Hi! If you wanna trader your 19" wheels I just recently bought my 06 se and am looking for a set of 19's to replace my stock 18's or going with 20" Maya wheels. Let me know, if you would like to trade. regards, Rob 571-333-1303
Question.. If you change out your wheels from 18's to 19 or 20's, will you have to make an adjustment to the speedometer?
Changing wheel size won't necessarily make any difference to the accuracy of the speedometer, it's the tire diameter that's important. You can have tires of the same overall diameter, but with different sized holes in the middle to fit different sizes of rim.
I have a 2005 V8 LR3 and an interesting (to me) new issue.
The background: About 1 month ago, I had the fuel tank replaced (pursuant to recall). Also, at that time, the temperature here turned rapidly downward (to true Winter temperature). And, last, at that time, I went on a 3-week long work trip and my wife became the only driver.
The problem: Upon my return, I have found that fuel economy has dropped about 2 mpg on all road types (computer and calculated). For example, mpg on a straight highway drive has dropped (approx same loading) from about 21.2 to 18.9. Also, the decrease in economy persists whether my wife drives or I do. The car also seems to be more torquey from a stop light and more draggy from 50-70 (more like the V6 loaner I have tried).
Any thoughts? (Possibilities that occur to me: cold hurts efficiency of combustion; wife's driving style taught adaptive transmission some inefficient tricks; my family has put on some serious Holiday weight...:-) The new fuel tank isn't bigger or heavier, is it?
Yes, cold can impact MPG. Give it a little time. No, the tank isn't bigger/heavier. And yes, the adaptive transmission "learning" may impact your milage... but not if you are stuck in 6th gear the whole time while on the highway.
Yeah I agree the tanks are identical except for the EVAP canister so no change in mass at all. Probably a combination of the cold and the addaptive tranny adjusted to your wifes driving style. Since you were gone for three weeks it just seemed like the MPG changed suddenly if you had been there the whole time you would have noticed it dropping steadily.
has anyone bought the land rover bike rack. I am thinking of buying one and from pics on LR site it looks like it swivels open or something for the rear hatch/door. is there anything better out there...
I have had the same thing happen to me, minus not driving it for 3 weeks. I am the only driver, and I went from about 16.1 to 14.9. I don't like the "tourquiness". I didn't mind being in the 16's, but the 14's isn't cool. I thought maybe I was driving different, but now that I saw your post, I know I'm not. I think I'm going to have the dealer check it out.
I just checked my gas mileage on my second tank of fuel. The computer stated that I was averaging 12.5 (85% city 15% freeway). I put pencil to paper and I computed the same average, 12.5 mpg. I currently have 520 miles so I have a little ways to go before it's "broke-in".
Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
I should indicate some additional information: at the time I got the fuel tank replaced, I was near enough to 15,000 miles to get that service done at the same time.
doctorp, 16.1 to 14.9... that's 1.2 MPG difference. Really, I would not bother your service department for something like that. :surprise: Heck, incorrect tire pressure can cause more MPG change than that.
Just wondering has anyone else had this problem I bought my 2005 LR3 about a month ago the truck has been great but I notice when ever I drive over brigdes with the steel grates instead of the regular tar or asphalt pavement the truck becomes a little hard to keep straight it's all over the place I also experience this when driving in the rain it's almost like the back wheel are pulling me side ways!!
The wood package arrived and was installed on my 2006 LR3 HSE today. I am SO pleased with the way that it looks. My salesman told me that the "Land Rover" wood dash option was recalled so they found another supplier. They offered several choices of "real" wood and I selected burled walnut. It is absolutely beautiful and looks very similar to what I have in my Mercedes E430 which has a glossy finish.
The wood covers the whole center dash area from the vents to the bottom of the radio. Also, the vents on either side of the dash are covered down to the bottom of the headlight switch and below the cup holder on the passenger side.
The wood really sets off the dark charcoal and Alpaca beige colors that are going on along the dash. I would highly recommend it as it looks very nice.
Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
Yes Tidester, if I remember correctly, the salesman told me that the factory wood was recalled because the veneer was pulling away from the dash.
The wood ordered from Land Rover had a 4 yr/50K warranty, whereas, the new supplier that my wood was ordered from, warrants the wood for as long as I own the vehicle.
A small correction from my post #3026 above about the center dash wood. The inlay covers the vent area and down both sides next to the radio and air system controls. The center area where the radio and air controls are located is the gray composite material that matches the console.
Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
Grommet, I think 1.2 wouldn't be a big deal if it was getting 35 and went down to 33.8, but this thing sucks gas to begin with. An 8% drop is significant. I wouldn't want an 8% pay cut or my kids' school averages to drop 8%.
hey mark156, would you be able to post pics of the dash wood trim...i saw the landrover trim at a dealer and quite honestly it didn't look as good as i thought it would...i am ready to close the deal on my HSE with alpaca too, just wanted to see what it would look like with the trim...thanks
hey guys, a few days ago i had posted a couple of posts in the "price paid.." and "leasing" sections with the price that i have been quoted by my dealer but i never got a response yet...i am ready to sign the deal and would really appreciate it if you guys can take a look at the numbers and let me know if it seems ok. i am in new york city area...i would very much appreciate it...thanks.
If the mpg's drop from 21 to 19, it's still in line with the EPA est. for Hwy mileage, which as we know, is usually skewed higher than real world numbers. I wouldn't embarrass myself by bringing it into the shop for that, save the trip in for real problems. There's an old saying, "you plant corn you get corn," or in this case, you buy a gas guzzler, you get a gas guzzler!
Hello Manoftaste, I wish I could post a pic of the dash but I don't have a digital camera and really don't know how to post the pics. I'm not a very "techy" person.
I plan on getting a new cell phone that will have bluetooth capability to match up with the LR3 next week.
As far as your deal goes, mine listed for $56,500 and I got a $2,375 discount. So, your deal sounds really good with $3,325 off MSRP. Some stores aren't discounting at all, especially in California from what I have being hearing. I live in California part-time and bought mine in Tennessee.
If you decide to go with the wood inlays, you will not be disappointed. I did notice the wood on the Range Rover because my salesman showed me one to look at different wood colors. The Range Rover has a darker wood and it appeared to me that it has more of a "flat" finish not a high gloss like I have. I like the high gloss better because it looks like what I have in my Mercedes E430 sport. There were about 6 or 8 choices of wood to pick from that my dealer showed me on the Internet. As I mentioned before, I picked burled walnut, which is a medium color wood, not too dark or too blond.
I'm not sure what choices you would have in NY. Did your salesperson say anything about the "factory" wood being re-called??
I hope that you get your LR3 soon! Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
I'd agree with Grommet on this..I have over 24,000 miles on my HSE and just drove back from FL to Cape Cod, I averaged 19.8 mpg.. As I get more miles on the truck it gets better.
I check the computer against manual tally and its nearly spot on now.
Tire pressures made a big difference to my mpg and driving style!
When they ship the vehicles over they tie down the wheels on the ship which apparently changes the pressures. Mine were off by 15 psi when I took delivery!
Hi all, just curious, i am going to be picking up my new HSE today or tomorrow, and the dealer mentioned that it will have around 50 miles or so on it...is this normal? the dealer is the LR Paramus, in New Jersey. Also any advise on picking up a new car, this is the first time I am purchasing a new car and of course, first time buying a land rover, and am pretty excited about it, wish me luck friends...
I noticed the following 2 complaints on another forum and was wondering if they come from just a few owners or the majority.
Transmission snaps or jerks when accelerating after an almost, but not fully, stopped condition, i.e. after slowing for a stop sign but not fully stopping.
Please respond if your LR3 does not snap or jerk. I'd like to know if they all do this.
Also, some complain of uncomfortable seats due to lack of lumbar support and head rests tipped too far forward.
