i have two issues with my car. the first porblem is that when my car gets up to normal tempture its starts to idel funny the idel gauge goes up and down between the 1 and 2 markes, but this only happens when i put the car in park and neutral.
and my second problem is my gas gauge dose not work it always shows that i have no gas . even when i just filled up the car
any advice on what going on would be much help to me.
My engine idles, cold, without oil light flicker. All remaining engine idles cause the flicker. The engine uses no oil, the sensor was replaced with no change. Any ideas? Ron
You are going to have to have a shop put a manual oil pressure gauge onto the car to accurately check the oil pressure. This way, it can be checked both at idle and with the engine speeded up. A good shop should also have manuals which show what the pressure should be at various rpm's.
If the car is actually having a very low oil pressure at idle, this is not a good thing. If the oil pressure is only marginally low, you might get some more miles out of the motor by using a somewhat 'thicker' oil (heaver weight) that is usually recommended.
With only 65,000 miles, modern engines should not be showing low oil pressure.
Has this car been abused in the past? Not having the oil changed at regular intervals? Overheated? Run with low oil levels. Driven to high rpms?
I'd like to add to that excellent advice, that if you do get a low hot reading of under 5 PSI using a manual oil gauge, you will have to at least remove the oil pan and look for trouble. You might have a clogged or loose oil pump pickup tube, or a clogged oil screen at the pickup tube, or a completely worn oil pump. However, I would caution you that the oil pump itself does not make oil pressure---it just pushes it to areas where the pressure is created (the clearances in the area of the engine bearings).
Hi all I need some help here . had the flashers going and drained the batter , had the kid hook up the spare battier he did it backwards !! now i got nothing and cant find the fuze ???? its a 2007 gmc serria !! looked at both fuze boxs on the drivers side the one in the cab on the side and the one under the hood !! thanks for any help !! where to look ??John
Can we just say one thing and get it on the table? KEEP JUMPER CABLES AWAY FROM ANY MODERN CAR!!
Only in the most dire of emergencies would I recommend this anymore. And if you HAVE to do this, make sure the donor car's negative cable is the last to be attached, to a frame member.
Regarding the dead battery car, I understand the Neg cable should be attached to a metal part, other than the Neg post of the dead battery. I forget why the donor's Neg can't be attached to the Neg post of the donor battery. Appreciate your reply.
Both for fire hazard and current surge. I'm hearing more and more about damage to modern cars done simply by jump starting---even jump-starting correctly. I suspect in a few more years this procedure will be forbidden or severely discouraged by automakers. Not sure what that means for AAA, but oh well.
I understand there are "intelligent" battery cables out there, but I don't know much about them at this point. Perhaps this is the way AAA and car owners will cope with this issue in the future.
they don't use cables anymore. They all carry those portable battery boxes. IIRC, one cable to the battery, and I guess a ground? Unless that is built in.
If you can't jump, are you supposed to replace the battery any time it goes dead? That seems ridiculous.
All batteries should come with that little hidden reserve that one model has 9something where you turn a switch, and it uses the "hidden" juice to start the car)
yes I've seen those "batteries within batteries". Seems like a good idea.
Also those portable battery packs seem safer, since they aren't hooked up to another car's alternator that's pumping out extra juice. That's what I use. I threw away my jumper cables.
The reason I suggest that the last cable to be attached is the donor car's negative frame side, is that the jumper (meaning me) can control the entire situation, and is also away from either battery in case of explosion.
You don't want to be near an exploding battery---this is a very nasty business.
The danger is the spark that occurs when the final connection is made. Batteries can accumulate hydrogen gas. A spark occurring near the battery (like at the negative post), can ignite the hydrogen and make the battery go BOOM.... or so I've heard.
You want the last connection to made far away from a battery, so that any sparks do not set off any hydrogen gas that may have out gassed from the battery,
My brother in law has a 2004 Acura RL and when he pushes the throttle the engine or somewhere there makes a clicking noise, it only happens when the gas is being pushed and no other time. ALso, when accelerating really fast, it doesnt make that clicking noise.
I don't know what a "mare's nest" is, but usually these type of things are imported in containers and resold on the American market by local distributors. Even so, the prices being dirt cheap are an indicator of how cheap manufacturing is in China, and why we can't compete. Sounds kind of like Japan used to be, right? I have found though that most of these things aren't of any quality and are usually not worth much more than you pay, if even that.
Cheap, yes, but don't forget to test the paint for lead once you receive it.
To stay on topic, a friend of mine asked me when should she replace her timing belt. I asked her which car. She tells me hers of course a '99 C5. Told her she didn't have a timing belt but rather a timing chain so no problem. Then she asked, "if a timing chain fails will it leave me stranded?".
