I googled. Here is what I found: Another myth is that using a higher octane fuel will result in improved fuel economy (increased miles per gallon). Octane is nothing more than a measure of anti-knock quality. Fuel economy is determined by a number of variables including the energy content of the fuel. Some premium grades of fuel may contain components which increase energy content. In those cases, fuel economy may improve slightly as a result of higher energy content, but not as a result of the higher octane. Two fuels of identical octane could have different energy content due to compositional differences. Consumers need only use a gasoline meeting the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended octane levels. If engine knocking occurs on such fuels and mechanical causes have been eliminated, then the consumer should purchase the next highest octane gasoline (above the manufacturer's recommendation in the owners manual) that will provide knock-free operation.
It is actually amusing to read all of the information that rtesoro is trying to feed everyone regarding gas mileage. The numbers on the window sticker are ESTIMATES, and no way represent real driving. As per the EPA testing cars with 100 octane gas, there is no need to google this because the window sticker gives you a website, www.fueleconomy.gov, which explains how these ESTIMATES are derived. It is a very interesting and informative website. I could not find anywhere where they said that 100 octane gas was used. It did list in an excel spreadsheet that tacomas were rated using regular gas instead of premium, last I checked, this was 87 - 93 octane, give or take. Finally, the fine print on the window sticker DOES NOT state anything about 100 octane gas. However, it does state,"Actual mileage will vary with options, driving conditions, driving habits and vehicle's condition." I hope this information helps everyone and please have your facts before you post.
Wonder if we could compare 'klunks'. I'm not sure I have a 'klunk' but I do notice something. When coming to a Stop Sign, I noticed the truck sort-of or what I thought it was doing, was, shifting down ..... but not so much of a klunk but more of a 'shift' but more pronounced than a transmission shift. Not sure I notice it when coming off or from a Stop Sign. thanks
Drivers side is secured w/ a plastic hallow rod thrusted into the creves of where the back part of the seat, meets the flat part of the seat -- via a piece of material of the seat cover that the rob goes through. Thus, it's suppose to be secured.
However, turning left in the seat to get out of vehicle constantly or eventually pulls the plastic hallow rob OUT from it's clamped compartment.
I have a steel rod bolted into passenger seat floor (L shape) that holds a Lap Top computer that has tracking software. I might mount there.
I want to add Sirius(sp) because they have the lifetime deal w/ three (3) upgrades but I hate their ugly antena - just a flat magnet. Anyone know a way to hype that antena up?
And will a CB antena work if connected in back into the bed, I've had two techs tell me it very much needs to go in front of the cab. Obviously, I don't understand why:)
I am going to buy a 06 4x4 double cab TRD Off Road V6 with Manual trans. CD changer, side airbags, VSC, daytime running lights or towing package is not included. I am quoted at $26,608.00 which is excluding documentation, tax and license fee's Is that a fair price? Thank's
I understand what you are saying. I don't hear anything, I can just feel it. It only happens at temperatures above 55 degrees, which tells me the spline slip yoke is not greased enough or properly. My mechanic friend (toyota/lexus) confirmed my suspistions. I does almost feel like a down shift. Eventually you will start feeling it at take off from a stop, especially if it is warm where you are.
That looks like a pretty good price especially since the side airbags and VSC are pricey options. I paid about that much for my TRD Sport without those items. The handling and traction on the TRD Sport w/ltd slip is so solid, I can't imagine needing the VSC. I do have the towing package though. If you ever plan on towing, you should consider the towing package now. You couldn't get all of those components in the aftermarket for $650.
I am going to buy a 06 4x4 double cab TRD Off Road V6 with Manual trans. CD changer, side airbags, VSC, daytime running lights or towing package is not included. I am quoted at $26,608.00 which is excluding documentation, tax and license fee's Is that a fair price? Thank's
Are you saying that none of these things are included? If so, it is only about $1400 - 1800 below the price with all included. If you don't want the items, I guess it is an OK deal. Up here in the Tacoma area (when I bought), those items are automatically included in the TRD (off road anyway) package. Interesting to see how Toyota mixes and matches packages, depending on where you live.
Anyone have any problems with paint chipping on indigo blue trucks? The wheel wells on my '05 Tacoma are spattered with chips and marks in the clearcoat with only 9,000 miles. Wondering what the dealer's going to say or what my next action should be ?!?
