Got a Quick, Technical Question?

jipster

With the warmer weather the drivers side power window is operating a lot better. I suppose some expansion in the metal contacts for the switch. :confuse:

jipster

Engine died on expressway the other day. Re-started on the go, but when giving gas would cut back out. Coasted to side of road. Would re-start fine, but when stepping on gas would cut out again. After 2-3 attempts and letting idle, was able to gradually give gas and ran fine, no further symptoms today.

Replaced the idle air control valve a few minutes ago... as they have been a source of problems on the MPV. The port near the air housing was fine, the port towards the engine/throttle body (not sure) looked to have oil/grime near the surface. Don't know if this is normal or not? Was expecting carbon build up. :confuse:

srs_49

Or, the window track/gasket has less friction now that it's warmed up. Problem now is you may not see the problem again until it gets cold, next winter. So anything you do now, you don't won't know if you fixed the problem until next winter rolls around.

Mr_Shiftright

I'd certain pop the panel off and clean and adjust everything in there. If the window is binding in the channels, it's going to kill the motor soon enough.

jipster

I'd certain pop the panel off

You're talking about the panel on door that covers all 4 window switches? I tried to pop it off, didn't seem like it wanted to.

Window gets caught a couple times each winter ( not going down) due to snow or ice. Always went up fine, hopefully nothing wrong with motor.

What are your thoughts on the idle air control valve from previous post?

Mr_Shiftright

Don't really know what to say about that. :confuse:

jipster

Had a chance to look at that IAC valve in the full light of the day. There is carbon build up around the interior metal rod piece.

Some people have said can clean, some say replace. The van cut out on the interstate during rush hour traffic the other day, so replace sounded like the best choice.

obyone

The reason some say to clean vs. to replace is due to the electronics in the part which is very sensitive to cleaners. You could use throttle body or electical parts cleaner. If you clean and it works fine no problem. If not just replace as it isn't an expensive part. You may also want to check the throttle position sensor as it's known to cause the type of problem you are describing.

euphonium

Replacing the IAC sensor after removing it, equals the same quality of reason to replace the spark plugs after you've removed them for sand blasting.

(The last time I sand blasted a plug - it came out of a '39 Chev just prior to my Army career.)

dorem

I found it. I had the same problem, and found the info on the FCC website.

https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/prod/oet/forms/blobs/retrieve.cgi?attachment_id=316369- &native_or_pdf=pdf

If the link breaks, go to the fcc website and search for the FCC number. there are two fields - first 3 digits, and the last 6.

-Dore

puddles1976

I have a 2003 Ranger and it's having problems again. I thought I had it licked, but the truck thinks otherwise. Throws code Cylinder #5 Misfire, #10 Engine Controller on my Scanner. I changed the Coil Pack back in January, things cleared up for a bit, now it runs poorly, and throws this at me. Help!
Could I be in for a Computer now?
Thanks for any help,
Dale :sick:

srs_49

1. Pull the plug and look for wetness, oil, etc.
2. Swap coil packs with another cylinder and see if the problem moves or stays with #5.
3. Check/inspect the wiring between the ECU and #5 coil pack.

puddles1976

Coil Pack is a Monolithic, just changed in January, Plug Dry. Wires in decent shape. It threw a blinking check engine light when I drove it last, but I tried it earlier and the light stayed on and did not blink.

deeball

Check engine warning light is showing constantly. Garage says computer diagnostic check found trouble code for lean system due to purge valve sticking. Cleaned connections and clear trouble codes. Driving absolutely fine and no other problems other than this warning light. Drove fine for @ 24 hrs with no light and then it starts showing again. Once again car driving absolutely fine. Has anyone had experience of this - garage informed me that if it comes on again part problem needs replacing which seems to be rather expensive. Look forward to any information anyone can give. Thanks and regards

sniper7584

Hey, I found the onwers manual for the Identity alarm system. It came on my truck when I bought it and have been looking for it, and I know others have tried to find information on it. I finally found it on the FCC website. Here is the link straight to the manual..
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/prod/oet/forms/blobs/retrieve.cgi?attachment_id=316369- - &native_or_pdf=pdf

Hope this helps, I know it helped me understand what it is.

