Toyota Tacoma 2005+

ecotrklvr

Sounds like a great idea - have you tried this?

smokey888

So, do you have a fix on the exact 'fix-it'? Is it covered by warranty? Any problems getting it done?

soundman34

There is no official fix or TSB for this problem yet. My mechanic (toyota/lexus) friend and I are going to drop the drive shaft and grease the slip yoke assembly. This is only a temporary fix. Eventually it will start to stick again. It will continue to be a problem until toyota fixes the machining process of these parts. I am not sure if the 06's have this problem or not. Is yours an 06? You might be able to get your dealer to replace the whole drive line for you but eventually the problem will come back. If you do go that route make sure they replace the carrier bearing too. I have two problems, the clunk and a vibration at from 0-30 and from 30-0 mph. We believe this to be the carrier bearing with the rubber piece in the center. It is supposed to be resistant to vibration, but we don't think it is doing the job properly. I think I might replace this piece and see what happens. Toyota is considering both of these problems a normal condition. That is what they say until there is not an official TSB out on a problem. Seems like they can't do anything without one here lately. We'll see what happens.

smokey888

What milage did yours start again?

Mine is on '05 (and my MPG is absolutely awful, see other postings on that - I have 7000 miles this 4x2 V6)

Concerning an offical TSB. I can't believe they don't know 'how' to fix it, wouldn't it be more accurate to say, they don't want to cough up the money to fix it! How can we force them to fix it, is the better question. Once it gets out of warranty you can be sure it will then soon 'need' to be fixed.

soundman34

Mine started around the 3000 mile mark. I bought it march 1st of 05 and started to notice it in the summer months. The first time to the dealer they said it was normal and that is how the parts wear which is total BS. I can't imagine parts wearing that bad that early. Longevity is the reason I bought a Toyota in the first place. I am sure they know how to fix it, but what you said is right! I guess they figure if they replace the parts now they will have to do it again when they fix the machining process. Lexus is using jewlers grease to polish the slip yoke to make it more smooth so it doesn't stick as much. My mechanic is going to use a special grease and see what happens. This is the best truck I have ever owned, but these two problems are really getting on my nerves. The stop and go traffic is really annoying with these problems. I find with my dealer that calling Toyota Corp. and telling them about the problems really pushes them to get things done. I did that with the whole exhaust manifold thing and they got it done pretty quickly. I never take the dealers word on anything. Toyota Corp. # 1-800-331-4331. Give that a try, you will probably get quicker results. If enough of us complain, they might be quicker to do the warranty work. I'll let you know how things go with mine.

hammaa

Hi - Has anyone installed the BakFlip tonno cover yet? I'm looking at it very seriously and wanted to hear about the experiences of others. Thanks!!

msibille

Someone had posted (either here or on another board) that they had found that the midshaft bearing (carrier bearing) had not been mounted in line w/ the ends of the propeller shaft on their truck. He loosened the mounting bolts and realigned it w/ the ends and the "vibration" was gone.

U-Joints (unlike CV) do not provide a constant angular velocity (rotational speed) output when deflected from the straight position, but instead, create a sinusoidal velocity profile as the shaft turns. If only 1 U joint were used, either the wheels would turn at varying rates or the engine would (if the system were perfectly rigid). However, if one Ujoint is deflected 5 degrees and another on the opposite end of the prop shaft is deflected -5degrees, the oscillations are 180 deg out of phase and cancel each other. This is why there are always 2 U joints and the tranny output shaft must be parallel to the differential input (although they can be offset). However, if you offset a section of the prop shaft in the horizontal plane, the alignment of the U-joints will not be correct and a component of oscillating angular velocity may remain. This will setup a torsional vibration, which can manifest itself in vibration of any number of parts of the vehicle. Each component of the truck has a natural frequency, and if the impulse of the vibration is near that natural frequency, it will have a tendency to resonate, the vibration only being attenuated by the damping in the system.

