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It claims:
"If a problem is found, CarMD tells you in simple English what's wrong with your vehicle, what's needed to fix it and even how much it will cost in your area."
Even a $3000 diagnostic tool can't do that---so you're getting it for $19.95?
Er....I don't think so.
Also, the device limits your use and cannot reset codes---and I suspect will miss a lot of codes as well.
you know, for the money, it's probably better than nothing, but I think one has to have realistic expectations.
I personally wouldn't buy it because I need to reset the codes---also a code doesn't tell you what component is defective--it only tells you what system or circuit is in distress.
So relying totally on this device will probably lead to a lot of parts being replaced unnecessarily.
on the other hand, it does give you some information to tell to a mechanic, so that's maybe worth $19.95....or you can have Autozone tell you the code for free.
Did you ever found the root cause of your problem? I'm having the same issue with my Cougar 99
problems and it works like a dream,but I have just gone over 10,000 miles w/ it and I
mentioned it to my mechanic and he said I should have it serviced,change the fluid and clean the filter and all. With new parts spinning at high speeds and all that made
sense,but after checking the website, I have gotten mixed messages about this.Is it
better to service it, or leave it alone? It is not an expensive service and if it will extend
the live of the car,then lets do it.But I'm not one to waste $78.
Thanks,
Andy
You don't change fluids in 10K mile in a brand new transmission, why would you think to change it in a rebuilt one?
Also, make sure the filter is changed, not just "cleaned".
Here's a picture tutorial: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/SSbrakelines.html
I realize it's a Lexus, but that looks exactly like what I did when replacing brake lines on other cars.
I could use the money elsewhere and it has been having no problems.I appreciate the feedback.
who you ask.The prevailing wind says,"if it ain't broke,don't fix it".So I won't.
Type & Size of Engine: 4 cylinder 2.0 liter (with AC)
Transmission Type: Auto
Mileage: 65K
Problem: Vibration at idle. Vibration gets worse when in gear.
Other Info:
-Idle speed looks like about 600-700 (when warm), but drops below 500 when put in "D". (as best I can tell from the tach)
-When cold, it's pretty smooth.
-I replaced both engine mounts last week (one was broke). I didn't check the transmission mount.
-The radiator leaks slowly. The engine has sometimes been running a little hotter than usual (when the coolant gets low) but has never been overheated.
-It never stalls.
-It always starts right up, hot or cold..
I'm trying to fix this for my lady. She takes real good care of the car, and it looks almost new. Ever since the extended warranty ran out, I became the mechanic.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I can replace any part that needs replacing (I haven't taken any of my own vehicles to a shop since 1989), but sometimes I need help with diagnosing... Thanks in advance
Jim
PS, we already got a new radiator. It's going in tomorrow..
thanks,
bieks
thanks,
bieks
Since your brake light switch "makes" a ground when you press on the pedal, I can only assume that the circuit is grounded somewhere before it even gets to the brake pedal switch.
WHERE that is, well, it's anybody's guess.
If I were you, and I could determine that the circuit does run through the directional switch, that's probably what I'd look at.
These types of problems can be nasty.
Wired this way, there isn't much way a bad ground can cause a problem with staying on, only with not lighting up at all.
You are getting juice to the brakes all the time. If your brake switch wire is disconnected and they are still on, it is getting juice some other way.
Is the brake light on all the time, no matter if key is on or off? If so, then who knows where the juice is coming from.
If they are on only when the key is on, then there is probably a problem with the multi-switch. It flashes the brake light for the turn signal. Or, if someone has been cutting into the wiring somewhere, like a trailer wiring package, and these wires are all crossed up, it can mess up the turn signals bad.
The emergency flasher is also hot all the time and leads to the brake lights. Has someone been cuting into this?
Actually, just put it in the car. if they tranny craps out, it was probably no good.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If a cell goes bad, it will typically 'short out', so it has zero volts and your total voltage would be in the 10-11 volt range.
A 4 year old battery is typically either at the end or nearing the end of battery life. I know that some mfg's say 5 year, 6 year, 7 year etc.....and I've had some individual batteries last that long, but if I get 4 years out of a battery and start to notice anything wrong at all, I replace it. I've found northern colder winters are much harder on batteries, than now living now in the south. So at the first hint of having battery problems, I just replace them and move on. Next one will be good for another 4-5 years timeframe.
It's not worth being stuck somewhere, or need a tow somewhere, over a 50-75 dollar battery. Replace it on my terms when I want to, not when the vehicle is stuck somewhere. Also, with the electronics in today's newer cars, you actually want to change the battery while maintaining power to the computer, and auto repair chains will typically loan you a small battery pak which you plug into the computer plug to achieve that.
You can get the white powder off with baking soda, small amount of water, and a wire brush. Do not splash on the paint. The powder is acidic, the baking powder a ''base', which neutralizes the acid. I then coat with a thin coat of petroleum paste, or there are other things you can buy at auto parts store.
But if it were me, 4 years and corrosion....battery is gone.
P.S. and I highly doubt you have two cells gone. Your vehicle would appear totally dead, and probably you couldn't even get it to jump to start. With one cell out, it's extremely limited.
If two of the cells are bad, then the battery should be replaced under the warranty, whether or not it is holding a charge. If the cells are really bad, than the amount of charge the battery can hold (battery capacity) is reduced.
I had a battery go six years with no corrosion using this method. It was the record because I often sell cars way sooner than that.
