Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

z71bill

Would you do me a favor?

I had my fuel pump replaced about a month ago - but my spark plugs looked fine - I even checked them myself.

I have read that Mazda is replacing the plugs with a different type - could you post what the brand and number is of the plugs that they use - I think it should be on your invoice.

mdaffron - you have posted some (really many many many) things I don't agree with - but I think EVEN YOU will have a hard time agreeing with your last post. Put the shoe on the other foot and see how it feels.

If you started having a problem with your Mazda3 and read on this board that other were having the same or similar problems - not EVERYONE - but a few - and the Mazda dealership told you it was normal and consumer reports said that this feature was excellent - and Mazda had not Issued a TSB - would you really just accept it and consider it to not be a problem.

COME ON!!!

The comment on Acura Tranny failure is 100% correct.

z71bill

Just got back - here are the results.

Outside temp in shade 95 degrees
Temp back seat - before I left -parked in garage - 98 degrees
Drove 9.6 miles in 19 minutes

Temp of passenger side rear seat - in shade 81 degrees
Vent temp range 49-54 degrees
Front seat pass side 79 degrees
Dash on top of middle vents 122.5 degrees! Full sun.

I had the AC on max recirc plus fan speed on 4

Went home the same way - but with fan speed on 3 (still max with recirc on)

Temp of drivers side rear seat - in shade 82 degrees
Vent temp range 48-52 degrees
Front seat pass side 78 degrees
Dash dropped to 120 degrees - but not in full sun

Not sure if this tells me anything that I didn't already know - except I expected the back to be more than 2-4 degrees warmer than the front - although I never ride back there it just seems like it does not get much air flow.

I think the very dark tint on the rear windows must have really helped the back - I wish I would have done this before doing the tint - would have been nice to know the impact. I would guess it is somewhere between 4 and 6 degrees. I no longer sweat while driving - even if it is 95 degrees outside - before I would need a shower after a long drive.

Now when I say the AC is weak - that means it can't go below 78 degrees in the front seat and 81in the rear.

audia8q

A few of you have mentioned a clicking noise.....Mazda has issued a new TSB. to address the problem.

Some 2004/2005 vehicles may exhibit a click noise from the driveshaft when changing gear direction and or taking off. The symptom is a one time event. This concern is created by a small contact surface between the wheel hub and the driveshaft which causes high contact pressure and stick-slap to occur...There is a fix and the repair procedure should take a couple hours. Bulletin #03-003/05

dride

Spark Plugs: NGK Platinum Tip L303-18-110. Tech said they replaced with the same kind b/c they were wet and dirty from hard starting. Also said I should get way better MPG, but I was already getting 28-30 MPG with 60-40 hwy/city. Just glad I took it in, and wasn't stranded in Western MN on my roadtrip last weekend.

z71bill

First of all - Thank you for the info - I did some additional research and found the plug you listed as the replacement if the stock plugs become fouled. (TSB 01-013/05 2004-2005 MAZDA3 - ENGINE HARD START)

My Mazda3 2.3L came with NGK ITR6F 13 plugs stock - This is what my owners manual says - plus I took the plugs out to check them.

Now I am wondering if Mazda changed the stock plug - (your dealer said they replaced them with the stock plug)

After my fuel pump was replaced the service department said my plugs looked fine and did not need to be replaced - like I said I also pulled them to see for myself - and they did look fine.

The thing I am trying to do is improve my MPG - since the fuel pump replacement I have been getting around 18 MPG - I had hoped that replacing the defective pump would actually improve the MPG - but it went down a little instead.

I am thinking about replacing the plugs anyway - they are very easy to get to and - can't cost much more that 1 tank of gas.