depechemfan

I took my Vue into a Firestone to get serviced this past weekend &
when they attempted to do an engine diagnostic the service light then
the service engine light came on & the gages began to go swirly. For
example, the gas gage would go from a half a tank (which is how much
gas I had in the tank) to empty & back to half full. The temp gage,
speedometer & rpm gages did the same thing. According to the tech, the
reading they were attempting to get could not get a solid connection
to the internal computer and suggested that I take the vehicle to a
electrical mechanic. I had read a few of your posts similar to my
issue where other owners had a body control module or BCM issue. Could
this possibly be the same issue? If so, any idea what the potential cost could be and how long I can drive the car while the gages are going nuts?

obyone

I would take the car to another independent mechanic or the dealer. Firestone is a great place for tires, would definitely get a second opinion on what you described as it doesn't seem normal and could be attributed to something they did.

weaz4200

Need help. My cousins has a 95 Pontiac firebird (3.4) Auto trans. 185k miles... He drives it part time and his father drives it as well. He has had a problem with the ABS, intermittently... He states that he experienced the problems after driving for a longer periods of time... This is what he says he experiences....

1) Brake pedal gets softer
2) Hears a grinding noise (like metal on concrete)
3) Intermittent ABS Inop light..

He took it to a shop and they said he needs an ABS Module... I spoke with the guy and he said that he got the intermittent ABS problem to occur when pulling a sharper corner into a parking spot.
Im not saying i dont believe them, im just curious how to make sure thats what it is? Im in an autos program and i took it to school.

Hooked it up to a scanner and found no codes. Took it for a drive and tried to get the ABS Inop light to kick on... No luck. How do i find out what the problem is?... I dont want him to injure himself or anyone else...

kiawah

Next time you find the pedal getting softer, check to see whether one of the brakes are extremely hot. Be careful to not touch the rotor, feel the warmth giving off. You may even be able to smell the brakes, they give off a distinctive odor when overheated.

You may have a caliper which is hanging up, where the piston is not 'floating' back and releasing. This is usually caused by corrosion in the piston. If this is the case, then the rotor could be getting hot and expanding, to the point that it is expanding and coming in contact with the housing and rubbing.

You may also notice pulsating brake pedal, which is indicative of a warped rotor (caused by the heat).

If you have this set of symptoms, then the fix is to replace the calipers (so that the piston floats back freely), pads (undoubtedly worn)), and rotors (warped).

Mr_Shiftright

His school might also have a tool called a pyrometer, a non-contact thermal measuring tool. That way he could quickly check all rotors/drums.

kiawah

Yes, I picked one up at harbor freight last year. My kids check for window drafts

Handy little device, but not something the typical homeowner/shade tree mechanic would bother to have.

srs_49

Black and Decker makes a hand held IR thermometer that goes for around $50.

cadowner

I have a Cadillac Seville STS 2001 with 104K miles. The Air Conditioner in my car sometimes works and then mostly it does not. When I turn On the A/C there in no air-flow at all from the front vents, even when I manually turn up the fan speed. I have tried all combination of temperature and fan settings, but still no air flows from the vents. At that time, it seems like the vent blower fan has stopped functioning (or there is problem with the air conditioner compressor/mechanism/component itself?). However, while the front vents are “dead”, the Rear-vent for the Back-seat has air-flow, though it does not give cold air.

Then sometimes the A/C starts working normally by itself giving out cool air-flow from all the front vents and also from the back vent. Does anyone know what the problem could be, and how to fix it? I’ll appreciate your feedback.

Thanks!

kiawah

When the fan is NOT working from the A/C, if you shift it to Heater mode does the fan also NOT work? If so, it's probably the resistor bank that's in the blower plenum right next to the blower squirrel cage. It's purpose is to drop the voltage down so the blower motor has different speeds. They get overheated and burn up.

dtsvwfan

1996 Volkswagen jetta
4 cylinder 2.0
auto
194,400k
engine code PO768, says it may be shift solenoid "d". First it was winding out in the gears, it would shift smooth but i would have to let off the gas to shift @ the correct rpm. Now im stuck i believe in 3rd gear. is this a cheap and easy repair, or do i need to bend over?
please anybody have any advice for someone who is broke and not alot of mechanical experiance.

