Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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oh and ive told that it might be my clutch sensor relay , or my brake light switch
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As for as ethanol, it wont cause stalling or pre ignition because ethanol has a higher octane rating than gasoline. Most fuels you buy these days are E10 anyway
(10% ethanol).
I assume your have a noticeable loss of power?
Hope this helps
:sick:
I'd appreciate any advice anyone might provide to help me diagnose the problem. Thank you.
A switch monitors the brake pressure between the two pairs of lines. If it sees much lower pressure in one line, it turns the 'Brake' light on.
You probably did lose pressure in one pair of the system. This will cause exactly the symptoms you described. Low brake pedal and hard pedal.
Since you say the master cylinder appeared full of fluid, the problem is probably inside the master cylinder. The piston inside also has two sections, to generate pressure to the two sections, and one of the sections generating pressure has probably failed.
You need a shop that does good brake work. And if you attempt to drive the car there, be very, very careful. You probably have effectly much less than half braking capacity left in the car. And if the other side of the master cylinder piston fails, you will have no brakes.
When I pulled over and tried to start it up again, it took a few seconds to start but eventually did turn over without any additional assistance (didn't pump the gas). I managed to avoid the stalling on the way home by shifting into neutral and revving the engine as I coasted.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? I'm short on cash after just moving to a new state, but I have a mechanic friend that could lend a hand if I can diagnose the problem. Thanks!
When was the last time it had a tune up (plugs and wires replaced)?
Not having enough info to go on, I'd say start with the fuel filter.
Why don't you have your mechanic friend look at your vehicle and take it for a spin. He'll see the symptoms first hand, and could help figure out what is wrong.
He's coming over later tonight, I was interested to see if anyone could offer any starting points. Also, vehicle history is unfortunately unavailable at this time.
There wasn't a ton we could do with the wrong tools tonight, but we took a look at the air filter, and it looks perfect. We also took the front three spark plugs out, they were overtightened and there was a bunch of rubble in the housing but they weren't the real problem.
I turned the car on and let it idle in the driveway with the hood open. It ran fine for a few seconds, then we heard a clapping noise coming from the area of the back three spark plugs, exactly how it sounded when it died before. We also smelled gas under the hood.
We're going to take a look at/replace the back three spark plugs tomorrow once we have daylight and the right tools. Next we'll look at the fuel filter, it looks like it shouldn't be that hard to take out. Hopefully if we can tackle this in order of simplicity and affordability we'll be able to diagnose the problem. Thanks for the help, all! I'll keep you posted.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If not, check the battery cables at the battery, especially if you have the double or triple connectors on the positive cable. Look for corrosion in between them.
Check the connections at the starter to be sure they are clean and tight.
As for the battery testing bad or good, the stores are a better source of info. Perhaps with a bad or corroded connection at the battery the charging wasn't working right?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Per Owners manual: It has the PASS-Key(Personalized Automotive Security System).. "a passive theft-deterrent system. A resistor pellet in the ignition key senses when someone is using the wrong key, it shuts down the vehicles starter and fuel system for about 3 minutes."
Sounds like that may be it. It did restart when I slowly inserted and wiggled the key a bit after roughly 10 minutes.
The dashboard lights were lit solid when this happened, didn't really look at it, so the security light could have been flashing and I didn't notice. So, this very well could have been the problem.
The manual does say to try the other ignition key if the first one isn't working.... and the key must be clean and dry. So, I may switch ignition keys with my wife who has the second set and it is seldom used. Thanks. :shades:
You might have corrosion between terminals on the positive battery cables. I had that happen.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
[Believe, the Blower Motor is near the glove-compartment : how do I exactly locate it and open it?].
Thanks for your help.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Does it often start working after you hit a bump in the road that vibrates the car?
The cover under the dash comes off with a few screws and a little care. The HVAC box probably has the blower motor held in with three screws. There is a rubber tube that connects to give air to the rotor portion of the motor and there is a snap together electrical connector.
Replacement blower motors about $139 - 149 at Autozone. Check on website for which stores have in stock or call your local store and ask if other stores in the area have them in stock. Autozone was the only big box that kept blower for my leSabre (similar vehicle) while others wanted to special order. But I did have to go across town to pick up at another store. They would have transferred it or special ordered if I wanted to wait.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Besides the obvious where the a/c blows warm, the unit will also cycle frequently when low. By cycling I mean it will engage and disengage the compressor with a loud click in the engine compartment with the engine running.
It sits right on top of the fan, I would assume the arrow would point toward the fan and the fan would always draw filtered air in as opposed to blowing out toward the filter? It's a drum type fan, they must draw air in at the center and blow it outward?
That's the way I installed it, thanks in advance for replies.
I haven't pulled a filter out to check the markings on it, but I would have thought it the other way and the arrow showing the air flow much like a house furnace filter. Outside air coming in, gets filtered, fan distributes it.
OP, does the owners manual tell you which way it goes?
And yes, in a squirrel cage blower, the air enters at the center of the fan, and gets blown outward thru the blades when it spins.
I went out and pulled out the filter in the Camry, and checked the owners manual as well.
The removable door on the filter case, has an arrow which points up and says up.
The filter as an arrow up. Manual says up.
The AC fuse is #16.
Compressor Clutch Engagement
On Golf/Jetta and new Beetles, current to the A/C Compressor Clutch -N25- is supplied by the Coolant Fan Control Module -J293-.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------
293 Coolant Fan Control (FC) Control Module
* In engine compartment, bottom, to left of radiator
When I look at the Owners’ Manual for the maintenance schedule it says:
- Inspect the manual transaxle every 24KM or replace at 96KM in severe driving conditions. Inspect the automatic transaxle every 12 KM but replace at 184,000 KM (or 84 months) or 48,000 KM in severe driving conditions.
- Inspect the Power Steering Pump, Belt and hoses every 24 months
- I do see an entry for “fuel filter”, which is to be replaced at 42 months and another for “fuel lines, fuel hoses, and connections’, which is to be inspected every 24K.
I’ve seen a few sites that says doing a transmission flush at 48K is good, so I’ll proceed with that. However, what about the fuel injector and power steering service?
- Should I wait until 42 months before I do the fuel injector service?
- Is the power steering service necessary?
- Am I better to follow the Owner’s Manual or the Dealership (I’m not sure they have my best interest in mind, especially in this economy)?
Thanks in advance.
Hope this helps,
Mike
I wouldn't do any of these at what looks like about 32,000 MILES. The car is about 3 years old and you appear to be driving about 10-12,000 miles a year which is about 'normal'.
I don't know much about Canada, but I think a lot of dealerships will say their 'local' conditions are 'severe'. But think about it, the whole world can't be 'severe' or the auto manufactors would just have one maintenance schedule, the 'severe' one.
Modern gasoline, especially if you buy from 'name brand' stations, have all the fuel system cleaners that you need, so you don't need injector service.
You've got another 100,000 km before your auto transmission is to be serviced (or after 7 years).
Unless the power steering leaks, it should last the life of the car.
Save your money. Follow the auto's recommended schedules.
Some autos just have the control computer set a message if the coolant temp goes too high, over the max expected, but under the high temp where it will start turning on other messages.
COUGAR TOPIC
As strange as it seems, I think that symbol is the low coolant light but I'm not sure.
I wonder if it would go off if you had air in the cooling system. Was any coolant added recently, or any drained and re-filled? It's possible the system wasn't bled properly.