Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

caugn

Exact same issues here on a 2004 Mazda 3. Anyone have any suggestions or fixes or ideas of where to start looking?

Mr_Shiftright

Hmmm....perhaps the mechanic meant "not a drop of oil on the dipstick". If there was no oil in the engine, you'd have seen a red oil pressure warning light, heard some horrendous noises, and come to a grinding halt. So there had to be at least a few quarts in there.

dride

I had a situation last year where the tech installed my oil filter incorrectly. I was leaking small amounts of oil, and large amounts of oil when the vehicle was at an angle. I didn't realize it though since the ground was so wet from rain. I realized I had about 3-4 quarts of oil on the floor of my garage once the water dried up. The oil didn't. There was not a drop on the dipstick, and I was hesitant to drive back to the dealer, but I did. Turns out there was about a quart or so left. Enough to keep the warning lights off, and the engine running,but not enough to register on the dipstick. Glad I wasn't on a long trip.

dride

I've been getting these two codes off and on for a month or two. When I read about them on the internet, responses are all across the board. My car runs fine, mileage is decent. Should I pay the money to go to the dealer and see if they can fix the issue? A lot of posts I read on M6 boards say there may be nothing wrong. Then some say vacuum leak leading to too lean of a mixture, which must cause problems for my emissions. Then a few posts said those codes always lead to anything from a fuel pump replacement to a simple purge valve. Any thoughts? I just see this costing $$$'s at the dealer, if they even are able to fix it. It's an 05 with 86k so I am out of any warranty.

lovedmymazda

That's what happened to my Mazda after a routine service check. The oil filter cap wasn't put on properly which caused a small, undetectable leak over several months. The oil light never went on. Resulted in serious damage to the engine with only 45,000 miles on the car. I'm still driving it (no road trips, just city driving and frequent oil changes), but the engine does need to be replaced. It was a lesson to me that the oil light doesn't always save the day--has to do with pressure, not quantity...or some such thing. Not helpful. Blows my mind since it was in perfect condition before this and had been routinely serviced.

Mr_Shiftright

Well there's no magic bullet here. Computer codes don't tell us exactly which component is defective. No car computer yet made can do that. What it tells us is which system or circuit is registering a malfunction or is in distress.

The only proper way is a step by step diagnosis based on the code. There are a list of possibilities, so the technician eliminates them one by one. That's how you do it.

Sure, you can guess, and replace the most likely culprit, but that gets expensive and may not work at all.

I suppose as a first step you could research whatever Technical Service Bulletins might apply to this code; then you could test for intake manifold leaks (vacuum leaks) and exhaust leaks, both of which might be conspicuous. After that, you work down the list, taking on the easiest ones first, such as replacing your fuel filter, cleaning your MAF sensor and Throttle Positioning sensor (you can google or YouTube to learn how to do this).

AFter that, it gets more technical and you probably have no choice but to visit a qualified repair shop.

autonomous

That is a horrible story!

When you say caused a small, undetectable leak over several months does that mean you did not see any accumulation of oil dripping on the floor of your garage?

When you got the oil refilled did they tell you how much was left in the engine? My understanding is that a typical engine takes about 4 to 5 litres of oil.

I'm guessing that the culprits did not confess. Was the oil change done at a dealership or elsewhere (like a quick lube place).

roadburner

It was a lesson to me that the oil light doesn't always save the day--has to do with pressure, not quantity...or some such thing. Not helpful. Blows my mind since it was in perfect condition before this and had been routinely serviced.

Did you know that your engine comes equipped with a dipstick?
And that you should use it to check the oil level on a regular basis?

dride

8/13/11 Follow up:

I finally took my 3 to the shop and paid for the $100.00 diagnostic test. The result was a faulty canister purge solenoid. The estimate was $167.40 for the part and $135.00 for labor. The test showed my engine was burning 15-20% more fuel due to this faulty solenoid. Everything else checked out fine. Does this seem like a reasonable price to pay? They had to order the part, so I won't get it fixed until Monday. I guess the next fix will be the airbag light. I wish there was a longer warranty on that one.

dride

I see there is a service bulletin for this part (TSB: 01-025/05). Because many of these solenoids were faulty. Is the repair expense resulting from a Service Bulletin only covered by Mazda if I am still under my original 48,000 warranty? I have 88k miles, and am guessing I am out of luck, but want to be sure before shelling out $300.00. I appreciate any knowledge anyone can offer.