Long story short, her car just turned 10 years old and hit 100K miles. She asked when should she change her timing chain as being stranded is not an option. Needless to say she didn't like my reply as I told her to trade it on a C6.
Basic symptom is with foot off the accelerator vehicle continues to roll along at 40 MPH (or maybe 50) on a flat road without slowing down. Kind of like it thinks you still have your foot on the gas. Not a big deal on flat road, but going downhill with a police officer coming toward you, well I made a $125 donation to the state of Vermont. It has happened twice, once late lat winter on a trip, and a last week. It resolved itself after I was pulled over and restarted it and hasn't returned. No ce/ses lights or anything and haven't had it checked yet for codes (and may not be easily re-creatable gieven history). I am thinking it may be Throttle position sensor issue, any other ideas?
Or maybe a physical problem. Check the current topic of news - the floor mat is messing with the accelator pedel.
Or the cable under the hood is kinked.
Some higher milage cars can actually build up crud on the throttle valve causing it to not close. Take off the intake tube and get a toothbrush and electrical/carb cleaner and lots of rags or paper towels and clean that butterfly valve up, especially around the edges front and back. If this is the problem you should be able to see the crud built up.
> but going downhill with a police officer coming toward you,
The brake pedal would have slowed the car...
I think Bolivar is spot on with the throttle plate gummed up theory. If you're above 45 the trans may be in 4th so a slight throttle opening will keep the engine pulling lightly and hold speed. BUT usually the throttle plate having gum around it is felt when starting the car. As things cool the throttle body shrinks and the throttle plate shrinks less with a different coefficient of expansion and the first time you try to move the cold throttle plate after starting it is stuck in place with the gum filling in the clearance. So the movement when it lets go gives too much gas--not good if you're in gear.
But your car may have the problem which is oily goop from the engine sump area condensing in the upper parts after being shut off.
If you do it yourself, the ideal way is to take off the whole throttle body, remove MAF and Idle Air control and clean. Then reassemble with a fresh gasket where it butts up against the upper intake manifold.
The end of the throttle body has a honeycomb on it which is held in by a spring clip around the circumference. It's very fragile to remove. Use a wood stick to hold towel or cloth and use air intake cleaner on the cloth and rub. I don't recommend spraying it in. A toothbrush or other plastic brush may soften around the bristles and lose them inside due to the solvent. (Ask how I know.)
A mechanical binding should be noticed if you take off the beauty cover on the motor and move the linkage yourself as a way of checking for cable binding. You might be able to feel the cold friction I mentioned earlier when you first move the throttle plate as a way of verifying the oil gunk is the problem.
If I install a switch that would allow me to temporarily disconnect my antenna from my car radio (to cut off most of the radio signals from getting to the radio), will the sort of FM transmitters that plug into cigarette lighters work better ?
Or are those FM transmitters dependent upon the antenna being connected to the radio ?
I assumed that my mp3 player signal would pass to the radio via the FM transmitter wire connected to the cigarette lighter, sort of like the workaround Audiovox device----see http://www.cartoys.com/Default.cfm/p/Rf_Modulator_FMM100a/
I thought the wire connecting my mp3 player to the cigarette lighter socket would be an adequate antenna for the radio to receive the FM Modulator signals.
Your MP3 'player' is also a FM broadcast radio station. It send an FM signal out. A very, very low power signal. You FM radio then uses its antenna to receive this signal. On some frequency set on the MP3 player. Or it might have several frequencies you can select from. You then tune your FM radio to this frequency, and it receives the signal (and music) being broadcast from your MP3 player.
So, your radio will definitely need to have its standard antenna installed and working.
Unless you have some kind of other strange MP3 player, this is how it's going to work. There are all kinds of 'players' that will work like this. Many of the add-on 6-CD 'players' are able to be easily installed, all they need is power (off a cigarette lighter for example) and they then broadcast the FM signal which is received through the stock radio installed in a car.
Yes, audio connoisseurs hate these type setups because they feel there are huge losses in music quality. But it gives a lot of flexibility in getting music into an auto.
My ears rate the CD capable of the highest fidelity followed by tape, and FM to be last.
If you are not a trained professional musician, it probably won't make any difference to you, but audiophiles can be irratated with boom boxes connected to high output amplifiers.
04 Buick Rendezvous CXL (V6, automatic, 93K. Problem: Driver's heated seat was working just fine then got REALLY hot (uncomfortably hot!) and then just quit. Light on control switch still lights up but the heat doesn't come on. Has anyone any ideas where to start on a DIY troubleshoot /fix. Can't afford another repair bill right now!!! Thanks to all who take the time to respond. Maybe I can help you someday.
