Got a Quick, Technical Question?

etta2

Well, I can certainly do that. However, these things are already about 4 - 5 yrs old, and are pretty beat up... I would like to look into just buying a new set. I guess I'm most concerned with what happens if I do end up losing or ruining them, and not having a place to replace them.

obyone

The fobs are more generic than you know. You can buy them off of ebay for 50% of what a dealer would sell them to you. The directions to program the fobs should be somewhere in your owner's manual.

Check the link:
Tahoe/Suburban keyless remote

And it comes with programming instructions.

bolivar

So, you will probably spend $25 or more rather than $2 for a CR2032 battery (what it probably takes) which can be found at any Walgreens or Walmart.

srs_49

I agree, replace the battery first. If that doesn't work, you can always use the battery in a watch, calculator, or some other small electronic device.

Then, if you still want a nice, new, shiny FOB, go out and buy one. At least by then you should have the old one working and can still can into and start your truck.

jonpipe

My signal lights don't flash, they stay on solid. I bought a heavy duty flasher, you can see a little tiny spark inside,( the unit is see through ). Bad ground somewhere?

kiawah

More likely a bad bulb.

marge9

4 cyl 2.0, Having problems with the power window on drivers side. Will not work when it is cold outside, but when warm has no problem. All other windows have no problem. the lock on the drivers door also will work sometimes and not at others?

Thanks, need to save some cash....

kiawah

Power Window problems are usually one of four problems:
- the window track is binding, and it's too hard for the motor to move the window up or down.
- the window motor itself is bad, or weak
- the switch on the door panel is bad, or has resistance
- the wiring supplying power to the door panel, has resistance, usually because it has flexed thousands of time from the door being opened and closed at the door joint over the years. This is typical of cars let's say 10 years old or grtr.

A digital voltmeter/ohm meter is necessary to trouble shoot and figure out which of these problems you have.

You'll need to open up the switch, and measure the voltage being supplied to the switch, and the voltage being supplied to the motors wiring when the switch is depressed. If you open the door panel, you can measure the voltage at the door window motor connector. If need be, you can even supply your own power from a wire to run the motor manually yourself. To check binding, you unbolt the window motor, and move the window up and down yourself, be careful not to cut/pinch yourself as the window moves.

Since you are reporting both a window and door lock problem, I would suspect a power supply problem first.

srs_49

I just finished fixing a stuck window problem on my wife's 2007 Grand Caravan. See my post in the T&C Grand Caravan thread.

deltheking

I have an 04 Nissan Quest minivan and it says 91 grade fuel is recommended and 87 can also be used. So the other day I was driving on interstate and had to fill up and I notice that the pump only has 86/88/90 denominations.. Then I later realized that some pumps have 86/88/90 whereas some have 87/89/91 configurations..Whats the difference between the two? :confuse:
Also I put in 86 at that time as I was almost empty. I always put 91 premium and I should have put in 90 grade -- I totally forgot and put in 86...So will this harm the engine??

euphonium

No harm as several of the 467 Sensors will adjust the timing.

0patience

Since you are reporting both a window and door lock problem, I would suspect a power supply problem first.

Agree with that. Don't forget to check the grounds too.

marge9

Thanks for the info guys! My kid is asking for 500 bucks for a mass air flow sensor for his 01 nissan pathfinder. Needs to be smoged he had someone clean the sensor but it was still giving the code for a problem with the sensor. I found this link online. http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/3180-2001-pathfinder-mass-airflow-sens- or-5.html#post50116
saying that I could use a maxima MAF that would cost 120. I'm no expert but it seems to work according to that page but I don't want to suggest it and have to go back and buy the 500 buck one too. If I buy the maxima one and try it but it doesn't work would i be able to return it? husband says no way but I need to save cash. Also would it affect the smog test? the cel is on and it will automatically fail because of it.
Thanks for your time and help! Awesome site!

euphonium

What did "someone" use to clean the sensor? Did the "someone" reset the computer after the cleaning? $500 seems about 4 times too much for the sensor.

Mr_Shiftright

That $500 is retail dealer pricing---I'm sure you could do better but I'm not sure the diagnosis has been dealt with properly. The "code" does not tell you which part is defective--it only tells you which circuit is distressed (and this may be due to any number of reasons).