BTW - back in 1980's I lived in western MN - my wife grew up in Pipestone MN.

dride

What kind of MPG were you getting before pump replacement? I am guessing you have an automatic. I religiously track MPG, I have done no worse than 360 miles on 12.5 gallons, if that drops I'll be upset. Previously, I drove a VW, and had a VAG-COM diagnostic tool that allowed me to pull my own codes and diagnose, so dealer couldn't rip me off (I was way out of warranty). I always want to see defective parts, and I request all old parts (if I pay for them). These Mazda guys were super secretive. I wanted to know why the pump failed, what part of it was bad? What were the OBD codes, Fuel too rich? I can't believe a few hard starts fouled up my plugs that bad, I wanted to see them. The canned answers I got to all of my questions: "Don't worry, there is no cost to you." How do I know if this pump is good? VW was notorious for replacing bad parts with more bad parts. Has the pump been modified since TSB? Why couldn't they tell me if the plugs were new stock equip, why the change? I just wanted a mtn free car, that didn't look like a fax machine, I'm not off to a good start. I have had the car for 32 days, and it's been back at dealer for 10 of those days.

benjz

Hi all Mazda3 owners,

I have had my 2005 MZ3i for about a few months. I like the car but after puttimg 4k miles on it, I started to notice an issue with the AT. In the first 5 minutes driving, everytime it shifts gear from 1-2, it gives a kick in the engine. It doesn't seem to do that with other gears (from 2 to 3 and to 4). It does like that at least 3 times before shifting smooth again. The car's AT didn't work like that in the first 4k miles, lately it does. I kinda have a bad feeling about this. The thing is I can take the car in, but it might not do it when it gets to the dealer/service center. So the problem is not consistent, so Techs can't tell what it is. Does anyone have similar problem with your MZ3i? or know anything wrong about this problem?

Thanks, any responses are greatly appreciated.
Benjz

z71bill

Without going back and checking my records - I was getting 21-22 MPG before I had the CEL problem fixed - then my MPG dropped like a rock - a few tanks were between 16 - 17 MPG. Then it slowly went up to 19 - 20 MPG. After the fuel pump replacement I went back down to 17 - 18. The car runs fine - no more stalling or hard starting - like I said I had hoped the gas mileage would get better - but no such luck.

I do drive pretty hard - my AC is always on - plus the traffic where I live is horrible.

Besides the cost of gas - the thing that really sucks is only going 210-225 miles before the low fuel light comes on.

I would like to know if the new plug helps your MPG - which is already GREAT BTW - Let me know if the new plug helps / hurts / no change your MPG.

benjz - Mazda has no fix for the harsh 1-2 shift of the Mazda3 auto tranny. Until they come out with a TSB (which could be never) they are considering this normal.

It seems like this issue is starting to come up more & more - Mazda6 2.3L auto has the same issue - and Mazda has a TSB on it - hopefully Mazda will address the defect. I would hate to have a tranny go out after warranty period.

chacobleu

Is there a way to get the shade to close while the moonroof is completely open? The !@#$%^&* landscapers at work were blowing dust all over the place today while I had the moonroof cracked open (flipped), and I would really like to clean it before I drive it again.

mpg60

(LOL) i see it happened to you to.. Landscapers her also at work. I have tried there is no way you are going to close. I used my home vac with the nozzle extention and was able to get it cleaned fairly well. Tight squeeze though. Good Luck and the moral of the story is never leave your moonroof tilted at work.

chacobleu

I’ve never done or heard this before. After my 36 mile commute home and after turning off the engine, I popped the hood to check on a couple of misc things. When I did, I heard this slight high pitched constant whine coming from the right side of the engine, in front of the battery. It definitely sounded electrical; I didn’t see any leaks. This was the first time that I drove with the windows open; no a/c (the interior turbulence is pretty good up to 90 mph with all windows half way down in my HB) I went off to turn on the lawn sprinkler only to return a few minutes later with the noise gone.

I forgot to check under the hood this morning after driving to work. Any idea???

shaggnasty1

FWIW, I have a 2005 SP23 and the a/c in it is teh suck. Very weak.

luvmysp23

hey shaggnasty1...

I have an '05 SP23 as well and the AC is not the greatest but, I've noticed that if you keep the car in a garage or in the shade, the AC is pretty good. I guess the hood doesn't have much insulation to keep the AC's parts from getting too hot while in the sun. Good luck with your new whip. I'm loving it so far... :shades:

chacobleu

I forgot to mention that it wasn't the radiator fan making that faint noise

jbollt

This may or may not be pertinent.

