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Nissan Titan Maintenance and Repair



  • If those Japanese manufacturers make the locker unlock when you exceed 4 mph, then you are wasting your money and should not pay the money for the option. Go 4 mph in your vehicle and tell me that you don't need your locker at any speed above that. What fun is it to drive in 4WD with locked axles below 4 mph? Furthermore, to say that if the differential is "Stuck" in the locked position over 4 mph was the reason it failed is insane. There is no way that should fail the differential. Did they give you an idea of what actually failed.

    Buy a GMC or Ford, an American truck because that's who knows 4WD and off-road.
  • PLease help !!!
    Does anyone know how to modify the Titan so the A/C can be turned off after you left the defrost on for more than 1 minute.
    According to manufacture the a/c is always on whenever you use the defrost, and if you use the defrost for more than 1 minute, the a/c cannot be turned off unless you turn the engine off or turn the vent/fan off.
    The weather is start getting cold and I think it's ridiculous to have the a/c on all the time; especially with the current high gas price.
  • saddaddysaddaddy Posts: 566
    I am a possible future buyer and am interested in the electric locker on the truck. Does it really unlock above 4 mph? Can someone confirm this with excerpts from the manual or some other means? I currently have a Tacoma with an electric locker (the truck that did this first, not Nissan, by the way -- another day). A VERY common misconception with these trucks is that it unlocks above 5 mph. However, the truth is that it will simply not lock or unlock above that speed. If the locker is engaged at, say, 2 mph (or sitting still), it will remain engaged at any speed. It will then only unlock when the button is pressed again AND vehicle speed goes below 5 mph. Again, one may travel at any speed while engaged.

    More questions about the locker... Can it only be engaged while in 4lo? Is the diff open or limited-slip while not locked? Thanks.
  • I'm so confused! I don't know what to think. Like I said, the locker could be the only reason my diff failed twice.
  • You are 50% correct. The locker will not lock above 4 mph. So you must slow down to 4 mph or below if you want to be in the "axle locked" configuration. However, after that it will remain locked at any speeds (however you must be in 4LO, so you won't be going too fast).

    You can unlock the locker at any speed, it doesn't matter.

    Again, high speeds do not affect a locking differential. Your locker did not fail becuase it was locked at high speeds that is just plain wrong. High torque difference between the wheels would affect a locking differential and could cause failure. You will get these high delta torques at low speed turns on dry pavement, but your wheels will be hopping, so you would know something is wrong.
  • Just to give u a heads up, i am currently pursuing a lemon law against my titan. The rear axle has failed three times each time has been after the rear locker has been used within that week...
  • Littletitan,
    Your request and desire to turn off the A/C is a common concern among the average owners now-a-days. You can turn the A/C off anytime you chose to, simply by pushing in the knob switch, labeled "A/C", until the light goes out. The only time it will not go off is if the dial is in the "max" a/c position. so be sure it is not and you should be able to turn it off anytime you chose to.

    Yes it is true that the A/C seems to always go on when you place the controls in the "defrost" position. It is just what Nissan wanted to happen. Its not a defect or malfunctioning part. The reason is really quite simple. Normally when you put your defrost on you are normally doing it to clear the windshield. Typically what your trying to clear is moisture of some sort. By running the A/C it removes moisture from the inside of the vehicle clearing the window much more quickly and effectively than without a/c. You can run the A/C in the heat position, hence giving you heated / dry air. It does seem a pain... but further examination shows it to be a very nice feature. Besides without a/c you may have to get it so hot on the inside of the vehicle before it clears the windows you cant drive very comfortable.

    The a/c can remove the moisture without having to add allot of heat to the interior. It's one of the best things about any A/C unit. As far as it hurting gas mileage..... It may effect it slightly but really..(Keeping control of the urge to press your foot on the accelartor, light to light, saves allot more gas) Seriously though ... if gas mileage was a problem, a Titan may have been a poor choice of vehicles. Good luck.. ;)
  • dneildneil Posts: 2
    I had problems with the brakes on my Nissan. I eventually called a lemon law attorney. They got me moved to the top of the waiting list for the "counter-measure brake kit" (which seems to have fixed the problem!) They also got Nissan to pay me $3,000.00 for my trouble and inconvenience. I would highly recommend these guys --

    Good luck...
  • saddaddysaddaddy Posts: 566
    Wow. That is something else. I was wondering how a true locker in such a powerful truck would hold up. The design received rave reviews when put in the Tacomas, but they are/were not nearly as powerful. Good luck and keep us posted.
  • I posted this in the other forum re: nissan truck problems, but i thought i would post it again. There sure are a lot of messages in this Forum already!!