To replace a part strictly based on the code is like replacing your heart because you got a high blood pressure reading.

srs_49

Yep, but that's the way things are troubleshot nowadays. Replace something - anything - and see if the problem is fixed or the symptoms change.

Not to digress too much, but it brings up an experience I had with a heat pump on my house. When used in the winter to provide heat, the outside unit gets cold. When it's damp out or snowing, the outside coils will freeze up, so the system periodically goes into a defrost mode to thaw out the coils.

Anyway, my unit was not defrosting. An HVAC tech said it was the control board that would cost $400 to replace, plus the $70 for the service visit, and that the board would have to be ordered. Well a week went by and still no control board, so I started poking around a bit (using the schematics on the door of the unit) and found that a $10 relay was sticking closed. I replaced it and that solved the problem. Called up the HVAC place and told 'em to cancel the new part order and, by the way, to refund my money for the service visit (which they did).

obyone

Yep, but that's the way things are troubleshot nowadays. Replace something - anything - and see if the problem is fixed or the symptoms change.

Some say that's what Toyota is doing with this UA crisis.

Mr_Shiftright

A MAF can have certain values checked such as voltage at idle and g-m/sec measured by a diagostic tool like CONSULT II

To buy a $540 part based solely on a code without further value measurements is nothing more than a WAG. :P

obyone

Well if it's a Lexus the MAF is $1500.

Mr_Shiftright

Well it's that gold-plating at $1000 an ounce I guess :P I hope Lexus doesn't get a bad case of "Mercedes syndrome", which drove repair prices up so high, that it left room for a competent competitor to move right into their market.

orchiddj

Hello,
2000 Chevy express van 4.3 liter about 115K.
This problem literally happened overnight
We use this part time so it does sit a lot. Used Saturday about ½ hr drive each way ran fine. Got in Sunday morning (cold morning for FL about 40 degrees) started and got a tapping noise like stuck lifter. Thought maybe it was the cold. Drove about 5 miles and tapping went away. Everything seemed ok until we slowed for traffic light. Then the engine started making a whining sound. Have oil pressure gauge, typical at idle about 40 psi and running down the road about 60 psi. we were at about the normal 60 psi. the noise went away until next traffic light. Pulled over and checked oil. dip stick was not registering. Looked under for leeks and back by tail pipe for signs of blow by, found nothing. Stopped and added 3 quarts of oil and still not showing on dip stick. Got where we were going. Let van set for a few hours and the oil level was way high. On way home same as described above. Got home and the dip stick was not showing like in morning. Again after setting was way over full. I had checked the oil a few days prior and was perfect.
I am thinking oil pump is working and oil is getting pumped up and not returning.
A coworker suggested changing oil and adding quart of mystery oil.
I was at parts store web site and found a product by Gunk called engine flush. Wondering if this may work.
Obviously you can’t say for sure if this will help but is there a possibility this could clean the oil return and solve my problem.
I have only owned about a year but I know for a fact the oil was changed every 3-4k since new.
From my trip Sunday there were no burning smells or any signs other than noise and dip stick readings.
Also after about 15 minuets the pressure gauge at idle was down to about 25 psi and at 50 mph about 40 psi. (lower than normal) if I start the truck right now will get tapping and oil pressure will be normal until runs/drive about 15 min.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

:sick:

srs_49

Oil is pumping but not returning? Not likely, IMO. There are many oil passages in the engine, and many return drains all in parallel. I could see a localized pooling of oil if a return channel was clogged, but that would not affect the oil level in the pan very much at all.

I have heard that high oil level indications on the dip stick, when you are sure the crankcase has the right amount, can be cause by oil wicking up or pooling in the dip stick tube.

burdawg

If the oil is fresh it can be hard to see on the dipstick when the engine is warmed up. Are you sure it was low? Sometimes you have to look very close. It's a lot easier to see when it's cold. I doubt if oil return is the problem, there's to many paths, most of it goes to the bearings and drops right back into the pan on a 4.3 V6. Slight lifter noise when the engine is cold wouldn't concern me on this engine with these miles. Don't know about the whining, could be lots of reasons.

imidazol97

I'd want to see what's under the valve covers. I'd run something into the drains and see if they're clear after I drained the oil and measured how many quarts drained out.