autonomous

I have 88k miles
How old is the car?
Have you had the car serviced at a Mazda dealership?
When did the issue originally arise (that is, prior to the recent diagnosis)?

dride

I have a 2005 Mazda 3 S. It has 88,000 miles on it. I had the fuel pump replaced at 10,000 miles and a PCV valve at 30,000. It started bringing up a P2177 code at about 87,000. I did have all of the warranty repairs and regular oil changes done at a Mazda dealer. Now that I am out of warranty, they are just too expensive. However, I just paid $391 to get the purge canister solenoid replaced (the dealer quoted me $567.20), and it is still running lean, so the next step according to the service bulletin is to replace the intake manifold gaskets (#MS96634) and the PCV valve hose (#LF62-13-895) That was quoted to me at $431.91, but the mechanic (who I trust) said he did notice the whining noise when the engine was cold coming from the rear of the car. I just started noticing it as well and he diagnosed that as possibly the fuel pump. They showed me the hose when it was on the hoist and I can see that it would take 3 hours of labor to get to it. He kind of mapped it out for me based on the bulletin...A) purge canister solenoid PCV Valve hose C) Fuel pump I get it and unfortunately this is getting expensive. He quoted me $600 to replace the fuel pump. The deal with the fuel pump is as he explained it to me was the valve inside the pump is malfunctioning and the noise I hear is air getting pushed through the fuel line. The biggest symptoms of a bad fuel pump are rough starts and poor idling, both I had the first time but not this time (yet). My question is, what can I expect next? 88,000 is NOT a lot of miles for a car these days. Two fuel pumps in 80,000 miles just doesn't seem like a good product. So I am kinda torn; do I shell out another $1k to fix what's wrong now and cross my fingers I get 4-5 more good years out of it, or trade it off on something newer? The only repairs I have paid myself are fluid changes and brakes, so I don't think its a total lemon...But it may be starting to be a lemon. Thoughts would really be appreciated!

Mr_Shiftright

Well you don't replace a fuel pump without a fuel pressure test. If he hasn't done that, all he's doing is guessing with your checkbook. If pressure is fine, fuel pump is fine. If it's too high, then replace the pump. If it's too low, it might be the pump or you might have a clogged fuel filter.

There are many other causes of a P2177, including air leaks, oxygen sensor or sensor heater malfunctions, bad MAF sensor and even a leaking exhaust system.

roadburner

Well you don't replace a fuel pump without a fuel pressure test. If he hasn't done that, all he's doing is guessing with your checkbook.

A friend calls it "flailing"- throwing parts(and the customer's money) at a problem instead of using a logical diagnostic procedure.

dride

He did the fuel pressure test right away. It was reading 20psi which I was told was well below the specs. $931.00 for the fuel pump and $431 for the PCV valve and hose, including labor. When I drove it there today, it was running terribly. Whenever I pressed the gas pedal the power would disappear. I just found it odd because the first time I had the fuel pump replaced, it was starting rough, idling poorly, and killing. This time there was none of that. Just a loud screech when I turned on the ignition, a whine while it warmed up and NO power on acceleration.

Mr_Shiftright

Well low fuel pressure is not necessarily the fuel pump. That pressure test is just step #1. I would have replaced the fuel filter at that point and re-tested and also checked the fuel pressure regulator.

dride

The fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator were also both checked and they were working correctly. The car runs like it is brand spanking new now. No screech when starting and no whine while warming up. The mechanic told me it may say Mazda on the hood, but all of the parts are stamped with Ford. Most of the parts they got from the local Ford dealer since Mazda did not have them in stock. The total bill was $1700.00 for a new purge canister solenoid, PCV valve, breather hose, and new fuel pump.

Mr_Shiftright

Well that's great. I did wonder if you needed all the other stuff, but what the heck, it's done and you're happy, so good for you and your mechanic.

dride

Yeah, I built a new relationship with a garage, and my car runs good now. I wouldn't say that I'm super happy to shell out $1,700 for repairs on a car that I have completed all the required factory maintenance on, always on schedule. Two fuel pump replacements under 90,000 miles is not something that seems reasonable. All and all I am happy that I can drive my car again. In the past I have been drinking the Mazda kool aid, but I now wonder about the reliability of their parts (this probably holds true with all car companies). The new PCV valve hose they replaced had been modified to include an additional lining to protect from rubs and cracks. So at least the parts are evolving to be more durable.

