Got a Quick, Technical Question?

Mr_Shiftright

Qh well, had we known what you thought, we could have charged you more! :P

oregonboy

Qh well, had we known what you thought, we could have charged you more!

That's a good reason not to self-diagnose your car's problems when you take it to a repair shop, unless you are confident that you know what the problem is. :shades:

(I get no points for stating the obvious)

alternator

I'm am still trying to understand exactly how the Audiovox FMM100A FM Modulator system works.

It has a switch to disconnect the radio from the antenna. Then your MP3 player's signal goes to the modular which I presume broadcasts it to the radio without using the antenna at all. Does that sound right?

This is what I have found on the Internet:

"The vehicle antenna is cut off from the radio when the power is supplied to the FM modulator via Switch SW1" (this comes from the Audiovox installation guide)

"A wired FM modulator is wired directly in line with the radio’s antenna. This allows the modulator to interrupt the FM signal coming from the antenna. The signal is then sent through the antenna input on the radio (not transmitted wirelessly). This means no matter how strong the radio station is transmitting it will not interfere with the MP3 player"

"The Audiovox FMM100A FM modulator is a complete modulation system that allows you to add an external audio source with RCA outputs to you factory radio through the FM antenna. Can be used on either 89.1MHz or 88.7MHz FM frequencies giving you interference-free FM reception of your external audio device. Automatically disconnects vehicle's antenna whenever the FM modulator is in use, providing additional interference-free fidelity" (the "through the FM antenna" here is what confuses me)

burdawg

It sounds pretty straightforward to me. It has an internal switch that disconnects the normal antenna (what they refer to as the "FM" antenna) when it detects the presence of a signal on the rca inputs on the modulator. Those input signals are modulated onto the carrier signal you select, either 89.1MHz or 88.7MHz FM, and are then are applied through the normal antenna connection on the radio head like any other signal. While it's in use no other signal should be available on the radio except that one, unless you have some very strong transmitter close by that could radiate enough power to be detected by the tuner in the radio.
In this case it's not wirless like most of these things are, your vehicles antenna connects to the modulator and the modulator in turn connects to your radio's antenna input.
There's pros and cons with these. If the audio signal applied to the modulator through the rca jacks is to low in power it may not be detected and the internal switch won't work. A modulator lowers the sound quality due to noise and harmonics it generates. On the plus side, you shouldn't get any interference from adjacent channels or from stations that may happen be on those frequencies in your area.

dudette3

I hope this is the right place to post this question!
:
Vehicle2010 Ford Fusion
Engine: 4 cylinder 2.5L
Trans: Auto
Mileage: 6000 miles
Problem:

My car was impacted on the right rear side of the vehicle, when someone backed into the vehicle. My dad was driving the car, he indicated that it seemed like a hard impact and was loud, but did not see any visible damage to the vehicle. Upon returning to my home state, I did notice it seemed to drive a bit different (this was before he mentioned the accident to me), but was not sure if it was really different or if I had just been away from the car for awhile.

So the question I pose, should I put in a claim (we do have the insurance info for the person who hit our vehicle) and have someone inspect the vehicle? Or do you think if I can't see any visible damage on the vehicle, it's probably ok?

Thanks for any advice!!

Mr_Shiftright

Well if they hit the wheel they could have bent the rear axle or spindle. You might lay down on the ground and take a straight edge to the wheel at both sides (this is a right angle 90 degree type of metal ruler):



to see if the wheel is bent on one side. You stand it up with just one edge of the against the wheel and the other edge running outwards from the car at 90 degrees. This way, when you eyeball both sides (presuming the ground is level on both sides) you could see if one wheel is tilting away more from the edge of the ruler than the other side. That means BENT most likely.

Alternatively, you could ask your dealer to put the car on the alignment machine, but you'll have to pay for that---and if there is something bent, then you'd probably get a re-imburse when you make your claim.

I wouldn't call the insurance company until you are a) SURE there's some damage and b) SURE that it is major enough that you don't end up just paying your deductible and then having the insurance company kick in a small balance amount---thereby putting a claim on your record for a piddling some of money.

euphonium

Excellent advice regarding measuring the potential damage. Have it checked out by an alignment shop by all means.

