Toyota Tacoma 2005+

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Comments

  • offroader3offroader3 Member Posts: 37
    Yeah I have a AVIC-N2 with Pioneer 5.1 digital processor surround,Soundstream amps,Fusion brand speakers,sound gorgeous!!!Also put a flip down panel tv for my kids at the back.they loved it...
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    Why?

    One, because it isn't required, yet. Secondly, it costs a decent amount of money to re-run all of your tests for an entire fleet of cars. And third, It might be my opinion but Nissan lives and dies with it's HP claims. A lot of people don't understand why the numbers dropped but they do understand that a drop in HP has a negative connotation. Nissan (and maybe Honda) didn't want to take the marketing hit until they have to.
  • geogeckogeogecko Member Posts: 225
    Has anyone here used any of the Tacoma Donahoe Racing suspension lift kits? Specifically, the front coil-overs, with rear full leaf replacements and shocks? I noticed it seems they have a new adjustable rear shock.

    I was just interested in what people thought. They are rather expensive, but it is probably the best way to do a lift.
  • franckforetfranckforet Member Posts: 6
    I've had that problem, Took the truck to the dealer and they had to open the transmission and change a gear or a hub or a sleeve (No shure). They told me the problem was a loose between tne sleeve and the hub. Mine was happening only on 4th gear. Now it seems to be solved, though I still feel the little vibration that would come before the transmission shifts to neutral.

    If you need more precise info, I can give the info written on the invoice. The problem was Covered by waranty.
  • akatonyakatony Member Posts: 4
    That would be great if you could give me more info. If you could, please include the phone # and mechanic's name that would be a big help. Then I could talk to him directly, and possibly get a mechanic here to talk to him. If you would rather email me that info: akatonyk(a)hotmail.com. Thanks alot!
  • practicalguy1practicalguy1 Member Posts: 10
    Did you find some front flaps that worked good for your vehicle? I just picked up the 4x2 access cab as well with sr5 but need to apply the front guards as well. Please send me any links if you had success. Also, did you get larger wheels? The standard wheels seem to allow an open look to the wheel wells. I tried looking for vinyl fender flares to maybe fill an inch of space there but no luck.
  • franckforetfranckforet Member Posts: 6
    I'm working on it! I live in Canada, (Quebec city) so it is possible that the mecanic speaks only french. But I'm shure there is someone bilingual in there.... Probably the technician...

    Anyway, I'll send you the infos you asked by E-Mail, you will recieve it from franckforet(a)hotmail.com. Confirm reception please.
  • marsbmarsb Member Posts: 1
    HELP! My expensive new Trac Rac system i had installed on my 04 Tacoma won't fit on my 06 Tacoma. Apparantly the beds on the 05/06 Tacomas are slightly wider than the previous Tacomas. Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone else been able to come up with some system to make the Trac Rac system fit the newer Tacomas? Trac Rac say they do not currently have anythimg to fit the newer Tacomas. I really don't want to buy a whole new rack system at this stage and am just trying to think up an idea for a wider base rail that i can attach my racks to. I considered using a 2" x 4" (which would work )but would look a litlle crude on the new truck to say the least. I also thought of maybe getting ot lengths of box iron (but made out of aluminum so it would look slightly better). Any info would be much appreciated . thanks
  • pathfinderpathfinder Member Posts: 7
    Trivial question, but what the heck:
    Has anyone replaced the manual shift knob with a Sparco shifter? I'm specifically thinking of the R-speed. Have, over the years, gotten used to a more solid feel and the OEM padded leather shifter that Toyota provides, while very nice looking, just is too squishy for my driving style. Wondering about the Sparco "fit", about whether it would get cross-threaded, and whether it eventually will become loose and ineffective. Have found the Sparco online for somewhere between 65-85 bucks..so if anyone has thoughts on pricing, that would be appreciated, too...
  • schoolieschoolie Member Posts: 6
    i'm running the Donahoe CO's (with Total Chaos UCA's) up front and i have Deaver custom 12 leaf packs with Bilstein 7100 shocks in the rear. all i can say is WHAT A DIFFERENCE! i love the way the truck rides... on and off road. expensive - yes.
  • smittyinncsmittyinnc Member Posts: 5
    I have a vibration problem around 20 MPH ( most noticeable during deceleration), other than that my new PreRunnner 2006 is great. Is this the condition you all are describing as a "driveline clunk ' ? Toyota is telling me it's a normal condition for purge vacuum valve on a charcoal canister. I'm not buying their logic.
  • soundman34soundman34 Member Posts: 36
    No. The driveline clunk is a different problem. My truck has both the vibration and the clunk. The clunk is the slip yoke assembly sticking. The problem stems from not being greased properly and the machining process of the assembly itself. If you don't have the clunk now, it is possible you will have it eventually, usually around the 5000 mile mark. You can feel it when coming to a stop and when accelerating from a stop. It is most noticable when it is warmer outside. Mine goes away in the fall and winter (temps below 55 degrees). Toyota is giving the normal speach until there is a TSB (none yet).
  • geogeckogeogecko Member Posts: 225
    Sounds cool. I noticed that the ride of the truck, while mostly pretty reasonable for a truck, really dives into corners, especially when braking. I think this probably has somewhat to do with the stiff rear suspension...