    Does anyone else have the same problem with their A/C that I do? Whenever I switch the A/C on and turn the dial, it goes from cold air to hot air pretty quick. Its still in the blue part, but it certainly doesnt blow chilled air. The Dealer says that there is nothing wrong with it...

    AND, IN RESPONSE TO THE SQUEAKY DASHBOARD, our dealership was NOT helpful or responsive!
  • :lemon: I am having alot of issues with my 2004 Titan. I was just wondering if you had any advice on how to apply the lemon law to one particular vehicle. I tried to contact my sales person. They said they would try to find a resolution two weeks ago. I called today and it turns out they dont work at the dealership anymore. Now I feel like i am kinda screwed. Any info would be very helpful. :lemon:
  • I have the same squeak in the back of the truck; it's produced by bumpy roads, closing the doors, and climbing around in the truck bed. The noise didn't begin until I had some Flowmasters put on. The dealer could not find anything loose. The noise progresses as the vehicle warms up, and is almost embarrassing when it is at it's peak. Can anyone tell me about their experiences with mysterious squeaks?
  • nwbsrnwbsr Posts: 2
    I had a rubbing sounding squeak comming from the rear of the cabin the other night ('05 SE Crew cab)at 7,000 miles :) and it has gone away before I could find it. What I was going to do and it has helped in the past is to remove everything and I mean everything that was not in the truck when you bought it and then have someone drive while you search out the source. I have also had the squeak in the dash board but I am convinced it is inside the dash and I will have to have the Dealer's squeak, rattle, and roll guy ride along to figure that one out. Of course it won't squeak when he rides along.
  • I just bought an 06 titan with 81 miles. So far nothing is wrong, but i do expect problems later as with any cars/trucks. However, before i bought the truck, i didnt know that this truck has a gas cap cover that is Very accessible to anyone, even gas thefts who can just open the cover and take gas out. Does all pickup trucks have this type of gas cap cover? I want to kno if i can buy a lock or some alternatives to prevent gas thefts.

    High :)
  • I have 52,000 on the '04 Titan LE King Cab, the brakes are no longer a problem with the latest fix (3 sets of front rotors,1 set of rears), the dash squeaks have diminished but not gone away. I just had a leaky axle seal replaced with a new bearing and seal on the left rear axle and new tires at 40K. mi. Now I am thinking about trading in for the '06 or should I opt for a fire sale on an '05, anyone know if there are any significant changes between the 2 years? I did notice that the '06 has dual zone heat and AC. One more thing, thanks to the loaners I used when my truck was being worked on, Ford, Dodge and last week an '06 Silverado, I could not buy anything but the Nissan, the ride, engine, transmission response, fit and finish is superior by far. I did like the lightness of the Ford tailgate. Any one heard about a New larger Toyota Tundra for '06? What value should I get for my LE King Cab Titan with 52K and a few minor bruises?
  • Ok, I know i'm kind of late replying, but I guess better late then never.. Anyway they replaced the front rotors, I guess it was the kit they put on and that seems to have fixed the problem with the steering wheel shimming. I do love the truck, and I am planning on keeping it, however I don't love it enough to go live at the dealer like some of the people i'm reading about did.. Gas milage sucks.. but I knew that when I bought the truck so i'm not goin to complain about that... lol.. anyway that my 2 cents.. again..
  • I have been looking at 2006 pickups to tow a hurricane deck boat. I have test driven the Toyota Tacoma, Nissan Frontier and the Titan. I like the Titan but I am concerned about the Aluminum Block engine. I remember the 1970s (yes I am that old) and the cracking aluminum blocks. Does anyone have any information on the aluminum block? All the other trucks have Iron.
  • You are going back to the Chevy Vega with the silicone impregnated cylinder walls and you are probably also remembering a lot of cast iron blocks with aluminum cylinder heads. A lot of technology has gone by since then. Most Aluminum blocks have a cylinder liner sleeve, that means that the cylinder is not aluminum. Other aluminum blocks are a composite of more than one metal that creates a strong, light and resilient material possibly stronger than cast iron and definitely lighter. The problem with cast iron block and aluminum head comes from overheating, then the head warps and has blown head gasket problems as well as needing to be shaved or replaced to have a good mating surface.
    The aluminum block has been around for many years, I remember rebuilding a Honda 1300 engine, completely aluminum block and head, around 1983. Porsche and VW blocks have been magnesium for about 50 years. The engine in the Titan is a variation on the V8 used in the Infinity Q45 if I am not mistaking, it has been around for about 10 years. The Buick special had an all aluminum block in the 50's and the design was sold to British Leyland for the Rover and look at how long that has been around.
    I think that overheating the engine could be very hard on the aluminum block, but the benefits outweigh the perils. I wonder about the plastic valve covers and intake manifold?
    For those who watch this forum, I just traded in my '04 52K mi LE Titan (never a engine or transmission problem), for a New '06 LE Titan. I already see many improvements but time will tell if the dash rattles and warping brake rotors are a thing of the past.
  • Greeting folks,
    This is my first message to this board and I am hoping I can get a little advice. I have been less than impressed with the performance of my 2004 Titan crew cab AC. Living in Houston, I know I'm asking a lot of the AC in the heat of the summer. It seems to work okay as long as I'm moving highway speeds, but at stop lights, it's having a hard time keeping up. The truck has about 15K miles now and I've noticed the AC compressor has started cycling on and off. The compressor runs appx 4 seconds and then turns off for 12-15 seconds . . at all speeds. Is this normal? It may have been doing it since it was new and I just never noticed it. I've had it to the dealer twice and they say everything is normal even though it doesn't seem to cool sufficiently, or should I keep complaining?
  • dab27dab27 Posts: 1
    I had the still have the same problem I have service records that they engeered the back seat wrong no fix
  • I'm thinking they probably didn't, but I'll check with them. Maybe they will be a little more helpful if I bring them more data.

