Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

phoenixvan

Well, the dealership kept our car for a week, trying to figure out what was going on. They never did find any unusual drain on the battery, and the battery tested fine multiple times. So, they called Mazda Technical Assistance to figure out what to try next. They verified that all systems (I would hope this includes the cooling fan) shut down within 5-8 minutes of turning the car off. Ultimately, Mazda Technical Assistance suggested doing a software re-boot for the computer systems in the car, which our dealership did.
Since we got the car back on September 17th, we've had no issues. I'm not confident that the issue is fixed, but so far, it has been fine. Hopefully the car is fixed and we don't have to pursue a lemon law replacement. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

arfellows

My daughter has a Mazda3 and we are replacing the thermostat using a mobile mechanice. I wanted to do it on my own. I have been told I need to do a software update after replacing the thermostat.

Mazda told him it would cost $105.00 to get the upgrade. This seems like a very high price.

I am wondering is the upgrade necessary.

Also, why would be the price be so expensive or cost anything at all.
thanks,

Rolland

mpg60

hey,

just thought i would post and see what others think. Purchased a new copper read gt sedan about two weeks ago. Yesterday after washing car and bringing into garage under flourescent lighting i noticed huge discolorations in the paint caused either by some chemical or tree sap. This is not noticeable but in certain lighting. but when you do see it it is not good. Whatever it was it is etched into the paint permanently.

would it seem reasonable that something like this would be covered under warranty if the dealership actually has to repaint the car?

Mr_Shiftright

If the discoloration happened because of something that attacked the paint, then this might fall under an insurance claim---I'd just let the dealer look at it and not offer your speculations. Just tell them the paint looks funny and you think it's a defect (which it might be). The dealer will probably call in a factory rep to come look at the car and determine if it is a warranty issue or not.

I rather doubt tree sap could do such a thing, and any chemical would have to have been pretty strong---so maybe it really is defective paint.

Mr_Shiftright

I never heard of such a thing. What year, what engine size?

mpg60

mpg60

not sure why i was having problems responding, but anyway it is a 2010 3 gt. the weird thing about this is the defects are not clearly visible in certain lighting. this will be the 5th mazda i have purchased from this dealership so i am certain they will take care of this for me. I am just afraid that down the road this could start being a problem if the clear coat starts to peel away etc. I know the cars on this dealers lot sit outside so i would expect a certain amount of oxidation, but this is beyond what it should be for a new car

saak

saak

Take it back to the dealer asap. This could be caused by the protective membrane being removed improperly. This happened to my 2010 3 i-touring one year ago. I noticed it right after I brought it home and put it under the flourescent garage lights. Dealer was instructed by Mazda to apply heat treatment which re-set the affected paint areas.

saak

All: Here are my notes, copied and pasted from my service records. Good luck in resolving any similar issues.

Car was returned to the dealer on 1 Dec 2009, a few days after initial pick-up on 27 Nov 2009, for repair of several small paint blemishes on the roof and the upper right side of the trunk lid. These areas were not noticed prior to pick-up. The clear coat had separated from the paint, apparently when the protective adhesive was removed after shipment. Heat treatment and re-leveling of the clear coat largely resolved the paint issues. Car was retrieved the next day.

anjy834u

This issue in mazda 3 was because of electrical components
Summary:
MAZDA IS RECALLING 25,400 MY 2010 MAZDA3 VEHICLES. A CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ENGINE HARNESS AND THE HOUSING OF STARTER MOTOR MAY BE INSUFFICIENT. DUE TO THIS, THE COVERING OF THE HARNESS MAY BE DAMAGED THROUGH VIBRATION DURING OPERATION POSSIBLY CAUSING A SHORT-CIRCUIT BETWEEN CERTAIN HARNESS WIRES AND THE STARTER HOUSING. A SHORT-CIRCUIT CAN RESULT IN ENGINE CONTROL MALFUNCTION AND/OR POOR SHIFT QUALITY.
Consequences:
THE MAIN FUSE MAY BLOW OUT CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL AND INABILITY OF RESTART, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL HAVE THE ENGINE HARNESS INSPECT AND ADD A PROTECTOR CLIP ON THE AFFECTED SECTION OF THE HARNESS. IF NECESSARY, THE HARNESS WILL BE REPAIRED. THIS SERVICE WILL BE PERFORMED FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON MAY 6, 2009. OWNERS MAY CONTACT MAZDA AT 1-800-222-5500.

