Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Check the link:
Tahoe/Suburban keyless remote
And it comes with programming instructions.
Then, if you still want a nice, new, shiny FOB, go out and buy one. At least by then you should have the old one working and can still can into and start your truck.
Thanks, need to save some cash....
- the window track is binding, and it's too hard for the motor to move the window up or down.
- the window motor itself is bad, or weak
- the switch on the door panel is bad, or has resistance
- the wiring supplying power to the door panel, has resistance, usually because it has flexed thousands of time from the door being opened and closed at the door joint over the years. This is typical of cars let's say 10 years old or grtr.
A digital voltmeter/ohm meter is necessary to trouble shoot and figure out which of these problems you have.
You'll need to open up the switch, and measure the voltage being supplied to the switch, and the voltage being supplied to the motors wiring when the switch is depressed. If you open the door panel, you can measure the voltage at the door window motor connector. If need be, you can even supply your own power from a wire to run the motor manually yourself. To check binding, you unbolt the window motor, and move the window up and down yourself, be careful not to cut/pinch yourself as the window moves.
Since you are reporting both a window and door lock problem, I would suspect a power supply problem first.
Also I put in 86 at that time as I was almost empty. I always put 91 premium and I should have put in 90 grade -- I totally forgot and put in 86...So will this harm the engine??
Agree with that. Don't forget to check the grounds too.
saying that I could use a maxima MAF that would cost 120. I'm no expert but it seems to work according to that page but I don't want to suggest it and have to go back and buy the 500 buck one too. If I buy the maxima one and try it but it doesn't work would i be able to return it? husband says no way but I need to save cash. Also would it affect the smog test? the cel is on and it will automatically fail because of it.
Thanks for your time and help! Awesome site!
To replace a part strictly based on the code is like replacing your heart because you got a high blood pressure reading.
Not to digress too much, but it brings up an experience I had with a heat pump on my house. When used in the winter to provide heat, the outside unit gets cold. When it's damp out or snowing, the outside coils will freeze up, so the system periodically goes into a defrost mode to thaw out the coils.
Anyway, my unit was not defrosting. An HVAC tech said it was the control board that would cost $400 to replace, plus the $70 for the service visit, and that the board would have to be ordered. Well a week went by and still no control board, so I started poking around a bit (using the schematics on the door of the unit) and found that a $10 relay was sticking closed. I replaced it and that solved the problem. Called up the HVAC place and told 'em to cancel the new part order and, by the way, to refund my money for the service visit (which they did).
Some say that's what Toyota is doing with this UA crisis.
To buy a $540 part based solely on a code without further value measurements is nothing more than a WAG. :P
2000 Chevy express van 4.3 liter about 115K.
This problem literally happened overnight
We use this part time so it does sit a lot. Used Saturday about ½ hr drive each way ran fine. Got in Sunday morning (cold morning for FL about 40 degrees) started and got a tapping noise like stuck lifter. Thought maybe it was the cold. Drove about 5 miles and tapping went away. Everything seemed ok until we slowed for traffic light. Then the engine started making a whining sound. Have oil pressure gauge, typical at idle about 40 psi and running down the road about 60 psi. we were at about the normal 60 psi. the noise went away until next traffic light. Pulled over and checked oil. dip stick was not registering. Looked under for leeks and back by tail pipe for signs of blow by, found nothing. Stopped and added 3 quarts of oil and still not showing on dip stick. Got where we were going. Let van set for a few hours and the oil level was way high. On way home same as described above. Got home and the dip stick was not showing like in morning. Again after setting was way over full. I had checked the oil a few days prior and was perfect.
I am thinking oil pump is working and oil is getting pumped up and not returning.
A coworker suggested changing oil and adding quart of mystery oil.
I was at parts store web site and found a product by Gunk called engine flush. Wondering if this may work.
Obviously you can’t say for sure if this will help but is there a possibility this could clean the oil return and solve my problem.
I have only owned about a year but I know for a fact the oil was changed every 3-4k since new.
From my trip Sunday there were no burning smells or any signs other than noise and dip stick readings.
