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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • cc475cc475 Member Posts: 7
    I am trying to find out if the Mazda 3 2.0 and Mazda 3 2.5 models have different oil filter types.

    I noticed that the older 2.3 had the cannister type (with replaceable core) and the 2.0 has the standard one-piece type filter.

    Can anyone provide an answer on this topic?

    Thanks. :)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    This is the first time I have heard that the Mazda3 sits too low. Does the Civic sit much higher than the Mazda3? Was your Mazda3r lowered as part of a modification?

    My 2007 MS3 sits lower than a standard 3 but the only thing I've scuffed up is the black spoiler lip. Of course, I do use common sense when negotiating speed bumps or maneuvering in the vicinity of high curbing. I can't imagine you would have any problem with a regular 3.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    edited June 2010
    I do use common sense when negotiating speed bumps

    Wise man. I sped over a speed bump once and wrecked my power steering which proved to be a costly lesson. :(
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    I have never had a car to get cracks on windshield so easily.
    It seems that my Mazda3's windshield can't handle any small rocks and sand. I have 3 cracks already and one of them is about 8 in long within 6 mos!! and I only had the car for about a year. Anyone else experience this? I have no choice but to replace it before my inspection time arrives.
  • moozmoozmoozmooz Member Posts: 3
    I had a fair size rock hit mine recently and never made a scratch. I thought for sure there would be some damage.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    edited July 2010
    3 cracks already ,,, within 6 mos!!
    Some people have all the luck ... not.
    I had two flat tires within a month. I was driving through the parking lot of a hardware store and must have been hitting nails coming off a supply truck. Once I figured out the source of the problem, I just avoided driving there and bingo, no more flats.

    Here's hoping you have better luck in the future.
  • valent39valent39 Member Posts: 5
    Usually, the windshield replacement is covered by your insurance - don't wait....
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Some insurance companies will waive the comprehensive deductible, if you opt for repair of windshield chips, rather than replacement.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    Too late. One of the crack turned into a 2-in long crack within 2 days, and now it is 8 inches long and splitting into two directions. I can't repair it and it has to be replaced.
    I also have $500 deductible so I might as well pay out of pocket. How much do you think it will cost to replace it?
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    sonnyrocker, check your policy again or call your agent. Most policies provide full glass replacement coverage (or have a much lower deductible on it) even though a higher deductible otherwise applies to Comprehensive coverage.
  • skeeter22skeeter22 Member Posts: 1
    We had been plagued with constant wheel/tire vibration in the 53-65 mph range since we bought our 2008 5dr 2.3 S Touring (automatic). Numerous attempts at balancing and finally a change to tires to Michelin did not cure the problem. Our final solution was to GET RID OF IT! Car drove great below 50 and above 65, but it was so unpleasant inbetween that we just couldn't take it any longer. Replaced with 2010 Mazda6 Touring Plus (3.7). Very NIce!
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    I've had the windshield replaced in my 08 Mazda3 twice, once at a no-name shop when the guy came by my apartment and another at a Mazda dealer who subcontracted the work to a local glass shop. The bills were $250 and $270, all-inclusive. I would not bother with deductible for these prices...
  • mazda3speedmazda3speed Member Posts: 4
    i have a cold air intake that im trying to install on my 2008 mazda 3. On the intake there is a place for the MAF and the tube, but on the stock intake there is another piece and i have no idea what it is, and there is no place for it on the aftermarket intake.

    I would like to know what it is and if it is needed.

    Look at the pic, i circled what im talking about in red.
    http://www.carspace.com/mazda3speed/Albums/mazda3speed%27s%20Album/Stock%20Intak- - e.jpg/page/photo.html#pic
  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    I had posted earlier in the thread how I have been having major problems with my car (2010 Mazda 3) since the day I bought. I finally put in a Lemon Law letter about the car so Mazda came and fixed the car.