I own an indigo blue '05 Taco and I've witnessed the same problem about the pain chips and marks on the clear coat. Someone on that forum said that his dealer accepted to give him ONE new paint. I haven't complained yet about my problem but I've noticed on the '06 parked on the dealer's lot that a piece of plastic was added on the rear lower corner of the cab so that rocks thrown towards the rear wheel wells are deflected away.
If I get this paint job done, I'll ask for these plastic deflectors to be installed.....
You don't have the tube pushed down far enough in the seats. You really gotta muscle it in there. lay the seat down flat. stick the tube in the crack, then lean the seat upright. then use a wooden dowel or a hammer handle to push the tube down into the crack as far as you can. Mine are tight as a drum and haven't budged an inch since I have had 'em. I've had 'em 9 months.
You can put a CB antenna mounted to the bed or bumper. The higher you put it, the better reception you'll get. I've seen several Tacomas with this setup on www.customtacos.com
If you haven't heard, there's a TSB to fix the engine tick. I've already been to the dealership and handed them this TSB. They didn't put up a fight about it. The new parts are on their way, and will be installed soon.
If you're just now finding out about this TSB, you might have to wait a while for the parts. They will probably be on backorder soon, from all the people asking for 'em. I think that the new manifolds are thick cast iron, to dampen the sound.
Check the www.ToyotaNation.com 2005+ Tacoma forum if you want to print out the PDF version of it.
Here it is:
April 7, 2006
Introduction: Some customers may experience a ticking or tapping-type noise from the engine area at 2000-2500 rpm during acceleration that is most noticeable after a cold soak. New exhaust manifolds have been developed to minimize this condition.
Applicable Vehicles * 2005 - 2006 model year Tacoma vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VIN Shown below.
Production Change Information Tacoma 1GR-FE 5TE*U##N#6Z214578
Parts Information
Previous Part Number 17140-0P010, 17150-0P010 Manifold Assembly, Exhaust RH, LH
Current Part number 17140-0P070, 17150-0P070 Manifold Assembly, Exhaust RH, LH
Repair Procedure- Replace both LH and RH exhaust manifolds.
Warranty Informatoion OP Code EG5027
Description R & R Exhaust Manifolds
Time 1.6 hours
OFP 17140-0P010
T1 91
T2 41
Appliciable Warranty*:
The Remove and Reinstal (R & R of the Exhaust Manifold P/N 17140-OP010 and 17150-OP010) due to the attached Catalytic Convertor, is covered under the Toyota Federal Emissions Warranty. This Warranty is in effect for 96 months or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.
*Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem pased upon a customer's specific complaint.
Thanks for your reply ustazzaf, There was three packages available with the TRD off-road. They are "C","D", & "E". The E package is the "works". The C package is the bare bones TRD. The D is without towing package. But you are right on with the $ figures. Thank you. Engine35
Sory itmar, I didn't word it too well. It's without all those stuff. What does the towing package consist of? My boat is very light just a couple hundred lbs. I just need the wiring harness. Thanks! Engine35 Is it still a good price?
The color of my '05 Access Cab is Radiant Red and has small paint chips and a supermarket scratch. I found a product from Turtle Wax that may hide those dings. It's their Chip-Stick.
The Chip-Stick is a crayon substance and came as a bonus attachment with a bottle of liquid Red Turtle Wax. That's right, the wax is color coded and sold as Red Turtle Wax.
I tried the same product in the blue, the chip stick works pretty well, and the wax works great, hiding all but the biggest ones. From a couple feet away it looks mint, but it only lasts till the next wash or rain.
It is not quite the same, my truck is a 2006 DC, 4x4 w/auto trans and Off Road & tow packages - plus bed extender and carpeted floor mats and I paid $27,600 (in Calif.) which was about $2,200 under MSRP.
There may be more, but the tow package comes with class IV receiver, 7 pin trailer light connector, heavy duty battery, trans. cooler, auxillary oil cooler. And, the tow package increases towing capacity to 6,500 lbs from 3,500 lbs. However, not sure how this applies to a stick shift since they're not suitable for towing anything heavy.
BTW, the carpeted floor mats are a rip off. I bought the nice, heavy duty rubber ones at Toyotapartspeople.com.