In the current issue of Motor Trend there is an article on the new Miata...err... MX-5 as they want it refered to, and one of the things they note as changed in "new versus old" is "HVAC unit seven percent smaller".. Now I realize that the car in question is not the 3, and that A/C use in open 2 seat roadsters is probably much less than in a sedan/hatchback, AND the interior space is much smaller. But perhaps it comments on Mazdas thinking in regards to A/C? They didn't say smaller cooling capacity, so I could be all wet. (won't be the first time) LOL May be totaly unlelated..just food for thought and comment.

backy

On this subject, I just read in the September C/D about weak A/C in the RX-8 (according to C/D's staff who are driving a 2004 RX-8 on a long-term test). The C/D editors complained to the dealer, and the dealer installed an "A/C booster box" that was for "those who complained". It did improve the A/C performance, but made the cooling fan run long after the engine was shut off, draining the battery. Maybe this is just all part of the Mazda philosophy, i.e. "REAL drivers don't need A/C!"

mdaffron

I think they are getting smaller. The one in the 3 is advertised as compact and lightweight yet with improved performance (see the second unit on this page):

http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/product/pro_semiunit_en.html

There's a timeline listing the Mazda models this company provides a/c units for here:

http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/

Meade

nifty56

You are right about the idiot light in disguise, A mechanic friend of mine has Miata with the gauge. When the Miata first first came out owners where complaining that they didn't like the idiot light for a temp reading, so Mazda changed to a gauge. He says he finds the same in his Miata, temp goes up in a hurry, and does not change no matter what the driving condition. Wonder if other car makers do the same?

mdaffron

... to a gauge, even if it's an "idiot light in disguise".

A light can burn out, and you won't know whether it's burned out or not.

An "idiot light in disguise" will have three distinct (and highly visible, even peripherally) positions -- off, normal, and high. And you'll be able to tell when the gauge is operating, when it's not, and when things aren't right.

Meade

P.S. I don't really think the 3's gauge falls into this category. Mine goes up nice and smoothly in the mornings to its midway point. And if I shut the car off and then back on after visiting my neighbor down the block, the gauge goes back up only about 1/4 of the way (it didn't have time to heat up all the way) and then resumes its slow climb to midway. Don't think a 3-position "idiot light" gauge would be able to do that.

nifty56

I noticed during a late evening drive that the temp out of the vents seemed warmer than the outside air with the A/C OFF. So decided to do a temp check coming out of the vents. With the fan speed at 2, switch to upper vents, recir OFF, outside air switch ON, A/C OFF and temp switch to coldest, windows up(tinted 35%) here are the results. The outside temp was 20C or 68F it was about 9:00pm so the sun was not an issue. Car idling the temp out of the vents was 27C or 80F. and the interior temp same as the temp out of the vents. A 7C or 12F difference from the ourside air and the vent air. Seems high to me
Is the outside air coming through the hot engine bay before being sucked into the car? Is the outside air being heated by the fan? Is the outside air being mixed with heated air from the heater core? Do I put up with being uncomfortable at 80F while the outside temp is 68F or use the A/C when I shouldn't have to. And do not mention I should roll my windows down. I don't like driving with the windows down because of the noise, besides I like to listen to the audio system and not tire noise from other vehicles thats why I bought a car with A/C. Besides it is not a fix or explanation. I have 2 other vehicles and did the same test with them and only found a 2 degree difference but a 12F difference for my M3. Something is not right. Maybe others could check their car. I will do the same check again to confirm my previous results when the temp in my area cools down. On a side note, maybe the weak A/C has to do with warm or hot air from some other source mixing with the cold A/C air? Shouldn't have to drive with windows down for 5 or 10 minutes to cool the interior etc. and all the other DO's to cool the interior but I think the real issue is the temp out of the VENTS, not how to and what to do to keep and cool the interior from window tints to front windshield visors which are all great and helpful suggestions. A friend of mine has a black Altima with a 4 banger and all he does is crack the windows slightly for a few minutes puts them back up and the A/C takes over. Have other car message boards here been complaining about a weak A/C ,if not, why us? I THINK we MIGHT have a problem. I posted this same issue on another board and got an answer back suggesting "roll the windows down =D" what does "=D" mean? Make a observation to be helpful and at times get insulted. I wish Mazda would send out a survey to all its Mazda 3 owners who have owned their cars for more than 6 months. I got one 2 weeks after my purchase, what can you say how your driving experience and dependablity have been in a short period of time. Somebody said I should have researched the car better before buying, I bought the middle of March where the temps at that time would be about 10C or 50F or less so how could one check the A/C. Besides a lot of people do not have a computer to hook up to the internet to get more info on a car. Another answer,"it is an entery level car so don't expect too much" Paid $1000.00 CDN of A/C and I wand a grands worth of cold air.
Sorry for the rambling or should I say thanks for the opportunity to vent...I feel better now... by the way my M3 is an 05 GT GFX sedan and the A/C is not as strong as I think it should be compared to other cars I have owned.
Guess its better to look good than feel good