Then I'd pour oil into the return openings and see how quickly it shows back up falling into my drain pan.

Since I do a lot of stuff myself, I'd try to take off a valve cover quickly when the oil level had dropped after driving. Then I'd repeat the drive and remove the other valve cover looking for a volume of oil still not drained back.

I'd run something into the drains and see if they're clear after I drained the oil and measured how many quarts drained out.

Then I'd pour oil into the return openings and see how quickly it shows back up falling into my drain pan.

Might not be an eloquent method of diagnosis, but it would eliminate the upper gallery as a reservoir for the hidden oil.

burdawg

Maybe so, but I have a hard time believing that the oil return passages in the heads are that clogged all of a sudden. There's not that much oil going to the rockers. Anything is possible though.
I had a 55 Buick for years that had the oil fills on the valve covers (some 322 nailheads had a tube mounted on the galley cover) and when changing the oil the cold oil would take several minutes to flow down from the heads to the pan (I mean like 10 minutes or so). It didn't matter which valve cover you used, both sides were the same. When the engine ran however the hot oil flowed fine. It was just one of those things I learned to deal with, make sure that the oil was actually in the pan before starting it.
I remember an incident many years ago when I was in the Air Force. I went with a group of others guys on a temporary assignment from where we were stationed in Utah to Mill Valley, California. Since it was only a short trip they had us get a couple of big passenger vans from the motor pool and drive ourselves (plus we wanted to stop in Reno, that's another story). Anyway, these vans were brand new with just a couple hundred miles. At the first gas stop one of the young guys in my van decides we should check the oil "just in case". Lo and behold, he says it's low and needs at least one quart. We get a quart and put it in and go on our merry way. Next gas stop he decides to check it again and uh oh, it's low again! So he gets another quart and puts it in. At the third stop he says "It's low again!" but this time I say wait just a minute. I go and dip it myself and take a close look at the dipstick, and find that it's about 2 quarts overfilled. The oil was so clean on a new dipstick that it was real hard to see, you had to look very close.

jhayes9835

I have a 2008 Pontiac G6. I did not realize that the wiper blades were frozen to the windshield and when I turned them on I heard a pop. The motor is working but not the wiper assembly. I can manually move the wiper assembly freely. Is there some sort of coupling in there that I can replace and is it hard to replace?

kiawah

Don't know the Pontiac specifically, but normally there is a ball and socket type of linkage, where the wiper arms are linked together, and another ball and socket connection over to the wiper motor.

It wouldn't surprise me if the arm just popped off the ball, that is on a plate on the back of the motor. Take the trim off at the area between the bottom of the windshield and the back of the wiper motor. Get access to those arms, it will become obvious what the fix is.

alternator

Yesterday the speedometer on my 2005 Chevrolet Cavalier (with less than 20,000 miles) started reading much higher than my actual speed. The odometer and other gages continued to read normally.

All day the readings got higher and eventually went over 110 mph even when setting still.

Now it fluctuates between 75 mph and over 110 mph, mostly reading over 110 mph.

What is most likely to be the problem ?

kiawah

Do a google search on instrument cluster repair.

For instance....
here's one

markhud

I have a 1982 Datsun pickup with the four-cylinder "SD22" diesel engine and manual transmission. What are the chances this engine would bolt up to the manual transmission of a 1987 Isuzu Trooper that had a 4-cylinder (gas) engine?

Is there a list of bolt-patterns on engines vs. transmissions?

Mr_Shiftright

Not a chance in hell I'd guess. Of course, with machining and ingenuity and money, anything is possible. Aside from bolt pattern issues, you'd have to solve transmission input shaft to the engine's crankshaft fitment, Isuzu starter motor fitting the NIssan engine's flywheel, clutch size differences, and possible clearance issues for the engine and exhaust. Also you'll need a glow plug circuit w/ fusebox, etc.

99accent

2003 NISSAN LE PATHFINDER ,I asked a question about a tappet noise when cold for the first few minutes then it goes away , well some answered and said that some small bolts or screws can become loose on the top of the engine a V6 , and I cant find the same post , does anyone one know about any bolts or screws that become loose on these engines ,and the fix was lock tight each screw? :confuse:

jeffeverett

The key to your question is ( a tappet noise when cold for the first few minutes then it goes away ) so i don't think warming the car up would not make a difference, if a bolt or screw is loose it's loose no matter if its cold or warmed up. Usually when a cars (tappets as you said).make noise because there is not sufficient oil to them. I have a 2004 grand am 4cyl that does the same thing when its cold outside, the oil just don't get there fast enough and soon as it does the noise goes away.Could be rings, oil pump that are causing this.