All this means that if that mid-prop-shaft bearing is not properly aligned, it can setup a vibration at a certain rpm range. If it is being communicated from the prop shaft/differential/axle/etc to the truck body, that vibration should be noticeable at a certain vehicle speed range. If being reflected back thru the tranny and engine, it may be somewhat independent of vehicle speed, and more related to engine rpm.
In any event, it's worth taking a look at the alignment of the prop shaft and bearing if you are experiencing the vibration problem.

soundman34

Thanks for that post! I will definatly try that. It sounds like it makes sense. I forgot to mention that this vibration goes away while in 4X4.

bill55

Are you saying the shaft actually speeds up and slows down as it turns depending upon the u-joints position with a constant input speed?

geogecko

Do the new 2006 Tacos come with tailgate locks? I've seen pictures of some Tacos out on the web with locks, and saw one in person today. I don't know if they are coming standard, or just aftermarket.

Today I noticed that my right front mud flap was rubbing the tire. I got out, and it had ripped the section from the inside, all the way until the last couple inches of the outside, and that was all that was holding it on. Does that seem odd? I haven't changed the tires from stock, and haven't been off-roading or anything. Would the dealership cover something like this under warranty?

boone88rr

There is no standard tailgate lock option. Any lock that you've seen is a Pop n Lock. Some dealerships have decided to make this available as a dealer installed port option.

I got mine from dynolock.com. That was back when they were selling them for $25 shipped. Not sure what they are at now.

edit: Ouch! $35 now. http://dynolock.com/xcart/catalog/Toyota-Tacoma-2005
Maybe you can find them somewhere else for cheaper now.



The dealership should replace your mudflap but they can always accuse you of off-roading or extreme use. They are something like $80 new. I took mine off so if you, or anyone else, is interested speak up and I'll let them go for half that.

johnm_10

Click Here For More Info

wooddorker

What did the seller tell you when you asked for a refund?

You couldn't see the poor quality BEFORE you installed it in the truck?

I would have returned the kit right off the bat. I sucks to hear that the kit is poor quality, as I was considering it myself.

geogecko

Thanks for posting. That looks pretty nice, for the tailgate lock. Do you have to do any mods, drilling or cutting to install it?

I swung by the dealership yesterday, and the guys were more than happy to replace the flap. I assume that I'll probably have to remove at least the front ones, if I go with a slightly bigger tire when these wear out...but it's nice to know that I'll still have them, if I need them later.

boone88rr

No drilling or cutting. The lock module fits into the existing dimple in the tailgate. The only thing you need to do is take off the back cover of the tailgate with a torx screwdriver. There are two bolts on the Pop n Lock that fit into existing holes under the handle. Then you need to fasten them on backside.

Very easy, takes about 10 minutes but mainly because there are 20 screws in the tailgate you have to take out and put back in.

vincewood30

Even if you have to pay $50 for the lock it's still worth the money for it. I paid $35 for mine at the dealer and they had to special order it. Just remember the tailgate shell alone, no hardware, paint or anything else is about $800. It's well worth the investment plus the Pop N Lock looks like it's a factory option.

havok

I need a reliable and safe vehicle with 4 doors, as I have a baby on the way. This will not be the main family car but my daily driver. I like the new '07 Camry SE V6 but am also considering the Prerunner Double Cab because I find myself hauling stuff around often. I am hesitant to get the Camry because it is so new and there seem to be some issues with their new 6 speed transmissions. I have looked through these forums and have mainly noticed issues with the TACO 4x4s. Any advice on the Prerunner Double Cab?

geogecko

Thank you. I just ordered one. Is there no shipping charge? One did not show up when I checked out.

wooddorker

" I need a reliable and safe vehicle with 4 doors...
...Any advice on the Prerunner Double Cab?"

How safe?

If safety _is_ really a priority, bag the PreRunner and get the normal 2WD truck.

Why? With 4WD, you trade go-more-places for on-road handling and better mileage.