The attempt at playing old records in the car was made by Chrysler Corp in the 50's when they installed a "45" record player in the glove compartment. I never heard one, but understand they worked best when the car was parked, at night, overlooking the city lights, up on Lovers Lane.
Is it okay to clean out a dirty engine (not mine) while doing a oil change (with a quart of transmission fluid to 4 quarts of oil). I've read the extra detergents in the trans fluid will clean off old deposits without harming the engine.
No I wouldn't do that. If someone wants to flush an engine, what I used to do was pour in 5 quarts of cheapo oil and run the engine at fast idle for 15-30 minutes and then dump it. Just as good and less risk. Then just recycle it. ATF is a *very* light oil.
A *little* ATF is good for freeing up sticking hydraulic lifters, but we're talkin a couple of cupfuls.
Has the valve cover been taken off for a look at the insides, and there is sludge there? Is it just known that the previous owners did not change the oil much at all?
Even if there was sludge, I would be afraid that a light, high-detergent additive would break sludge loose that would then jam in a lifter or some other small oil passage, then cause actual damage.
If I did suspect sludge, I think I would run a regular oil for about 1,000 miles and then change it. Run about 2,000 on the next oil change. Then go to a normal oil change, 4,000 miles or so.
Out of the blue my right signal (1999 Buick Regal LS) has gone from the normal, blink......blink..... blink, when engaged, to blinking something like 10 times faster, which is annoying. Any quick and easy fixes? Anything expensive or complicated and I'll just engage the signal manually.... one blink at a time. The left turn signal is still operating normally by the way. :confuse:
This usually is caused by a broken filament in a dual filament bulb, which then lays across and touches the other filament. This then draws way too much current than the normal bulb would draw, and the flasher responds by cycling much faster than normal.
The dual filament bulbs have two prongs on the side of the base, which are different 'depths'. Make sure you get the bulb in the correct way, when you put the new bulb in the socket. Match up the deep prong, with the deep groove in the socket, and the shallow prong, with the shallow prong in the socket.
Comments
the first porblem is that when my car gets up to normal tempture its starts to idel funny the idel gauge goes up and down between the 1 and 2 markes, but this only happens when i put the car in park and neutral.
and my second problem is my gas gauge dose not work it always shows that i have no gas . even when i just filled up the car
any advice on what going on would be much help to me.
Ron
If the car is actually having a very low oil pressure at idle, this is not a good thing. If the oil pressure is only marginally low, you might get some more miles out of the motor by using a somewhat 'thicker' oil (heaver weight) that is usually recommended.
With only 65,000 miles, modern engines should not be showing low oil pressure.
Has this car been abused in the past? Not having the oil changed at regular intervals? Overheated? Run with low oil levels. Driven to high rpms?
I need some help here . had the flashers going and drained the batter , had the kid hook up the spare battier he did it backwards !! now i got nothing and cant find the fuze ???? its a 2007 gmc serria !! looked at both fuze boxs on the drivers side the one in the cab on the side and the one under the hood !! thanks for any help !! where to look ??John
Did he get a large spark when he hooked up the battery?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
KEEP JUMPER CABLES AWAY FROM ANY MODERN CAR!!
Only in the most dire of emergencies would I recommend this anymore. And if you HAVE to do this, make sure the donor car's negative cable is the last to be attached, to a frame member.
I understand there are "intelligent" battery cables out there, but I don't know much about them at this point. Perhaps this is the way AAA and car owners will cope with this issue in the future.
starting with the "good" car, it was pos-pos, neg-ground (grounding on the Opel hood hinge)
are you saying now it should be pos-pos, ground-ground? Or ground on the good car, then neg on the dead one?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If you can't jump, are you supposed to replace the battery any time it goes dead? That seems ridiculous.
All batteries should come with that little hidden reserve that one model has 9something where you turn a switch, and it uses the "hidden" juice to start the car)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Also those portable battery packs seem safer, since they aren't hooked up to another car's alternator that's pumping out extra juice. That's what I use. I threw away my jumper cables.
The reason I suggest that the last cable to be attached is the donor car's negative frame side, is that the jumper (meaning me) can control the entire situation, and is also away from either battery in case of explosion.
You don't want to be near an exploding battery---this is a very nasty business.
Think of it as an acid-filled hand grenade made especially for you.
any ideas what it could be?
To stay on topic, a friend of mine asked me when should she replace her timing belt. I asked her which car. She tells me hers of course a '99 C5. Told her she didn't have a timing belt but rather a timing chain so no problem. Then she asked, "if a timing chain fails will it leave me stranded?".