    Now my dealership is telling me that the device I plugged into the computer of my car from my car insurance agency (I get a discount) is the cause of all my problems. They said it drains the battery at night. I told them that I had problems with the car's amp and battery since the day I bought it and I hadn't plugged in the device at the time. So now I returned the device and let's see if my car breaks down again. I never had a problem with the device in my 2007 Mazda 3 and I had that plugged in for more than a year with my old car.
  • dclurkerdclurker Member Posts: 57
    B.S. Your insurance device is not the problem. Dealers will say anything to avoid doing warranty work.
  • mazda3speedmazda3speed Member Posts: 4
    I installed a aftermarket CAI and now my check engine light is on.
    Should that happen?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes it often does happen. Your CAT cannot maintain the values necessary for factory specs apparently. Not saying this IS the cause, but it seems more than coincidental. I bet when you have the trouble codes read, they'll point to something to do with the 02 sensors.
  • mazda3speedmazda3speed Member Posts: 4
    Is this a bad thing?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well, one should always find out first of all what the check engine light is telling you--then we can decide if it's bad or not. If you are in a smog state, you won't pass emissions testing with a light on. It might be that your CAT is just not quite as efficient as the factory unit. As for any "harm", that's hard to say without some actual data in hand.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    He installed an air intake, CAI not CAT.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I installed a aftermarket CAI and now my check engine light is on.
    Should that happen?


    In order to help you I need:

    1. Year and Model of your car
    2. Brand of CAI

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, okay, I misread that obviously.

    Well similar advice applies, in general terms---yes, that can happen.

    A CAI can trip an engine light for a variety of reasons---an obvious one is that the filter in the new CAI has contaminated the MAF sensor with oil.

    Another possibility I have read about is that the new intake vibrates a lot more than the stock system and this sets off the sensor in some fashion.

    It's also possible that the stock MAF cannot make sense of the temperature of the air and rate of flow from the new CAI.

    One experiment you can perform is to clean the MAF and then re-install the stock filter box and reset the CEL and see what happens.

    Might be interesting to read the code as well and see what it says.
  • mazda3speedmazda3speed Member Posts: 4
    car- 2008 mazda 3 i sport
    CAI- Injen

    but i found the reason the light came on, thanks for the help tho
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Gas cap?
    Vacuum hose?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • virwillvirwill Member Posts: 3
    My foglight covers are both broken and although the lights work, they won't pass Virginia inspection. Rather than spend at least $500 for two new assemblies and labor, I'm going to try and remove them and install fog light covers. Plenty of stuff online about removing the bulbs; I want to remove everything. I need to know what's involved or to find instructions. It's an 08 iTouring model, 2.0. Help! And thanks. -- Bill
  • 05mazda3iusaf05mazda3iusaf Member Posts: 4
    Hey everyone i come on this from time to time to get people who know there stuff help me out well i need it again.

    k, I have a 2005 Mazda3i 5spd, k its got 82000 miles on it. I drive this thing and take care of it like a baby. Well the other day I went to recharge my a/c k it didnt work. Later on that day it was driving funny. When u were driving down the road suddenly it would make kind of like a whinding noise and like pull back on the car even tho i didnt let my foot off the gas. And it would do this for 2-3 seconds then stop. And this would contuine again and again and i have no idea what is wrong with it but there is deff something the matter.

    If anyone knows anything that could help please help me.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    If you're interested in purchasing fog lights from a salvage vehicle, check out www.car-part.com. It will search thousands of auto salvage dealers for the part(s) you specify and most listings include item condition and pricing. I've used it to locate several parts for my '06 Mazda3 and it's the only way I've been able to keep my '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee on the road!