For what it's worth, my 2006 V-6 DC 4x4 is right at the 17 city, 21 highway EPA estimates (PreRunners are 18/22 I believe). I have had 3 tanks that were just highway miles - at 70 MPH mostly (sometimes 65, sometimes 75), and they were all right at 21, or even a tad over. A couple of combined city/hwy tanks were at 18/19 mark. I only have 2,400 miles on the truck and expect mileage to improve another MPG after it's broken in more.
Also, I just run 87 octane here in CA. I subscribe to a bunch of magazines and have read repeatedly over the years that higher octane isn't worth buying unless your car (or truck) is pinging. I only plan on burning premium (91 octane) when I tow my travel trailer (that I haven't purchased just yet..).
Lastly, I pretty much go by the old idea of driving like I have an egg under my foot when I accelerate - uh, not a hard boiled one! Of course, being a guy, now and then floor the sucker just for the hell of it!
The trailer package has a 2" receiver hitch, 7-pin wire connector, oil cooler, trans cooler with auto, heavy-duty battery, and 130-amp alternator.
I remember paying $40 just for a 4-pin wiring harness and then having to tap wires on my '92 Toyota pickup.
I guess if you wanted to use a bumper hitch and do your own wiring, you could pull light trailers without spending the $650 for this package. I think you get a lot of utility and maybe resale value with it though.
My price was supposedly $500 over invoice which worked out to around 7.5% off sticker.
There may be more, but the tow package comes with class IV receiver, 7 pin trailer light connector, heavy duty battery, trans. cooler, auxillary oil cooler. And, the tow package increases towing capacity to 6,500 lbs from 3,500 lbs. However, not sure how this applies to a stick shift since they're not suitable for towing anything heavy
Huh? 99% of the big rigs have sticks, but sticks are not suitable for heavy towing? Guess all those trailers they are pulling are empty. My stick is rated the same as autos (or real close). Don't know exact numbers nor do I plan to weigh my trailer and remove 20 pounds if I am slightly over.
I started to respond with sarcasm, but then I realized that I didn't always know about manual transmissions and towing myself...I mean, sticks are kind of manly, auto's aren't right?
First, I didn't say Tacoma's with manual tranny's couldn't tow heavy loads, I just said they're not suitable - ie, you will need a clutch job a long (make that long long) time before you normally would. Your comparison to big rig's having manual tranny's doesn't make sense because the big rigs are designed from scratch to pull/haul many tons because that's what they do. Small trucks like the Tacoma are not designed for this kind of usage as they're primarily passenger hauler's.
Briefly, here's the deal. There is a tremendous amount of slippage & heat buildup in a clutch disc when you start from a dead stop on level ground, let alone a hill. Now, connect a 6,500 lb trailer to your stick shift truck and imagine what kind of heat is being created. Excessive heat kills clutches.
Try this, call your local Toyota service manager and ask him if he recommends a stick or automatic for towing the 6,500 lb maximum.
I don't think I'd be worried about the clutch as much as I'd be worried about dropping a driveshaft or snapping a rear-end. I had a 2000 Corolla that had 215,000 when I sold it with the factory clutch still in it. It just depends on who is driving the truck and if they know what they're doing. I've been moving heavy construction equipment for the last 10 years 120,000+ lbs loads on semis. Plus if you're really good with the truck you only need the clutch when you 1st start out. My Corolla I used to drive whithout using the clutch all the time and look how long it lasted.
I have been driving and towing for about 27 years in everything from a dump truck to my Tacoma, and the only vehicles I have ever replaced a clutch in were my 1 ton dually. (should be tow ready) and my 87 Mustang that didn't even have a hitch. The only other problems was with the auto tranny needing replaced twice in my 79 3/4 ton Ford within 2 years. That was the only truck that didn't see towing on a regular basis too. Just ruined my impression of autos in trucks.
Your repy concerning the 'chip-stik' + colored wax got me to thinking how one might extend the life of the stik/wax through several washings. I have Zymol on the shelf for my Lexus cars and it really holds up through all sorts of weather/sun/highway fumes (diesel) etc.
After I apply and polish the colored wax over the chip-stik I am going to test-apply an overcoat of Zymol and see how well that holds up in my neck of the woods (Northeast USA PA-NY-NJ.
Have you eve applied other wax over the colored Turtle Wax?