I have also been turned off by the dealers in my area. I was not surprised that three Mazda dealers in my area did not have any of the parts in stock, and they had to go through a Ford dealer. In speaking with my mechanic, he did question whether or not the original fuel pump was actually replaced. The dealer didn't include any diagnostic information for my records when they gave me the replacement invoice. they also didn't talk about any of it with me, but maybe that's just how they are. I just remember they needed the car for three days, and being a two car family, it was painful to only have one car for three days. At least now I have some place that gets it in, diagnoses the problem, and fixes it. Not waiting or having to schedule a week out is nice. Time is money too.

It is all good now. My car runs good again *knock on wood*. My budget is not so good, but when your car doesn't run (regardless of what kind it is), options are limited. I appreciate all of the help on this forum! If I ever do it again, I'm going to be an ASE certified mechanic. I definitely plan to encourage my son to give that trade serious consideration.

fkdspm

This is one of several items in a "Pack" added by the dealer. These usually also include fabric protectant and sometimes pinstripes and other superfluous stuff such as "Krex" added to an oil change, none needed, some bogus. When the Mada 626 first arrived, one dealer was charging $895 for "wharfage," whatever that is. As an extra money maker, I stripe cars for dealers, charge $20-25. Their price? $89-109.
Do not get any of this. It's substantial additional markup to the dealer with little benefit to you.
And then there's the F & I...Ask for the "buy rate" on the interest rate. If disclosed, this could be quite an education!

shipo

Are you aware you responded to a post more than six years old? I'm thinking bala77 has long since bought the car, used it, and possibly already disposed of it by now.

Karen_S

animalman29

Wife's 08 Mazda 5 had same problem. Took dealer forever to find out was a board with bad resistor. They fixed under warranty.

soundhealing

My 07 3 sport has just failed emissions testing - good news is with 78K plus miles the catalytic converter is supposedly the issue and is covered until 80K. Yay!

However, when I took it to the dealer they said the front struts are leaking and they would charge me $165 for EA strut and with parts and labor, $702 to replace them.

They also say the trans oil pan is leaking and would cost $235 plus tax to fix.

Oh - and rear brake pads replaced - no estimate on that.

Last time I had the 60K maintenance done there plus some other things they came up with it was over $900. Frankly, I can't afford these maintenance costs and am going to get another estimate from an independent. Scary though because who knows if they know what they're doing?

I know nothing of car mechanics and always feel vulnerable to rip off. Any thoughts on whether these prices are outrageous? Any advice?

Mr_Shiftright

All 4 struts leaking at once? Doesn't seem likely, although the price for parts and labor is not outrageous. Also don't see why we couldn't first try to snug up the trans oil pan bolts a bit (not too tight!).

From what I'm seeing, I think you should take the vehicle to a trusted independent shop for verification of these faults.

soundhealing

They said it was the front struts. Dealer said the oil pan was cracked. I will check out a local mechanic that was recommended this week and post what they say.

gcarolmarie

I have a 2010 Mazda 3. Tire pressure warning light came on one week after I purchased the car. Dealer said it was due to a bent wheel rim so I had the rim replaced at 325.00 and bingo, light comes back on one month later. Dealer said it may have to do with weather temperature; that's ridiculous.
My Mazda has only 6K miles on it.
Dealer can't explain the cause. I checked pressure and it was a 32 psi. There is obviously a problem that Mazda does not want to recognize. This is my 7th Mazda car in 19 years; no more Mazdas for me.

Mr_Shiftright

Did anyone use the special tool that checks the battery life in the tire pressure sensors?

