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I noticed that the older 2.3 had the cannister type (with replaceable core) and the 2.0 has the standard one-piece type filter.
Can anyone provide an answer on this topic?
Thanks.
My 2007 MS3 sits lower than a standard 3 but the only thing I've scuffed up is the black spoiler lip. Of course, I do use common sense when negotiating speed bumps or maneuvering in the vicinity of high curbing. I can't imagine you would have any problem with a regular 3.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Wise man. I sped over a speed bump once and wrecked my power steering which proved to be a costly lesson.
It seems that my Mazda3's windshield can't handle any small rocks and sand. I have 3 cracks already and one of them is about 8 in long within 6 mos!! and I only had the car for about a year. Anyone else experience this? I have no choice but to replace it before my inspection time arrives.
Some people have all the luck ... not.
I had two flat tires within a month. I was driving through the parking lot of a hardware store and must have been hitting nails coming off a supply truck. Once I figured out the source of the problem, I just avoided driving there and bingo, no more flats.
Here's hoping you have better luck in the future.
I also have $500 deductible so I might as well pay out of pocket. How much do you think it will cost to replace it?
I would like to know what it is and if it is needed.
Look at the pic, i circled what im talking about in red.
http://www.carspace.com/mazda3speed/Albums/mazda3speed%27s%20Album/Stock%20Intak- - e.jpg/page/photo.html#pic
Now my dealership is telling me that the device I plugged into the computer of my car from my car insurance agency (I get a discount) is the cause of all my problems. They said it drains the battery at night. I told them that I had problems with the car's amp and battery since the day I bought it and I hadn't plugged in the device at the time. So now I returned the device and let's see if my car breaks down again. I never had a problem with the device in my 2007 Mazda 3 and I had that plugged in for more than a year with my old car.
Should that happen?
Should that happen?
In order to help you I need:
1. Year and Model of your car
2. Brand of CAI
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Well similar advice applies, in general terms---yes, that can happen.
A CAI can trip an engine light for a variety of reasons---an obvious one is that the filter in the new CAI has contaminated the MAF sensor with oil.
Another possibility I have read about is that the new intake vibrates a lot more than the stock system and this sets off the sensor in some fashion.
It's also possible that the stock MAF cannot make sense of the temperature of the air and rate of flow from the new CAI.
One experiment you can perform is to clean the MAF and then re-install the stock filter box and reset the CEL and see what happens.
Might be interesting to read the code as well and see what it says.
CAI- Injen
but i found the reason the light came on, thanks for the help tho
Vacuum hose?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
k, I have a 2005 Mazda3i 5spd, k its got 82000 miles on it. I drive this thing and take care of it like a baby. Well the other day I went to recharge my a/c k it didnt work. Later on that day it was driving funny. When u were driving down the road suddenly it would make kind of like a whinding noise and like pull back on the car even tho i didnt let my foot off the gas. And it would do this for 2-3 seconds then stop. And this would contuine again and again and i have no idea what is wrong with it but there is deff something the matter.
If anyone knows anything that could help please help me.
Good luck!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100817/us_nm/us_mazda_recall_5
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
This is the first "glitch" to show up on this vehicle - it's been very reliable and still drives like new.
I had dinner with my parents on July 18th (Sunday) and my mom mentioned that she had just received a recall notice on her '07 Explorer. She was also having an ongoing problem with a radiator leak that they still hadn't fixed. I am self-employed and only had one client on the following Tuesday, so I told her I'd take it to have both items fixed. We traded cars that night and planned to switch back on Tuesday night (or whenever I felt like driving the 58-mile one-way trip from Atlanta to po-dunk)....
My mom drives a school bus for special-needs children and rarely uses her car during the week. But on the same morning I took hers to the Ford dealer, she drove mine to a mandatory pre-back-to-school training meeting. She approached a red light intersection and came to a stop behind a 2004 BMW X3 SUV. A few seconds later, a 20-year girl in a 2008 Toyota Camry plowed into the back of my MZ3 at about 40mph! It was hard enough to knock my car 8-10 feet into the back of the BMW X3 with sufficient force to cause the driver's side airbag to deploy!