4x4's have slower slalom times and more propensity to flip during panic maneuvers. The higher ride height increases drag at highway speeds, reducing gas mileage. The "normal" 2wd's lower bed is also a tad easier to load than the 4x4 and PreRunner. The PreRunner trades the lower 2wd center of gravity and drag (which is still worse than most cars), and trades it for an "image", with none of the benefits of 4WD.

Last, but not least, Jeepers call it the "PoseRunner"

akatony

I've got the same thing happening. 2005-4x2-6 SPD MT. It only happens in 3rd or 4th gear. I've taken it to two different dealerships and have left it with them for a couple of days each time. It never repeated for them. I notice that you posted a while back, have you had any luck getting this resolved?

boone88rr

wooddorker, He needs a family car. He wants a "reliable and safe vehicle with 4 doors". They don't make the double cab in a 2x4 version. He has to get the "PoseRunner".

Good points but it won't do him any good.

havok, I noticed you mentioned problems with the 4x4's? I'm not sure what you're referring to but I assure you that any problems I'm aware of ('05 paint chipping, ticking, leaf spring squeak) apply to the Prerunners and 2x4's as well. There aren't any posted problems on here or on Toyota Nation that concern the 4x4 only.

I love my truck. I have a 4x4 access cab. No problems in just under a year. I have 14,000 on the odo.

ustazzaf

I've got the same thing happening. 2005-4x2-6 SPD MT.

Is that the PreRunner or standard 4X2?

ustazzaf

The only benefit I see going with the 2WD over the other 2 options is gas mileage. You got a better chance of getting shot by a car-jacker than you do of rolling a Tacoma. The stance is wide enough and sits low enough to not make it an issue. Infact many have dogged the Tacoma for the low ground clearance.
Paint has been an issue for Toyota since they came to America in the 60's. Hasn't hurt their sales.
As for the PreRunner, it does have benefits over a regular 4X2 including better suspension for even minor offroading not requiring 4X4. Also has better clearance for off-roading as well as driving in snow. Nothing stops you quicker than high centering in snow. Also, as mentioned above, you gotta get atleast a PreRunner to get 4 doors. I just went over 10K on my 4X4 TRD O/R 4 door, and could not be much happier (a Tundra would do that). Pay a little more and get the 4X4.

driver56

The new Tacoma received a 4 star roll over rating (very good for a relatively high stance vehicle) which should be an important consideration.
Also, I prefer the outward visibility of the 4x4, or for that matter, the Prerunner.

ahozak

Have not purchased a truck ever. And have not been in a new car dealership for a while. If anoney living in ,aroung Atlanta Ga. ( or anywhere for that matter) could provide some recomendations as to the true negociating possibilities ( is ti like days of old they start way high , you way low and after the back and fourth of let me check with my manager etc.. you come to a price thousands less than MSRP or are dealers wise enough to pretty much start with a reasonable price ( pay it and save the insanity). i.e on Tacoma what is aprox % off sticker most pay.
Thanks,
Allan
Atlanta , Ga

ltmar

I have bought four Toyotas in the last 13 years. I haven't negotiated back and forth on any of them. I went to dealers that were willing to offer a reasonable price at the first request. I get the price for the new vehicle established before discussing trade or financing. I keep those issues separate throughout the deal. I maintain the right to sell my trade myself and finance anywhere I want or pay cash. On the first three, I was offered approx. 11% off sticker. I thought that was fair and accepted. On my 2006 Tacoma, the dealer proposed a price that was 7.5% off sticker which is supposedly $500 over invoice. I was OK with that as they only had one Tacoma on the lot and it took 4 weeks for mine to come in so I couldn't try to negotiate based on excess inventory. I didn't have to place a deposit to order as someone else would have quickly bought the truck if I had declined. I have had some bad experiences with high-pressure and stupid sales people at some Toyota dealerships but I have always been able to find a reasonable dealership within a short drive. Maybe someone has negotiated better deals but overall the reliablility and resale value have made Toyota ownership painless.

akatony

It is a PreRunner w/4L engine.

akatony

That should read 3rd AND 4th gear.

wooddorker

"wooddorker, He needs a family car. He wants a "reliable and safe vehicle with 4 doors". They don't make the double cab in a 2x4 version. He has to get the "PoseRunner". "

Thanks for setting me straight. Maybe a Subaru or Volvo wagon with a 4x8 trailer?