If you have a battery replaced under warranty, then they are pro-rated as per the number of months already gone. It forces you back to the same place you bought the original battery, and you may or may not find the resultant 'deal' the best, when compared with competitively shopping for a new battery.
The classic way to test a battery is to first verify it's fully charged by measuring the voltage. If it's good a load tester is applied to see if it will maintain that voltage under a specific load.
Another test is to take a fully charged, disconnected battery and monitor it's at rest voltage over a period of time to see if it is maintained or gradually drops over time. I do this with my boat batteries quite often. A lot of times an older battery that passes the load test will still gradually lose charge over time, which is warning you that it won't be much longer before it will need to be replaced.
You need to remember though that in all modern cars (and many boats) there's always some load on a battery. The radio memory, keyless entry, security, etc all put small constant loads on the battery. For long term storage a float charger isn't a bad idea.
Now we would like to know , does this repair ALWAYS involve taking off the dashboard of the car? can it be done from under the hood? We would like to try to do this ourselves, and can not find anything in our book that came with the car//
I called one auto place, ( the dealership where we purchased this car , in "92, and they quoted us a price of 800 to 900 dollars,!!!! I think that price is unreal? or is it???
thanks again for all your help? we do appreciate it...
janeyjan
In cars, there is a structural metal thing called a firewall, that separates the engine area from the passenger compartment.
That's not something that would be in an owners manual. It's covered in the service manuals that garages buy, which contains multiple hundreds of pages. Some of my vehicles that I've bought service manuals for (very expensive), are multiple volumes of books. I have one 3 volume set which is about 6" thick.
This isn't a repair you should attempt, you have more chance of ruining something else, than you have of fixing the current problem.
Take it somewhere that knows what they are doing (you're paying for the expertise), or live with the problem. (Buy a 12volt fan you plug into the cig lighter, smile).
I guy I know did a photo documentary on replacing (I believe) the heater core on a Volvo 240. Simple, basic car, pretty low tech.
Well, it took him about an entire weekend, since you basically had to dismantale the entire dashboard and center stack to get at it. And even harder, remember how (and in what order) it all went back together.
Not something for the faint of heart.
But, if you want to do any elaborate audio upgrades, this would be the time!
and it also falls into the catagory of, if there is something else that could be replaced at the same time that is a potential failure item and the part is cheap, do it too while you are in there, since the labor would be the same later.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I know the computer turns the fans on by creating a ground. My question is does anybody know if the computer can cause this problem or what else it may be?
fans not coming on for Radiator cooling and Condenser fans. I have been told it
could be my PC not sending the signal to come on.
Thanks in advance
Ronmat
Have you checked fusible links for radiator and condenser fan circuits? Fuses for their respective relays? The relays themselves?
I have a 05 Santa Fe with 3.5 liter V6 auto transmission.
I have checked all fuses under the hood that relate to the radiator or condenser fan. I also checked the fuses in side the car under the steering wheel and all were good. I took the relays that are under the hood and swapped with the horn relay and all three checked out. (I would beep the horn and then swap the relay and bump horn again, thus eliminating any questions of whether the relay was switching when energized)
I then took the radiator fan connector loose and ran power directly from battery to fan connector and fan then came on. I had both fan motors replaced because that's what the mechanic told me was wrong. I have also turned car on and let temp gauge go to medium and then disconnected the temp switch on engine block and gauge would go to zero on dash. This confirmed that all fuses, relays and gauges that I know of do work. I looked at a schematic and it shows all three relays in series and the PCU is fed a signal from the temp switch. The PCU then sends signal to relays to turn on and send power to fans. I can't even find the PCU on the body of the car? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I don't have schematics for your vehicle, but some vehicles use the relays to switch the fans from being wired in parallel (each motor getting the full 12volts and running at full speed), to wiring the motors in series (thereby both motors getting only 6 volts at running at low speed).
But first things first. Hang a test lead off of the input to the first relay, so that you can put a voltmeter on it. Definitively prove that the Relays are getting the voltage to turn on and energize, or not. You want to do that with the relay in circuit, so that you're effectively testing whether it is outputting enough voltage/current to turn on the primary of the relay....it's testing the voltage 'under load'.
The ECM looks to be just to the right of the gas pedal, on the transmission hump.
As an example, I don't know why you had to replace your radiator.
a.) you could have had a situation, where everything was fine in your cooling system, EXCEPT, your radiator got physically damaged and sprung a leak. And then you replace the root cause problem (bad radiator), and everything is good in the world.
b.) you could also have had a situation, where you have a bad head gasket. That bad head gasket is causing exhaust gases to enter the coolant chamber, overpressurizing the cooling, which blew out your radiator. You know nothing about the head gasket problem, all's you know is your radiator is bad. You fix the radiator, but all is not good in the world. You still have the original root cause problem, and therefore you will still have problems and other cooling symptoms that will show up.
There are other scenarios that could play out, I only give you those two of examples of the same symptom of a bad radiator, but two totally different root cause problems.
So monitor closely your cooling system, and make sure it's not getting overpressurized, make sure when it's cold and you start it the coolant is topped off (if refilled itself from the overflow when it cooled), make sure when you start it the coolant isn't moving (thermostat is closed till the engine warms up), make sure as the engine warms up to temperature the coolant starts to flow (confirms thermostat is openeing, and that water pump is pumping), make sure as it continues to warm, that the radiator fan turns on, cools it down, then turns off. Etc.