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the first porblem is that when my car gets up to normal tempture its starts to idel funny the idel gauge goes up and down between the 1 and 2 markes, but this only happens when i put the car in park and neutral.
and my second problem is my gas gauge dose not work it always shows that i have no gas . even when i just filled up the car
any advice on what going on would be much help to me.
Ron
If the car is actually having a very low oil pressure at idle, this is not a good thing. If the oil pressure is only marginally low, you might get some more miles out of the motor by using a somewhat 'thicker' oil (heaver weight) that is usually recommended.
With only 65,000 miles, modern engines should not be showing low oil pressure.
Has this car been abused in the past? Not having the oil changed at regular intervals? Overheated? Run with low oil levels. Driven to high rpms?
I need some help here . had the flashers going and drained the batter , had the kid hook up the spare battier he did it backwards !! now i got nothing and cant find the fuze ???? its a 2007 gmc serria !! looked at both fuze boxs on the drivers side the one in the cab on the side and the one under the hood !! thanks for any help !! where to look ??John
Did he get a large spark when he hooked up the battery?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
KEEP JUMPER CABLES AWAY FROM ANY MODERN CAR!!
Only in the most dire of emergencies would I recommend this anymore. And if you HAVE to do this, make sure the donor car's negative cable is the last to be attached, to a frame member.
I understand there are "intelligent" battery cables out there, but I don't know much about them at this point. Perhaps this is the way AAA and car owners will cope with this issue in the future.
starting with the "good" car, it was pos-pos, neg-ground (grounding on the Opel hood hinge)
are you saying now it should be pos-pos, ground-ground? Or ground on the good car, then neg on the dead one?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If you can't jump, are you supposed to replace the battery any time it goes dead? That seems ridiculous.
All batteries should come with that little hidden reserve that one model has 9something where you turn a switch, and it uses the "hidden" juice to start the car)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Also those portable battery packs seem safer, since they aren't hooked up to another car's alternator that's pumping out extra juice. That's what I use. I threw away my jumper cables.
The reason I suggest that the last cable to be attached is the donor car's negative frame side, is that the jumper (meaning me) can control the entire situation, and is also away from either battery in case of explosion.
You don't want to be near an exploding battery---this is a very nasty business.
Think of it as an acid-filled hand grenade made especially for you.
any ideas what it could be?
To stay on topic, a friend of mine asked me when should she replace her timing belt. I asked her which car. She tells me hers of course a '99 C5. Told her she didn't have a timing belt but rather a timing chain so no problem. Then she asked, "if a timing chain fails will it leave me stranded?".
Long story short, her car just turned 10 years old and hit 100K miles. She asked when should she change her timing chain as being stranded is not an option. Needless to say she didn't like my reply as I told her to trade it on a C6.
thank you
MrShiftright
Host
ce/ses lights or anything and haven't had it checked yet for codes (and may not be easily re-creatable gieven history). I am thinking it may be Throttle position sensor issue, any other ideas?
Or the cable under the hood is kinked.
Some higher milage cars can actually build up crud on the throttle valve causing it to not close. Take off the intake tube and get a toothbrush and electrical/carb cleaner and lots of rags or paper towels and clean that butterfly valve up, especially around the edges front and back. If this is the problem you should be able to see the crud built up.
The brake pedal would have slowed the car...
I think Bolivar is spot on with the throttle plate gummed up theory. If you're above 45 the trans may be in 4th so a slight throttle opening will keep the engine pulling lightly and hold speed. BUT usually the throttle plate having gum around it is felt when starting the car. As things cool the throttle body shrinks and the throttle plate shrinks less with a different coefficient of expansion and the first time you try to move the cold throttle plate after starting it is stuck in place with the gum filling in the clearance. So the movement when it lets go gives too much gas--not good if you're in gear.
But your car may have the problem which is oily goop from the engine sump area condensing in the upper parts after being shut off.
If you do it yourself, the ideal way is to take off the whole throttle body, remove MAF and Idle Air control and clean. Then reassemble with a fresh gasket where it butts up against the upper intake manifold.
The end of the throttle body has a honeycomb on it which is held in by a spring clip around the circumference. It's very fragile to remove. Use a wood stick to hold towel or cloth and use air intake cleaner on the cloth and rub. I don't recommend spraying it in. A toothbrush or other plastic brush may soften around the bristles and lose them inside due to the solvent. (Ask how I know.)
A mechanical binding should be noticed if you take off the beauty cover on the motor and move the linkage yourself as a way of checking for cable binding. You might be able to feel the cold friction I mentioned earlier when you first move the throttle plate as a way of verifying the oil gunk is the problem.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Or are those FM transmitters dependent upon the antenna being connected to the radio ?
Maybe not eh ?
When using a modulator to antenna connection, the highs in the frequency response go from 20,000 to about 12,000 and the lows are not enhanced either.
If you have a cheap ear, then it doesn't matter.
Your MP3 'player' is also a FM broadcast radio station. It send an FM signal out. A very, very low power signal. You FM radio then uses its antenna to receive this signal. On some frequency set on the MP3 player. Or it might have several frequencies you can select from. You then tune your FM radio to this frequency, and it receives the signal (and music) being broadcast from your MP3 player.
So, your radio will definitely need to have its standard antenna installed and working.
Unless you have some kind of other strange MP3 player, this is how it's going to work. There are all kinds of 'players' that will work like this. Many of the add-on 6-CD 'players' are able to be easily installed, all they need is power (off a cigarette lighter for example) and they then broadcast the FM signal which is received through the stock radio installed in a car.
Yes, audio connoisseurs hate these type setups because they feel there are huge losses in music quality. But it gives a lot of flexibility in getting music into an auto.
If you are not a trained professional musician, it probably won't make any difference to you, but audiophiles can be irratated with boom boxes connected to high output amplifiers.
Put an ohmeter on the seat heating element, see if it shows infinite resistance (an open), or some resistance.
The problem with sound systems in cars is that basically the car is a hostile environment for these things.
A *little* ATF is good for freeing up sticking hydraulic lifters, but we're talkin a couple of cupfuls.
Has the valve cover been taken off for a look at the insides, and there is sludge there? Is it just known that the previous owners did not change the oil much at all?
Even if there was sludge, I would be afraid that a light, high-detergent additive would break sludge loose that would then jam in a lifter or some other small oil passage, then cause actual damage.
If I did suspect sludge, I think I would run a regular oil for about 1,000 miles and then change it. Run about 2,000 on the next oil change. Then go to a normal oil change, 4,000 miles or so.
Not keeping up with proper oil change intervals... older engine.
This usually is caused by a broken filament in a dual filament bulb, which then lays across and touches the other filament. This then draws way too much current than the normal bulb would draw, and the flasher responds by cycling much faster than normal.
The dual filament bulbs have two prongs on the side of the base, which are different 'depths'. Make sure you get the bulb in the correct way, when you put the new bulb in the socket. Match up the deep prong, with the deep groove in the socket, and the shallow prong, with the shallow prong in the socket.