Also after about 15 minuets the pressure gauge at idle was down to about 25 psi and at 50 mph about 40 psi. (lower than normal) if I start the truck right now will get tapping and oil pressure will be normal until runs/drive about 15 min.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
:sick:
I have heard that high oil level indications on the dip stick, when you are sure the crankcase has the right amount, can be cause by oil wicking up or pooling in the dip stick tube.
Then I'd pour oil into the return openings and see how quickly it shows back up falling into my drain pan.
Since I do a lot of stuff myself, I'd try to take off a valve cover quickly when the oil level had dropped after driving. Then I'd repeat the drive and remove the other valve cover looking for a volume of oil still not drained back.
I'd run something into the drains and see if they're clear after I drained the oil and measured how many quarts drained out.
Then I'd pour oil into the return openings and see how quickly it shows back up falling into my drain pan.
Might not be an eloquent method of diagnosis, but it would eliminate the upper gallery as a reservoir for the hidden oil.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I had a 55 Buick for years that had the oil fills on the valve covers (some 322 nailheads had a tube mounted on the galley cover) and when changing the oil the cold oil would take several minutes to flow down from the heads to the pan (I mean like 10 minutes or so). It didn't matter which valve cover you used, both sides were the same. When the engine ran however the hot oil flowed fine. It was just one of those things I learned to deal with, make sure that the oil was actually in the pan before starting it.
I remember an incident many years ago when I was in the Air Force. I went with a group of others guys on a temporary assignment from where we were stationed in Utah to Mill Valley, California. Since it was only a short trip they had us get a couple of big passenger vans from the motor pool and drive ourselves (plus we wanted to stop in Reno, that's another story). Anyway, these vans were brand new with just a couple hundred miles. At the first gas stop one of the young guys in my van decides we should check the oil "just in case". Lo and behold, he says it's low and needs at least one quart. We get a quart and put it in and go on our merry way. Next gas stop he decides to check it again and uh oh, it's low again! So he gets another quart and puts it in. At the third stop he says "It's low again!" but this time I say wait just a minute. I go and dip it myself and take a close look at the dipstick, and find that it's about 2 quarts overfilled. The oil was so clean on a new dipstick that it was real hard to see, you had to look very close.
It wouldn't surprise me if the arm just popped off the ball, that is on a plate on the back of the motor. Take the trim off at the area between the bottom of the windshield and the back of the wiper motor. Get access to those arms, it will become obvious what the fix is.
All day the readings got higher and eventually went over 110 mph even when setting still.
Now it fluctuates between 75 mph and over 110 mph, mostly reading over 110 mph.
What is most likely to be the problem ?
For instance....
here's one
Is there a list of bolt-patterns on engines vs. transmissions?
This is just valve lifter noise. Unless it is excessive, it's not a problem. If the engine gets quiet when warm, you're still good to go.
If the noise does not go away, or the TAP TAP becomes *very* loud and persistent, then you have a problem.
The only remedy on this particular engine is to replace the lifters with slightly thicker ones. There is no adjustment possible.
This would not be cheap, since you'd have to remove the camshafts to do the job.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The dealer's hourly rate should be posted. i haven't seen any under $125 hour.
Same Buick Regal. The drivers side power window is not working properly. Will power down occasionally without problem... always goes back up without difficulty.
Is the relay switch itself on door wearing out, as sometimes pushing harder will get it to roll down? Or, is the door electrical motor the problem? Thanks.
If the motor was bad, pushing on the switch harder would have no effect on the motor movement.
The contact points on the switch are probably pitted and bad, with a higher resistance.
The switch just determines which direction the current flows through the motor windings. One position drives the motor clockwise (CW), which moves the window one direction.The other position drives the motor CCW which moves the window in the other direction.
I tried to widen out the window track about a week ago. I'll take a closer look at it.
Thanks all.
I'm changing the Catalytic converter and exhaust Manifolds. I've gotten the rear manifold loose, but since it has the small catalytic converter as part of it I can't get it out of the engine compartment. It won't go down and out because of the differential, frame, and steering rack. It won't come up and out because there is not enough clearance between the head and the firewall.
What should I do to get them out?
Should I remove the radiator, loosen the motor mounts and tilt the entire engine forward?
Should I remove the rear cylinder head (I'd like to avoid this if possible)?
Any other ideas? Thanks for the help.
This may not be a DIY'er job.