As to the ramifications of presenting an insurance claim. Usually there is no premium penalty for non at fault crashes.

obyone

Since her Dad was driving the car, and assuming he has auto insurance, wouldn't the claim be subrogated to the Dad's insurance company?

burdawg

You should report it to the insurance company that the person that hit you gave you and tell them that you suspect there's some hidden damage since it doesn't drive the same now. A Fusion is a lightly built front wheel drive car and it wouldn't take much to knock the rear end out of alignment or possibly bend a rear suspension component. You don't need to report it to your own insurance since it's strictly a liability issue with the responsible party (the person that hit it). They will direct you how to proceed to have it inspected and any repairs done.
On the down side, if damage is found, it will probably go on the vehicle history report at your states DMV and will show as an incident on the vehicle history report.

burdawg

No. The insurance covers the car and any liability an authorized driver commits while using it. In this case though it's most likely a liability issue with the other driver though. Some policies cover the policy owner while driving other cars to some extent (like rentals) but that depends on the particular policy.

Mr_Shiftright

It wasn't clear to me if Dad actually recorded the other driver's info, or whether he "let them off the hook" when no damage was seen---so I didn't know which way to advise regarding insurance.

But I agree, the car must be checked out regardless.

euphonium

The main reason Liability insurance follows the car is that a licensed driver, not owning a car, can borrow another's car. Thus, when you loan your car out, you are also loaning your insurance as well.

deltheking

Hi,
I have an 04 Nissan and am having a problem with no acceleration or rather decreased acceleration. I step on the gas pedal and then it seems as if the engine is groaning and I have to press the gas pedal hard. Even after pressing the gas pedal,the engine struggles to accelerate and it appears as though it is towing a heavy load. I checked the revs and they are revving to a maximum of 3500 only and I can reach speeds of 55-60mph but it appears obvious that the engine is straining hard. :confuse:
I hope it is not the cat converter ?? Also,I do not have any CEL/SES light or any other codes.. I checked the tire pressure in all 4 tires. Please advise.

Thanks - you folks were very helpful when I had asked a question about Slip and TCS off lights that I had about 3 months ago and your diagnosis was pretty much on the ball - a camshaft sensor problem.
Hope I dont have any more problems with my Nissan ! And hoping that this problem is not serious ! :surprise:

marbren81

The indicator light on the dash blinks about 6-8 times and goes off. I've checked to make sure the bulbs are good, and they are. The relay is good and I've changed the DRL resistor. The only thing left that I can think of is a bad ground. But where should I look? Any ideas?

kiawah

Turn your high beams on, and verify that both of your high beam bulbs are working correctly.

I don't have schematics for your vehicle, but many vehicles achieve DRL by switching the wiring of the high beams from being powered in parrallel (12 volts to each bulb), to being wired in series (effectively 6 volts on each bulb). The current runs thru the first bulb, and then thru the second bulb. If either of the bulbs are burnt out, then neither will work.

The way this switching is achieved, is typically with 2-3 relays. If the bulbs prove to be okay, then I would look to see if you have more than the one DRL relay that you found.

wealthwarranty

Sure sounds like the cat to me, or some kind of blockage inside exhaust, I had pipe get crushed once on Land Rover when rock climbing and it did the same thing you are describing, engine just has no power. If you floor it in neutral, does it take time to get up to 5K RPM as example.

Good luck,
NanoDetonator.com

deltheking

Ok,So what would be the "limp mode'? This problem is supposed to be the Limp mode..Dont know what it is?? Any info?? Thanks.

srs_49

Limp mode is a mode built into the ECU (Engine Control Unit) and/or the TCM that allows you to limp home if the ECU thinks something is really amiss. It's there to let you pull off the highway, maybe get to a service station or back home, but that's it. Think of it as a substitute for having the engine shut down entirely and thus needing a tow.

tsatran

i recently had my timing belt changed on my 2001 accord, 4 cylinder, automatic with 95,000 miles. A few days later my engine light came on and now my mechanic is saying that i need to replace my 02 sensor. the car is currently running a little rough as well. Is there anything that could have occurred during this repair, or is this just a coincidence?

deltheking

Is resetting the ECU a solution to this? Or is it just a temporary fix and delaying the inevitable.
I had a camshaft sensor installed by the dealer 2 months back for a jerky acceleration and stalling and it drove fine for 300 miles and now this. Are these 2 events related--Can the camshaft installation somehow have caused this??

srs_49

Resetting the ECU is probably just a temporary fix. Ya gotta correct whatever is causing the car to go to limp mode. A bad camshaft sensor could cause the problem, but I would sort of doubt it if that was replaced recently.