    Good luck!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    It sounds like the A/C compressor is dying, especially if it's no longer blowing cold air. If the compressor hasn't completely locked down and snapped the A/C belt, I would HIGHLY recommend cutting the A/C belt before you drive it another mile! That will prevent any further damage to the A/C system when the compressor eventually does lock down completely. When that happens, metallic debris will destroy most of the A/C components (not just the compressor)!
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • rgeiger2010rgeiger2010 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3 Hatchback and have been having issues with the A/C. I initially thought it needed to be charged, so I did that, which helped at first, but it seems to randomly "switch off". The fan continues blowing, but the air is no longer cool. If i turn the dial all the way off, then back on, the a/c will return, but for no guaranteed amount of time. Again, this is totally random, It's been happening the past two summers, so I've tried to record the circumstances each time, the only similarity is that it's always really hot outside. it happens on High, low, and everywhere in between, adjusting how cold or warm the air should be doesn't seem to make a difference - anyone else have this going on? Would love to know any possible remedies. Thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    It sounds like it could be a number of things; this service bulletin doesn't apply to your car, but it also gives some other causes of the issue you describe(see the top of page 2). I hope this helps!

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    A hot topic of late has been "Will they or won't they?" vis-à-vis initiating a recall for the Power Steering system of Mazda3 and Mazda5 cars. Well, apparently "they will":

    http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100817/us_nm/us_mazda_recall_5
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    The airbag indicator light symbol stays on in our '07 with 45,000 miles. The owners manual says to take it in to the dealer. Anyone else have this happen and if so is it a major repair?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    The light indicates that a fault has been detected in the SRS system. There is absolutely no way to tell what the problem is short of hooking it up to a diagnostic computer.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Needs to be scanned as roadburner says. Might be nothing more than a bad sensor.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    Thanks, that's kind of what I thought. I'm due for an oil change anyway, and will have the dealer run a diagnostic.

    This is the first "glitch" to show up on this vehicle - it's been very reliable and still drives like new.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    edited August 2010
    I wanted to share my latest experience with my 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door.....

    I had dinner with my parents on July 18th (Sunday) and my mom mentioned that she had just received a recall notice on her '07 Explorer. She was also having an ongoing problem with a radiator leak that they still hadn't fixed. I am self-employed and only had one client on the following Tuesday, so I told her I'd take it to have both items fixed. We traded cars that night and planned to switch back on Tuesday night (or whenever I felt like driving the 58-mile one-way trip from Atlanta to po-dunk)....

    My mom drives a school bus for special-needs children and rarely uses her car during the week. But on the same morning I took hers to the Ford dealer, she drove mine to a mandatory pre-back-to-school training meeting. She approached a red light intersection and came to a stop behind a 2004 BMW X3 SUV. A few seconds later, a 20-year girl in a 2008 Toyota Camry plowed into the back of my MZ3 at about 40mph! It was hard enough to knock my car 8-10 feet into the back of the BMW X3 with sufficient force to cause the driver's side airbag to deploy!

    First and foremost, the restraint systems in my Mazda3 did a very good job of protecting good my mom- although the airbag was deployed; it never made contact with her upper body or head (only her forearms and hands). The seatbelt pretensioner "fired" simultaneously with the airbag, which eliminated any slack in the belt and held her firmly in place against the seat back and headrest. She still has some soreness and bruising in her chest (I'll take her word for it!) where the seatbelt held her in position, but that is a far better outcome than even an inch or two of forward motion. The body's deceleration (often when it slams into something hard enough to stop it cold, like the dash, steering wheel or windshield) is one of the critical risks in accidents of this nature. So the safety systems did their job, which is what I expected of the car from day one- performed as expected!

    The amazing thing was the condition of the vehicle in terms of overall damage. It looked trashed, with both ends smashed and an airbag handing from the steering wheel. The cop, my mom and, even me when I saw it later that day, expected the car to be "totaled" (total loss). But the tow-truck driver remarked that he was amazed to find no leaking fluids of any kind, not a single drop, underneath my car! A few days later, I learned that the Radiator Core Support had been severely damaged in the frontal impact, but the radiator never leaked a drop!