I have a 2006 TRD Sport with 2K miles. I noticed right away that this vehicle does not fire up right away. I have to keep the key turned for approximately 2 seconds. I'm used to an almost simultaneous start in other vehicles. Anyone else notice this?
My Tacoma is a everyday thing I use. I work almost everyday and I have to carry supplies in the bed everyday. My bed is plain beat out. Everywhere you look in the bed there is either a tear or crack. What should I do. I have been thinking of putting in a bed X liner in my truck. Should I just go to Toyota and ask for a new bed. Please reply back. Thanks.
The bed of the '05 is sold as being stronger than steel. Yet I noticed it flex when loading a balled nursery tree. The bedliner is very soft and easy to scratch and dent like the other day I was off loading cinder blocks and scuffed the liner portion of the tail gate (I have a rubber mat on the main portion of the bed). No way is that liner stronger than steel.
I think that you should take pictures and build a case for you to claim 'not as advertised'. Meanwhile, show intent to mitigate (control) further damage and lay a sheet of plywood or thick rubber mat on the bed. Take pics of that too.
Ask your dealership for the Quality Assurance Dept address for Toyota USA. Remember, it's not the dealer who designed the bedliner....together with the dealer, go after Toyota.
I have been using premium gas so far (may eventually break down and start using regular. Plugs should be fine (only 2K miles). I live in SE Georgia so the temperatures are very mild.
Well, if you've already sold it, this may not be much help. But I've been looking at this same model, mostly for the same reasons. I noticed that same wind noise during a test drive, and have been trying to figure out a cure for it - right now, it's a deal-breaker. I did find out one thing that might help you - there is a designed-in vent, that is right between the cab and bed. It's right in the center, about a foot below the rear window. I recently saw a chevy truck on the road, with a similar vent - this truck had no bed on it, so it was easy to see it flapping in the wind as the truck drove down the freeway next to me.
So what I'm imagining, and will try when I next get a chance to test-drive one, is to bring along a big car-washing sponge. The plan is to jam it between the bed and the cab, directly below the vent - I'll probably need to take yardstick or something to do this. It will still vent, but it won't get airflow across it, and any pavement noise from below won't get thru the sponge.
Sounds crazy, I know. But I love the thought of losing my 2002 Highlander, and picking up a stick-shift truck. The noise has stopped me so far. But this seems like an easy thing to try.
According to Consumer Reports, Annual Auto Issue, "Upfront Advice" Page 9, April 2006 is their article titled 'Don't buy premium fuel'. Here's a recap of that article.
"Don't buy premium fuel unless you have to---if your owner's manual calls for it or if your car knocks or pings on regular gas. Otherwise, use regular. Our tests have shown that any performance advantages with premium aren't noticeable for normal driving. In most cases, using premium in a car designed for regular gas wastes money."
Other parts of the article talk about Slowing down, Driving Smoothly, Reducing unnecessary drag and Minimizing driving with a cold engine.
Consumer Reports also rates the Tacoma above average in most all rating aspects and states, as per Toyota, that the 4 cyl and 6 cyl use regular gas. I think that when the new V6 was introduced the window sticker called for premium. This is no longer true for the '06 which uses the very same engine.
I use 87, and 89 without mileage distinction nor is there ping. Does anyone reading this get ping while using 87 or 89 octane? What octane and what MPG?
I Wish I had read this forum before , I just took Toyota to Arbitration over this yesterday , They told me there were no service bulletins out on this 20 MPH vibration. I wish I had this amunition in my back pocket. I thought I was the only one with this problem. Toyota has refused to work on my truck anymore for this, that's why I went to arbitration, they have been telling me this a Normal condition of the Charcoal cannister for venting. Greek to me!
In general, I agree with you that a lot depends on if the driver knows how to drive a stick properly. That said, I'd bet that almost all those 215k miles were on the highway. And since it was a 2000 model car, they almost had to be. So almost anyone could do about the same given there is no wear taking place once in high gear.
Also, I believe the stress you put on the drivetrain by not using the clutch while shifting (after 1st gear) is setting yourself up for a far more expensive repair job than doing a clutch job.
In my '05 V6 4WD Tacoma, I have used 87, 89, and 91 octane on different ocassions and it runs fine (without pinging) on any octane. However, when I use 87 octane, you can definately notice that the engine adjusts by retarding the timing and it's not as responsive. For example, if I was driving up a very long hill on the interstate, it would feel slightly sluggish, rather than zipping along. The best highway mileage I've gotten was 21-22 mpg and octane didn't seem to matter.