Interesting that it's not setting the CEL. Almost anything that's emission related will set the CEL with the appropriate code stored.

baethke

I have a 97 Olds cutlass sup with the 3100 and 4T60E trans. It has 116k on it. My problem is it drops out of overdrive on flat surfaces or in and out during gradual accel. I drive it 145 miles a day. it happens with cruise on and off but wont do it every day. It just drops out and rpms go up then shifts back. but it will happen several times in a minute then stop for awhile. only does it at i say 45+ mph

jrolf

My dad just bought a 2001 2.0 liter vw bug and he wanted to put a new timing belt on it. Well we put the timing belt on had everything back on and started it up, it ran for about 20 seconds then it kind of clunked and died. we took the belt back off and put the timing all back to top dead center, put it all back together again now it tries to turn over but it is like it is hitting on something. Could timing be 360 out?? Can anyone help me please. :confuse: :sick:

kiawah

Well 'clunking' is usually NOT a good noise.

Don't know the VW engine, but you can pull the plugs and try to turn the engine over with a wrench to see if it will turn. If it turns, you can try a compression check in all the cylinders.

The crankshaft turns 720 degrees for each 360 degrees of the camshaft, so yes you could have it out of time. On one time that the piston comes up the fuel is getting compressed and ignited by the spark plug, the next time the piston comes up the exhaust valve opens to exhaust, and then the intake valve opens to intake the next charge of fuel. So the crankshaft turns twice, for each turn of the camshaft. You need to be firing the spark plug when the valves are closed (gas compressed), not when the valves are opening/shutting.

jrolf

Ok I will give that a try thank you

tomcatman

Problem is simple. Hit the turn signal and the car dies whether driving or in park. Everything works when you try to restart it but whatever short is created when you engage the signal drains the battery and it won't start without a jump.

I believe I am looking at replacing the neutral safety switch, signal switch, or the entire steering column wiring harness. Any thoughts? :shades:

kiawah

Do you really think it is draining the battery?

Or, perhaps shorting against a wire as part of the ignition switch.

You might want to find the wire from the ignition switch, and hang a voltmeter on it to see what it does when you turn the signal on.

imidazol97

I recall someone with an H-body having the same symptoms in another forum on the internet. I can't recall for sure the cure, but I think it was related to the alternator. I can't recall whether it was just replacing the alternator or if there was something about a cable connecting the alternator to the battery.

burdawg

Hmmm..... Did you turn the engine crankshaft or camshaft without the belt on? On an interference engine it's not advised, since you can easily bend a valve. Also, what type of tensioner does it have? Hydraulic? If so, did you replace it? By your description, it sounds like the belt either lost tension and slipped or some mechanical interference caused it to slip. Either way, not good. I think if you do a compression test you may not be happy with the results.

diva44

2003 C240 mercedez 6 cylinder, auto, 112k
Problem: How do you count the cylinders? I've replaced spark plugs, boots, and wires but cylinders are still backfiring. Believe it may be the coil packs causing the problem.
Idles smoothly but sputters and cuts off when the gas is accelerated.

Mr_Shiftright

FACING VEHICLE

3 6
2 5
1 4

Firing Order:

1-4-3-6-2-5-

obyone

I've replaced spark plugs, boots, and wires but cylinders are still backfiring.