mdaffron

... The air that enters the cabin enters through vents between the hood and the windshield. It usually is a little warmer there, no matter the time of day, since it is affected by the hood which is covering a warm engine. So the air coming out of your vents usually will be warmer than the ambient air outside -- especially if you're sitting still, as you admit you were ("car idling").

BTW, at least cracking a back window will reduce the airflow resistance inside the closed car and allow more air to flow fhrough the car, which may result in a more comfortable experience.

This is not meant as a flame -- but you made it a point to say how you invested so much in A/C. If the air coming out of your vents without the a/c is is too warm for you, and you refuse to roll down any windows, why don't you just turn on the A/C then?

Meade

ex_tdier

Just a recap. The 2004 Mazda3's can have a diffuser installed for the A/C issue. This is what the bulletin is. This diffuser only helps a bit. The 2005 already has the diffuser installed. The problem is still prevalent in the 2005's. The A/C compressor tends to cycle on and off way to frequently. This is contributing to the problem. When driving in the shade with the A/C on, obviously the A/C will do a better job in cooling. Tinting windows helps as does driving in the shade. The A/C coolant or refrigerant used is in the Mazda 3 I have been told is 134A.

I have driven many 4 cylinder cars from GM to Volkswagen over the last 6 years with 134A refrigerant. The Mazda 3 has the WORST A/C of any car I have driven. In fact, on most days, it is entirely unacceptable. If one wants it to cool, one has to use the 2 setting as a minimum. In all other vehicles, the 1 would suffice. This A/C is not acceptable for warm climates or driving in summer months.

It will be interesting to see how Mazda Japan had addressed this issue for their customers in Asia. I doubt they have the same A/C unit as we do in North America. I would like to see some posts from Asia here.

mdaffron

It will be interesting to see how Mazda Japan had addressed this issue for their customers in Asia. I doubt they have the same A/C unit as we do in North America.

Sorry! Same unit in Japan and the U.S. (see the timeline):

http://www.jcsaircon.co.jp/en/

Meade

richml

I believe that some posters have indicated that their 2005 3s didn't have the diffusers installed.

The AC unit isn't made by Mazda, it is made by the company that Meade has indicated. Would there be a 2005 model AC - different from the 2004 AC - on a basically unchanged vehicle?

nifty56

I agree with the vent temp would be higher than the outside air but 12F more?
Maybe the outside air switch is not working, not letting outside air into the car or it is picking up some hotter air from some other source and coming in?
Maybe with the A/C on and even with the recir switch on the cool air might be mixing with some other source of hot air? Just trying to think outside the box. By the way just checked my GMC pick up. Outside air 85F temp through the vents 89F no temp variation whether idling or at a speed of 60. And of course I would turn on the A/C as you suggested. BTW I do crack my windows open a little to help with air circulation to allow more air movement. I have done that since I bought my first car with A/C in 1978 and have done it ever since with every car I have owned.But it doesn't help with the air through the vents to be cooler.

z71bill

I have been fighting with this defective AC system for about 1 1/2 years. I got similar results when I did the same test last year - all my vehicles had some increase in air temp - but the Mazda3 was by far the most.

One day when I got home (engine completely warmed up) I took the plastic cover off (the one located on the passenger side) its easy - one little plastic pop rivet type thing is all that holds it on. Once this cover is off you can see the side of the heater core - and the air box that holds the evaperator. The side of the heater core was so hot that I could not touch it. The heater core is only inches from the AC evaperator.