jhayes9835

I have a 1996 Infiniti I 30. I recently had the engine replaced with a used engine. I replaced the engine because of blown head gaskets.
After the engine was replaced, it is very hard to start. When it eventually starts, the engine runs great. The used engine started and ran great before it was installed into my car.
The mechanic has checked all of the sensors, (MAF, crank, etc) checked the wire harness for breaks or frays, checked the ignition switch, and checked the computer. Everything he has checked was fine.
I am at a loss. The engine turns over but will not catch. When the engine turns over you can hear it cough or backfire, but will not start.
The coils are only 8 months old. I think he used the injectors that were in the used engine.
He did say that the ignition key has to be in a certain position to get spark to the coils. When he checked the ignition switch, he got a new one and just plugged it in to the connector and used a screw driver to turn it on. Would the key assembly make a difference?
Any ideas? What else can we look at to solve this problem?

Any ideas? What else can we look at to solve this problem?

qbrozen

Well, since stuck in a gear and no other problems reported, it does sound like a selenoid problem. However, any trans work is never cheap and easy. There is still a good bit of labor involved. My guess is more than a 200k mile Jetta is worth.

qbrozen

If he has checked and it is getting both fuel and spark from the first turn of the key, I would look to the plugs. Did he put new ones in when he replaced the engine? If so, were they OEM plugs and were they gapped properly? I know, for example, my volvos do NOT like aftermarket plugs. It will take longer than usual to turn over. Switching back to OEM plugs from the dealer fixes the problem.

Mr_Shiftright

Did he check fuel pressure on the fuel rail at first start up? A bad fuel pressure regulator forces the fuel pump to re-pressurize the rail every time you start up, if the car hasn't been started for a little bit (fuel pressure drains off).

jhayes9835

I have a 1996 Infiniti I 30. I recently had the engine replaced with a used engine. I replaced the engine because of blown head gaskets.
After the engine was replaced, it is very hard to start. When it eventually starts, the engine runs great. The used engine started and ran great before it was installed into my car.
The mechanic has checked all of the sensors, (MAF, crank, etc) checked the wire harness for breaks or frays, checked the ignition switch, and checked the computer. Everything he has checked was fine.
I am at a loss. The engine turns over but will not catch. When the engine turns over you can hear it cough or backfire, but will not start.
The coils are only 8 months old. I think he used the injectors that were in the used engine.
He did say that the ignition key has to be in a certain position to get spark to the coils. When he checked the ignition switch, he got a new one and just plugged it in to the connector and used a screw driver to turn it on. Would the key assembly make a difference?
They are doing something with the camshaft sensor today.
Any ideas? What else can we look at to solve this problem?

jhayes9835

They can get the car started sometimes and it runs great. When they shut it off, back to square one, hard start.

rlelina

I've gone to AutoZone and tried all their different kinds of rearview mirror adhesive kits (3 of them). I also bought a new replacement mirror after the 1st try. I would attach the metal button as the instruction says then leave it alone for about a day before I screw in the mirror. Since I'm the only one driving the car, I never readjust the mirror again. After about a week, it falls off again.

Is there a professional grade adhesive/kit I could use? Can I use super glue that bonds metal and glass instead? Please recommend something. Thanks.

imidazol97

Do they tell you how to clean the glass before applying the adhesive? Alcohol? Acetone?

srs_49

To piggyback on what imidazol97 said...

I've found the rear view mirror adhesive kits to work pretty good. Key, however, is proper surface preparation. Both surfaces need to be flat and clean, with no residue of the old adhesive on either surface.

If that still doesn't work, you might want to try an industrial structural adhesive that's formulated for bonding glass and metal. Most are 2-part epoxies. Try the web sites for Dow or 3M, or just do a google search on "structural adhesives glass"

Mr_Shiftright

If you use the 2-part epoxies, remember that this mirror is on *forever*, so double-check your positioning.

uautoknow

I just picked up a set of Monroe air shocks for my 98 Lincoln Nav.Looking for some assistance on replacing front air shocks . What is the best way to remove air line going into the OEM shock and reinstalling into the monroe's as well.