    I had the car towed to the Acura/Honda body shop that I have always used for my Acuras and Hondas in the past. My brother-in-law has worked there for about 23 years and he's the only painter I'd ever allow near my car! They are a Direct Repair Shop for the insurer of the at-fault driver, but I insisted that my car be handled outside that program and they handled it the same as they would a cash customer (OEM parts only, no shortcuts and no insurer-imposed deadlines). The Body Shop Manager prepared the estimate himself and I was amazed once again at his findings-

    There was no damage to the frame/structure and every single part required for repair was "bolt-on"! The rear bumper cover, front bumper cover and grille (attached to front edge of hood) were the only visible, painted parts to be replaced. The underlying support structures of each bumper, radiator core support, hood latch and all airbag-related components still ran the total up to just over $6800! I'm surprised that they didn't 'total' it, especially when you add the $700 for the rental car they provided...(first a Dodge Avenger that was so hideous I refused to drive it, then a Toyota Corolla that smelled like feet and stale beer)!

    I got my Zoom-Zoom back on Thursday and I'm amazed at how great it looks and drives! I'm even more amazed that it still "feels" rock solid and I've only heard one noticeable squeak/rattle. The passenger seat was removed so the weight sensor could be replaced and a squeak was coming from one of the bolts at the rear of the seat track. A quick 1/4 turns cured that! I'm sure there will be at least a few new squeaks when cold weather arrives, but I don't think it's going to be all that bad.

    Sorry this ran so long, for those of you who lack the patience, attention span or interest to read it all, I'll sum it up in a few key phrases-

    Safe, protects driver very well
    Built like a tank, took hard double hit and still lives on....
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    igozoomzoom, wow that's impressive - thanks for sharing. And good to hear your Mom is OK!
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    edited September 2010
    Has anyone here changed the blower motor on a Mazda3? I have a 2008 2.0i. Last year at about 27K, the "fan blower unit motor" was replaced under warranty.

    Having the same problem this week. Compressor kicks on, air gets cold, but the fan blows very weakly and makes a soft droning/buzzing noise. Bad bearing in there, maybe? Last night wife says it wouldn't blow at all, but then later it did kick on again.

    Mazda dealer says it's out of warranty and wants $136 for the part and $369 for labor. I've found the part (BP4K61B10) online for $40. I don't (yet) own the Chilton or Haynes manual for this car since I've never needed to do any real work, but am awfully tempted to at least try before forking over $500. Is this part pretty easily accessible? I'm no mechanic, but I do basic stuff like oil changes, spark plugs, light bulbs on my own, and have done a few things like brakes and even front axles (different cars) with "supervision" from my father-in-law.

    The dealership recommends the OEM part, naturally, but I reckon an aftermarket part couldn't be any worse than the two OEM's I've already gone through in less than three years...

    So, scale of 1 to 10, how hard will this job be? Do I go for it, or do I bend over for the dealer? Thanks,
    -Andy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's tricky, requires a special tool and at one point, 4 hands. Book says 3.0 hours for a mechanic so double that. I'm sure that once a person has done this job a few times, it's a piece of cake, but just looking at the procedure, there are some fussy bits, and if you make certain wrong moves, parts drop into other parts, blah blah.

    I'd say it is not rocket science, but experience might be required.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    That's not encouraging... Which book is it that you got these details from? Now, the part as I'm seeing it online is not just the motor, but a whole "unit" including the wheel/fan. One friend says that if it's easily accessible, it should just be some mounting bolt a couple clamps and one electrical connection. Sounds like Mazda may have buried it pretty deep.

    I'm feeling adventurous (and cheap), but I've also got a pretty busy weekend already, and perhaps 2 more months of AC usage here in the Dallas area.

    Thanks for the very quick response, by the way!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I was looking at ALLDATA DIY (www.alldatadiy.com). You can get a subscription for $29 for the year, and it'll cover anything you need to do to your car (but it's good for one type of car only,the one you sign up).