    Pardon my ignorance, but what are UCA's? Upper control arms?

    I e-mailed DR with some questions. It appears they have a new kit for the rear, adjustable rear shocks...

    Just wondering what wheels and tires you have. Any issues there?
  • smittyinncsmittyinnc Member Posts: 5
    Soundman, just want to clarify, you have a vibration problem related to the 'Clunk' and not a 20 MPH vibration problem that I have ?
  • soundman34soundman34 Member Posts: 36
    The vibration I have is not related to the clunk. Not sure what is going to happen when the slip yoke issue is fixed. That may or may not help the vibration. At this point I would have to say that they are not related. I am pretty sure that the vibration is in the carrier brearing somewhere. As soon as work settles down I am going to take the truck to my mechanic friend (toyota/lexus cert.) and see what he can do. I know what the dealers answer will be.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    "Any info would be much appreciated "

    I installed a Thule Xsporter 421 on my '05, with Thule's XK1 Tacoma kit.

    Check out the XK1 tech info on thule.com, you could possibly modify it to fit the TracRac rails to the Taco tracks.

    Good luck!
  • iqbaldhillon2iqbaldhillon2 Member Posts: 116
    Sorry to burst your bubble but your just gonna have to buy new ladder racks that fit this Tacoma.
  • nascarfan00nascarfan00 Member Posts: 4
    I'm looking to but some floor liners for my 2006 Tacoma Double Cab. I've pretty much narrowed it down to the Nifty Catch-All Xtremes and the Husky Floor Liners. I'm looking to buy both the front and rear liners for the truck. If anyone owns either of these brand products, could you post a message detailing your thoughts on your purchase. Thanks!!
  • pheonix2pheonix2 Member Posts: 12
    Check that the carrier bearing is directly inline with the centre axis of the two drive shafts. There is a little side to side movement in the bearing mount clearance holes but not much. Even a slight movement towards the driver's side will make a difference in the vibration at highway speeds. The carrier bearing mounts seem to put a kick in the driveline towards the passenger's side. This will cause vibration! It might even be the cause of pumping all the grease out of the slipyoke, causing it to hang up and clunk when it starts to move in the spline.

    I have looked under an 06 DC (6 months old 14,000 km)that the owner says is as smooth as silk and has never experienced any clunking or vibration, his driveline was straight as an arrow!

    Makes you wonder why some drivelines are straight and some have a kick in the centre at the carrier bearing. Was there a bad batch of cross-arm frame supports from the manufacturer?
  • geogeckogeogecko Member Posts: 225
    Hey. I never knew about the Nifty brand liners.

    Personally, the Husky ones do not look all that great, or do the front driver's side appear to have the holes for the hooks (could be wrong).

    The Nifty looks like a better fit, and more custom look.

    I ended up getting the WeatherTech versions, and love them. I have the gray interior, and went with the black ones, because I thought the gray ones might not be an exact match in color. I think the black looks really good.

    http://www.weathertech.com/store/vehsearch.asp?item_group_id=52&make_id=52&year_- no=2005&veh_id=660&veh_opt_choice_id=592

    One thing I like about the WT ones, is that they have a rim around the edge, all the way around. So if you were to spill something on the mat, it would pretty much stay on the mat. It looks like the Nifty's might be the same way.
  • nascarfan00nascarfan00 Member Posts: 4
    How do you like the fit and coverage of the Weathertech's? Do you have the one for the rear seat also, and if you do, how is the fit and coverage of the rear one? I also have the gray interior, but I would buy the gray ones as I'm looking for liners that match as much as possible. Thanks for you initial and any future responses!!
  • geogeckogeogecko Member Posts: 225
    I think the fit and coverage is excellent, much better than the stock floor mats. The nice thing, is that it fits the contours of the floor board perfectly, even has a little part that goes over part of the left foot rest.

