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My wife took it to the dealer today and they wouldn't even listen to the sound without charging $95 to pull it in the shop. Crappy service. Just wondering if anyone had any expereince/ideas with this. Searched the web and have come up empty handed so far.
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowledgebase.html?catid=160
You may want to try and contact Nissan directly and see if they will offer some type of compensation. This is a well known problem.
Brent
What happens after the truck is started? Does the gauge return to normal? Still stuck? A little more info would be helpful
I work at a tractor dealership, and asked the guys about it in the shop. I thought maybe a fuse had blown, one of the guys suggested that maybe one of the connections to the alternator was loose, but checked both possibilities and they were fine. We had the computer replaced at a Nissan dealership earlier this year, so I can't imagine it being that! Someone else suggested the IPDM...Anyone have any ideas?
The brakes on my truck have been fine. I just make sure i use the dealers brake pads and i dont have a problem with them. My differential went out got it replaced and now it runs fine. I love my truck, my boys drive my truck and they get compliments from their friends, their friends find it hard to beleive it belongs to their mom. Although it is rather torqueie. Sometimes when i take off from a dead stop it jolts me forward, not all the time though, does anyone have that happen to them?
Cleaning the throttle body may help on the jolting. Clean the TPS and IAF while you're at it.
Now my truck doesn’t want to start I had a friend mechanic come over the pass 3 days to do process of elimination. Reason 3 days 1 hour a day and because 2 different computers were not giving any codes. We checked fuel pump, pressure in the engine, fuses, relays. Until I remembered, I used a key that I have never used before to move my truck. Nissan gave me 3 keys when I bought the truck. 1 is mine 1 is my wife’s 1 was thrown in the garage and found this passed weekend and used to move my truck. Our trucks have an anti-theft shut off, so if a key is not programmed or not used at all it can lose the program stated by a tech your truck will shut down so it can’t be stolen. Do you recall maybe sticking a different key in even if was a spear that you never use? Check it out only bad part is getting the vehicle down to the dealer and reprogramming the keys and truck.
@7K but @14K DEALER stated that 1K was needed to replace the rear rotors and
pads. The tail pipe rusted off also, The dealer called everything bad luck and weather causing the problems. I will be replacing all of the rotors and installing
ceramic pads. I will never purchase another NISSAN product. The dealerships could
care less once you pay drive the vehicle off of thr lot!!!!
Replaced the booster and MC. After replacing the MC and booster the brakes have started to drag, sometimes severly sometimes only a little sometimes not at all. When it first occured I was away from home and the brakes were almost locked completely. I disconnected the booster with no effect. Next I thought the push rod on the MC needed adjusting so I pulled up on the brake pedal and it alleviated the lock up temporarily. Readjusting the MC push rod seems to have made the problem occur less and less severely but has not eliminated it. Pulling up on the brake pedal still seems to remove the problem temporarily. This makes no sense to me. What am I missing?
As I see it the brake switch limits the adjustment of the push rod ?? I can't figure out if the switch is adjustable. I adjusted the rod so that the brake light is just off. If I shorten the MC push rod more the brake lights are on all the time.