I considered taking the heater hoses off at the fire wall and connecting them together - so that the hot coolant would not go into the heater core - If that worked I was going to find (or have built) an "H" valve to install on the heater hoses - so I could - by opening and closing a valve - either have coolant flow through the heater core (on cold days) - or by pass it( during the summer). The service manager at Mazda told me that back in the 1980's some Chevys had a problem with AC performance because of the heater core and evaperator being so close - this was used to solve the problem. The only concern he had about it was - it could cause an engine over heating problem - because the heater core does remove some heat from the engine - and if it was by passed he did not know if the radiator would be able to handle the additional heat load.

After seeing the way the system is laid out - I am not surprised at all about the amount of temp gain. Not sure how other small cars are designed - but I think Mazda tried to design a very small system - so they could save space and I would guess also to save money (nothing wrong with these reasons) but it seems like what looked good on paper was a complete failure in practice.

Now Mazda (my opinion) is somewhat stuck with the compact design - because to put a larger system in (and make no mistake that is the only way Mazda will ever solve this defect) they would need to completely change the air handling system and there is just not enough room to do that without completely changing the interior.

So I think Mazda just decided to leave it as is - live with the complaints - and tell customers it is - working as designed.

mdaffron

I finally got around to doing that little thermometer test yesterday. And I was glad I waited until yesterday; when I got home at 4 p.m., the temperature in the shade was a mere 98 degrees Fahrenheit. Good day to perform this test, eh? (The dewpoint was 70 -- nice and muggy, for those of you who are as meteorologically inclined as I am.)

I arrived home and cut off the car. (I needed my keys to unlock the front door!) I went inside and retrieved my thermometer, went back outside, restarted the car (which was sitting in the shade), and let it idle with the A/C on. I did not move the car or rev the engine. With the fan speed at 3, the temp all the way on cold, the lever on "face" vents and the recirc switch on, I placed my thermometer's probe in the right center vent. In less than a minute it was down to 42 degrees. I then heard the A/C compressor cycle off, and the temp went up to 44 and then to 46 -- over the course of about a minute. Then it cycled back on again and the vent temp returned to 42. I let this go on for about five minutes or so, noting no change. Then I took the probe out of the vent and hung it over the back of the passenger seat so that the sensor was dangling in the air right about where a back seat passenger's knees would be. The temperature went up to 66 degrees and stayed there for five minutes. The car was at idle the whole time.

I then moved the car out onto the street in full sun and parked it for about 10 minutes. (I had to take out the trash.) When I returned the sensor, still hanging in the back seat, was registering 97 degrees. (Not bad for 10 minutes in full sun with the windows up -- nice insulation, Mazda!) Leaving it there, I started the car and turned on the A/C in the same settings as before. Within three minutes the temperature in the back seat was 66, and it fluctuated between 66 and 68 for the five minutes or so that I had the car idling. I then returned the probe to the right center vent, and the temperature again was fluctuating -- depending on whether the compressor was on or off -- between 42 and 46 F.

We all know air conditioners work better when the engine rpms are above idle, so I can only assume this was a worst-case scenario. I really do think that a back-seat temperature of between 66 and 68 degrees, while the car is in full sun on a 98-degree day, is pretty darned good! BTW, my car is a Velocity Red 2005 Mazda3 hatch.

Meade

z71bill

I sure wish my AC worked that well - My back seat was over 80 degrees - on a 95 degree day after driving for 20 minutes. The only way I could ever get close to those temps is if I packed ICE in my back seat!

Sure is hard to believe that 2 cars could be so different. Do you have a CR approved thermometer?

I guess the thing people looking at the Mazda3 need to understand is - check the AC out very carefully - you may get one that works good - you may also get one that is OK on most days - or you could get one that is very weak. Doesn't say much for Mazda quality control if there really is this much difference.

But the real important thing to understand is - IF YOU DO GET STUCK WITH A DEFECTIVE AC SYSTEM Mazda will not fix it.

mdaffron

Sure is hard to believe that 2 cars could be so different. Do you have a CR approved thermometer?