Also some cars have a sensor in the spare tire, which can energize the light as well. Not sure if your car fits that profile.

this light periodically goes on in my MINI--I just shut it off with a scan tool and don't see it again for 6 months or so.

krisinua

I have a 2004 mazda 3 4 speed automatic and 3rd gear is slipping i did a tranny sevice and it is still slipping .1st and 2nd gears are fine.When it goes in to 3rd it slipps then into 4th it is fine again.Could this be the tsm? (transmission shifting module)or a new transmission? ive only had this car for 1 year and there are no dummy lights on.It has about 75,000 miles on it. HELPPPP

halser

I have an 06 Mazda 3 S with 82k. I have the 2.3 with a 5 speed. I noticed my alternator belt is starting to fray. I looked at dayco belts and its looks like the air conditioner belt is a stretch belt. A special tool is needed to install the belt. Has anybody run across this? Are there special instructions to change this belt? Hal

fordnuts

2007 Mazda 3 HB, Airbag light came on around 100K (now 107K). Thought it was due to me placing backpack on seat for many years and not latching seatbelt. Anyways, paid the $99 diagnostic check, when I had it in for other fluid changes, and they indicated/recommended that at a minimum the wire that leads to the AB sensor would have to be replaced, which is part of the steering column harness. So $200 for part and 300 for labor was their fix. I didn't take the bait. This should be a recall item! Risk is the AB may not deploy (on passenger side), but always you and passengers wear your seat belt. Letter to Mazda forthcoming.

fordnuts

The recommended change of the tranny fluid is 30K. If heavy city driving, the fluid will wear down a little quicker, more highway, perhaps slower. So yes it seems quicker than the 60K on older vehicles, these smaller squirrle engines burn it up quicker, supposedly, and should be changed out more frequently. going 30-35K is fine. Now the injector service can be postponed longer as long as you you put Costco/BJs gas in car every fillup. Some variety will help prolong buildup. Just did first injector service at 100K. It was a little sluggish and probably could have be done anywheres from 60-80K. Oil changes with darn expensive paper filter, of course can go 4-7K depending driving conditions.

fordnuts

Strut replacement issue is bogus. Slight leak, no big deal. Got same $600+ quote for parts and labor. Can't imagine the struts will completely blow out. Could be another batch on Non-genuine parts they used for that. (note, they give you that line when they replace somehting, all genuine parts). Check another location or 2 for quotes.

Yes you can go to other mechanics, just ask the frequency of fixing newer Mazdas. Maintenance costs on these dam buggers is ridiculous, but pick and choose repairs, especially based on the neediest. Dealers will always find something to fix or replace. They are looking to make money.

Mr_Shiftright

The little jig tool comes with the new AC belt and there should be instructions with it. If not you can subscribe to All Data DIY for $26.95 for the entire year, and get instructions on just about any repair for your car.

Looks like you'll have to cut the AC belt to get at the alternator belt, which uses an automatic tensioner.

shipo

"Maintenance costs on these dam buggers is ridiculous, but pick and choose repairs, especially based on the neediest."

Seriously? Maybe my Mazda3 is an anomaly as it has yet to cost me a dime in unscheduled maintenance. The thing is, other than the autotragic transmission, I've yet to hear of consistent issues with this car, and since I won't have a car unless it has three pedals under the dash, I don't even have to worry about that.

scwmcan

Nope not an anomaly, neither of our 2007 Mazda 3 s have needed any unscheduled maintenance, we are down to one ( I needed even better fuel efficiency for my commute) but it is still going strong with just oil changes and one set of tires, the only problem if you want to call it that is that both of them had the top of the shift knob come off ( the insert with the shift pattern on it) annoying but hardly a mechanical nightmare. I am sure there are many more like us, we just don't hear from them. I'll be considering aa sky active 3 along with a new Imprezza and whatever else might have excellent economy (at least close to my diesel smart car) when it is time to change cars next.

mo8684

I know this is a bit late; however, I also have a 2008 Mazda3 and I had to replace a blower motor around 30k miles. I am now at about 60k miles and my car is in the shop to replace the blower motor again. So, in about 3.5 years, I've had to replace two of them.

I don't know if this is a recurrent problem or if we were just "lucky." Nevertheless, it seems to me that the blower motor shouldn't have to be replaced as frequently.

autonomous

I don't know if this is a recurrent problem or if we were just "lucky." Nevertheless, it seems to me that the blower motor shouldn't have to be replaced as frequently.
Sounds like bad luck.

Was the first case covered under warranty?

