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I'm thinking of getting the Mazda3, but would like to get the 06 version not the 05. Anyone know when the 2006 is coming out :confuse: I still don't see it on inventory when I check online thru my local dealer.
Alex :shades:
Santa Monica dealer only has three 2005 left, two wagons, one sedan. They seemed pretty proud of the 3s but would deal on RX8 and 6. I have low expectations from any of the T.O. dealers, maybe this can break the pattern!
I would appreciate any more insight you can give into how your transaction went as I would like to know where their limits are.
I really doubt the Edmunds comparisons would have had the same ranking if the base Mazda3 i model would have been used. I think the old body style Civic would have won. So would you then be saying - buy the Civic because Edmunds said to - go buy one?
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Solicited dealer quotes via Edmunds today. Will report back w/ status when there's something to tell.
sales dept of a dealer as well as I can get that same price due to having the S-plan from work. Has anyone gotten a Mazda 3 under invoice is that unrealistic.
Thanks for you answers in advance.
Civic LX 4-door sedan, automatic: 8 in stock, all $16,960
Civic LX 4-door sedan, "value package": 4 in stock, all $15,210
Civic LX "special edition", 1 in stock, $17,610
Civic Si 2-door hatchback, manual, 1 in stock, $19,735
Seems like the Mazda and Honda are equivalently priced.
Keep in mind those "quotes" often include rebates, special incentives, "college grad" discounts, etc. My Mazda dealer has a full-page ad in every Sunday paper offering Mazda3i's for under $14K.
Meade
Civic EX SE best dealer price: $17,400 with 2.9% financing for 60 months
Mazda 3s (5 speed with 6 disk pkg): $17,255. I did have to go to a bank and got 4.9% on 60 months, but I did get the Gerber rebate for $500.
The deal breaker for Honda was they would only give me $6k on my trade b/c they said the market was soft. Mazda stepped up and gave me $7.5k.
Other than the trans, the options were the same. But the 3 rides so much smoother.
Both sales depts were outstanding.
I was considering 2 dealers: a 2006 standard car and a 2005 with the ABS/SAC package only. After a lot of back-and-forth. I opted for the 2005 and got it for $157 over invoice (not incl taxes). That is, $16942.
Good luck to everyone!
The Mazda 3i from your local dealer that is under 14K most likely is manual and defintely doesn't have a Power Package which invoices for 1250 on the 05.
" In order to give you the best price on a new MAZDA3, I need to get some more information from you about the vehicle you’re looking to purchase."
They then request that I give them a call. Now, if I actually wanted to talk to you, I would have called, not e-mailed, comprende???
Curious as to others experiences w/ internet managers. I'm going to reply, via e-mail, with the details of the Mazda I prefer - s trim w/ ABS, etc., and see if I can make some initial headway w/o picking up the phone.
Anyone else care to share their internet experience or point me to a previous post?
Locate the vehicle you want via dealer's on-line inventory list. IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, locate very similar vehicles on COMPETING dealer's list.
Determine (via Edmunds) the actual invoice price of the vehicle. ALSO determine the amount of dealer holdback (I think the Mazda holdback is 2% of the MSRP). Holdback is the amount the dealer gets back from the manufacturer after the vehicle is sold. Also determine what rebates you may be eligible for.
Take the invoice price, subtract the rebates, and subtract the holdbacks. Theoretically, this would be the dealer's 'true' price for the car. Add in dealer profit (the dealer MUST make some money on the deal; you might try 3%). This would be your offer. Be willing to give some more profit for vehicles either in very short supply or higher demand.
Put in your e-mail to the dealer your offer. Don't just send out a bunch of e-mails asking for the dealer's "best offer". You need to say up front what YOU are willing to pay. They can either agree to that, or then counter-offer. Also, it helps greatly if you explain HOW you came up with your offer. Don't just put a number down because for all they know, you just plucked it out of thin air. If they know in the e-mail that you know what the true invoice is, if you know about all applicable rebates, and that you know what their holdback is, AND you show that you are willing to give them some profit, then (IMO) they should be more willing to give you a fair price.
And finally, it may help if you reference the other Mazda3's that you've located on competing dealer lots. If they understand that you've located other cars, they also may be more willing to deal.
I tried this tactic in February and got an Odyssey EX-L, in a popular color and in dealer stock, for around $3k off MSRP. With 2 e-mails.
Anyone know where can I go to determine the true value of a mazda 3 2006? Edmunds doesn't have the info yet.