Geez Bill, so now you're questioning my thermometer?

Truth be told, it's a professional cooking thermometer with a temperature probe. It reads from 32 to over 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and cost quite a bit more than the Radio Shack or Oregon Scientific digital thermometers most people use for this.

Meade

kyfdx

"The A/C in my Mazda3 really blows!"

Then, you can take that however you want..

No charge for this one..

regards,
kyfdx

mdaffron

:shades:

dride

I've had my 3 to the dealer a couple of times now for various problems. When they drive it over to drop off to me at the service door, they always have the A/C going on 2 with the round side vents closed on both sides. I used to leave all vents open. Now that I leave the outer two closed by the doors, my cabin seems to stay much cooler, and the air coming out seems quite cooler. Why is this? I was back in SD a few weeks back, and had my grumpy old folks (in their 50's) in the back seat, driving around on a 95* day. When I asked them if they were ok temp wise, they said they were ok. (I did have the fan set on 3). Believe me, if they were slightly too hot, I would've heard about it repeatedly. I guess I may have a decent A/C, which I like B/C in my VW when I would turn on the AC I would loose like 10 horsepower. To me, it's all relative: a 2 setting in the 3 keeps the front seat comfortable on long trips, a 2 setting in my wife's jeep on a long trip either requires a downgrade to a 1 setting or I need to wear a sweater. So, I've never been uncomfortable in my 3, but I have never been too cold either. Glad I live in the midwest.

pwimsey

I have also had no problems with the AC on my Mazda 3 5-door after 1050 miles - and this includes a week or so of driving during a heat advisory (i.e. 95+ weather; high humidity). If I park my car in the garage or in the shade, it gets cool pretty much instantly. If I leave it in the 90+ degree sun for a few hours, it takes 3 or 4 minutes for the car to cool down; no doubt a consequence of the Black Mica color I chose (combined with the mostly black interior).

z71bill

Not questioning your thermometer -

If the AC in everyones Mazda3 would take the temp down from 95 to 65 (in the back seat even) in a few minutes then how many complaints would you see on this board? ZERO - thats right ZERO.

Fact is many Mazda3's have weak AC systems - that is why you still - after 1 1/2 years - still see complaints.

What are the odds that in June of 2006 - that some 2006 Mazda3 owners will post - anyone having problems with a weak AC?

nifty56

I had also thought of doing the same as you mentioned about taking the heater hoses and joining them. I did the similar thing on my 1983 Olds. The vacuum switch to regulate the temp went on the bummer. It ws a big job as getting to the switch reqiured removing the front dash and other things to get to it. In the mean time I removed the heater hoses and joined them with a coupling. Now no water was passing into the heater core. I drove all summer like this with no problems or over heating. In winter I would reconnect and again the following summer rejoined them together, Of course the rad in the car because it has air is larger than the rad in the same car with no air. Maybe the rad in the 3 with A/C is larger than a 3 with no air? I think the heater core will only take heat from the engine only if the temp switch is at hot. Manual says keep your eyes on the temp gauge when the air is on to avoid over heating. If over heating occurs turn air off and turn temp switch to hot and fan on high to help expell heat from the engine. Not sure if I have the right wording as I do not have the manal in front of me, but you get the idea.
As you said installing an "H" valve would work. If you are concerned about over heating than you can open the valves slightly to let some water pass into the heater core. There is no fan or air blowing on the heater core, I don't think, to keep the core cool and in turn help to keep the engine cool. The only function the heater core has is to supply heat to the interior I believe. The temp gauge in these cars is just an idiot light in disguise.

z71bill

You can buy the tube to connect the heater hoses together at AutoZone - they sell them to people who get a leak in the heater core and don't want to spend the $ to fix it. Some mechanics call them cheaters - not sure why.

Since the summer is almost over I may wait until next year - then give it a try. The way I look at it - it couldn't hurt - but may not help much - the way the compressor is controlled it may just cycle quicker - if that is even possible!