Please respond if this is not an issue to be concerned about.
50 miles is fine I have had cars come off the truck with as much as 40 miles on it. Then the tech PDI's the truck puts 5-10 miles on it and a good sales guide will put a few miles on the truck himself to give it a once over.
I have a personal policy of putting 25 miles on every car that I deliver before pickup so that I can catch any possible SNAFU's before they happen.
I haven't had any of these customers but my sales manager has had people in the past want on the contract that no more then 40 miles will be on the car on the delivery date. Which is just crazy cause like I said sometimes a car comes to us with that many miles already.
Congrats on the new ride! I wouldn't worry about 50 (or a couple hundred) miles on a new car at delivery, although some people insist on 5 miles or less.
It's hard to focus with the excitement of picking up a new rig, but walk around it in daylight and try to notice any dings or scrapes. Otherwise you'll spot them when you first wash it and it'll be hard to get the dealer to take responsibility. Test drive it again. Make sure you have all the manuals and keys that are supposed to be there.
The lot techs are supposed to go through a checklist upon delivery but apparently they sometimes rush through it or skip stuff. That's why overinflated tires show up on new cars on the lot (John, I always heard that the manufacturer overinflates tires to prevent flatspotting from sitting on car lots too long).
Land Rover overinflates them to prevent flatspots on the long journey over from the UK. They are supposed to be put to the correct pressure by the tech during the PDI.
My LR3 had 13 miles on the odometer when I purchased it. It had 11 but I drove it 2 miles for the test drive. My 2000 E430 sport had about 50 miles on it when I bought it new (31,800 currently).
My Dad's 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis GS had 450 miles on it because it was a year end unit and probably was test driven some. He received a good discount so I wasn't worried about the mileage when I took it to him.
Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
how much should i pay for the LR mud guards and tow hitch. my dealer has quoted me $395 for the tow hitch and $300 something for the mud guards. and i noticed that in the LR3 KIT brochure, tow hitch retail is $375 and mud guards are $69 front and rear each.
The labor time for each of those is about an hour and most dealerships charge about 100 bucks an hour. Taking that into account those prices sound about right.
thanks british rover. yes this is including the labor. but i really thought that the tow hitch was like a snap-on and it didn't need any labor...also in your opinion should i be able to put the mud flaps my self?
i had posted earlier asking about the $1500 off promotional offer that i received in mail and another $1500 off offer while surfing their site (both from LR), my question was if i could use either of those offers toward purchase of my car in addition to what i negotiated with the dealer. basically i will be taking the delivery and giving my hard earned money to those guys tomorrow and wanted to run it by you anyways...
I don't see any reason why you cannot use them. The mailer is cash as far as the dealership is concerned. Call them and fax them a copy though just as a common courtsey so that they can make sure it is still valid.
I asked a friend of mine tonight about taking pictures with the phone I plan to get. My friend said that I could take a picture of my dash and send it to myself and then post it to Edmunds. I hope that I can do this as I want everyone to see how nice the dash looks with wood accents.
I'll try my best to get this done... Mark :surprise:
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
There shouldn't be any "labor" for the hitch receiver, unless you paying for and installing interior storage bracket for it... which is pointless. (Just store it in your garage.)
Yes, the Land Rover certificate is $1500 off any price, negotiated or not... though you can only use one of them. Anyway... You are getting an excellent deal, especially compared to our prices here in Northern California. :surprise:
thanks british rover and grommet. should i still fax it to them because i was just gonna bring the mailer with me when i visit them to pay for the truck tomorrow. i haven't told the dealer about it yet. I hope that they dont get mad or something when i tell them about it. do they get that $1500 back from landrover? just curious...
thats exactly what i thought that it was just a snap on thing...the dealer was talking about an hour's worth of installing time, and was giving me the total cost of the hitch for around $500 (didn't sound right thats why i asked). may be he was talking about installing the interior storage bracket. what is it anyway and where exactly does it install? if i really want it can i have it installed later or something? and how much should i pay for the hitch itself only? also, how about self-installing mudgurards as well?