    The rear one fits perfectly as well. It goes over the hump, as you can see from the pictures, and has good coverage of the rear floor. They even go under the front seat a couple inches, which is nice, if you throw stuff in the back floor like I do, your stuff doesn't end up way under the front seat, because of the ridge.

    The gray ones would probably look better than the black. The black makes the truck look a bit smaller on the inside, not sure why, just the color, I guess, but I'm still glad I got them.

    My wife even liked them, said they were utilitarian, or something like that...
  • oootocomaoootocoma Member Posts: 2
    Hi all the Vibration in the tocoma is unfixable, the toyota dealership attempted to fix it 4 times and a engineer from toyota came to fix it and could not. He said that all tocomas have this and they dont know what it is from. I requested an arbritration and durring the arbritration the Toyota Sales Representative said that the vibration is a characteristic of the truck and so is the knock from the rear suspension. The stupid arbritrator rejected my arbitration. Toyota did nothing to help the dealership representative lied and said exactly what they told him to say.
  • oootocomaoootocoma Member Posts: 2
    Hi Phenonix, do you think the vibration can be fixed. And what about the rear clunking noise is there a solution for that or not. I might take the truck to the dealer next week.
  • pheonix2pheonix2 Member Posts: 12
    There is a Toyota TSB ( Technical Service Bulletin )issued by Toyota on the rear leaf springs. Tell that goof at the dealership to look it up please. They cannot run away from there own TSB! It is a fix for a couple of symptoms, one of which you described. Play close attention to the carrier bearing mount, it must locate the bearing so that the driveshafts are perfectly straight! If it does not, it will affect the dynamic balance of the two shafts. No two driveshafts will react the same way to a misaligned carrier bearing, but they will vibrate at different frequencies and amplitudes!
  • geogeckogeogecko Member Posts: 225
    Never mind. I just called them (they are actually local to me), and he said it's a supplier thing. They are actually made in Canada, so they appear to be sitting at customs...
  • practicalguy1practicalguy1 Member Posts: 10
    Did you get any resolution to what you wished to do with your tacoma? I just purchased 2006 4cyl 2.7 access cab sr5. Got a great deal on price- total with TTL and then paying my license at BMV still brings all expenses to under 20k. :)

    Anyway, I too am finding that I would like the fender flares on the vehicle now, and bigger tires maybe in about a year. Did you find anyone that can apply appropriate fender flares?
  • dag2dag2 Member Posts: 1
    I cant figure out how to start a new topic...???

    I have a question about sun visors. I have a new Tacoma base model. I would like to get some visors with the extensions / mirrors on them. Will the SR5 visors work on my tacoma?
    Thanks
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Member Posts: 92
    :confuse: Paints chipping where? Are you sure you werent drunk one night and started driving like a lunatic down a gravel road? How can NEW truck with 15000 on the odometer have paint chipping like gravel has hit it UNLESS gravel has hit it through abusive driving which would be YOUR fault this story sounds like a crock of doodoo.
  • losonelosone Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2006 Tacoma 2.7 5sp access cab with 3000 miles. Since birth, the cold engine start is 3,000 to 3,200 RPM. Many trips to the dealer and there is no "fix" because of the "fly by wire" system.

    It takes a good 2-3 minutes for the engine idle at 1500 so I can use the clutch. Using the 5sp at 3K is impossible.

    I am a master mechanic with over 40 + years of experience and I am a master technition and administrator on the www.2carpros.com web site.

    One of the Toyota techs I have known for 30 + years suggested "fooling" the temp sensor which I did so the ECM would think it was 140 degrees.

    It did no good what so ever. I am at a loss and in typical Toyota fashion they said, I have to deal with it. The battle lines are drawn but I would like to find a solution as a matter of good mechanics.

    Has any one had this problem or is it an isolated case??