BTW - most owners manuals have the coolant capacity listed for - with & without AC if there is a difference. I bet Mazda uses the same for both. I am not home or I would look.

mazda6s

Why such a variation in AC performance?

audia8q

I wonder also.....It has been 90+ and humid here for the past couple weeks. We are not seeing folks coming in with A/C complaints. It seems the problem isnt widespread otherwise the service depart would be loaded up....people in CT whine when it gets over 80 (oh it's too hot)

z71bill

Very good question - it would seem reasonable if the variation was 2 or even 3 degrees but a vent temp difference of 6-8 degrees (my vents blow air that is between 48 and 54 - meade got 42 - 46) is not acceptable.

Plus how that (6-8 degree) difference ends up being a 15-16 degree difference in back seat temp is hard to accept.

Maybe meade was using celsius!

autonomous

Maybe meade was using celsius!

I guess Bill, you were using fahrinhot (rhymes with carishot).

sandman46

Our a/c seems to run fine down here in South Florida, even with our hot + 90 degree days of late. The wife leaves the dial at the 2 position and it stays quite comfy in the whole car. Glad we got a good unit.
Good news though. The wife absolutely hates the high headrests on the front seats and is seriously considering giving me the 3 and getting the 2006 Jetta L for herself. Hope she means it!
Zoom Zoom!

the Sandman

richml

An AC question - is it possible for a Mazda tech to query by VIN and be able to see if the 3 has the diffuser plate installed in the AC system?

mdaffron

Meade

chacobleu

Has anyone tried the wet (saliva) index finger test?

On second thought, scrap that. Meteorologists use this method and we all know the disparity in those results.

mdaffron

My finger turned blue and snapped off.

I'd much rather hold my finger out the window and feel the Zoom Index.

(Oh, and don't take that the wrong way -- I was speaking of my upturned thumb!)

Meade

mdaffron

I can't figure out why I've read some people say that the car doesn't heat worth a damn either. Now, I bought my 3 in April, so I haven't had it through a real winter yet, but I'll tell you this -- it heats up about twice as fast as the Mazda Protege that it replaced, and on some of those chilly early April predawn mornings (I leave for work around 6 a.m.), I had to turn the heat DOWN less than a mile after leaving home.

I'll say this -- with all these comments about heater cores so hot they can't be touched, I don't want to hear ANY of you complaining about being cold this winter!

Meade

P.S. I've GOT IT! The solution! Knock out the rear window, install a window air conditiioner, and put a 2 kW Honda generator in the trunk to run it!

z71bill

When faced with a problem that you can't figure out - sometimes it helps to look at the obvious facts - Mazda put defective HVAC systems in some cars and now will not fix them. That is not so hard now is it!

The heater complaints were mostly from Canada - but I think a few also came from MN - a state I lived in for 4 cold years. I think the problem was long warm up times, limited heat after the car was warmed up and very foggy windows - even some ice forming on the inside of the windshield.

My heater works fine - but it almost never gets below 40 degrees in Houston - I have turned my AC on (in the Mazda3) with the temps in the low 60's - something I would not normally do in my other vehicles - I would normally just turn on the vent.

mdaffron

I was kidding around, as I think was evident by the tone of my post.

Meade

P.S. Why did you find the need to turn on the a/c in your Mazda3 with outside temps so low?

chacobleu

No one ever commented on my issue about the electrical noise on the right side of the motor, in front of the battery immediately after the car is turned off (driven at least 10-15 minutes). I’ve checked on it a few times; sometimes its there sometimes it isn’t. I stated that it wasn’t the radiator fan; still isn’t. More about the noise: sounds like a tiny vacuum cleaner; runs for about 30 seconds to 3 minutes; at the end of the cycle an electrical/mechanical flap closing sound (like the HVAC) is heard with air/gas pressure release (like a fart – btw can I say fart?)

I know that in “partial zero emission vehicles (PZEV),” the exhaust that is naturally released by the engine after it’s turned off is recycled and made available for the next time the engine is started. Could this be the case here? I think the 2.3 is classified as only as SULEV, which is 1 step below PZEV.

mdaffron

Sorry I haven't responded, but I have listened for such a noise, and I haven't heard anything abnormal coming from under my hood.

My I recommend a capful of Mylanta in your radiator after particularly exciting zoom sessions?

:shades:

Meade