BTW, also overheard in my local pub:

"PoorRunner"
"PreTender"

Don't shoot the mesenger! :sick:

It was pointed out to me that the Toyota puts the same TRD Off-Road decals that are on my 4x4 on the PreRunner, and the same guys were wondering if the Pre was the inspiration for the Ford 4x4 commercial a few years back. Remember "Is your off-road package just decals?..."

We all get along well, but it was a funny conversation.

ktaggin

I have a 2006 Tacoma Reg. Cab 4cyl. 5spd.

I have noticed that when I am driving at speeds greater than 60 mph and I depress the clutch or shift into neutral (attempting to coast downhill), the engine does not reduce RPMs at all. If I am at 3500 RPM in 5th and I want to just coast down a long straight hill, I put it in neutral and the engine stays at 3500 RPMs. This will last until:
A) The vehicle slows to less than 60 MPH
or
I shift into gear and release the clutch.
This is annoying and kills my fuel economy. I live by a long steep grade mountain pass that is great for coasting on descent.

Does anyone else have this problem or know for sure if it is a new engine management control?

len888

Have any of you reading this post know of any incidents of gas theft yet? I think it is something to plan for, like some sort of screen or lock system. Comments? Ideas?

vincewood30

I had the same problem with my '05 Prerunner that had the 4 cylinder 5 Speed. After a trip to New Mexico in that truck I got the '06 Prerunner with the V6 6 Speed. Even going over the Grapevine here in So Cal I didn't drop a gear or anything. As far as fuel economy goes the V6 is better than the 4. I noticed that problem in the 4 since the day I bought it, especially with gas at $3.27 a gallon here I'd be wondering also.

pheonix2

I think you are bang on! I reported on this website about my suspicions with the slipjoint and carrier bearing on my 06 DC 4 by 4. I convinced the Toyota people to replace the entire driveline ASAP. When I last reported to this website this had been done and everything was as smooth a silk. What I did not report was that four days after the driveshaft was changed out, I went out on the freeway and encountered a severe vibration of the driveline anywhere past 100 KPH. A closer inspection of this new drive shaft revealed more balance weights than a box of chicklets. There were thirteen in all and some were 180 degrees apart? Another disturbing thing I noticed was that the carrier bearing mounting holes are quite large thus allowing the bearing to be positioned way off center to the running line of the drive shaft (favoring the passenger's side). The machanic did not even try to get centre. It was off by almost a 1/4". I backed the bolts off and tried to adjust to centre but there was not enough clearance in the mounting holes to achieve centre. Still it was alot closer than the Toyota mechanic had got it. The vibration at highway speeds was now greatly diminished but still present. One more thing the Toyota mechanic had failed to do was match mark the factory marking of the components. This basically puts the high spots of the transfercase and rear diff. flanges to the light satic balance spots on the driveshafts. These people should know this! Check your new vehicle driveline and you will see a yellow mark on each end of your driveshaft and light blue or purple marks on the transfercase/diff. These marks ensure the heavey runout points of the flanges mate to the light static balance points of the shafts.

I informed Toyota that this shaft was unacceptable and I wanted it out ASAP. They complied and brought in another complete driveline. The second replacement arrived and it only had three small balance weights on it. Toyota installed it and after two tries managed to match the factory marks. I warned them about shifting the carrier bearing support so that it was centred to the driveline. What they did was centre it to the clearance hole and air impacted the bolts. This permanently dimpled the mountinig plate so that the carrieer bearing mount will not position anywhere else. This all translates to the carrier bearing being out of line with the driveshaft. The fact that the crossmember support for the carrier bearing will not allow for the carrier bearing to be properly centered is to say the least disturbing. As it stands now the latest driveline has two critical areas of speed in which you can feel vibration at 60 KPH and 105 KPH. After 2,000 Kilometers it is starting to shutter on the 1 / 2 shift at light to moderate throttle. Sometimes a light vibration is noticable on a heavier than normal takeaway from a stop sign.