First and foremost, the restraint systems in my Mazda3 did a very good job of protecting good my mom- although the airbag was deployed; it never made contact with her upper body or head (only her forearms and hands). The seatbelt pretensioner "fired" simultaneously with the airbag, which eliminated any slack in the belt and held her firmly in place against the seat back and headrest. She still has some soreness and bruising in her chest (I'll take her word for it!) where the seatbelt held her in position, but that is a far better outcome than even an inch or two of forward motion. The body's deceleration (often when it slams into something hard enough to stop it cold, like the dash, steering wheel or windshield) is one of the critical risks in accidents of this nature. So the safety systems did their job, which is what I expected of the car from day one- performed as expected!
The amazing thing was the condition of the vehicle in terms of overall damage. It looked trashed, with both ends smashed and an airbag handing from the steering wheel. The cop, my mom and, even me when I saw it later that day, expected the car to be "totaled" (total loss). But the tow-truck driver remarked that he was amazed to find no leaking fluids of any kind, not a single drop, underneath my car! A few days later, I learned that the Radiator Core Support had been severely damaged in the frontal impact, but the radiator never leaked a drop!
I had the car towed to the Acura/Honda body shop that I have always used for my Acuras and Hondas in the past. My brother-in-law has worked there for about 23 years and he's the only painter I'd ever allow near my car! They are a Direct Repair Shop for the insurer of the at-fault driver, but I insisted that my car be handled outside that program and they handled it the same as they would a cash customer (OEM parts only, no shortcuts and no insurer-imposed deadlines). The Body Shop Manager prepared the estimate himself and I was amazed once again at his findings-
There was no damage to the frame/structure and every single part required for repair was "bolt-on"! The rear bumper cover, front bumper cover and grille (attached to front edge of hood) were the only visible, painted parts to be replaced. The underlying support structures of each bumper, radiator core support, hood latch and all airbag-related components still ran the total up to just over $6800! I'm surprised that they didn't 'total' it, especially when you add the $700 for the rental car they provided...(first a Dodge Avenger that was so hideous I refused to drive it, then a Toyota Corolla that smelled like feet and stale beer)!
I got my Zoom-Zoom back on Thursday and I'm amazed at how great it looks and drives! I'm even more amazed that it still "feels" rock solid and I've only heard one noticeable squeak/rattle. The passenger seat was removed so the weight sensor could be replaced and a squeak was coming from one of the bolts at the rear of the seat track. A quick 1/4 turns cured that! I'm sure there will be at least a few new squeaks when cold weather arrives, but I don't think it's going to be all that bad.
Sorry this ran so long, for those of you who lack the patience, attention span or interest to read it all, I'll sum it up in a few key phrases-
Safe, protects driver very well
Built like a tank, took hard double hit and still lives on....
Having the same problem this week. Compressor kicks on, air gets cold, but the fan blows very weakly and makes a soft droning/buzzing noise. Bad bearing in there, maybe? Last night wife says it wouldn't blow at all, but then later it did kick on again.
Mazda dealer says it's out of warranty and wants $136 for the part and $369 for labor. I've found the part (BP4K61B10) online for $40. I don't (yet) own the Chilton or Haynes manual for this car since I've never needed to do any real work, but am awfully tempted to at least try before forking over $500. Is this part pretty easily accessible? I'm no mechanic, but I do basic stuff like oil changes, spark plugs, light bulbs on my own, and have done a few things like brakes and even front axles (different cars) with "supervision" from my father-in-law.
The dealership recommends the OEM part, naturally, but I reckon an aftermarket part couldn't be any worse than the two OEM's I've already gone through in less than three years...
So, scale of 1 to 10, how hard will this job be? Do I go for it, or do I bend over for the dealer? Thanks,
-Andy
I'd say it is not rocket science, but experience might be required.
I'm feeling adventurous (and cheap), but I've also got a pretty busy weekend already, and perhaps 2 more months of AC usage here in the Dallas area.
Thanks for the very quick response, by the way!
It's not that accessible. That's why it takes a pro 3 hours.
I often hear a humming sound for some time after I turn the engine off, and I'm wondering if this has something to do with the battery issue. If it even is a battery issue.
Has anybody had a similar problem with their Mazda 3? Any ideas? :confuse:
Katy
It's possible the battery itself is no good--it should be "loaded-tested" to see if it falls on its face or not. Some weak batteries can start a car okay but haven't got any reserve capacity.