PS. I know most people like going OEM That being said ...
What's the consensus on using the monroe's up front instead of going OEM ?
I was just wondering if the ride would be close ?
Thank you.

rlelina

Yes, I've been cleaning the surface with alcohol first, then letting it dry very well before applying the activator. When I googled this, I read one person say that humidity may also be a factor. Here in North Texas it's been very humid lately. So I gave it another shot a couple of days ago in the late afternoon when the weather site says humidity is at its lowest. If that still doesn't work, I'll try the 2-part epoxy. Thanks.

srs_49

I don't think alcohol will dissolve the old adhesive. Alcohol works good a general purpose cleaner, for removing oils and that sort of stuff.

I've used fine sandpaper on the window and on the mirror hangar itself to clean off the old, dried adhesive. Maybe a razor blade.

imidazol97

>http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4202332

On removing old mirror and old adhesive.

Also, any chance the replacement glue you bought was from a place that does not sell much and the stuff was old. Some web articles claim the glue deteriorates with age; need a fresh kit.

jrolf

Ok In my 1997 Jimmy v-6 automatic I was having problems last year with none of the dash lights coming on I finally figured that out. Now I try to start it and it turns over but will not start so my dad was helping me try to figure it out and figured out it is not getting any spark. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the problem. :confuse: :sick:

jrolf

I got everything fixed except now I get no spark, so it still will not start. I don't know what to do with it anymore
:sick:

abourque

Can anyone help me out... I have a 2000 Mazda Millenia S 2.3 Miller cycle V6 engine with 110,000 and it is running like s--t. It runs hot everyonce in a while and when I'm on the highway driving aprx. 65 miles per hour it is sputting/missing/jerking- almost like gas isn't getting to where it needs to go. I went to a local shop and they ran codes and what showed up is P0115, P0431, P1790.. the guy told me he doesn't work on this car so I'm stuck... don't know what to do. any ideas what those codes mean? Also, TCS/OFF TCS light comes on every blue moon. Sometimes only TCS off, sometimes both.

kiawah

Find a different (better) repair shop.

Do a search on the internet with your year, make, model.

ECT sensor circuit, Left Bank sensor, TP Sensor open/short.

Has the car been tuned up lately?, or has no maintenance been done for 100K miles?

srs_49

The P0115 and P1790 could both be cause by broken/shorted wires or a connector not seated, corroded contacts, etc.

The P0431 has to do with the O2 sensor that's behind the cat. It's codes could be caused by the other 2 because, if the ECU thinks there is something wrong with a sensor, it may default to a safe/limp-home mode of operation until the problem is corrected. I would work of 0115 and 1790 first, then see if fixing the cause of those codes clear up the one related to the rear O2 sensor.

jaythepunk

I am a repoman / locksmith and i came across a vehicle that had this same system, the customer had lost their keys along with them with the "clickers" for this same type of system. The system is a really small plug and play sort of security device and i was able to find it in the under hood fuse box that had a fuse pulled and a random plug in its place with a red and black was was plugged into the fuse hole. I followed the wire and found the fuse and the rest of the system. it also had one wire hooked to the negative terminal to the battery. I confirmed this by hooking a jumper wire into the large red and white wires coming off of the back of the relay that was hooked up in this little mess of wires and the truck started. So i than followed the large red and white wire down to where they were spliced into the wire harness and clipped them out and hooked the wire they were hooked into back together and its all good now.

abourque

Thanks so much... I'm a female trying to figure this out on my own so thanks.. I have an uncle thats know a lil about vehicle but he is lost when it comes to this. Can you tell me where to look for these wires, connections, etc. If you can, if not no biggie. Thanks Again

abourque

I'd lie if I tell you yes are no. I'm recently going to a divorce and my husband took care of the vehicles. Probably not the last 30,000 miles so maybe that would help.

mbowen1989

Ok I'm going to assume that you got the 4.3L Vortec so heres my advice
I would check:
1. Rotor and Dis. Cap for cracks and wear.
2. Check to see if contact Points are clean as well.
3. Spark Plug Gap/ Check for Bad Plugs
4. Check for excessive resistance in Plug Wires with Ohm's Meter
5. Ignition Timing
6. Check to see if the Dis rotor turns when cranking the engine
7. Might be a Bad coil as well

tammyjb31

I've got a 2000 Mercury Mystique, 92000 mi, we've replaced fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, and it's sputtering REAL bad and doesn't stay running. Oh its a 4 cyl. Any ideas?

obyone

IAC, TPS, or MAF and not necessarily in that order.

At 10 years probably a combination of all three.