thanks!
Use "valve grinding compound" ( not "belt conditioner" ) to stop belts from squeaking
Problem-loss of power, dash wardnng-"engine power reduced"- problem???
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago with a Ford I had. That problem was a bad sensor on the gas pedal. It's drive by wire and the potentiometer was out of tolerance. When I read it up on the Ford, it indicated that they put the vehicle into reduced power mode so you're able to limp home. I have no idea without researching whether Chev does the same.
But getting the computer read should get you zero'd right in on the problem area.
Date: November 06, 2008
Condition
Some customers may comment on an intermittent MIL/SES light Illuminated with a message center or an indicator that displays Reduced Engine Power. DTC P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation may be set. The voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and APP sensor 2 exceeds a predetermined value for more than a brief period. Refer to DTC P2138 in SI for further diagnostics.
Cause
On some vehicles, the IP to body harness connector, which carries the APP signal to the ECM/PCM, is located in the left hand kick panel area or inside the IP. Water intrusion into these areas could cause an electrical short in the APP circuits setting a P2138 code.
Correction
Note: Make sure that no add-on/aftermarket equipment is electrically connected to the APP signals or to the other ECM/PCM five volt reference or return lines. These can generate false P2138 and/or other ETC System DTCs. If there are other engine DTCs besides P2138, such as MAP sensor faults (i.e. P0107, P0108), resolve these first before attempting to diagnose P2138 DTCs.
Important: Refer to DTC P2138 in SI to confirm that the ETC pedal is operating correctly.
Locate the IP to body harness connector, which may be located in and around the left hand kick panel area or inside the IP. Check to see if there is a water leak into the area and repair as necessary. Use a water hose to determine the source of a water leak and effectiveness of repair. Some examples of potential water leaks are: A-pillar seals, sunroof drain lines (if so equipped) and windshield/cowl sealing. Finally, repair or replace the IP to body harness connector, making sure no corrosion or debris is left on or between the terminals.
An off center hit on the vehicle, may have pushed in the left rear wheel toward the front. If the repair shop didn't pull the left rear back to the correct position before fixing the sheetmetal, you may have a hard time getting it into alignment now.
Take it back to the repair shop.
also 502 speed sensor. do i have to replace the b solenoid? can i do it from under the battery box? what do you thnk? thanks.....
Total pain in the butt...I want to figure out who this company is and how to get a hold of them and how to deactivate this system from my car...all I know about the company is this ID number and the name identity...I googled it all night and all I came up with is your post about this and the thing for sale on E-Bay...this thing sucks anyone with help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!
I have an "Identity" anti-theft system installed on my 2000 Toyota Tundra. The previous owner installed it. I have brought it to two different Alarm/Car Radio shops and they both claimed I do not have an anti theft system installed. They looked in the ignition area, behind the radio and couldnt find anything. This system utilizes a keyfob. I push a button when it wont start and what do you know, it starts. It does this intermittently. The FCC ID is: QY7ADM625 I have looked on the internet and cannot find the company who made this particular device. Any help disabling this system would be greatly appreciated. I dont have to worry about my truck being stolen in North Dakota.
Ivy
One thought, back in 1977 I bought a '66 Plymouth Valiant with the slant six from a friend of my parents. It was a real rust bucket, but it was my first car and cost $75!
When the engine was warm and the air temperature hot, the oil light would come on occasionally at idle. The guy I bought it from said he had the pump output or pressure checked, and it was OK. I later heard that when the oil is hot and thins the pressure may be lower. If you live in a cold climate and are using 5W-20 oil, maybe ths is a problem as the engine warms?
So, I guess you need to find out if the pump is working correctly, and if the sending unit is working correctly. In either case, I wouldn't go far and I'd star building up my credit rating and savings account, if possible!
I don't think a 1998 car is going to store many codes at all, and whatever it might store is probably just related to sensors, as opposed to mechanical problems.
The light goes on (usually) when oil pressure is about 5 lb PSI or less. That's not much oil pressure.
The only sure way to know would be to screw in an analog gauge that actually reads in numbers.
If that gauge shows 5 psi or less, then you would have to drop the pan and check the oil pump for wear, the oil pump screen for clogging, the oil pump pickup tube for damage or being loose (creating suction of air) or.....bad engine bearings.
Keep in mind that an oil pump does not CREATE oil pressure---the bearings do that. The pump merely sets the flow.
Some automakers used to alarm the oil pressure light---I wish they'd all do that.
My truck is a 1997 Silverado 4X4 ext cab, 125 000km. Recently, I got a noise coming out from the front wheel train. Because I knew the right front wheel bearing was due to replaced (because the anti-lock system was not working anymore), I brought it to the garage and the wheel bearing was replaced. I also decided to have all the wheel bearings replaced.
So, 4 new wheel bearings and the noise is still there, more noticeable while steering to the left. When I steer the wheel to the right side, the noise goes off. I can feel the vibration the noise makes (sounds like: "whoam-whoam-whoam") in the truck floor. The garage checked for a defective motor support but no luck. The universal join has also been replaced a few months ago. Edit: still having the noise with new tires.
Any clue?
Thanks.
v6 3.0 liter,Manual trans,130,000miles
Taillights have a short,checked the harness on frame,wires ok,bulbs ok,bulb sockets ok,disconnected harness under passenger seat,short appeared to be in the dash somewhere.A friend suggested replacing the taillight control relay,that didn`t do it eighter.Could it be in the steering column?(head light switch on turn signal arm)