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In my two month hunt (i.e. obsession), I found a wide variety of dealer pricing. Most would offer 500 off MSRP; a few 1,000 off. Some said they would only take sticker price. I've always loved to play 'the game' with dealers (maybe because I just like to argue), and this is the first time I've had to wait for a vehicle to be built. I walked out of no less than 8 dealerships who would not meet my price....and they didn't call me back to ask me to come back and talk. They simply didn't have to because they had so few available. This was new territory for me.
After hearing so many dealers say they would get me one if I put up a down payment, or that they had one or two coming in next month, I grew tired of the game. So a friend of mine referred me to a broker who got me the truck I wanted in less than an hour (delivery in two weeks, I hope) and I paid 2,000 off MSRP. This was about what I expected the dealers to take but they acted like I was crazy to make such a low offer. Let's face it, if you like the truck and you don't feel like you got totally screwed, what difference is a couple hundred bucks going to make when you have the best truck in the class? I think having the truck will quickly eliminate the pain of paying for it.....course that's just an opinion.
Any help/suggestions please......
I decided to order the same cover for my dc/sb. Was the install as simple as claimed by Extang and Autoanything? Did you have to cut the bed or rails as some suggested? Can you post a picture for us? Or share the details (lessons learned)? Looks like a good top and you can't beet the price.
Thanks!
After I put in all five screws underneath, the protector was snug/flush against the underside of the hood. Yeah it's about 3/8" thick so it will make it a little bit higher but mine isn't noticeable against the quarter panels. It looks to me that it just depresses that weather stripping a bit more when the hood latches.
I think you should double check the part number, reinstall it and make sure the underside is flush to the hood. If neither of those work and the hood sticks up noticeably, I would send it back, maybe yours got bent or disfigured during shipping or production. Good luck.
Check out this link from Tundra Solutions. Wish it ws better news. www.tundrasolutions.com/vehicles/color_chart.htm
I'm preparing to meet with the financing dept. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated
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kirstie_h
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
1. Does the valet key also have the chip?
2. Can I make a plain-metal copy, and use that to lock the doors with the master key inside - then unlock with the copy and start the truck with the master?
3. Is there a practical way of keeping the key dry in ~100 ft of water?
BTW, I'm only talking about the key itself, not the remote fob.
Thanks!
You can lock your chip key in the car with a non chip key, I use a free plastic one AAA gave me, it works fine.
kbshadow
What KB said.
I use the Gray valet key that was included with the truck to lock the doors when kayaking and mountain biking. The valet key is easily copied by any hardware store.
I sail, and sometimes in races, things get a bit wild.
I had a cheap metal copy made at Walmart -which as noted, will not start the engine, but will open the doors. I attached a medium size "floaty" that would keep the key from sinking if I drop it at the dock or something, but it still fits in my pocket. Since I park at our club which is relatively secure, I just stash the regular key in the cab and lock/unlock w/ the non-chip key.
If you really want more security, you could take one of your OEM keys, and cut the stem (keyed part) off and toss it. You could leave the head (w/ the chip) locked in your vehicle, and carry the cheap copy from Walmart. When you come back to your vehicle, unlock w/ the copy, then to start your vehicle, place the OEM head against the copy, insert into the ignition, and start. ONce started, you're good to go.
Try this without cutting the stem from the key before you do, but I think you'll see what I'm saying. In this way, IF someone enters your vehicle and finds the key, they still can't start the vehicle unless they've also got a key to fit the lock, or they wire-around.
Perhaps the DC sizes will fit the AC models.
I do not want the Toyota brand as they are level with the floor (so what would be the point of having them except for door-ding protection?).
Thanks for any info.
The key I'm talking about will not start the truck, as it has no chip or other electronics. It does have gray vinyl on it, however. I know this because I lost a key, brought this key to the dealer, and was told that it has no electronics in it, and therefore will not start the truck. According to my dealer, there's nothing to hurt by water, magnets, etc... in the gray key. He says the gray vinyl is simply for appearance.
This may not be true for Toyotas other than the Tacoma. Real valet keys will start the vehicle and open the doors, but will not unlock glove boxes, and in some cases, trunks.
Since it won't start the truck, I don't think the gray key would be very useful to a valet!
FWIW, hardware store copies, unprogrammed dealer copies, and the gray key will crank the truck, but will not enable fuel flow, so the truck won't start.
Also, here in Kansas, some of the 89 and 91 octane fuel has 10% ethenol in it. Is this OK to use? My '97 2-door ZR2 blazer gets better gas milage with the 89 octane ethenol fuel. Should I not be putting it in my '05 Tacoma? Would I get better gas milage if I used just regular unleaded? Will my MPG increase as I break the truck in a little more?