  • I have an '04 Titan Crew Cab SE 4WD, original equipment. I bought it new. It has 18,000 miles and all the tires are shot. It drove like it was aligned and balanced and the tires don't have uneven wear but the tread is gone, gone, gone!

    Has anyone else had this problem and how did it get handled? Is it possible that all four tires were defective? Or is it more likely that the truck is defective and, if so, what needs to be fixed? Of course the dealer says it is impossible that the truck is defective. (The dealer has been an all around [non-permissible content removed] every step of the way but I'll save that for another time.)

    I had the brake judder fixed 3x. The brakes have been OK now since the last fix in June. Could the tire problem be related? I need to get to the bottom of this right away as I just put $1000 worth of studded snow tires on and I can't have them wearing out early, too!
  • Hey just got back from deployment (military) and I bought an 05 Titan crew cab le and i was wondering if there was a site or some other way i could type in my vin# and check to see if any of these problems apply to my truck. please help me out.

  • Has anyone had a front receiver hitch installed or know of any available? Also, is there any way to make the fog lights stay on when switching to high beams? Thanks for any help.

    I have an 05 4x4 XE with the 6" Pro Comp lift.
  • Hi,
    I have an '05 that has been knocking when first started in the morning. It last about 10 to 15 seconds. The truck has 4500 miles on it. The dealer changed the oil and wants me to try it for 500 miles. It seems to be quiet now, but I don't know what they could have added to the oil. It knocked with the break in oil and also when it was changed at 3000 miles. Doesn't have me too happy with what could happen when the warranty is out. It is a bottom end knock that you can hear from 50 feet away.
    If it comes back, and I suspect it will, I'll have to sell this truck.
  • I have an 05 SE and it knocks when first started in the AM for 10-15 seconds. Not a ticking, but a knock similar to a connecting rod. The dealer changed the oil at 3000 miles and it is still there. They then changed it at 4500 miles and it is quiet so far (I have only driven approx. 20 miles). I'm not sure if they put additives in the oil.
    Anyone have a similar problem? I'm concerned about keeping this truck with this problem.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    '05 with 15k miles and have the same knock on startup. Reminds me of a diesel. Goes away after awhile. No smoke from exhaust. Most important, can't hear it from inside the cab. If I remember correctly, I've had it since the first week of ownership.
  • I have an ARE "Z" cap (topper) on my Titan CC.

    Recently worked on Rally USA as timing control and had to drive in and out from Grand Canyon West, over 50 miles of baaad road. Hanging dust from vehicles so thick that another vehicle 5 minutes later still had limited visibilty.

    When I opened the lift gate later I found everything covered in a layer of dust. :mad: (Grand Canyon must be at least 2" deeper now!) Most seems to have entered from the sides and bottom of the tailgate.

    :confuse: Anybody got a good solution for sealing the tailgate and bed drains for dusty road driving?
  • Hi,
    I have changed the oil to Castrol GTX 5w30, API, Energy conservation on label and the knock seems to have stopped..I'll let you know what happens after more miles are on it. Something doesn,t seem right?

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