Long story short, her car just turned 10 years old and hit 100K miles. She asked when should she change her timing chain as being stranded is not an option. Needless to say she didn't like my reply as I told her to trade it on a C6.
thank you
MrShiftright
Host
ce/ses lights or anything and haven't had it checked yet for codes (and may not be easily re-creatable gieven history). I am thinking it may be Throttle position sensor issue, any other ideas?
Or the cable under the hood is kinked.
Some higher milage cars can actually build up crud on the throttle valve causing it to not close. Take off the intake tube and get a toothbrush and electrical/carb cleaner and lots of rags or paper towels and clean that butterfly valve up, especially around the edges front and back. If this is the problem you should be able to see the crud built up.
The brake pedal would have slowed the car...
I think Bolivar is spot on with the throttle plate gummed up theory. If you're above 45 the trans may be in 4th so a slight throttle opening will keep the engine pulling lightly and hold speed. BUT usually the throttle plate having gum around it is felt when starting the car. As things cool the throttle body shrinks and the throttle plate shrinks less with a different coefficient of expansion and the first time you try to move the cold throttle plate after starting it is stuck in place with the gum filling in the clearance. So the movement when it lets go gives too much gas--not good if you're in gear.
But your car may have the problem which is oily goop from the engine sump area condensing in the upper parts after being shut off.
If you do it yourself, the ideal way is to take off the whole throttle body, remove MAF and Idle Air control and clean. Then reassemble with a fresh gasket where it butts up against the upper intake manifold.
The end of the throttle body has a honeycomb on it which is held in by a spring clip around the circumference. It's very fragile to remove. Use a wood stick to hold towel or cloth and use air intake cleaner on the cloth and rub. I don't recommend spraying it in. A toothbrush or other plastic brush may soften around the bristles and lose them inside due to the solvent. (Ask how I know.)
A mechanical binding should be noticed if you take off the beauty cover on the motor and move the linkage yourself as a way of checking for cable binding. You might be able to feel the cold friction I mentioned earlier when you first move the throttle plate as a way of verifying the oil gunk is the problem.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Or are those FM transmitters dependent upon the antenna being connected to the radio ?
Maybe not eh ?
When using a modulator to antenna connection, the highs in the frequency response go from 20,000 to about 12,000 and the lows are not enhanced either.
If you have a cheap ear, then it doesn't matter.
Your MP3 'player' is also a FM broadcast radio station. It send an FM signal out. A very, very low power signal. You FM radio then uses its antenna to receive this signal. On some frequency set on the MP3 player. Or it might have several frequencies you can select from. You then tune your FM radio to this frequency, and it receives the signal (and music) being broadcast from your MP3 player.
So, your radio will definitely need to have its standard antenna installed and working.
Unless you have some kind of other strange MP3 player, this is how it's going to work. There are all kinds of 'players' that will work like this. Many of the add-on 6-CD 'players' are able to be easily installed, all they need is power (off a cigarette lighter for example) and they then broadcast the FM signal which is received through the stock radio installed in a car.
Yes, audio connoisseurs hate these type setups because they feel there are huge losses in music quality. But it gives a lot of flexibility in getting music into an auto.
If you are not a trained professional musician, it probably won't make any difference to you, but audiophiles can be irratated with boom boxes connected to high output amplifiers.
Put an ohmeter on the seat heating element, see if it shows infinite resistance (an open), or some resistance.
The problem with sound systems in cars is that basically the car is a hostile environment for these things.
A *little* ATF is good for freeing up sticking hydraulic lifters, but we're talkin a couple of cupfuls.
Has the valve cover been taken off for a look at the insides, and there is sludge there? Is it just known that the previous owners did not change the oil much at all?
Even if there was sludge, I would be afraid that a light, high-detergent additive would break sludge loose that would then jam in a lifter or some other small oil passage, then cause actual damage.
If I did suspect sludge, I think I would run a regular oil for about 1,000 miles and then change it. Run about 2,000 on the next oil change. Then go to a normal oil change, 4,000 miles or so.
Not keeping up with proper oil change intervals... older engine.
This usually is caused by a broken filament in a dual filament bulb, which then lays across and touches the other filament. This then draws way too much current than the normal bulb would draw, and the flasher responds by cycling much faster than normal.
The dual filament bulbs have two prongs on the side of the base, which are different 'depths'. Make sure you get the bulb in the correct way, when you put the new bulb in the socket. Match up the deep prong, with the deep groove in the socket, and the shallow prong, with the shallow prong in the socket.