$325-$359 is generally the price dealers sell the hitch receiver for. Of course, they can charge less or more. It's up to the dealer & parts department. I'd be curious what they consider "installation" for something that you attach when needed. (Even the floor mats have more justification for install... since there are "hold downs" that can be screwed into the carpet. Yes, screwed.)
The hitch receiver storage bracket (which is ~$118 itself, uninstalled) gets installed behind a panel in the very rear left. (The opposite side where the jack is.) It's pointless, unless you get a kick out of carrying a hitch receiver with you. I have it on my '05 (it came with it), but I leave the receiver at home when not in use.
The front and rear mud guards are easy to install, if you choose to install them yourself.
Anyway, there is one advantage buying everything at one time: Anything you buy/install at the time of purchase will be covered by the vehicle's full 4 year warranty, unlike items you buy later.
My LR3 seems to have developed this jerking condition a few months ago and it has not subsided. It is exactly as you describe - an almost, but not full stop. I can make the vehicle do it on command.
As far as seats go, it is truly a matter of personal taste. I would say I have carted about 20 different people at least 300 miles each in the LR3 and they are split about 60/40 (to the favorable side) on the comfort factor. My wife (5' 1") complains about the headrests. I also find that those on the heavy side complain about the firmness of the seat. I regularly take long (1000+ miles) trips and have invested in a $10 lumbar support pillow. I would like to see a pneumatic lumbar support feature in the future.
If you are talking about the hard shift that can happen... yes, that seems to be normal with the transmission/vehicle. The behavior can change depending on how it has "adapted" to your driving. It seems most people experience it when they try to do "rolling stops" and step on it. I can probably cause it to happen "on demand" if I want, but I don't think I've done it accidentally in over 6 months.
If you can't control your driving behavior, you can use manual shift mode to limit automatic shifting. Using the transmission in Sport mode may change the behavior, too
Sad day. I only have 800 miles on my new LR3 and already have called Roadside assistance twice over the Christmas holiday. I've had 2 suspension falure warnings, one indicating I should not drive over 30 mi/hr and 1 engine system fault warning, and 1 dead battery. I had it towed to the dealer today and it will take 1+ week to figure out what is wrong. Luckily the dealer gave me an LR3 loaner but I'm not getting a good felling about the reliability of this vehicle. Anyone else have strane 'new car' problems that have been worked our or did I get a lemon? :lemon:
Has anyone purchased/installed the Lockable Crossbars? I plan to use my new LR3 (once fixed) for heavy ski use and need solid ski racks. I'm worried about the wind noise as I have long on-road drives between skiing. Looking for any ski rack recommendations or comments. If not I'll test out and let everyone know. Look forward to joining the LR3 community.
I picked up my new LR3 with 9 miles. I was worried about excessive miles added when transferring from one dealer to another so they used a flat bed truck... But 50 miles shouldn't be to much of a concern as long as the dealer can tell you how they were added. Test drives, transit/delivery, exec loaner? Worth asking, but won't make much difference except answering where they came from.
I heard the same story from the dealer when I bought my LR3 HSE. He told me the "burr walnut fascia kit" had to many quality problems from their current supplier. He indicated the wood had a tendancy to come off. Was't sure if he meant the whole fascia kit would peel off or if the wood burl was chipping to easy. Whatever the reason, sounds like you found something that worked! I really like the look and am thinking of adding this at a later date. If so I'll post some pictuers.
I'd agree with Grommet on this..I have over 24,000 miles on my HSE and just drove back from FL to Cape Cod, I averaged 19.8 mpg..As I get more miles on the truck it gets better.
Wow that is good. Is it the V8? My HSE has 28,000 km on it and I am driving from Toronto to Ft Worth (again): I cannot get better than 18, hoeever carefully I drive. I accelerate slowly, drive at the speed limit or just slightly above, and use cruise control; and I drive for hours and hours and hours without stopping. How fast do you drive?