Mr_Shiftright

I agree....loose bolts don't tighten up when they get warm.

This is just valve lifter noise. Unless it is excessive, it's not a problem. If the engine gets quiet when warm, you're still good to go.

If the noise does not go away, or the TAP TAP becomes *very* loud and persistent, then you have a problem.

The only remedy on this particular engine is to replace the lifters with slightly thicker ones. There is no adjustment possible.

This would not be cheap, since you'd have to remove the camshafts to do the job.

jipster

My 1999 Buick Regal is coming up on 100,000 miles, which the manual says calls for a spark plug change. It's running well (knock on wood). The plan is to keep driving it for about another year or so. I guess I'm worried about the mechanic screwing something up while putting in new plugs. So, change the plugs or just keep driving until the car starts to run rough???

imidazol97

Change the plugs and replace with the proper GM Delco Plugs. Replace the spark plugs wires at the same time with an OEM level replacement. I personally haved used Belden brand I buy at NAPA. If plugs and wires start to break down, that affects the coils and spark control unit.

jipster

What's a dealership charge for a tune-up these days? I'm guessing $2 a plug (at part store), $5 a wire, and $100 an hour?

obyone

Platinum plugs are at least $4 each. Wires can be had on the cheap as dealerships have been known to order them through Napa for $20 or less. Only problem is a few of the plugs might be frozen cause a 100K miles is a 100K miles and they have been known to break apart while trying to remove. Personally, I wouldn't have gone past 50K without changing no matter what the manual says.

The dealer's hourly rate should be posted. i haven't seen any under $125 hour.

euphonium

When the clock is ticking & keeping accurate time, why wind it?

obyone

Because the manual says so. Similar to oil change intervals.

euphonium

Fair enough. You read the manual while I scope the dipstick after I pull one plug and examine it as well. If it's satisfactory, chances are so are the rest.

obyone

I would think that at 100K miles that the plugs have worked long enough. Then of course YMMV.

jipster

Plan on getting plugs changed out within the month... just a tad rough when idling.

Same Buick Regal. The drivers side power window is not working properly. Will power down occasionally without problem... always goes back up without difficulty.
Is the relay switch itself on door wearing out, as sometimes pushing harder will get it to roll down? Or, is the door electrical motor the problem? Thanks.

kiawah

Suspect the switch.

If the motor was bad, pushing on the switch harder would have no effect on the motor movement.

The contact points on the switch are probably pitted and bad, with a higher resistance.

obyone

Agrred. It would make no difference to the motor on how hard you pressed the switch as it would on bad contacts.

srs_49

Switch (bad contacts) or possibly something binding in the window track on the way down.

The switch just determines which direction the current flows through the motor windings. One position drives the motor clockwise (CW), which moves the window one direction.The other position drives the motor CCW which moves the window in the other direction.

jipster

Switch (bad contacts) or possibly something binding in the window track on the way down

I tried to widen out the window track about a week ago. I'll take a closer look at it.
Thanks all.

ah64_ip29

2001 Mazda Tribute ES 3.0L V6 4WD w/ towing package (auto)

I'm changing the Catalytic converter and exhaust Manifolds. I've gotten the rear manifold loose, but since it has the small catalytic converter as part of it I can't get it out of the engine compartment. It won't go down and out because of the differential, frame, and steering rack. It won't come up and out because there is not enough clearance between the head and the firewall.
What should I do to get them out?
Should I remove the radiator, loosen the motor mounts and tilt the entire engine forward?
Should I remove the rear cylinder head (I'd like to avoid this if possible)?
Any other ideas? Thanks for the help.

kiawah

I don't know anything about Mazda's, but I've read someone say on a different brand that they torch it to cut it out, and then in putting the new one in, weld it together in place.

This may not be a DIY'er job.

oregonboy

That sounds like there would be a large number of ways to go wrong. Murphy's law is wating in the wings... rubbing his hands together. :P