I also have the vibration but mine starts at apx. 59 mph. The dealer installed a new driveshaft asy. several months ago but it didn't help anything. I had taken the truck back to the dealer but was told that it was "normal" for a truck to do that.
Last week I was under the truck checking on winter salt and anti skid damage when I noticed that all 3 zerk fittings on the driveshaft were at the 6 o'clock position. Out of curiosity,I got a piece of heavy string and ran it from the front to the rear zerk fittings. When I stretched the string tight, I saw that the zerk on the middle universal joint was nearly 1/2 inch out of alignment with the others.
I noted that the bracket holding the carrier had slotted holes so I loosened the two bolts (14mm)and moved the assembly so that the middle zerk lined up with the front and rear ones.
I'm not saying that this completely cured my vibration but I used to be able to tell when I hit 59 or 60 mph without looking at the speedometer. Now I have to pay attention to see if it's there and usually still can't feel/hear it.
Does anyone know if road salt will erode my Tacoma running boards. They are an engineered resin, no metal. A Toyota mechanic said for me to wash them and apply spray undercoat. He likened the running boards with a Saturn which he claims has/had panels deteriorate from road salt.
fwiw- my 2005 was built in Jan2005, calls for 87 octane, and I notice no difference in performance, just a slight change in mpg -not sufficient to make up the add'l cost / gal.
I have the same problem. Told the dealer, and he said I shouldn't drive on gravel roads... HAH that was funny.... I drove on a sanded highway for 5 months. I hate to see what it would look like driving on gravel.. They suggested running boards..., would have been nice to tell me before I trashed the paint... We had nerf bars on order that took the dealer 4 months to get, they cut down on the damage, but I'm going to take them to a fabricator and customize them into a running board... I give credit to the dealer as he said he will repaint but only once... Didn't get it in writing though, so wait and see when the time comes....Also have to mention that the paint does seem to be thin as I got quite a few nasty rock chips this winter....
After you make running boards and after the dealer repaint is cured well, you should be alot better off with fewer pebble nicks and dings. Any dings thereafter may be treated with Turtle Wax color coded liquid wax and their Chip-Stik which is attached to the bottle of wax.
That colored wax and crayon stuff doesn't last long. It would be better to actually fix the chips with touch up paint. Check my CarDomain for pics and info on how to touch up paint chips and then wetsand and polish them smooth to look perfect.
To fix the wind noise in an Access cab, put a piece of air filter material in the vent, like the fibreglass mat from a home furnace filter. The material will let air pressure equalize, but it will slow the flow of air enough to eliminate the wind noise.
My '05 Access Cab is Brilliant Red w/clearcoat. I don't have detailing experience to try your finishing method and have to stay with the Chip Stik. When the time comes that the truck itself needs a complete head to toe refinishing, I will take it to my favorite body shop and have them apply a similar red color paint from Europe. Your CarDomain is terrific. The mods are of interest. Keep sharing.
Comments
Another myth is that using a higher octane fuel will result
in improved fuel economy (increased miles per gallon). Octane
is nothing more than a measure of anti-knock quality.
Fuel economy is determined by a number of variables including
the energy content of the fuel. Some premium grades of
fuel may contain components which increase energy content.
In those cases, fuel economy may improve slightly as a result
of higher energy content, but not as a result of the higher
octane. Two fuels of identical octane could have different
energy content due to compositional differences.
Consumers need only use a gasoline meeting the
vehicle manufacturer’s recommended octane levels. If engine
knocking occurs on such fuels and mechanical causes
have been eliminated, then the consumer should purchase
the next highest octane gasoline (above the manufacturer's
recommendation in the owners manual) that will provide
knock-free operation.
Milage: 6500
MPG: between 13.8 & 14.8 (18 on the sticker) and a good part of this was some distance driving.
Is engine still breaking in? Besides do the usual change air filter, keep tires correct inflation; can't I sue?
I was originally told to burn Regular, now the more expensive stuff - haven't done this yet or much of anything yet, except clean my shotguns.
However, turning left in the seat to get out of vehicle constantly or eventually pulls the plastic hallow rob OUT from it's clamped compartment.
Anyone else have this problem?
I have a steel rod bolted into passenger seat floor (L shape) that holds a Lap Top computer that has tracking software. I might mount there.