Comments
I would agree the Denso can suffice in many areas. My comments related to what alternatives are out there.
Personally I switched to the Alpine hub and get traffic updates, run my Ipod etc.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/
Its all relative to the user OEM versus Aftermarket. Its a buyers choice!
Motoring along and love'n my new LR3! Mark
regards,
Rob
571-333-1303
Question.. :confuse: If you change out your wheels from 18's to 19 or 20's, will you have to make an adjustment to the speedometer?
Observation: It would be nice to have motorized "pull in" side mirrors.
Mark
Changing wheel size won't necessarily make any difference to the accuracy of the speedometer, it's the tire diameter that's important. You can have tires of the same overall diameter, but with different sized holes in the middle to fit different sizes of rim.
The background: About 1 month ago, I had the fuel tank replaced (pursuant to recall). Also, at that time, the temperature here turned rapidly downward (to true Winter temperature). And, last, at that time, I went on a 3-week long work trip and my wife became the only driver.
The problem: Upon my return, I have found that fuel economy has dropped about 2 mpg on all road types (computer and calculated). For example, mpg on a straight highway drive has dropped (approx same loading) from about 21.2 to 18.9. Also, the decrease in economy persists whether my wife drives or I do. The car also seems to be more torquey from a stop light and more draggy from 50-70 (more like the V6 loaner I have tried).
Any thoughts? (Possibilities that occur to me: cold hurts efficiency of combustion; wife's driving style taught adaptive transmission some inefficient tricks; my family has put on some serious Holiday weight...:-) The new fuel tank isn't bigger or heavier, is it?
any thoughts?
thanks.
I just checked my gas mileage on my second tank of fuel. The computer stated that I was averaging 12.5 (85% city 15% freeway). I put pencil to paper and I computed the same average, 12.5 mpg. I currently have 520 miles so I have a little ways to go before it's "broke-in".
Mark
I should indicate some additional information: at the time I got the fuel tank replaced, I was near enough to 15,000 miles to get that service done at the same time.
The wood package arrived and was installed on my 2006 LR3 HSE today. I am SO pleased with the way that it looks. My salesman told me that the "Land Rover" wood dash option was recalled so they found another supplier. They offered several choices of "real" wood and I selected burled walnut. It is absolutely beautiful and looks very similar to what I have in my Mercedes E430 which has a glossy finish.
The wood covers the whole center dash area from the vents to the bottom of the radio. Also, the vents on either side of the dash are covered down to the bottom of the headlight switch and below the cup holder on the passenger side.
The wood really sets off the dark charcoal and Alpaca beige colors that are going on along the dash. I would highly recommend it as it looks very nice.
Mark
I'm curious - did he give reason for the recall?
tidester, host
The wood ordered from Land Rover had a 4 yr/50K warranty, whereas, the new supplier that my wood was ordered from, warrants the wood for as long as I own the vehicle.
A small correction from my post #3026 above about the center dash wood. The inlay covers the vent area and down both sides next to the radio and air system controls. The center area where the radio and air controls are located is the gray composite material that matches the console.
Mark
tidester, host
I plan on getting a new cell phone that will have bluetooth capability to match up with the LR3 next week.
As far as your deal goes, mine listed for $56,500 and I got a $2,375 discount. So, your deal sounds really good with $3,325 off MSRP. Some stores aren't discounting at all, especially in California from what I have being hearing. I live in California part-time and bought mine in Tennessee.
If you decide to go with the wood inlays, you will not be disappointed. I did notice the wood on the Range Rover because my salesman showed me one to look at different wood colors. The Range Rover has a darker wood and it appeared to me that it has more of a "flat" finish not a high gloss like I have. I like the high gloss better because it looks like what I have in my Mercedes E430 sport. There were about 6 or 8 choices of wood to pick from that my dealer showed me on the Internet. As I mentioned before, I picked burled walnut, which is a medium color wood, not too dark or too blond.
