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Another myth is that using a higher octane fuel will result
in improved fuel economy (increased miles per gallon). Octane
is nothing more than a measure of anti-knock quality.
Fuel economy is determined by a number of variables including
the energy content of the fuel. Some premium grades of
fuel may contain components which increase energy content.
In those cases, fuel economy may improve slightly as a result
of higher energy content, but not as a result of the higher
octane. Two fuels of identical octane could have different
energy content due to compositional differences.
Consumers need only use a gasoline meeting the
vehicle manufacturer’s recommended octane levels. If engine
knocking occurs on such fuels and mechanical causes
have been eliminated, then the consumer should purchase
the next highest octane gasoline (above the manufacturer's
recommendation in the owners manual) that will provide
knock-free operation.
Milage: 6500
MPG: between 13.8 & 14.8 (18 on the sticker) and a good part of this was some distance driving.
Is engine still breaking in? Besides do the usual change air filter, keep tires correct inflation; can't I sue?
I was originally told to burn Regular, now the more expensive stuff - haven't done this yet or much of anything yet, except clean my shotguns.
However, turning left in the seat to get out of vehicle constantly or eventually pulls the plastic hallow rob OUT from it's clamped compartment.
Anyone else have this problem?
I have a steel rod bolted into passenger seat floor (L shape) that holds a Lap Top computer that has tracking software. I might mount there.
I want to add Sirius(sp) because they have the lifetime deal w/ three (3) upgrades but I hate their ugly antena - just a flat magnet. Anyone know a way to hype that antena up?
And will a CB antena work if connected in back into the bed, I've had two techs tell me it very much needs to go in front of the cab. Obviously, I don't understand why:)
CD changer, side airbags, VSC, daytime running lights or towing package is not included.
I am quoted at $26,608.00 which is excluding documentation, tax and license fee's
Is that a fair price?
Thank's
CD changer, side airbags, VSC, daytime running lights or towing package is not included.
I am quoted at $26,608.00 which is excluding documentation, tax and license fee's
Is that a fair price?
Thank's
Are you saying that none of these things are included? If so, it is only about $1400 - 1800 below the price with all included. If you don't want the items, I guess it is an OK deal. Up here in the Tacoma area (when I bought), those items are automatically included in the TRD (off road anyway) package. Interesting to see how Toyota mixes and matches packages, depending on where you live.
If I get this paint job done, I'll ask for these plastic deflectors to be installed.....
Here's a better looking, but more expensive Scan Gauge http://www.stylinconcepts.com/parts.aspx?partfamilyid=1717&q=scan+gauge
You can put a CB antenna mounted to the bed or bumper. The higher you put it, the better reception you'll get. I've seen several Tacomas with this setup on www.customtacos.com
If you're just now finding out about this TSB, you might have to wait a while for the parts. They will probably be on backorder soon, from all the people asking for 'em. I think that the new manifolds are thick cast iron, to dampen the sound.
Check the www.ToyotaNation.com 2005+ Tacoma forum if you want to print out the PDF version of it.
Here it is:
April 7, 2006
Introduction: Some customers may experience a ticking or tapping-type noise from the engine area at 2000-2500 rpm during acceleration that is most noticeable after a cold soak. New exhaust manifolds have been developed to minimize this condition.
Applicable Vehicles * 2005 - 2006 model year Tacoma vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VIN Shown below.
Production Change Information Tacoma 1GR-FE 5TE*U##N#6Z214578
Parts Information
Previous Part Number
17140-0P010, 17150-0P010 Manifold Assembly, Exhaust RH, LH
Current Part number
17140-0P070, 17150-0P070 Manifold Assembly, Exhaust RH, LH
Repair Procedure- Replace both LH and RH exhaust manifolds.
Warranty Informatoion
OP Code EG5027
Description
R & R Exhaust Manifolds
Time
1.6 hours
OFP
17140-0P010
T1
91
T2
41
Appliciable Warranty*:
The Remove and Reinstal (R & R of the Exhaust Manifold P/N 17140-OP010 and 17150-OP010) due to the attached Catalytic Convertor, is covered under the Toyota Federal Emissions Warranty. This Warranty is in effect for 96 months or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.
*Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem pased upon a customer's specific complaint.
There was three packages available with the TRD off-road.
They are "C","D", & "E".
The E package is the "works".
The C package is the bare bones TRD.
The D is without towing package.
But you are right on with the $ figures.
Thank you.
Engine35
I didn't word it too well.
It's without all those stuff.
What does the towing package consist of?
My boat is very light just a couple hundred lbs.
I just need the wiring harness.
Thanks!
Engine35
Is it still a good price?
The Chip-Stick is a crayon substance and came as a bonus attachment with a bottle of liquid Red Turtle Wax. That's right, the wax is color coded and sold as Red Turtle Wax.
It's too cold where I live to apply at this time.