shipo

Geez, you really had to dig deep for this one. You responded to a seven year old post with information regarding a current year car. How do you figure that is even remotely relevant?

beverley1

hi can anyone advise how to stop a very irritating door rattle on my mazda 3 drivers side. I am pretty sure its coming from the door but cant work out how to stop it

thanks Beverley

bobmazda3

Hello,

I have a 2006 Mazda3 for about 2 years, only 30,000 miles, recently, the CEL is on and off, not blinking, for many times. For example, it's on for 2 or 3 days and after start up, the light goes off and for another 10 days it's on again. In winter it happend more often, but in summer the light is always off. I check the CEL code is P0171, there is 4 possibilities for this code, (1) dirty/defective MAF sensor, (2) large vacuum leak, (3) fuel pressure low, (4) engine mechanical condition. I changed MAF sensor for a new one at meineke, and the tech double check the everything, but found nothing. Anyone has an idea about this problem? Thanks a lot!

--Bob

roadburner

You need to find a real mechanic- not just some guy who throws parts at the problem. Mazda has a specific troubleshooting procedure for each fault code, and that procedure needs to be followed.

crowheart

I just got back from having warranty work done on my 2009 Mazda 3 Hatch. They also told me I needed a Transmission flush(fluid burnt according to him),Engine flush (varnished) and injector service. This car only has 19,000 miles on it.

The owners manual doesn't even mention a trans fluid change out. An engine flush on a car with 19,000 miles? What the hell is varnished? What kind of injector service would I need?

Can someone please give me some advice? I really know next to nothing about cars.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...

shipo

Tell them to pound sand; they're trying to fleece you. If you want piece of mind, find a good local indy mechanic and have him (or her) take a good look-see.

FWIW, you should never-ever need an engine flush (assuming you've followed the factory recommendations for oil changes) or injector service, and unless you beat the snot out of your transmission, the factory fill of synthetic transmission fluid should last (at the bare minimum) sixty to one-hundred thousand miles.

crowheart

I feel like they are trying to rip me off. I did read on other Mazda 3 forums that the trans fluid is an issue on this car early on. I did check the fluid and it is not pink, the fluid is dark. I don't know what color the trans fluid should be at 19,000 miles though.
This is my wife's car and she is in her late 40's; there is no aggressive driving going on here. If the engine needs a flush at 19,000 miles I am going to sell the car. I can't believe they are trying to sell me 1,000 dollars worth of unnecessary garbage. Maybe the service adviser gets a commission.

shipo

If you want to mess with them a bit, have them put their recommendations in writing, and then mention that you might go and visit your local BBB.

gsimonds

My 2009 Mazda3 with only 12k miles - Brakes Squeaking/grinding when in Reverse and for the first km of driving. Brakes are very sensitive during this period. It usually occurs after car wash or rain/snow storm. After driving for 1 km or less it goes away. I’m led to believe Mazda has issued a service bulletins to correct this problem with caliper & brake pad replacement. My daughter’s 2010 Mazda3 does not experience this problem. Anyone else with this problem and/or type of Dealership fixes under warrenty?

crowheart

I actually went to an independent shop the fluid was dirty, but he used Valvoline MaxLife V-324 I am not sure if this is the correct trans fluid he put in there!

crowheart

I posted a message about dealer maintenance in another thread because they were trying to up sell me additional services(Engine Flush,Injector cleaning). They did say the trans fluid was dirty which it was. I took the 2.3 auto trans car with 19,000 miles to an independent shop and he flushed the trans with Valvoline MaxLife V-324. I don't think this fluid is designed for the Mazda 3. The Manual states ATF M-V I went to Valvoline website and I can't find any reference to Mazda 3 and that fluid. Can anyone enlighten me a bit here?