    Lee Parmeter, Biloxi, Ms
  • bill55bill55 Member Posts: 25
    I have also bought a Tacoma from the same dealer as you back in June 05 and while I do have some chips it is not nearly as bad as what you have. I was wondering what the build date was on that truck? I hear that Nissan is using water based paint like Toyota and is having their problems too. I have read of the manual transmission problem as well but I seen that alot of people got that repaired under warranty.
    BTW thats a pretty good idea of getting your point across to Toyota putting "lemon" decals on the truck. That should get some attention from them.
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Member Posts: 92
    I dont get it I've owned three Toyota Trucks although not a 05 or newer and all paint jobs from factory were magnificant now all of a sudden new trucks have paint chipping,no body states where the paint is chipping on the vehicle either? You cant use waterbased paint on cars for obvisous reasons ,are you drunk too.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    Love your site. Many things come to mind when viewing. Number one, why did you pay 35K for a used truck when they are 28K new? Number 2, buying a lemon is like having an ex wife, you picked it. Number 3, you bought it with 8.5K on it. How can you say that the previous drivers did not abuse it by running in salt water or they DID run through loose gravel and chipped it, but buffed it out to make it not noticeable right away. Number 4, maybe they ran the crap out of it jamming gears and tore them up. Number 5, maybe your other trucks didn't kick dirt up on the back end, buy aerodynamics change. I know my backend is always dirty.
    I love the red truck that is also posted on your site. There is obvious vandalism (probably by the owner). Notice the long scratch and the letter A scratched in the paint. Really shows the credibility of the site.
  • iqbaldhillon2iqbaldhillon2 Member Posts: 116
    I am also having problems with my Tacoma. I just bought it last year and it already has about 5 paint chips.And it only has about 27,000 miles on the odometer. I had a 1999 Tacoma and I never had a problem like this before.
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    Just wondering......do you guys who have alot of paint chips have:
    1) mudflaps front and rear as well as running boards?
    2) Do you drive on unpaved roads? I do so occasionally, but drive at a crawl when not of pavement.

    Your chipping complaints don't mention these variables.
    My '05 has no chips to speak of.
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    Toyota uses lead-free paint and therein lies the root cause of paint chipping easily.
  • eaglegeagleg Member Posts: 87
    All manufacturers use the new paint.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    Saying the paint type is the cause for paint chips is like saying that windshields are defective if rocks chip them. It is the lack of protection that causes chips in paint and windshields. The body my curve in a little different than other vehicles, making the lower panels more likely to get chips. Installing mud flaps and running boards will eliminate that problem. If the paint is flaking (see most GMs of the 80's and 90's), that is defective paint. I have not heard anyone claim paint flake on Toys (of course I will now). Just like some vehicles are not as likely to get a window chip because of the design, some vehicles may not get paint chips because of their design. It is not a flaw. If you never drive on roads with gravel, you won't have the problem. If you do, you modify as needed. If I live where it never rains, I don't need a canopy. If I do, I modify my truck with a canopy to protect my stuff.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    "2) Do you drive on unpaved roads? I do so occasionally, but drive at a crawl when not of pavement."

    FWIW, Paved roads can chip any paint and windshields.

    - Some locales use a product called "chipseal" where small stones are "glued" together with a thick plasticky oil. This stuff sheds pebbles and sharp chips all through it's life cycle. This stuff is CHEAP, so more and more DOT's are applying it to secondary roads.

    - Many locales no longer screen winter sand as well as they used to. This sand can contain small pebbles, GLASS CHIPS, etc... when applied to roads.

    - Highway and and strip mall construction sites are constant sources of rocks and other abrasives.

    What to do? SLOW DOWN in construction zones, and where constuction vehicles often travel. 40 MPH stones do a lot less damage than 70 MPH stones. LEAVE MORE SPACE between you and the vehicle in front of you, letting the kicked up debris settle back to the surface. Don't drive behind the road sander (this should be obvious, but I see it every storm).

    Most motor and bicyclists are very aware of the above conditions, because they are painful. :cry:

    My wife sandblasted a '91 Mazda Protege in just a few months. There was nothing wrong with Mazda's paint, and it never left pavement.

    Often, a good indicator of a finish problem is when the windshield is pristine, but the paint is chipped. Chips in the windshield? Debris!
  • white05tacowhite05taco Member Posts: 17
    Lee mine does the same - I have the same model/engine/trans as you, only it's an '05. However mine doesn't rev quite as high on cold starts ("only" up to about 2,200 RPM, which I think is still too hight for a cold engine) and it settles down to about 1,500 rpm after about 45 seconds, and then down to the normal level after driving a quarter mile.

    I heard this is done for emission purposes, to warm up the catalyst as fast as possible.

    This issue has been mentioned in the past on this forum, and evidently it is one of those "that's just the way it is" things, as there seems no way to adjust it.

    It is annoying.

    Andy
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    I guess it could be annoying. :confuse: Although I'm not sure why you are so bothered by it. It was engineered to work that way. It's not something like the injector tick that you "have to live with".

    I don't think anyone will be complaining 5 years from now when the emmissions standards are even higher and other car and truck owners have to shell out money in order to meet the specs.