I want to add Sirius(sp) because they have the lifetime deal w/ three (3) upgrades but I hate their ugly antena - just a flat magnet. Anyone know a way to hype that antena up?
And will a CB antena work if connected in back into the bed, I've had two techs tell me it very much needs to go in front of the cab. Obviously, I don't understand why:)
CD changer, side airbags, VSC, daytime running lights or towing package is not included.
I am quoted at $26,608.00 which is excluding documentation, tax and license fee's
Is that a fair price?
Thank's
CD changer, side airbags, VSC, daytime running lights or towing package is not included.
I am quoted at $26,608.00 which is excluding documentation, tax and license fee's
Is that a fair price?
Thank's
Are you saying that none of these things are included? If so, it is only about $1400 - 1800 below the price with all included. If you don't want the items, I guess it is an OK deal. Up here in the Tacoma area (when I bought), those items are automatically included in the TRD (off road anyway) package. Interesting to see how Toyota mixes and matches packages, depending on where you live.
If I get this paint job done, I'll ask for these plastic deflectors to be installed.....
Here's a better looking, but more expensive Scan Gauge http://www.stylinconcepts.com/parts.aspx?partfamilyid=1717&q=scan+gauge
You can put a CB antenna mounted to the bed or bumper. The higher you put it, the better reception you'll get. I've seen several Tacomas with this setup on www.customtacos.com
If you're just now finding out about this TSB, you might have to wait a while for the parts. They will probably be on backorder soon, from all the people asking for 'em. I think that the new manifolds are thick cast iron, to dampen the sound.
Check the www.ToyotaNation.com 2005+ Tacoma forum if you want to print out the PDF version of it.
Here it is:
April 7, 2006
Introduction: Some customers may experience a ticking or tapping-type noise from the engine area at 2000-2500 rpm during acceleration that is most noticeable after a cold soak. New exhaust manifolds have been developed to minimize this condition.
Applicable Vehicles * 2005 - 2006 model year Tacoma vehicles produced BEFORE the Production Change Effective VIN Shown below.
Production Change Information Tacoma 1GR-FE 5TE*U##N#6Z214578
Parts Information
Previous Part Number
17140-0P010, 17150-0P010 Manifold Assembly, Exhaust RH, LH
Current Part number
17140-0P070, 17150-0P070 Manifold Assembly, Exhaust RH, LH
Repair Procedure- Replace both LH and RH exhaust manifolds.
Warranty Informatoion
OP Code EG5027
Description
R & R Exhaust Manifolds
Time
1.6 hours
OFP
17140-0P010
T1
91
T2
41
Appliciable Warranty*:
The Remove and Reinstal (R & R of the Exhaust Manifold P/N 17140-OP010 and 17150-OP010) due to the attached Catalytic Convertor, is covered under the Toyota Federal Emissions Warranty. This Warranty is in effect for 96 months or 80,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.
*Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem pased upon a customer's specific complaint.
There was three packages available with the TRD off-road.
They are "C","D", & "E".
The E package is the "works".
The C package is the bare bones TRD.
The D is without towing package.
But you are right on with the $ figures.
Thank you.
Engine35
I didn't word it too well.
It's without all those stuff.
What does the towing package consist of?
My boat is very light just a couple hundred lbs.
I just need the wiring harness.
Thanks!
Engine35
Is it still a good price?
The Chip-Stick is a crayon substance and came as a bonus attachment with a bottle of liquid Red Turtle Wax. That's right, the wax is color coded and sold as Red Turtle Wax.
It's too cold where I live to apply at this time.
There may be more, but the tow package comes with class IV receiver, 7 pin trailer light connector, heavy duty battery, trans. cooler, auxillary oil cooler. And, the tow package increases towing capacity to 6,500 lbs from 3,500 lbs. However, not sure how this applies to a stick shift since they're not suitable for towing anything heavy.
BTW, the carpeted floor mats are a rip off. I bought the nice, heavy duty rubber ones at Toyotapartspeople.com.
Also, I just run 87 octane here in CA. I subscribe to a bunch of magazines and have read repeatedly over the years that higher octane isn't worth buying unless your car (or truck) is pinging. I only plan on burning premium (91 octane) when I tow my travel trailer (that I haven't purchased just yet..).