Thanks...

mymazdalemon

My check engine light is on with error code P2004- Shutter valve stuck open. The dealer told me to replace the whole manifold (which didn't make sense to me) but I changed it anyway. After replacing it with a used part, the same code came back on. The dealer is telling me to replace the manifold because the one I put on is bad. What are the odds that both manifolds have the same exact shutter valve problem? Is this a part that should be recalled if it's consistently a problem? Since the shutter valve is just a plastic flap, should't the valve, hose, wire, or actuator that controls the flap need to be replaced, not the manifold itself?

mekrain

I have a rim that is corroding and needs to be replaced. I have checked some websites that sell 2005 Mazda 3 17" rims, but there seems to be 4 different options and I can't figure out which is the right choice as they all seem to be silver alloy 17" rims. Does anyone know how to determine the correct rim. I am wondering if I call the Mazda dealership if they can provide me a specific part number to determine the right choice. Thanks.

igozoomzoom

"I have a rim that is corroding and needs to be replaced. I have checked some websites that sell 2005 Mazda 3 17" rims, but there seems to be 4 different options and I can't figure out which is the right choice as they all seem to be silver alloy 17" rims."

The 17" alloy wheel design and appearance was identical on 2004-2006 models! The only "possible" exception is on the 2005 sp23 sedan and 5-door, which are the same design but appear to have a slightly different finish. The reason I say "possible" is because I can't find any documented proof that the sp23 had a unique wheel finish, but most Mazda enthusiast sites agree that it had more of a satin-like finish. Unless your 2005 is one of those limited production Carbon Grey sp23 models, it's a moot point.

I'm not sure why you're seeing four different 17" wheels, but most sites list two 17" variants for 2004 thru 2006. They are identical in appearance but one is noted "Hitachi" and the other "Lio Fung" and they are PRICED the same! Hitachi and Lio Fung are the two suppliers than manufactured these wheels for Mazda. Whether a particular vehicle left the factory with wheels from Hitachi or wheels from Lio Fung is/was totally random!

For the purposes of wheel replacement and matching, they are interchangeable and it doesn't matter which you ones you choose! With that said, most enthusiast forums/sites suggest choosing the "Hitachi" if given the option. The Hitachi is made in Japan and the Lio Fung is made in China. The Lio Fung is "allegedly" of lower quality than the Hitachi, but there is no proof, just hearsay and opinions that seem to be based on the stereotype that a product made in China is inherently low quality.

I have a 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door (all U.S.-spec 5-doors had the 17" alloys in 2006...the only 's' model lacking them was the 's' Sport (or base) 4-door sedan, which had 5-spoke 16" alloys. Back in 2008, I ran off the right shoulder of the road to avoid a head-on collision with a Chevy Suburban. It was 3-4 feet over the double yellow line into my lane and I met it in a sharp curve. The car's amazing handling capabilities saved my life because I had less than 50 feet to maneuver out of the Suburban's path and we were both traveling as 45-50mph! No other car I've ever driven would have been able to swerve that quickly while still maintaining total control and stability! I have no doubt that my Mazda3 saved my life that day!