What is the cost involved for the part and service? My understanding is that this is a relatively easy fix.

dride

My 2005 M3 just turned over 100k miles. My garage recommended doing the following based on the service schedule.
1. Replace power steering fluid and flush $112.63
2. Replace brake fluid and flush $65.44
3. Engine tune up and replace sparkplugs $145.99 (How hard are the plugs to replace?)
4. Recommended coolant change and flush, but I do that one myself.

Of course the big ticket item is shocks and struts, which will cost about $815.00. I can tell they need replacing. They did an alignment test and my right rear is -3.1 on the camber.

I just sunk about $1,300 or so into the vehicle back in August with a new fuel pump and misc sensors.

Is there anything else I should be replacing? More importantly, is there anything else I should be thinking about replacing pro-actively (timing chain, water pump, etc). I am at that point where the debate starts on whether or not to start looking for something new, as the high ticket repairs could start draining me. I do travel a bit and reliability is something I am starting to think about after the fuel pump experience back in August. I welcome any thoughts or wisdom.

autonomous

sunk about $1,300 or so into the vehicle back in August with a new fuel pump and misc sensors ... big ticket item is shocks and struts, which will cost about $815 ... at that point where the debate starts on whether or not to start looking for something new, as the high ticket repairs could start draining me
Ouch! Over $2K in less than a year is a bit rough. But the car is getting on and these sound like legit changes. So, if you love the car and plan on keeping it at least a couple of more years, it may be worth investing. Personally, I'd start looking for a replacement so that I'd be ready before the next whopper (e.g. transmission) comes.

anything else I should be thinking about replacing pro-actively (timing chain, water pump, etc).
Timing chain should be fine but the water pump is likely to come up for replacement if it is the original one. The costly part of this job is the labor getting to the pump and not the pump itself.

dride

Actually it is a manual, so I am sure the clutch will need replacement eventually. Any ideas what that costs to replace? Also, is there anything I am missing that I should be replacing. I've made the decision to stick with it since the M3 has been paid off for three years now, and I do enjoy not having a car payment. I believe since I follow the required maintenance schedule it should give me a few hundred thousand miles.

autonomous

Also, is there anything I am missing that I should be replacing.
I checked the reliability information provided by Consumer Reports and the 2005 sedan is listed as "Average" with Paint/Trim being a problem area that is rated as Worse than Average. For the 2005 hatchback, there are three problem areas: Climate system, Suspension and Paint/Trim which are all rated Below Average. Based on this, I think your mechanic's recommendations make sense.

I am sure the clutch will need replacement eventually. Any ideas what that costs to replace?
No. Why not ask your mechanic? He might be able to give you a time frame when to expect the repair.

autonomous

Recently, I bought from a Mazda dealership a set of silver door side grips & a silver dashboard decorative panel to add a little relief to the black plastic in the cabin.

Installing the door side grips was a breeze (took under 15 minutes) largely due to the simple & clear instructions included with the parts.

Installing the dashboard decorative panel was a bit more work (about an hour). Unfortunately, there were no instructions and so I had to rely on a YouTube video which I happened to find by browsing. That video turned out to be an excellent guide. I could not imagine doing this installation without that lucky find of a video.

Have you added any accessories or made any modifications to your Mazda3 on your own? I'm interested in hearing where people find the information or instructions on how to DIY.

roadburner

http://www.mazdas247.com
http://www.mazda3forums.com
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org

All three sites have DIY topics and threads.

autonomous

Perfect ... it's just what I was hoping to find. Thanks roadburner!

piper13

Should a shift solenoid make a clicking should when you shake it? It is way too high 131 ohms

dride

I need to replace the lower mesh grill (between the foglights) on my 2005 Mazda 3. I tried ordering from partsgeek.com and the one they shipped does not fit (even though it said it was supposed to). I can not find the OEM part number for this part. The back of the plastic reads, "BN8F-501T1" Does anyone know the part # for this? I've done a bunch of google searches and I can find what the # of replacement grill inserts, but not the OEM #. Thanks for any help!

roadburner

I suggest trying Onlinemazdaparts.com

Mr_Shiftright

doesn't the dealer have this part? They aren't always the most expensive option.

BMW540

I was driving today when the brake petal got hard and there was little or no response. Threw it into neutral and got the car to stop. After waiting a couple of minutes, the brakes felt ok and I was able to make it home. any ideas? Thanks
BMW