The main questions are 1. Why is the carrier bearing not able to be directly inline with the driveshaft?(This is an absolute must!) Are the engine and transfercase out of position or is the crossmember positioning the carrier bearing factory flawed? 2. Is the rear differential misaligned? 3. Are the Dana Spicer slipyokes of such poor quality that even if good alignment is achieved this shuttering would still be an issue? 4. Are the leaf springs so mushy that shaft wrap is excessive?
Not very impressed Toyota, this is not how to become number "1".
I have requested a meeting with one of their factory engineers and I will settle for no one else. I will address all of the above questions. I will keep you informed.

wooddorker

"Have any of you reading this post know of any incidents of gas theft yet?"

Only out of my airplane, which happens to be a felony.

I lost 20 gallons of 100LL ($4.55/gal at the the time) last fall. Two other aircraft got hit during the same week at the same field. Cops attributed it to ricer racers.

Other than that, I haven't even seen it in my local Police Blotter columns.

boone88rr

No, I haven't heard of any gas robberies around here, yet. Wait until we hit $4.00 for that.

I have a Stant locking gas cap on my truck. Not so much for preventing gas from coming out but more for preventing idiots from putting stuff in. Search "locking gas cap" and you'll find the part number.

I do believe I read a post that these trucks have a screen in the fill tube to prevent syphoning and also big chunks of debris from getting into the tank.

len888

I will look at the Toyota '05 set of manuals to see if a screen/trap is resident in the filler neck. (The manuals cost me $550.US). I was hoping that a keylock could be adapted to the access door over the filler cap because a filler/trap does not stop idiots from putting stuff in the tank. May have to invent something to help myself stop potential gas theft.

ustazzaf

All the complaints about the carrier bearing being off made me check mine. Imagine my surprise to see that there is absolutely no left to right adjustment possible. The holes are not elongated side to side. Of course there is a couple inches fore and aft for adjustment. Well, ok I was not surprised. I have changed hundreds, and there is never any adjustment for a reason. No room for error. However, if there is a slight movement to one side or the other, why is that different then having a slight bend down? Most drive shafts do bend down to the axle after the carrier bearing (that is why the carrier is used sometimes, so the shaft can be kept higher further back and then angled down). If it was not allowed to be angled, you would have major problems if the rear end were weighted down.

iqbaldhillon2

Does anybody know where to get a black bed spray or something, I recently had a new composite bedding system put in to my Tacoma. After a couple uses its already scratched up. I hear a bed spray can fix the problem for good. Where can I buy one? Please reply back Thanks.

ustazzaf

I have not heard of anyone adding a spray to the Tacoma (mine is holding up to cinder blocks and anything I can throw at it), but if you are going to add a spray, Rhino lining is so far above anything else in quality that I would look nowhere else. You should be able to find a installer almost everywhere.

pheonix2

If you go back to message #6928 by msbille, it is explained much more eloquently than I can. Basically the other angles offsets cancel out because there is a universal at each end. If you change an angle you must counter it with another universal. That is why there is always one on either end. It is my understanding that if there is an angle change mid way they would have to have what is called an double cardan joint ( two universals back to back). The Toyota shop manual is very specific; get that shaft straight while mounting the carrier bearing! On my carrier bearing mount, the holes are elongated in line with the drive shaft but the clearance hole itself allows for quite a shift in straight line position. The whole point is that even this hole clearance is not enough to bring the two shafts in line with each other. The Tundra 4 by 4 pickup uses this double universal with the slipyoke at the rear differential.