I'm not sure what choices you would have in NY. Did your salesperson say anything about the "factory" wood being re-called??
I hope that you get your LR3 soon! Mark
Land Rover LR3: Lease Questions
Land Rover LR3: Prices Paid & Buying Experiences
Steve, Host
As I get more miles on the truck it gets better.
I check the computer against manual tally and its nearly spot on now.
Tire pressures made a big difference to my mpg and driving style!
When they ship the vehicles over they tie down the wheels on the ship which apparently changes the pressures. Mine were off by 15 psi when I took delivery!
Also use Synthetic oil & change it regulary!
thanks and thanks mark156 for the reply...
Transmission snaps or jerks when accelerating after an almost, but not fully, stopped condition, i.e. after slowing for a stop sign but not fully stopping.
Please respond if your LR3 does not snap or jerk. I'd like to know if they all do this.
Also, some complain of uncomfortable seats due to lack of lumbar support and head rests tipped too far forward.
Please respond if this is not an issue to be concerned about.
Thanks
I have a personal policy of putting 25 miles on every car that I deliver before pickup so that I can catch any possible SNAFU's before they happen.
I haven't had any of these customers but my sales manager has had people in the past want on the contract that no more then 40 miles will be on the car on the delivery date. Which is just crazy cause like I said sometimes a car comes to us with that many miles already.
It's hard to focus with the excitement of picking up a new rig, but walk around it in daylight and try to notice any dings or scrapes. Otherwise you'll spot them when you first wash it and it'll be hard to get the dealer to take responsibility. Test drive it again. Make sure you have all the manuals and keys that are supposed to be there.
The lot techs are supposed to go through a checklist upon delivery but apparently they sometimes rush through it or skip stuff. That's why overinflated tires show up on new cars on the lot (John, I always heard that the manufacturer overinflates tires to prevent flatspotting from sitting on car lots too long).
Here's a quickie checklist.
Steve, Host
My Dad's 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis GS had 450 miles on it because it was a year end unit and probably was test driven some. He received a good discount so I wasn't worried about the mileage when I took it to him.
Mark
how much should i pay for the LR mud guards and tow hitch. my dealer has quoted me $395 for the tow hitch and $300 something for the mud guards. and i noticed that in the LR3 KIT brochure, tow hitch retail is $375 and mud guards are $69 front and rear each.
The labor time for each of those is about an hour and most dealerships charge about 100 bucks an hour. Taking that into account those prices sound about right.
any thoughts...
I'll try my best to get this done... Mark :surprise:
The hitch receiver storage bracket (which is ~$118 itself, uninstalled) gets installed behind a panel in the very rear left. (The opposite side where the jack is.) It's pointless, unless you get a kick out of carrying a hitch receiver with you.
The front and rear mud guards are easy to install, if you choose to install them yourself.
Anyway, there is one advantage buying everything at one time: Anything you buy/install at the time of purchase will be covered by the vehicle's full 4 year warranty, unlike items you buy later.
As far as seats go, it is truly a matter of personal taste. I would say I have carted about 20 different people at least 300 miles each in the LR3 and they are split about 60/40 (to the favorable side) on the comfort factor. My wife (5' 1") complains about the headrests. I also find that those on the heavy side complain about the firmness of the seat. I regularly take long (1000+ miles) trips and have invested in a $10 lumbar support pillow. I would like to see a pneumatic lumbar support feature in the future.
If you can't control your driving behavior, you can use manual shift mode to limit automatic shifting. Using the transmission in Sport mode may change the behavior, too
Wow that is good. Is it the V8? My HSE has 28,000 km on it and I am driving from Toronto to Ft Worth (again): I cannot get better than 18, hoeever carefully I drive. I accelerate slowly, drive at the speed limit or just slightly above, and use cruise control; and I drive for hours and hours and hours without stopping. How fast do you drive?