    If this annoys you, things are going to get worse before they get better.
  • driver56driver56 Member Posts: 408
    You mean you haven't seen the petition going around the internet regarding 05 Tacoma paint problems? There seems to be more than enough of it unfortunately. I don't know if I would be blaming Toyota's new painting process, or that they are now using low solvent paints (low voc). It could be as simple as a few lousy paint jobs. In my opinion, today's paints are better now then they have ever been, so Toyota should work it out.
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    Toyota's paint IS very prone to chip. Lexus or Mercedes
    Benz are examples of paint which is not as prone to chipping. Agree or disagree. Why, why not? Nobody said paint per se causes chipping. Stones and like debris cause chipping.
  • havokhavok Member Posts: 18
    I have done some searches but was wondering if there are any problems specific to the Double Cab PreRunners? It seems that the driveline clunk thingy is specific to the 4x4s, no?
    I want one of these bad (2006) but want to know if there is anything I should watch out for.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    I have done some searches but was wondering if there are any problems specific to the Double Cab PreRunners? It seems that the driveline clunk thingy is specific to the 4x4s, no?
    I want one of these bad (2006) but want to know if there is anything I should watch out for

    Ya, watch out for Toy haters that have never even sat in one, but claim they have all kinds of problems. Buy one and enjoy it like the rest of the owners.
  • glen_hglen_h Member Posts: 11
    I have an 05 Double Cab PreRunner SR5 Package #8 long bed, and I haven't had any problems at all. No paint chips, no windshield leaks, no drive line clunks, no rear spring clunks, no air leaks or whistles around the windows. That's after 12,000 miles of driving.

    I did a lot of on-line research before I bought mine and was a little worried about all the issues people were talking about. But I really liked the truck so I bought it. Either I'm really lucky, or the frequency of problems with the new Tacos isn't very high. I say take one for a ride and see how you like it.

    Cheers,

    Glen
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    the frequency of problems with the new Tacos isn't very high.

    Bingo!

    We did a small poll on Toyota Nation amongst 2005+ owners. About 200 owners responded and roughly 20 reported a major problem (Paint chips being the main gripe). I would lower that percentage even further to about 5% (if that) since most owners with problems (paint chipping especially) are simply trolling these boards for the sake of griping about it to make themselves feel better. Yes it sucks but the occurrence is way in the minority. The internet is very good at increasing paranoia and conveying that problems are more widespread than they really are.

    How many times have you read that the Tacoma requires premium gas? Completely untrue and yet it self-perpetuated itself all over the internet. Thanks Car & Driver!

    You have to also understand that the poll was completely informal. Some people believe that the rear leaf squeak (which was fixed by a TSB) and the injector tick are major problems. It's all in the eye of the anal forum member.
  • white05tacowhite05taco Member Posts: 17
    Well I wouldn't say that I'm unduly bothered by it. I am just of the opinion that when it's thirty degrees outside and my truck is stone cold that it may not be the best thing in the world (lubrication wise) for the engine to run at half way to redline when I start it up. From what I've read, about 90% of engine wears occurs at startup in the seconds before oil is circulating at full pressure. We all know that even with modern synthetics, cold oil doesn't flow as well as hot oil, so I've drawn the conclusion that high rpm at cold startup isn't such a good thing.

    I have no beef with strong emission standards. I live in So Cal and can rememember the day's back in the 60's before smog controls. We've got five times as many people living here now and the air is still far better than it was back then.
  • smittyinncsmittyinnc Member Posts: 5
    oootocoma, Appears we are in the same boat. I lost in arbitration a few weeks ago. But Toyota is telling me it's a purge vacuum valve and a charcoal canister !!!! And that it's normal ( no matter what they say IT ISN'T NORMAL) I test drove 3 of their other new trucks on the lot and theirs didn't have the vibration at 20 mph. Curious as to what exactly they are telling you is normal on your truck. Also does yours only vibrate once it's warmed up ?
  • boone88rrboone88rr Member Posts: 194
    Does it often get down to 30 degrees in So Cal?

    I'm not too worried about the engine wear due to start up. I had an oil analysis done on my oil I ran for 6 months through a New England winter (Sept. - Mar.). Wear numbers were very low for a fairly new engine. Copy of UOA

    Don't you think the engineers might have considered your concern? I assure you that unless you are somewhere in far northern Canada, your truck is not starting up "stone cold" and the wear is not affected by the high revs.

    All multi-weight oils can handle the cold weather quite well. Visit bobistheoilguy.com for more in depth information.

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