The bottom line in all of this rhetoric is that a driveline should be smooth and have no vibration what so ever. If there is any inherent resonation or vibration at any frequency all parts associated will have shorter than expected life spans. This translates directly to increased maintenance costs much sooner than need be. In Canada these vehicles cost us 41,000.00 plus 14.5% taxes. We've paid enough already and the drivelines should not vibrate or resonate, period!

The whole point of these discussions are to find the truth behind what is causing the driveline resonation that start developing after 3-4,000 Kilometers in the 1 / 2 shift patterns of these truck. Replace the entire driveline and the problem disapears, only to come back in due time. There could be more than one cause to all of this.

For my money I'm betting the causes are: 1. The relative positioning of the carrier bearing cross frame support, 2. the carrier bearing resilient mounting material is too weak, and 3. the inferior quality of the slipyoke spline.

practicalguy1

Toyota Tacoma 2006 Access Cab and 2WD 2.7 4 cyl.
Looks and drives great and managed a great out the door price on it( 19,870 - that includes tax, title, license).

I note the body does appear elevated with noticable large
wheel well gap between body and standard size tires.

Can you experts out there post links to sites that would definitely have "street" fender flares. Just need the black accents against the dark red color and to reduce the wheel well gap slightly. Thanks

boone88rr

I have a few, practically new items, for sale.

K&N Drop-in filter, Part #: 33-2281

K&N Cone Style Filter w/ adapter and Drycharger Wrap, Part #: RF-1042 and RF-1042DY

Please follow the following link for more details: http://toyotanation.com/forum/t134504.html

Thanks.

len888

I feel a sense of urgency to install a locking gas cap to deter gas theft. Especially now that the gov't issued a statement that gas is going to stay high for 3 more years.
Oil crude is $73 US a barrel today.

Tomorrow I pick up my Stant locking cap at the auto parts store. Stant makes caps to fit the '05 Access Cab. My cost $22US including sales tax.

My intuition has served me well over the years.

havok

Has anyone installed an in-dash DVD Nav system? I think a a factory system is available in the Tundra. Why not Tacoma?

cncmfg

http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_2&products_id=1260198005

i saw the dyno sheet for this i will post it in a follow up. 305 rwhp 360 ftlbs, 7LBS boost.

URD seems to be really short on all the other information. short of price 4700! and lead time. estimated to be june.

boone88rr

Dyno results for URD S/C kit

geogecko

Wow, it really smooths out the power response. Almost flat accross the RPM band, from 1800-5000+...

Expensive though...

len888

I just retrofitted with a locking gas cap and want to share some cost benefit info. Not from using the cap, rather where one buys it. I went to the local auto parts store which is a chain store named CarQuest. The package reads Made In USA with a coporate location of Raleigh, NC.
CarQuest Part No. 35072 for a '05 Access Cab. The store gave me a veteran discount. List $32. Sell $14 + tx. The pkg reads "Made by Stant".

Retrofit means losing the anti-loss cord which connects the Tacoma cap to the access door.

occataco

I have an Eclipse AVN5435. Eclipse is an aftermarket brand from Fujitsu Ten which also makes factory headunits for Toyotas and Lexus.

It works Great! only drawback is the "zit zit" sound that the DVD navigation diskdriver makes when in navigation mode. It may be annoying to some folks. But they also have harddisk navigation model AVN7000 (?) which probably won't have the "zit zit" noise issue.

my cost was $1300 +150 installation( Super Autobacs in Stanton,CA). I also had the rear view camera Eclipse BEC105 ($200) installed in the middle top of the rear license plate

Some dealers do have factory DVD NAV option for 05+ tacomas which are equivalent to Eclipse AVN5495. But cost is almost twice at $2500 (Elmore Toyota in Westminster,CA)

iqbaldhillon2

Why did Toyota use the SAE ratings for 2006 Nissan didnt neither did Honda. Why It brought Tacoma horsepower and torque ratings down. Last year: 245 horsepower 282 pound feet torque. This year: 236 horsepower 266 pound feet torque.