There may be more, but the tow package comes with class IV receiver, 7 pin trailer light connector, heavy duty battery, trans. cooler, auxillary oil cooler. And, the tow package increases towing capacity to 6,500 lbs from 3,500 lbs. However, not sure how this applies to a stick shift since they're not suitable for towing anything heavy.
BTW, the carpeted floor mats are a rip off. I bought the nice, heavy duty rubber ones at Toyotapartspeople.com.
Also, I just run 87 octane here in CA. I subscribe to a bunch of magazines and have read repeatedly over the years that higher octane isn't worth buying unless your car (or truck) is pinging. I only plan on burning premium (91 octane) when I tow my travel trailer (that I haven't purchased just yet..).
Lastly, I pretty much go by the old idea of driving like I have an egg under my foot when I accelerate - uh, not a hard boiled one! Of course, being a guy, now and then floor the sucker just for the hell of it!
I remember paying $40 just for a 4-pin wiring harness and then having to tap wires on my '92 Toyota pickup.
I guess if you wanted to use a bumper hitch and do your own wiring, you could pull light trailers without spending the $650 for this package. I think you get a lot of utility and maybe resale value with it though.
My price was supposedly $500 over invoice which worked out to around 7.5% off sticker.
Huh? 99% of the big rigs have sticks, but sticks are not suitable for heavy towing? Guess all those trailers they are pulling are empty. My stick is rated the same as autos (or real close). Don't know exact numbers nor do I plan to weigh my trailer and remove 20 pounds if I am slightly over.
First, I didn't say Tacoma's with manual tranny's couldn't tow heavy loads, I just said they're not suitable - ie, you will need a clutch job a long (make that long long) time before you normally would. Your comparison to big rig's having manual tranny's doesn't make sense because the big rigs are designed from scratch to pull/haul many tons because that's what they do. Small trucks like the Tacoma are not designed for this kind of usage as they're primarily passenger hauler's.
Briefly, here's the deal. There is a tremendous amount of slippage & heat buildup in a clutch disc when you start from a dead stop on level ground, let alone a hill. Now, connect a 6,500 lb trailer to your stick shift truck and imagine what kind of heat is being created. Excessive heat kills clutches.
Try this, call your local Toyota service manager and ask him if he recommends a stick or automatic for towing the 6,500 lb maximum.
After I apply and polish the colored wax over the chip-stik I am going to test-apply an overcoat of Zymol and see how well that holds up in my neck of the woods (Northeast USA PA-NY-NJ.
Have you eve applied other wax over the colored Turtle Wax?
I think that you should take pictures and build a case for you to claim 'not as advertised'. Meanwhile, show intent to mitigate (control) further damage and lay a sheet of plywood or thick rubber mat on the bed. Take pics of that too.
Ask your dealership for the Quality Assurance Dept address for Toyota USA. Remember, it's not the dealer who designed the bedliner....together with the dealer, go after Toyota.
So what I'm imagining, and will try when I next get a chance to test-drive one, is to bring along a big car-washing sponge. The plan is to jam it between the bed and the cab, directly below the vent - I'll probably need to take yardstick or something to do this. It will still vent, but it won't get airflow across it, and any pavement noise from below won't get thru the sponge.
Sounds crazy, I know. But I love the thought of losing my 2002 Highlander, and picking up a stick-shift truck. The noise has stopped me so far. But this seems like an easy thing to try.
"Don't buy premium fuel unless you have to---if your owner's manual calls for it or if your car knocks or pings on regular gas. Otherwise, use regular. Our tests have shown that any performance advantages with premium aren't noticeable for normal driving. In most cases, using premium in a car designed for regular gas wastes money."
Other parts of the article talk about Slowing down, Driving Smoothly, Reducing unnecessary drag and Minimizing driving with a cold engine.
Consumer Reports also rates the Tacoma above average in most all rating aspects and states, as per Toyota, that the 4 cyl and 6 cyl use regular gas. I think that when the new V6 was introduced the window sticker called for premium. This is no longer true for the '06 which uses the very same engine.
I use 87, and 89 without mileage distinction nor is there ping. Does anyone reading this get ping while using 87 or 89 octane? What octane and what MPG?
Also, I believe the stress you put on the drivetrain by not using the clutch while shifting (after 1st gear) is setting yourself up for a far more expensive repair job than doing a clutch job.
Last week I was under the truck checking on winter salt and anti skid damage when I noticed that all 3 zerk fittings on the driveshaft were at the 6 o'clock position. Out of curiosity,I got a piece of heavy string and ran it from the front to the rear zerk fittings. When I stretched the string tight, I saw that the zerk on the middle universal joint was nearly 1/2 inch out of alignment with the others.
I noted that the bracket holding the carrier had slotted holes so I loosened the two bolts (14mm)and moved the assembly so that the middle zerk lined up with the front and rear ones.
I'm not saying that this completely cured my vibration but I used to be able to tell when I hit 59 or 60 mph without looking at the speedometer. Now I have to pay attention to see if it's there and usually still can't feel/hear it.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238