It was back firing before you changed the plugs and wires?

puddles1976

I have a 2003 (mfg. 9/02) Ranger with a 3.0 Auto, Multiport fuel injection. My question is this: It starts fine, idles smooth until about 3000 RPM then the fun begins. At 3000, the engine begins to misfire, shudder, and when it reaches 3200 RPM it will accelerate no further. First thing that comes to mind is it acts like it has a Governor on it. I can have 1/4 pedal left and it flat out will not climb above 3200. I've changed the fuel filter, put my scanner on it (it is not throwing any codes) and can find nothing unusual going on. My gut is thinking bad TPS Sensor, but I'm not certain. Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Dale

obyone

I had the same truck. There is a rev limiter to protect the engine from over revving while parked. After using some seafoam and trying to rev the engine I found it to stutter and miss thought it had to do with the seafoam. Found out later from another owner that it has a rev limiter.

euphonium

Try spray cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor carefully.

puddles1976

euphonium:
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll see if it does it.

puddles1976

Thanks for the comment about the rev limiter. I'm going to take it out in the morning and if the truck acts up on the road, I'm going to try and clean the Mass Air Flow sensor as euphonium suggested.

obyone

If you're going to clean the MAF, you may as well clean the throttle body at the same time. :shades:

puddles1976

This morning I drove it an purposefully forced the engine above 3000 RPM while driving. Acted fine until engine reached 2500 or so. At 2650 the Check Engine light started blinking while I was driving it, but when I slowed down to turn, it went out. Then I went on the open road and gave it some gas to put it under some real time stress (such as quick takeoff, not trying to peel out or anything). The light re appeared blinking again, but went out when I pulled back in the yard. I put the Scanner back on it and it still said no codes present, but when looking up snapshot history, it showed a misfire on #5 cyl. @ 2650 RPM. Idle is now a bit rough. Going to pull Plug on #5 and see if that's it. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for keeping up with me.
Dale

kiawah

If it's on one cylinder like you have, suspect things like bad plug, bad wire, bad coil pack, or intake manifold gasket on that cylinder.

If it was on multiple cylinders, then would suspect fuel, fuel delivery, MAP, or one of the other sensors like cam or crank.

puddles1976

I pulled #5, gapped at .055, dry plug, but looks like it's been in for years. Type AGSF 32FM. It's a Platinum plug, Truck has seen only Ford Service before I got it. Truck has 143k on it.

qbrozen

I'll throw kind of a wild card in here. O2 sensor.
Although, yes, it should give you a code ... but anything is possible.
My bimmer showed this same symptom of the code going off and on while driving under different circumstances. O2 sensor was the culprit.

kiawah

O2 sensor could cause some issues, but would expect to see it pop an error code for the sensor, and would also expect it to be errors across the board on different cylinders. With just one cylinder, I would suspect it's much more isolated to something with that cylinder.

142K on a set of plugs....time for a tuneup.

diva44

2003 Merecedes Benz C 240
6 Cylinder, Auto, 112k

Problem: I need to know where is the Fuel Filter located in order to change it out.

Mr_Shiftright

The fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator is mounted behind the left fuel tank chamber.

puddles1976

OK, Previous owner mentioned present plugs were installed 40k ago, they are supposed to be 100k Platinums. Re gapped plug, put fuel cleaner in the tank and took for a drive. The Check Engine light popped back on and this time stayed on and did not shut off. When I put my scanner on it, the code was misfire on #5 once again, but mentioned $10 Engine Controller in the readout. Could I have a bad Coil Pack? Wires are in fine shape, also changed with plugs. At idle it purrs right along.???

kiawah

Swap the coil pack with another cylinder. See if the problem moves and you now get errors on that cylinder. That would prove the coil pack is the problem or not.

puddles1976

Great idea. I'll do it and see if the light comes back on for the swapped cylinder. The engine has normal wear, so I don't see anything weird under the hood. OOPS! I just realized it's not a modular coil pack, so I'll call a buddy of mine and see if he's got one to sub in and test it.
Thanks for the feedback!

etta2

Has anyone found a solution to this problem yet? I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban w/the same "Identity" fobs with the number FCC ID QY7ADM625 on back. The battery is dead on one of the fobs, and the other doesn't seem much stronger. Soon I will not be able to start my vehicle!

bolivar

Whats keeping you from opening the fob up and replacing the battery?