....To Be CONTINUED.,....

crowheart

I think that is common for the 2009 Mazda 3. When there is moisture on the brakes they squeal when going in reverse, and only when first moving the car. If you have a grinding noise that would be a separate issue. I have the 2009 Mazda 3 as well and if it has been wet or raining the brakes will squeel in reverse when i first take the car out in the morning(after it has been sitting all night). That quickly passes though once the brakes dry out(20 seconds or a bit more). This is a known event and not an issue!

zcarrera629

So I have a manual 2008 Mazda 3, and just recently as I was driving, my car started to sputter, like jerk 2 times, and then continue, jerk 2 times, and continue.... it was basically the jerking feeling that happens when you start to go to slow for the gear that you are in until the car stalls out. Sometimes when I would try to accelerate, it wouldn't. I pulled over, turn off the car. It started back up fine, but the sputtering still continues. Once when it sputtered, the battery light even flashed on real quick but went away. I just had put new gas in the car (it's still over the "Full" line) too. Is this likely to be a bad batch of gas? A problem with the fuel filter? Or is my fuel pump about to go out? Thanks!

shipo

I'm thinking probably none of the above. Were I in your shoes I'd have the OBD-II codes read; they'll at least point you (or more probably your mechanic) in the right direction.

With the above said, I'd be looking at the oxygen sensors before anything else.

jae04

My Mazda 3, year 2006, today I went to get into my car and the stereo speakers were popping, 2 times every 5 seconds... not a fuzzy pop, but almost like a bass pop sound. And it was doing that without the key in it. so then I got in , and the stereo won't work at all. It won't turn on, it'll spit out cd's and take them in, but nothing else. What should I do? what is going on? I don't know anything about cars except how to change my oil, check fluids, and gas it up... literally. HELP

autonomous

the stereo speakers were popping, 2 times every 5 seconds... not a fuzzy pop, but almost like a bass pop sound. And it was doing that without the key in it. so then I got in , and the stereo won't work at all. It won't turn on, it'll spit out cd's and take them in, but nothing else.

Is the fuse blown?
Have you tried the radio to see if it's working?
Does the word "CD" appear in the display?
Is something stuck inside the CD player (like a bad CD or a CD label)?

arnr

hello. trying to get info on how much wud it cost me approx to fix madza 3 2005 codes P0455 and P2187. evaporative emissioin pressure and fuel systems and injectors leaks. $1200 is how much i was qouted. is this reasonable? i realize that i shudn't be joking w mazda parts but $1200? i will i guess if i had to. :-((

thanks...

jae04

Hey, It wasn't the fuse. I washed my car seats and carpet the day before, and I am guessing I got something wet because now it is working again. the whole thing wouldn't work, not the radio or cd player. but it still read the time. it was weird. but whatever it was, has fixed itself. Lucky me eh?!

autonomous

whatever it was, has fixed itself.
I like problems like that ...

igozoomzoom

I washed my car seats and carpet the day before, and I am guessing I got something wet because now it is working again.

I'm curious, when you say you WASHED your seats and carpet....how did you go about doing that?

dride

MY CEL went on Sunday. Not blinking, just solid. When I got home I ran through the manual, checking all the possible culprits that I could. Turns when I last filled up with gas, I just put on the cap and closed the fuel door without screwing in the cap. Now I am wondering will this light eventually go off or do I have to go someplace and get it "cleared". I have refilled the tank once and the CEL is still on. The car runs fine, and it is more of annoyance, but any assistance is appreciated!

PF_Flyer

CEL (at least on vehicles I've owned) will go off after a certain number of starts or miles. I just had a loose gas cap CEL go off on my one car last night.

I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere so I've considered getting an OBD II scanner to check the codes (just in case it's something serious) and reset the light myself. They're not terribly expensive and could keep a garage from telling me the light is something that it's not!

dride

Thanks for the info PF Flyer! Back in my VW days I had a scanner, and that thing paid itself off in about a month with all the "warning lights" that went off in the VW.

I probably did the worst thing possible and just disconnected the battery. No more CEL. If it pops again, I'll know it must be something in addition to the fuel cap issue, and I'll take it to an auto zone or look at buying a scanner since the M3 is now getting in the high mile range. In the M3, where do I plug in the scanner?

Again, thanks for the advice!

PF_Flyer

The OBD port will be under the dash near the steering wheel.

roadburner

On my 2007 MS3 the port is located to the left of the steering wheel in the lower part of the dash fascia.