Any input would be appreciated.........
The manual also had a short paragraph saying it was okay to use a gasahol or ethanol mix. I don't have it in front of me but I know it's in there, I just read it on Monday.
That being said, the gray key (at least mine) does in fact have the chip.
When you turn the switch to start, the system queries for a chip in the key, and the code in said chip must match with what the system is expecting. If not, the starter turns, but the fuel delivery system is inactive. Not to say that a truly enterprising individual with enough time could make the fuel system activate, but that goes back to the story of if someone really wants it, and has enough time and access...
In any event, if your gray key won't start your truck, I'd go back to the dealer and ask again "why the h*ll not".
Either the wrong key, or not programmed properly.
There are 3 things I am not happy with on the new Taco (I hope Toyota is listening):
1.Location of the Rear-View Mirror: This is a safety issue. I am 6’ 1’ and the rear-view mirror blocks my view at intersections of oncoming traffic from the right. Most rear-view mirrors you have to look up at to see, mine is at eye level. When setting at a stop sign, I have to lean down and look under the rear-view mirror to see the traffic to my right. A few times I have not seen the other vehicle setting at the stop sign to my right and have taken off at the same time as the other vehicle. It also blocks my view when looking for a store or addresses on the right hand side of the road. Does anyone else have this problem? I am going to see if the dealer will raise the mirror an inch or so, that should help, but then I will have the big black spot where the mirror was. Oh well, safety first.
2.Tilt-Steering Wheel: Toyota had to go back 25 yeas for this design. My old Taco had a “GM type” of tilt-wheel that sprang up and out of the way when the lever was pulled making it easier to get in and out. I really miss this feature.
3.Rear-Step Bumper: It is a little narrow to use to get in and out of the truck bed. Only my toes and ball of my foot are able to fit on the step and I am afraid that I am going to slip and break a knee cap or something. I hope that someone will have a nice after-market bump with a wider step in the near future.
Other than that, the new Taco is bigger, roomier, quieter, faster, better handling than before. No rattles, No clicking, No leaks (hasn't rained since I got it). This is the first new vehicle I have purchased and NOT had buyers remorse. Oh what a feeling!
Ken
Just last week traded that 2005 Reg Cab 4x2 4A after 6,000 miles for a 2005 4x2 Access Cab 4A, also with the 2.7L . It's red and really fine looking, comfortable, quiet, and the one I should have bought in the first place. The Reg Cab will make someone happy, as I never hit over 3,200 rpm's, or drove hard for even one mile.
Your message was taken the way it was intended, informative. You may have saved me from an accident and defiantly saved me a trip to the dealer. I did not know of and had not noticed the second pivot joint. Even after reading your message I had to look twice to see the other pivot joint. Re-Adjusted the mirror, went for a test drive and now I can see everything. Thanks again. Aren't forums wonderful. Now there are only two things I am not happy with on my new Taco.
Toyota... oh what a feeling!
Lee
And thanks for taking the post the way it was intended.
Ken
Veronica
Either the wrong key, or not programmed properly."
Thanks!
I most definitely will do that.
I wanted to revisit this issue originally posted 5/5/05 as I am getting closer to getting my '06 Tacoma Access Cab Prerunner (without the fog lights). You mentioned the pictures and how these have been a great addition. I'll have to be honest, I am a bit suspicious of getting an electrical compent that for my new truck that cost $250 less than OEM ones. Just a few questions:
Are you still happy with the quality?
Did they fit the holes like a glove or was there a gap that had to be filled as I've heard of other aftermarket fog lights?
I'd surely go for the cheaper lights if someone else is satisfied.
Thanks for any info. you may provide.
Allen
Take a look at that picture! There is no way I'm putting those things on a brand new truck. I wouldn't have put those on my '85 Jetta. I'd rather save the money and buy the OEM lights that clip right in and are already pre-wired.
http://www.toyotapart.com/product.asp?pID=390103&cID=13
Do what you will but I'm wary of some of the crap they sell on ebay.
Since, I have not heard the (described in postings as howling or buzzing) noise.
But, who knows (?), as the noise happened in certain combination of high wind and high speed.
I am going on a long trip next ... if I don't hear it (up the coast of California... up 80 into the Sierra Nevadas), I will be pretty confident this is the fix.
Thanks
I am 6'1" and that @#$! rear view mirror is driving me crazy!!!
I will look for the 2 pivots and adjust it this evening.
Thank goodness!!!