2005 Mazda3
Because there are so many types of Mazda3's, it is usually easier to get specifics before you quote, to avoid quoting a base car when the customer is interested in a loaded one or vice versa.
Although I must agree, I typically do not ask my internet clients to call me
2006 Mazda MAZDA3 s Grand Touring 5-Door
List Price: $19,165
Invoice $17,921
I wish autobytel would allow you to add options such as automatic to figure out the invoice price. If I punched in all the numbers correctly, I get $17584.75. That's if my Gerber rebate works without the original ad, I don't think any of my local dealers have any special incentives going on. Does $17584.75 sound right? How much more do you think the price would jump to if I go with automatic.
Ahhhhh, now you get into that esoteric discussion of what constitutes a 'fair' profit....
Nothing magic about the 3%. If a dealer has 40 Mazda3's sitting around collecting dust, you might try 2% of whatever you calculated as the 'true' dealer's price. If he's moving cars out as fast as they come off the truck, you might be lucky to get one at 8% of the MSRP over his cost. All I'm saying is that you let the dealer know that YOU know what the 'true' cost of the vehicle is and then put in some realistic percentage over that for profit. IMO, the more knowledge you exhibit about the pricing, the less likely the dealer will try to gouge you. If the dealer feels it is 'fair', you'll probably make a deal quickly. If the dealer KNOWS he can get much more for the car, he'll probably counteroffer with something much higher. Afterall, he's got no reason to take your offer (even if his profit is 3% of the MSRP over his true cost) if he KNOWS he can get a lot more for the car.
You've got to remember that what constitutes a 'fair' profit constantly changes; it all comes down to how much supply the dealer has (and his competitors have) compared to how much demand he perceives.
Once a deal is made, don't beat yourself up worrying about what others paid and whether or not they got a better "deal". Because there's always better 'deals' out there that people will report. And worrying about whether or not you might've / could've / should've ground out another $50 off the price is (IMO) not worth the heartburn.
I had pretty much decided on buying a used car, but have recently contemplated getting a Ford Focus station wagon, new because they're cheap and get decent gas mileage (better, sadly, than the Mazda3 hatch I also coveted, which is a lot zoomier!). All of the 05s are gone, so I'd have to either order an 06, or wait a few months till more 06s are on the lots. If I choose not to wait and order a car--even a car that doesn't generally sell well--do you think this negatively impacts my ability to "deal" in this manner? Because I'm pretty much telling the dealership I'm so hot for this car I want them to go specially get me one, so I can't play the competition card.
Just an FYI, I purchased my 3 S touring last weekend - an 06 model with the moon roof and 6-disc CD changer. I paid $400 over invoice. Additionally, I WAS able to use the Gerber Coupon AND could have used the ACOG coupon, but I didn't have the original ad at the time. Happy Reading and happy hunting!
Click on Car Research. Lets you add certain options/adds desination charge too. Seems good.
Thanks and have a good day!
Thanks!
It took 3 business days to get the email from Mazda with the code. It took 5 days to get the ad from Gerber. Can't answer your question regarding S-plan, but it seems that most dealers aren't too familiar with the program(s) and may allow you to use both the S-Plan and the coupon(s). Good luck on your purchase.
MSRP was $19,100 paid $18,040.
Beautiful car......runs great on Day 2.
Did pass a auto trailer loaded with 06 Civics.....bought the Mazda fits my needs.
Bought at EL Cajon Mazda(San Diego)
This will fit in the driveway between my 03 X5 4.5(14mpg) and my 99 Ferrari 550(mpg never calculated).
2006 with auto and touring package (means power and 16 inch wheels) 16,450
2005 with auto and Power package (means power and 16 inch wheels) 15.900
Thew 2006 gets Variable values on the Mazda3i and not even worth mentioning 2 extra horsepower. Also it is a 1 year newer car in model year. Is it worth the 550 more or do you think I'm better off saving the money.
The dealer who offered me the 2005 is away until Monday but if I want it I should let him know tomorrow morning. I appreciate anyone personal opinion since I'm not sure.
Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, September 14, 2005 with a few thoughts on the subject.
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I may have zeroed in on a car, and it would be great to get the extra $$ off.
Thanks.
The following week they called and asked for the Gerber coupon. They said I could fax it to them. A few days later, when I received the Gerber coupon in the mail, I mailed it to the salesman and haven't heard from them since.