Mr_Shiftright

Caution: You shouldn't post your e-mail in public forums due to the threat of being spammed. Also we encourage members to post and share technical info publicly so that everyone can benefit.

I'd recommend you delete your post and re-post the request without the e-mail address.

As for your problem, the dealer's parts department may be able to assist you.

Visiting Host

blueguydotcom

Last night my seatbelt broke. I called the dealer about dropping the car off. They told me even though service is open Saturday, they are booked and cannot help until later this week. Yeah...so not cool. BMW/Mini service, when I had problems (and with a lemoned 335i i had ton of issues), I could drop the car off and get it worked on any time.

PF_Flyer

Not sure why this is a Mazda "problem". If I have an sudden need for a service issue on a car and want to get it in TODAY, I'm at the mercy of people who have service booked ahead of me. If they can get me in, it's a plus. But if it's booked and there's no slot to fit me in, there's not much that they can do and I'm going to have to wait.

blueguydotcom

Good dealers block off time for scheduled appoints and make room for problems that pop up (80:20 kinda thing). Reminds me of bad restaurants that block off all their tables to resos only... you just killed the walk-in patron and thus took a restaurant into the unfriendly zone. I was happy the dealer had saturday hours but not real happy that they don't leave any space for walk-ins.

I've had 3 BMWs and they all seemed to have issues at odd times and I could pull into any BMW dealer mon-sat and get the car worked on that day. Guess I got spoiled. Not real happy with my Mazda3 anyway (shoddy engine, shoddy interior quality, bad tranny) but this kinda solidified my view that they're not customer focused.

sunshine01

I just replace the EGR valve on a Mazda 3 and it idles high, and when on cruise control it "gasps for air". What could the problem be?

autonomous

I just replace the EGR valve on a Mazda 3
Did you do the job yourself?

roadburner

It sounds like a vacuum leak.

gpalmer16

First Problem:

I have a Mazda 2006 with 95k on it. Recently the Speedonmeter stopped working but after car was shut off and turned on it went back to normal. Couple of weeks later while on a roundtrip to the beach speedometer quit working again. This time it looks like it is quitting for good because it has yet to come back on.

I have noticed as well the gas has not gone down at all, and all lights are on; Check Engine, ABS, Break etc...After reading over the forum I've come to the conclusion that it is a Speed Sensor. As I am not in the mechanic car world I have no idea what I am doing. So would like to make sure of the ins and out before going about replacing this part. I have read it is very easy and I am trying to save on not paying for labor at the dealer.

Second Problem:

The car is having major oil consumption issues as well. I got the oil changed with the dealershop here in Portland, OR. Then around a week afterwards I started hearing weird clicking sound switching between 2nd gear and 3rd. I checked the oil to find there was nothing in it. I took immedietly to closest best reviewed mechanic in the city who told me there was not a drop of oil in the car.

I read issues on this forum with these being a problem with dealerships not putting oil in or not putting enough in. I'm afraid this oil problem has also caused issues with the car as now I frequently hear that noise when switching from 2nd to 3rd. I have never seen an oil leak but after 2000 miles from the oil change the oil light is now blinking on and off in random intervals(5min-30min).

Seems like a mechanical issue but would like to find out from others what they think. Really appreciate the feedback. Thanks!

shipo

Most oil related issues following an oil change on the Mazda3 are isolated to the models with the 2.3 liter mill. Why? Improper replacement of the oil-filter housing gasket and/or cracking the housing itself.

gpalmer16

Hmmm... That is good to know. Thank you for that. Its good to go into the dealer pretending you know what your talking about. At least for me...hah.

autonomous

I checked the oil to find there was nothing in it. I took immedietly to closest best reviewed mechanic in the city who told me there was not a drop of oil in the car.

Can one drive without a "drop of oil in the car"? Does that mean you got it towed when you took it to the mechanic?