    It's not that accessible. That's why it takes a pro 3 hours.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Okay, I've seen some diagrams... yikes. Someone on another site says his problem was not the fan itself but just the relay... certainly worth a try. Maybe the dealer just did the whole thing (blower motor plus relay) last time so they could screw Mazda for the warranty job. Seems like a motor really should last more than 14 months even in the worst conditions. Otherwise I'll just hope for nice weather, because this is not in the budget right now. Thanks for your help today.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yer welcome. I was also thinking that your problem may not be the motor itself. Usually when a blower motor craps out it either starts making lots of noise, or it just dies. Blower "anemia" usually is a condition caused by the blower resistor or something in the climate controls. I'm not familiar with the system in your car however.
  • phoenixvanphoenixvan Member Posts: 6
    We have a one year old 2010 Mazda 3. For the third time in the past two months (and the second time in the past two weeks), the battery is totally dead. First time, the dealership thought it was the battery. Second time, they checked and said there was nothing draining the battery that they could find (and I think re-charged teh battery?? I don't remember, I'll have to check.) Last was the third, so we jump-started it this morning to bring it to the dealership...again.

    I often hear a humming sound for some time after I turn the engine off, and I'm wondering if this has something to do with the battery issue. If it even is a battery issue.

    Has anybody had a similar problem with their Mazda 3? Any ideas? :confuse:

    Katy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wonder if there's a problem with your cooling fan sensor or relay, which allows the cooling fan to continue running for far too long after the car is shut down (it is normal for some cooling fans to run after the car switches off, but not for very long).

    It's possible the battery itself is no good--it should be "loaded-tested" to see if it falls on its face or not. Some weak batteries can start a car okay but haven't got any reserve capacity.
  • anayaelfanayaelf Member Posts: 8
    I had the same problem. I wrote about it earlier in this forum. I bought my 2010 Mazda 3 on May 1. I drove it off the lot and the amplifier was dead. I returned it a week later to get them to replace it. It took 2 weeks to replace the defective amp. Then the week after they replaced the amplifier, the battery died. I jumpstarted it and took it to the dealership. They replaced the battery. Another week later, the battery died again so I jumpstarted it and took it back to the dealership. They had the car for more than a month trying to figure out what could be killing the battery. They finally settled on the wiring harness being defective so they replaced that. I pick up the car, 4 days later the battery dies again. I return it to the dealership and I called Mazda to come see the car because I sent them a Lemon law letter. They came and figured out that the device I plugged into the car from my insurance company (Progressive) is what has been draining the battery every night. So I unplugged the device and sent it back. I haven't had a problem for the past month but we'll see if that was the real problem. I hope this helps.
  • becbbecb Member Posts: 2
    About 2 weeks ago i noticed when i drove my mazda 3 manual when i accelerated, it would gently jerk backwards and forwards, 5 minutes later it got really bad so it went straight to the dealer who serviced the car and said i needed a new fuel tank. I picked up the car and it was perfect for 10 minutes and then it happened again ad i had to get towed back to the dealer who then said it was the oxygen sensor. I just called him and he said that didn't fix the problem and they were still trying to figure out what it could be. Can anyone pls help me?
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    I recently had my 2005 M3 in for an oil change at the dealer. They had a note on the bill stating, "bearing noise, right front." Of course they were so busy no one could tell me what this meant, or how much it would cost to replace. I have noticed a humming noise when at highway speeds, but thought it was tire noise. How could they detect bearing noise after only driving the car 50 feet? How serious is it? I have 76k miles on the vehicle. Any ideas on a ballpark cost to replace?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A new hub and bearing is about $200 list price and labor for one side would be 1.8 hours. So, depending on your dealer's labor rate, this looks to be about a $400 job more or less 10%.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    Could it be just a misfire due to a simple thing like plugs or plug wires?
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