Lastly, I pretty much go by the old idea of driving like I have an egg under my foot when I accelerate - uh, not a hard boiled one! Of course, being a guy, now and then floor the sucker just for the hell of it!
I remember paying $40 just for a 4-pin wiring harness and then having to tap wires on my '92 Toyota pickup.
I guess if you wanted to use a bumper hitch and do your own wiring, you could pull light trailers without spending the $650 for this package. I think you get a lot of utility and maybe resale value with it though.
My price was supposedly $500 over invoice which worked out to around 7.5% off sticker.
Huh? 99% of the big rigs have sticks, but sticks are not suitable for heavy towing? Guess all those trailers they are pulling are empty. My stick is rated the same as autos (or real close). Don't know exact numbers nor do I plan to weigh my trailer and remove 20 pounds if I am slightly over.
First, I didn't say Tacoma's with manual tranny's couldn't tow heavy loads, I just said they're not suitable - ie, you will need a clutch job a long (make that long long) time before you normally would. Your comparison to big rig's having manual tranny's doesn't make sense because the big rigs are designed from scratch to pull/haul many tons because that's what they do. Small trucks like the Tacoma are not designed for this kind of usage as they're primarily passenger hauler's.
Briefly, here's the deal. There is a tremendous amount of slippage & heat buildup in a clutch disc when you start from a dead stop on level ground, let alone a hill. Now, connect a 6,500 lb trailer to your stick shift truck and imagine what kind of heat is being created. Excessive heat kills clutches.
Try this, call your local Toyota service manager and ask him if he recommends a stick or automatic for towing the 6,500 lb maximum.
After I apply and polish the colored wax over the chip-stik I am going to test-apply an overcoat of Zymol and see how well that holds up in my neck of the woods (Northeast USA PA-NY-NJ.
Have you eve applied other wax over the colored Turtle Wax?
I think that you should take pictures and build a case for you to claim 'not as advertised'. Meanwhile, show intent to mitigate (control) further damage and lay a sheet of plywood or thick rubber mat on the bed. Take pics of that too.
Ask your dealership for the Quality Assurance Dept address for Toyota USA. Remember, it's not the dealer who designed the bedliner....together with the dealer, go after Toyota.
So what I'm imagining, and will try when I next get a chance to test-drive one, is to bring along a big car-washing sponge. The plan is to jam it between the bed and the cab, directly below the vent - I'll probably need to take yardstick or something to do this. It will still vent, but it won't get airflow across it, and any pavement noise from below won't get thru the sponge.
Sounds crazy, I know. But I love the thought of losing my 2002 Highlander, and picking up a stick-shift truck. The noise has stopped me so far. But this seems like an easy thing to try.
"Don't buy premium fuel unless you have to---if your owner's manual calls for it or if your car knocks or pings on regular gas. Otherwise, use regular. Our tests have shown that any performance advantages with premium aren't noticeable for normal driving. In most cases, using premium in a car designed for regular gas wastes money."
Other parts of the article talk about Slowing down, Driving Smoothly, Reducing unnecessary drag and Minimizing driving with a cold engine.
Consumer Reports also rates the Tacoma above average in most all rating aspects and states, as per Toyota, that the 4 cyl and 6 cyl use regular gas. I think that when the new V6 was introduced the window sticker called for premium. This is no longer true for the '06 which uses the very same engine.
I use 87, and 89 without mileage distinction nor is there ping. Does anyone reading this get ping while using 87 or 89 octane? What octane and what MPG?
Also, I believe the stress you put on the drivetrain by not using the clutch while shifting (after 1st gear) is setting yourself up for a far more expensive repair job than doing a clutch job.
Last week I was under the truck checking on winter salt and anti skid damage when I noticed that all 3 zerk fittings on the driveshaft were at the 6 o'clock position. Out of curiosity,I got a piece of heavy string and ran it from the front to the rear zerk fittings. When I stretched the string tight, I saw that the zerk on the middle universal joint was nearly 1/2 inch out of alignment with the others.
I noted that the bracket holding the carrier had slotted holes so I loosened the two bolts (14mm)and moved the assembly so that the middle zerk lined up with the front and rear ones.
I'm not saying that this completely cured my vibration but I used to be able to tell when I hit 59 or 60 mph without looking at the speedometer. Now I have to pay attention to see if it's there and usually still can't feel/hear it.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238